@ thehinge1
Please submit your impression about bios 1201 compared to 1103 if you are going to flash it.
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@ thehinge1
Please submit your impression about bios 1201 compared to 1103 if you are going to flash it.
you can find my bios settings hereQuote:
Originally Posted by wongnog
Q6600@3,6 on air
I have problems with temperature reporting still with 1201. Probe reports a mb temp of 254 and cpu of 111 centigrate! Everest reports the mb temp at either 1 or 25 and CPU at 23.
This along with the fan sensor problems I am having is making be seriously consider switching to another brand of motherboard.
Will do, been preoccupied with other things today, but I should have a while to play with it tomorrow... can get just short of good mem scores at 550fsb 1:1 on bios 1103 but got kinda frustrated after hitting DDR1224 on the now-gone P5K with great bandwidth (at only 461fsb though). I may concentrate on 533fsb 1:1 as I'm about to go 4GB 2x2GB Reapers on the P5Q-E and bios 1201 is ready to go :up:
Here is a functional 550fsb setting in the meantime:
ASUS P5Q-E Template :
*Note*: I lost my original 550fsb setting that definitely had some tighter timings and lower voltages in places, but this setup is bomber thus far. I will update again when I find some sweeter spots :)
Cpu Frequency with this setup is 3.85GHz, initial SuperPI 1M time is 13.235 sec - I think very low 13's or even lower may be possible.
CPU is M0 stepping E7200 retail boxed, air cooled w/TRUE120 & 1500rpm Scythe/Sony FDB SFF21F 120mm
P5Q-E rev. 1.01G on bios 1103
RAM used: OCZ Reaper PC2-9200/DDR1150
No fans over 900rpm in case to keep things nice and quiet
JumperFree Configuration Settings
AI Overclock tuner: MANUAL
CPU Ratio Setting: 7.0
FSB Frequency: 550
PCI-E Frequency: 100
FSB Strap to North Bridge: AUTO
DRAM Frequency: 1000 (BIOS says DDR2-1102)
DRAM CLK Skew on Channel A1: AUTO
DRAM CLK Skew on Channel A2: AUTO
DRAM CLK Skew on Channel B1: AUTO
DRAM CLK Skew on Channel B2: AUTO
DRAM Timing Control: MANUAL
1st Information : 5-5-5-18-11-36-6-11
CAS# Latency: 5
DRAM RAS# to CAS# Delay: 5
DRAM RAS# Precharge: 5
DRAM RAS# Activate to Precharge: 18
RAS# to RAS# Delay : 11
Row Refresh Cycle Time: AUTO (for this RAM is 36)
Write Recovery Time: 6
Read to Precharge Time: 11
2nd Information : 11-5-5-4-5-5-6
READ to WRITE Delay (S/D): 11
Write to Read Delay (S): 5
WRITE to READ Delay (D): AUTO
READ to READ Delay (S): AUTO
READ to READ Delay (D): AUTO
WRITE to WRITE Delay (S): 5
WRITE to WRITE Delay (D): AUTO
3rd Information : 14-13-1-5-5
WRITE to PRE Delay: AUTO
READ to PRE Delay: AUTO
PRE to PRE Delay: AUTO
ALL PRE to ACT Delay: AUTO
ALL PRE to REF Delay: AUTO
DRAM Static Read Control: Disabled
DRAM Read Training: Disabled
MEM. OC Charger: AUTO
AI Clock Twister: AUTO
AI Transaction Booster: AUTO (I think it is PL-13 at this clock freq)
CPU Voltage: 1.33750
CPU GTL Voltage Reference (0/2): AUTO
CPU GTL Voltage Reference (1/3): AUTO
CPU PLL Voltage: 1.66
FSB Termination Voltage: 1.28
DRAM Voltage: 2.04
NB Voltage: 1.34
NB GTL Reference: AUTO
SBridge Voltage: AUTO
PCIE SATA Voltage: AUTO
Load Line Calibration: Enabled
CPU Spread Spectrum: Disabled
PCIE Spread Spectrum: Disabled
CPU Clock Skew : Delay 400ps
NB Clock Skew : Delay 200ps
CPU Margin Enhancement: Optimized
Advance CPU Settings
CPU Ratio Setting: 7.0
C1E Suppport: Disabled
Max CPUID Value Limit: Disabled
CPU TM Function: Disabled
Execute Disable Bit: Disabled
Anyone out there please feel free to warn me if you think I'm at 'danger level' on any of these voltages.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloud76
I think your 1.66 CPU PLL voltage is high for a daily use, expecially because you are running a 45nm CPU.Quote:
Originally Posted by thehinge1
Real voltage, considering mobo overvoltage, must be 1.70-1.72 or even a bit higher.
Are you sure you need so much? I think that around 1.54 (bios setting) can be enough, I would no go much more high with a 45nm CPU for daily.
to improve bandwidth first try to enable "Static read control", it improve performance but decrease stability, test it and if all is good try to lower performance level. I don't know if you read P5Q DL discussion, however, the 1:1 FSB/RAM is the worse divider for PL (13... max 10...), for better PL (max 8... or 7 if you are fortunate) you must use other divider.Quote:
can get just short of good mem scores at 550fsb 1:1 on bios 1103 but got kinda frustrated after hitting DDR1224 on the now-gone P5K with great bandwidth (at only 461fsb though)
New bios official 1201 released 11-Aug-2008 on Asus website. Pretty much same changelog as previous vers, "Enhance the memory compatibility" according to Asus.
Thank you! I think I can get it to 1.58 stable by increasing CPU GTL's about .02 each, 1.54 & 1.56 were no-go. I even killed my BIOS and had to recover then flash to v1201 when I started playing with NB GTL (it is back on auto for now).Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloud76
How high is a safe CPU GTL with 45nm and Vcore set at 1.22750 in BIOS?
Yes, I am aware of the 1;1 issues but I want to find the 'fairly reasonable' topend of the chipset and am still very early in testing this board.
I may just back down a bit on some voltages and run a lower fsb with divider to boost the RAM... but I am actually getting close to my old P5K's stats when it was at 461/1224 and maxed out.
hello people, I have the same specs that thehinge1 (E7200 + P5Q-E + Reaper 1150).
I followed step by step your BIOS configuration but I canīt pass 525 to FSB.
Whatīs something wrong? Any idea? Please, any suggestion??:(:confused:
Thanxs in advance.
Are you sure your RAM timings are correct for Reaper 1150? Your screenshot shows 5-5-5-15 and OCZ designed them to be set at 5-5-5-18, I also have Reaper 1066 and they are rated 5-5-5-15. It does make a difference with my kit.
Are the rest of your RAM settings the same as mine? I have gone manual with every single setting in the RAM area at this point and can post them if you want.
Additional unsolicited info: I have gotten my rig to 533fsb/DDR1066 with much some pretty decent (lower) voltage settings, and can also do 450fsb/DDR1200 or 500fsb/DDR1200 on the 1150's after some more experimentation. Ultimately I'm looking for the fastest configuration for my cpu regardless of indicated fsb or RAM speed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mojado
At the moment I'm writing Asus removed 1201 and also 1103. :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by wongnog
I am a little 'concerned, I saw dying too many bios in the forum :shakes:Quote:
Originally Posted by thehinge1
About GTL, you can play with them to stabilize your OC, I don't know if there is a safe area, I made a little research, you can find some information about GTL at the following link:
http://www.thetechrepository.com/showthread.php?t=87
http://www.edgeofstability.com/artic.../gtl/gtl1.html
http://edgeofstability.com/articles/...fault_gtl.html
http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...s-formula.html
If you want to read them... hope it could help.
;)
But the OCZ EPP profile say 5-5-5-15 @2,1v.:confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by thehinge1
http://i34.tinypic.com/2z6h5bk.jpg
@Cloud76: I went back 2 BIOS to 1003, 1201 worked (before it blew up, lol) but the temps read 10c high... ASUS is REALLY starting to get me cheesed off between the defective P5K Pro and now continued bios issues on P5Q-E. I have already read those GTL articles, but thanks nonetheless and the small increase I tried was probably fine - I was just looking for yet more info!
@mojado: EPP is really optimized for Nfarce chipsets from what I have read, they co-developed the standard. OCZ even has the 5-5-5-18 settings on their product page for our RAM as preferred for Intel chipsets and it is plenty speedy. I knew you are on Intel chipset so I did not bother with the EPP stuff.
Question: Do your reaper stix have a white sticker without a max voltage (old style) or a 'chrome/holographic' sticker that says '2.1v'?
OCZ changed the chips back in January(maybe December) from the old 2.35v max voltage rating to the new 2.1v one as the new chips need much less voltage. Mine are new style and running at DDR1216MHz@2.03v as I type this. If you are new style I'll send my whole settings to you or post them here, I'm running bios1003 at 507fsb/DDR1216 quite stably on the 5:6 divider now with very reasonable voltages.
OK, straight up replies if you will -- I can get the P5Q Deluxe at a great price. Is it worth it over the PQ5-E which I can get cheaper?
If I was going to use a quad I would have gone Deluxe for its 16-phase PWM, I chose P5Q-E's 8-phase for my dualie. The 'E' even seems to clock ever-so-slightly higher on dual-cores. I was looking at a $40 US price difference, and am happy. Straight up enough?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee
Yep! Thanks very much. I'm going for an E8600 in a couple of days so I'll keep your advice in mind. I saw a couple of people mention that they think the P5Q-E is the best choice for duals. Thanks again bro.
Odd, ASUS has removed bios 1103 and 1201 from their website, latest one up is 1003. All are still available on their ftp site.
Does anyone else find they get very slow boot times when they plug something in this board on IDE? I have on DVD+RW drive, and my Vista x64 start times are soooo slow when I enable IDE on the board. The drive seems to make audible clicking noises too when Vista is starting up (during that loading screen with the green progress bar). As soon as I disable IDE, Vista starts up in seconds. Time for me to get a new drive I guess?
I just flashed 1201... XD.
:eek: Noooooooooooooooooooo!
ASUS pulled it and 1103 off of their site... It worked great for me till it corrupted violently yesterday North of 550fsb when I got the NB GTL too low. Kaboom!
Anyhow - 1003 is working really well for me thus far and is quite stable fwiw.
I am researching CPU GTLs right now and they ARE your friend - looking like a great way to get more FSB without actually putting more voltage through your core! More testing to see if the theory holds water, but I definitely have shaved some Vcore off thus far without any obvious ill effects. I imagine the same could be done on the NB when I get brave enough to return there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Loser777
GTL's are more important then you would think. For the bios dissapearing and popping up again, Asus got server issues ( what's new lol ) and sometimes the mirroring and co goes wrong and users see the old list... just go via the ftp and it should be fine... there's nothing wrong with the bios, as some suspect it has been pulled or such... ofcourse for some users it's fab while for others it might give issues... too much hardware setups floating around...Quote:
Originally Posted by thehinge1
I kindda like 1201 on the E and Dlx...
1201 is fine on my p5q-e,my temps seem to report ok and i have zero issues.
i have a p5q-e bios 1103 + E7200 + 4GB DDR2 1000MHz+
i cant boot windows over 440FSB, it stops always @ windows loading bar
i've tried raising pll, nb, vsb, and other values without success, as well as straps
tried other bioses as well
the previous owner of this cpu guarantees it makes at least 550FSB(on P35), and this board made 500FSB @ minimum voltages with my previous E6600
any clues?
my current config is cpu @ 400*9.5 1.3v, mems 500MHz 1.8v, all board voltages @ "minimum"(first value above minimum)
thanks
Turn up the 'suck'! (bios 1201)
My temps are fine now, 'cept OCCT has its knickers in a twist because AIProbe, CoreTemp, and RealTemp are all a-ok. Weird because all were 10c high except CoreTemp in my earlier bios exploits.
I was finally getting some good speed with lower voltage, decided to flash back up to 1201 since it worked well initially. No stability, possible issues between 'desired' and actual voltages.
So now I am back @bios1103 and she seems to run fine again. What a total what of time trying to test my friend's Platinum 1066 while my board was borked :mad:
My P5W-DH may not run high fsb over low 400's but at least it is dead-nuts reliable.
Think this is more end user related then board related...:rolleyes: your best friend is a digital multimeter... some voltages have been adjusted apparently and need to be redialed to get stable again...Quote:
Originally Posted by thehinge1
1201 is rockstable on 2 E's and on the Dlx as well... all CPU's at 4000Mhz : 2 wolfies at (8 x 500) and one Qx9650 (at 10 x 400) on the dlx mobo. All rigs folding 24/7 at 100% and the quadcore is used as game platform too...
Really no hickups here
FWIW, I seem to be stable at 9x400 on my Q6600 (G0) with bios 1201. Wasn't even able to boot into Vista before with other bioses. Will post some screens when I get a chance to fully stress test it
Part of my frustration is exactly that - I just had a shoulder reconstructed so I cannot get the darned thing apart to properly bench it. Although here's the weird thing: ever since I put 1201 on it, if I do crash I can't just flip the power switch on the PSU & 'F1' to get back into BIOS upon powering back up - now it makes me clear the jumper and nothing else has changed in my setup. I've never had this type of issue in dozens of builds so I think I had/have some type of BIOS anomaly??? I THOROUGHLY cleared it, then total erased/reflashed to 'known good' settings in bios 1103 at 507fsb/DDR1216 and all seems well again.
I wish I could just yank the board out, plop it down on the bench & then use both digital and analog MM's on it. The odd 'continuous reboot' cycle was exhibited in bios 1003, 1103 and 1201, and started with 1201.
It just doesn't seem to be the same after the big kaboom :(
Got any ideas that may help me while temporarily one-armed?
Tx
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leeghoofd
I dont know why so many people seem to be having problems with this new bios from ASUS 1201 I am having zero issues with this bois, not having to add extra voltages, same stability, same temps ect., ASUS would not release an unstable bios, All I can think of for your issues is you are lashing your bioses with unstable and not fully tested systems.
The key to this is never ever flash your bios, no matter which method you use with an overclocked system, I always put the bios on a USB stick, then shut down the PC, clear the bios using the jumper on the board, then boot back into the bios, set the memory voltage to mid range of the rated, ie if its rated 2.2v-2.4v then I set 2.3v, save and exit, and then on restart hit Alt+F2 to start EZFlash, after flashing is finished, I follow exactly the same procedure again, clear the bios using the jumper on the board, and then enter again and set it all up, never had any problems with any of the bioses.
I'm finally starting to like my board now that it no longer bluescreens on me time after time.
I was running 4.3GHz with just 1.2V which becomes 1.208V under load due to LLC and it did everything i threw at it, Orthos small fft's, blend, OCCT, memtest (both windows and dos version) 3dmark 06, Aquamark03, SuperPi 32M, you name it.
Then just upon booting into windows or just browsing the internet it bloody bluescreens! :confused:
I even got a bluescreen during windows install.
I've set every voltage to auto and raised Vcore only one step and all seems fine now.
Now i'm gonna set all voltages manually again, one by one, wish me luck. ;)
Okay, got rid of LCC, had to set Vcore a lot higher to actually get the same 1.208V under load.
LCC isn't just avoiding Vdroop, it also seem to help a great deal for Vdrop too it seems.
Now i'm trying to boot at 600FSB without luck, is there anyone out there that can boot 600FSB with a Wolfdale and bios 1201?
So Zeus, LLC disabled is the way to go?
For me it sure is.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee
It just kept bluescreening on me with little to no load on it while it did some heavy load flawless.
LLC seems to reverse the Vdroop, meaning the Vcore simply raises under load instead of going down.
Now i have to push a bit more Vcore but no more bluescreens, which is a relief i can tell you.
It's real frustrating having a fully stable rig that bluescreens every 15-30 minutes while just browsing the internet.
Now i have to find a way to make 600FSB possible. :shrug:
Right, thanks man.
I just got my E8600 and P5Q-E today. I'm currently having a hard time keeping it stable at 3.93GHz, which should be damn easy for this board and CPU, but there are so many BIOS options I have no idea what half of them do. It's nice having the options available but also it can be frustrating. This is my first Asus board, first Intel chip, and first attempt at OCing it. Couple of things to note, though: I'm using the stock cooler because I'm broke. Maybe heat is the problem, but I have no clue as to what the actual temps are because every app I've tried (Everest, Real Temp, Asus Probe, and Core Temp 0.99.1) all report different numbers. I'm intending to purchase a Xigmatek s1283 soon. Also my RAM won't work in the yellow slots, only black. If I use both yellow's it won't post properly.
BIOS is 1201. Week # for CPU is 20 (Q820A670). I set Vcore to 1.25V. RAM normally does DDR1000 @ approx. 1.8V, so I can't see this being a problem right now.
If anyone has any advice I'd appreciate it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee
Try these Dee, but I would limit yaself to 9 multi, the stock cooler will be able to cope with that... for the temps plz use Realtemp or coretemp ( with a -10 Offset value)
PHP Code:ASUS P5Q DLX Template :
JumperFree Configuration Settings
AI Overclock tuner: MANUAL
CPU Ratio Setting: 9 -try 10 with a better cooler
FSB Strap to North Bridge: AUTO
FSB Frequency: 400
PCI-E Frequency: 101
DRAM Frequency: 1000
DRAM CLK Skew on Channel A1: AUTO
DRAM CLK Skew on Channel A2: AUTO
DRAM CLK Skew on Channel B1: AUTO
DRAM CLK Skew on Channel B2: AUTO
DRAM Timing Control: MANUAL
1st Information :
CAS# Latency: manual
DRAM RAS# to CAS# Delay: 5
DRAM RAS# Precharge: 5
DRAM RAS# Activate to Precharge: 5
RAS# to RAS# Delay : 18
Row Refresh Cycle Time: AUTO
Write Recovery Time: 55
Read to Precharge Time: AUTO
DRAM Static Read Control: Disabled
DRAM Read Training: AUTO
MEM. OC Charger: AUTO
AI Clock Twister: AUTO
AI Transaction Booster: AUTO
CPU Voltage: 1.2 - 1.35(with 10 multi)
CPU GTL Voltage Reference (0/2): AUTO
CPU GTL Voltage Reference (1/3): AUTO
CPU PLL Voltage: 1.56
FSB Termination Voltage: 1.26
DRAM Voltage: 1.92
NB Voltage: 1.26
NB GTL Reference: AUTO
SBridge Voltage: AUTO
PCIE SATA Voltage: AUTO
Load Line Calibration: Disabled
CPU Spread Spectrum: Disabled
PCIE Spread Spectrum: Disabled
CPU Clock Skew : AUTO
NB Clock Skew : AUTO
Advance CPU Settings
CPU Ratio Setting: Manual
CPU VID: Default
C1E Suppport: Disabled
Max CPUID Value Limit: Disabled
IntelŪ Virtualization Tech: Disabled
Vanderpool Technology: Disabled
CPU TM Function: Disabled
Execute Disable Bit: Disabled
Appreciated. I'll try your suggested setting. :up:
OK, tried those settings and they worked fine, although I used 400 x 9 which is only 3.6GHz. After that, I pushed further to 400 x 10 but it took 1.325V to get stable in OCCT. CPU-Z reads 1.288V, and OCCT reads 1.26V. I have no clue which one is more accurate. OCCT is doing some weird stuff anyway, it says my 12V PSU line is 1.5V, one of the cores remains stuck at 58 degrees, and CPU voltage for core 1 is dropping down to 1.19V after a few minutes. I hope it's not too long until we see some apps to monitor temps and voltages a little more accurately. I am also hoping that I can push further once the Xigmatex s1283 is installed.
Overall I think my E8600 and P5Q-E is slightly disappointing, but on the other hand I can't expect much whilever I'm using the stock cooler. It's still the fastest thing I've owned that doesn't have wheels or legs! Coming from an AMD X2 4800+ @3GHz, this is a damn nice upgrade. It slaughters the 4800+. Was it worth the money? I'm not sure. I think I could have done the same thing with any E8*00, but let's see what happens with better cooling.
I'm still on the lookout for a detailed guide to OCing the P5Q-E that describes exactly what all the BIOS options actually do. I am hoping there's some settings which I can tweak to make it more stable using slightly less Vcore. However, my VID is pretty high, at 1.2500, so there's a chance I could have gotten a mediocre chip. That wouldn't be good. The last 3 processors I've bought have been pretty much average or below average. Why is it that everyone else gets the good ones? All I see nowadays is "damn, I just hit 14Ghz on 0.5V!"... etc.
Almost forgot, there's a new version of Core Temp available: http://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/
with lower temps you should be able to run lower vcore.
the hotter your chip gets the more voltage you need to keep it stable... the hotter it gets...
and so on and so forth.
Yeah, that's what I was hoping, and indeed that's how it's always worked with my AMD CPU's. As this is my first Intel processor I'm not too sure of everything yet.
Thanks, I appreciate the reply.
Stick with 3.6Ghz Dee till you get a better cooling mate
OK sir, will do! Thanks for the advice.
Great avatar, btw!
I have a E6750 that has an FSB wall at around 460+ (it takes a LOT of volts to get it stable beyond that and it tops out at 475). Did you buy your CPU from ebay or likes? It's probably more than likely that the person who had the CPU before you noticed that it had a low FSB wall and sold it off.Quote:
Originally Posted by roubagalinhas
Try lowering your multi to 6x (to rule out the cpu) and relax your mem timings (even try a PL of 10+) to isolate the board itself. What was your NB voltage range?
I had my 6750 to 4ghz(500fsb) at 1.56vcore.Are you sure the wall is on your 6750?
my max. results under air cooling Q6600@3,996ghz
Q6600@3,996ghz
I ended up staying with bios 1103 for now after a thorough reflash off a USB stick. I will now take back anything derogatory I may have said about this board earlier:
E7200@4.0GHz/DDR1200
I just flashed to 1201 and I can say that it's pure crap. All of my settings that I used on the original bios (I think 0602...can't remember) for 450x9 and it won't boot, or it BSOD's at loading windows. My RAID1 is now in repair because of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leeghoofd
Can I flash back using the EZ Bios utility?
EDIT: Alright, I flashed back to 0703, now I am at 1.45vcore (LLC disable vdrop to 1.416v, vdroop to 1.408) PLL at 1.6v (just testing it high to eliminate it) This is the lowest postable vcore that I've had since getting the board. Running Prime right now, and so far so good. Loading at 52C on both cores.
Well, this forum seems to have the most information on the P5Q-E that I've found, so I decided to register and ask a question. My hardware is in sig that is arriving Tuesday.
Anyway, I want to reach a modest 3.4Ghz on my Q9550 and P5Q-E. I know that is 8.5 x 400FSB. The question I have, is there a profile I need to follow for the right settings to overclock (disabling speedstep needed? etc) or can I use auto everything?
No need to disable Speedstep, I use it myself. You may be able to keep quite a few things on auto, but I think some people around here will tell you different. Regardless, here's some info I found on the net. It may be of some help. This is for the P5Q Pro, but many BIOS options are the same for all the PQ5 range.
If you're unsure, leave it alone! This is especially important for voltages.Quote:
P5Q Pro BIOS options explanation.
Some of the options in this guide may differ slightly depending on the CPU you are using and BIOS revision. This guide is based on the 1004 beta BIOS for the P5Q Pro and covers the "Ai Tweaker" section of the BIOS.
Ai Overclock Tuner - Options are Auto or Manual. Set to Manual to be able to start OCing.
CPU Ratio - Specifies the minimum and maximum CPU multiplier available to your CPU. Adjusting this value changes your CPU clockspeed accordingly.
FSB Frequency - The default value of this will vary depending on your CPU. Can be raised in 1MHz increments or a value can be keyed in directly.
PCI-E Frequency - This specifies the Peripheral Component Interconnect - Express frequency, default is 100MHz, maximum is 180MHz and can be raised in 1MHz increments.
FSB Strap to Northbridge - Specifies the NB strap to be used. Default value will vary between 200-400MHz. Changing this value also changes the dividers available for memory.
DRAM Frequency - Specifies the operating frequency of your memory. Default value will vary depending on your memory and CPU. Frequency will vary accordingly based on FSB and NB strap.
DRAM Timing Control - Allows you to manually specify timings for your memory. Setting these values too loose or too tight can cause your system to not POST, thus requiring a CMOS reset.
DRAM Static Read Control - Disabling this will in most cases enhance DRAM overclocking, best set to Disabled.
DRAM Read Training - Enables/Disables memory data optimisations. Disabling this might help increase memory OCs.
MEM. OC Charger - This is some kind of Asus thing I believe which they claim can help boost memory performance. Options are Auto, Enabled or Disabled. Probably best left Enabled, pick your poison for yourself based on your experiences with it enabled and disabled.
Ai Clock Twister - Specifies the DRAM data driving strength. Setting this to moderate is a good starting point. If your having memory related problems increasing/decreasing this value might help, or indeed solve your problem completely.
Ai Transaction Booster - Another Asus feature. Setting this to manual brings up the following sub-options for manual system performance configuration.
Common Performance Level - Options are 1-31. The higher the value the better compatibility with your DRAM will be (supposedly). Setting a lower level will (again, supposedly) enhance memory performance.
Pull-in of chan A/B - The number of these options that appear depend on DRAM frequency and NB strap. Enabling these supposedly "Enhances" DRAM on channels A and B. Beyond that I'm unsure as to what exactly these options are supposed to specifically do.
CPU Voltage - Min-Max values are 0.85000v to 2.1000v respectively in increments of 0.00625v. You can key in a value within this voltage rainge instead of having to hold "+" down until the desired voltage comes up.
CPU PLL Voltage - Values range from 1.5v to 2.78v in 0.02v increments. In a nutshell before anyone asks, a CPU PLL is a low voltage differential signal. Raising this may help stabilise high frequency FSBs on the CPU.
FSB Termination Voltage - Values are 1.2v to 1.9v in 0.02v increments. Essentially FSB termination sets the final line resistance in traces. Without this option there would be a lot of "noise" going on, increasing FSB termination can reduce this noise, better calibrating things within the traces when overclocking. This is a largely hit and miss approach as theres no way of knowing the specification for the circuit, so funnily enough the answer to if you should use this or not is play around, and use whatever works best.
DRAM Voltage - Options are 1.8v to 3.08v. Unless you happen to live in a sub-zero freezer setting voltages above 2.2v with passive cooling isn't a good idea, and going above 2.4v isn't such a smart move with a fan blowing over your memory, either.
NB Voltage - Options are 1.1v to 2.26v in 0.02v increments. No more than 1.4v should be required for FSBs in the range of 425 - 500MHz.
SB Voltage - Options are 1.1v to 1.4v in 0.02v incriments.
PCI-E/SATA Voltage - Options are 1.5v to 1.8v. Theres no reason to raise this value above default other than if your trying to overclock the PCI-E bus.
Load Line Calibration - Best set to Enabled, this option directly helps improve Vdroop.
CPU/PCI-E Spread Spectrum - Both options are best left Disabled. Setting them to enabled does nothing but help control EMI (Electro Magnetic Interference).
CPU/NB Clock Skew - A method for generating clock signals, its an effortless way to try and gain more stability without the need to adjust the signal integrity of individual hardware components.
CPU Margin Enhancement - Present as of the 1004 beta BIOS. This option may allow for higher FSB frequencies when set to "Compatibility" on certain CPUs.
TIP: Download MemSet and play with Performance Level. I find that Asus is very conservative with this at stock settings and I was able to gain a good boost in memory bandwidth by setting it to a lower number. My Ballistix memory works great with Performance Level at 6. Previously it was at 8. I checked the bandwidth using Everest memory benchmarks. In your BIOS, it's called AI Transaction Booster. When you find the most stable low number, set it to that number in BIOS.
The key to finding this number is to keep on lowering it one step at a time, testing each change with Everest . At some point Windows will freeze. Reboot by pressing the reset button on your case and use the last stable number before the freeze. For me, it froze at 5.
TIP: Download IntelBurnTest. Forget Prime95, Orthos, OCCT, and all those other programs. IntelBurnTest will tell you if an overclock is stable in a short time.
- Just a note to everyone: auto or default volts are NOT DEFAULT AT ALL with this board. If you keep it at auto, the board will push it.
- Ex. 550MHz FSB with NB set to auto -> 1.35v-1.38v via DMM. vDDR is the same, goes up to 1.96v or so on auto @ 550MHz. So when testing, don't be surprised if it doesn't POST when you manually set 1.2v and think that thats what you been running at on AUTO.
- Overvolts NB and DDR by 0.04v (1.90v in bios is 1.94v real, 1.30v in bios is 1.34-1.35v real)
- Another thing, like its mentioned above, LLC doesn't seem to be doing much good for me either so avoid using it.
Here is the weird thing with the AUTO voltage settings: this board will not always boot with those settings increased as much as they are at other times, so its best you manually figure out how much volts you need to avoid times when you can't figure out why its stable and then suddenly unstable. Sometimes I have it boot with NB at 1.30v, sometimes 1.38v on AUTO. Bad :shakes:
PLL and VTT readouts are painful to reach (especially with ultra 120 in the way), I wish there was a soft tool that could give me at least some number that I could use to figure out what this board sets them on auto and 4ghz CPU.
This board is almost identical to the other p5q boards (DDR2 only), so if you need to do more research, the P5Q thread should help you as well. Main difference is the 16phase power vs 8phase on the "E".
Dee, thanks for the post. I copied that one down and have read through it a bit (twice).
ahmad, I've been reading for days man and I can't seem to get a headway going. LOL.
I've seen this mentioned before as well about leaving things on auto. How do I know what the DEFAULT voltages are supposed to be to set them? Without hands on until Tuesday, I don't quite understand.
So far I somewhat understand CPU Voltage settings, I fully understand DRAM voltages (my purchased RAM spec is 2.0-2.1V which I believe 2.06V is what I need for 8GB for full clock). From there, overclocking is a bit of a mystery.
Its pretty easy, the bios tells you what is default.
DDR Voltage: 1.8v
PLL: 1.5v
VTT (termination voltage): 1.10v for wolfdale
NB: 1.2v
CPU: Depends on your chip
The rest you can tweak (SB, GTLs) as you figure out your max oc.
Cool, it's nice to know that the bios tells defaults, that will help. I'm not looking to have an "xtreme" system (water cooling, maxed out, full throttle) per se, but I would like to reach what seems to be simple 3.4Ghz on my Q9550. I think that is a good medium that will last up to 3-5 years before the next computer build. My current system is an AMD 2800+ to give you an idea... I will be skipping the i7 generation.
I'm in the same boat as you are. I don't upgrade much (from generation to generation) as you can see in my sig. I went from what's in my sig to this,Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottDaMan
P5Q-E
Q6600 @ 3.880
2 x 2gb DDR2 Gskill PC8000
ATI HD 4850
Watercooled
That right there gave me hugh performance increase for the program I use it for, not much of a gamer maybe once it a while. What's that like 4-5 years before an upgrade, matter of fact I still have my system in sig (for my 11 year old daughter), I too will be skipping all this i7 generation.
just play magical computers with your family members.... :-p
i did my rig overhaul(in sig) and the old p35/2140 combo budget went to the sister, whose old p4/9800 pro(my older old rig) went to be the web surfer at my dads place (whose running my old opty170 for his gaming rig) notice a trend?
anyways whats the story with bios? i've been using 1103 since it was released but now i see 1003 is the only one listed on asus site, there a specific reason? something to be worried about with 1103?
Geez, I don't know what to say. I just downloaded P5Q-E-ASUS-1201.zip on 08/22/2008 and it had the 1101 on there as well. I guess that settles it, I won't be updating the BIOS when it arrives. LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by Flip_Lx
I just used some creative "header following" with firefox and discovered the 1103 and 1201 are still on their server, they just aren't linking to it for some reason.
http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/...-ASUS-1003.zip
http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/...-ASUS-1103.zip
http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/...-ASUS-1201.zip
Yeah, I just got a E8500 w/ P5Q-E and I'm able to post at 533+ FSB.Quote:
Originally Posted by TI66ER
I put my old E6750 in the P5Q and the board wouldn't boot at 480 FSB (or anything past that), all settings were identical.
I had the E6750 paired up with the DFI P35 T2R before, so to test things out, I put the E8500 in the DFI board to make sure that it wasn't the DFI hitting an FSB wall and the DFI too posted at 533 without any problems (although it wasn't stable like the P5Q).
Anyway, for what it's worth, the P5Q is a MUCH easier board to OC than the DFI P35 T2R, and the P5Q too needs minimal voltage increases from stock... unlike the DFI which needed quite a bit of a voltage bump and LOTS of minor tweaks to remain stable at higher FSB. Maybe it's the P45 vs. P35, but that's just what I noticed.
I can post 575MHz+ easy. Getting that HCI 600%+ stable is a different challange..Quote:
Originally Posted by ochero
However I do like this board. Much easier to work with than my last gigabyte.
their is a new bios 1306 for asus p5QE i will test it
Wow, sheesh. Let us know how that goes.
Edit: Where did you find that? Their driver pages only has 1201?
Edit2: Was able to get the download link from your version number:
http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/...-ASUS-1306.zip
Do you remember what 1306 fixed?
The dreaded BSOD with LLC enabled problem is still present in 1306.
Couldn't get 600FSB stable either with this bios.
I didn't see any improvement over 1103 or 1201 to be honest.
Anyone know what 1306 is meant to fix or improve?
Also, does anyone else have problems with DVD drives reading very slowly? It took over 18 minutes to copy 3.17GB of data from a DVD to my hard drive today. Ridiculous. Thread here:
http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/sho...php?t=17912267
Check IDE channel settings in device manager, do you have DMA enabled?Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee
Transfer mode is set to "DMA if available".
Oh, and the new BIOS apparently fixes some RAM compatibility issues and detects EPP profiles.
1306 once again as the last two do is supposed to improve RAM compatibility personally I dont belive that this is all its supposed to do, so far the only two bioses that have been any good on my -E baord are 0803 and 1003, everything above that causes me nothing but RAM problems.
I am now on my 3rd kit of RAM, just testing it at kinda stock settings, with the timmings slightly tightened to 5-5-5-15-2T tRFC @ 60 1150mhz, stocks are 5-5-5-18-2T tRFC 78 @1150mhz.
the previous 2 kits of RAM were a 4gb kit of GEIL EVO ONE 1066mhz which worked fine at stock settings, but as soon as I started to overclock my system, even keeping the RAM at 1066mhz or below, I was getting memory errors all over the place, I dont know if this is something to do with the LLC problems you guys are talking about ? but the 2nd kit had the same problems which was a 4gb kit of G.Skill 1066mhz PQ.
I am falling out with ASUS and this board very quickly now, and looking at either moving back to my Gigabyte X38-DS4 or grabbing a DFI LT X38-T2R at the weekend, this board has a few more days of testing to aviod being thrown across the room.
The saga:
I liked bios 1201 until I accidentally set the NBv too low at around 665fsb and did not have one single instance of needing to clear CMOS jumper or any bios corruption until that one boot. 1201 became crap for me after that, and I had to reflash 1201 followed by 1103 (at stock clocks using afudos-I'm extra paranoid). After that 1201 was no-go period, and I finally had fairly normal behavior after that where I could properly power off/reboot & use F1 to reset bios again when re-clocking in 1103. This thing does not like to go over 533fsb ever since the 'great kaboom', but I've switched RAM so no biggie now as the new stuff won't go ape-crap speeds like my 1150's did on this board.
Anybody think swapping the bios chips and flashing the backup would change anything to get me back to 'easy 550'? My shipping/backup bios 0605 is utter crap on this rev1.01g mobo anyhow so I was thinking of making it v1003 or 1103.
I tried ASUS official 1306 - same inconsistencies from boot to boot as 1201 did & went back to 1103. I tried my current 4GB (2x2) Reaper1066 kit, a 2x1GB Reaper1150 kit, and a 2x1GB Platinum1066 kit.
However: Ket's modded 1306 seems fine so far with the 4GB kit to at least DDR1120 at decent timings and PL-8 with all pull-ins enabled - will do DDR1140 but timings too loose for my tastes. I may even get brave and try to see if I can get the 1150's over 1220 again on 5:6 divider, The 1066 Platinums did 500fsb/DDR1200 fwiw (but did get warm at only 2.04v setting.
If it helps anyone - I use tRFC of 50 with the 2x1Gb kits up to DDR1200 and 55 with the 4GB kit up to DDR1140. My board doesn't like PL-7 but runs PL-8 on anything except 1:1 where I usually have to go to PL-10 or PL-9
I'm thinking a nice E0 8400/8500 might do really sell on this board - the E7200 runs 3800 fairly easily but I gotta pour on the Vcore to get 4GHz+ with high bandwidth settings.
Seanie, get Ket's modded BIOS. They rock.
Thanks mate, looked it up this morning as I noticed the modded bioses earlier when reading the post above yours.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee
Just one thing, if Ket's bios give me what I want, ie, Memory Stability, then I think we should all have a vote and get Ket hired by ASUS, the first suggestion I will give him once he gets his foot in the door is to fire their bios writters.
What NB GTL are you running?Quote:
Originally Posted by thehinge1
'Auto' after playing around at and on both sides of 0.63 without any noticeable improvement.
And I agree re: Ket!Quote:
Originally Posted by ahmad
ATTENTION ASUS: HIRE KET AND FIRE YOUR CURRENT BIOS anti-ENGINEERS!!!
I got very noticable improvements when I lowered it slightly (x0.610).Quote:
Originally Posted by thehinge1
Agreed!Quote:
Originally Posted by Seanie's Show
:up:
Thanks, I got to x0.615 & gave up, am trying .610 now at 533fsb with 4GB RAM running 1:1. PL-12was fine all-around, trying PL-11 now. I've never seen 6,833MB/s in Memtest before (at least without errors)!
Quote:
Originally Posted by ahmad
Yeah I hope that the LLC on the P5Q-E get fix on the upcoming bios (modded or asus) without it this board droop way way to much, something like .08 idle and .14 load:down:...very bad:shakes:.Quote:
Originally Posted by ti20n
Can anybody give me his stable settings for the 2x2gb corsair dominator 8500C5DF at 1066MHz? I mean voltages , timings etc.
Thanks.
I just bought the P5Q-E with 4 gigs of G Skills 8500 ram. I have a very nice water cooled kit and I want to run it at 4.1ghz 24.7
Can i please get what setting others are using to get this
Thanks
If you tell me what chips they use, it could be similar to what I have.Quote:
Originally Posted by mathewgx
I bought this motherboard and at this moment I wish I didn't.
It's the worst motherboard I ever had.
First of all the BIOS that came with the board was just HORRIBLE! I think it was 0604. The system was totally unstable. Then I upgrade do the official 1306 and now I have Ket's m1306.
I have 5 SATA HDD's and 1 SATA DVD-RW. First I've made an array of Raid 0 with two of the HDD's, but the system was very unstable. I've deleted the array and it seems better.
Then, It doesn't detect my CPU right (E8400). I didn't changed anything because I want it to run as default for now, but the board is underclocking my CPU :eek:
Here are some pics:
http://img385.imageshack.us/img385/9...t001gg0.th.png http://img385.imageshack.us/img385/6...t002se1.th.png http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/6...t003cf5.th.png
Is this normal?
It seems I have to manually configure this board. Can anyone give me some help, and say what do I need to do and what I should disable or not in the BIOS?
Thanks! :up:
Its speedstep that is downclocking your cpu,when it is not under load speedstep drops the multi/vcore to conserve power.
I've disabled SpeedStep on the BIOS, but now CPU-Z is flashing between 2GHz x6 and 3GHz x9.
It does not stay at 3GHz x9 :confused:
C1E Suppport: Disabled ???Quote:
Originally Posted by Crow-
Thanks Leeghoofd, now its fixed :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Leeghoofd
But, how about the Raid problem?
With 5 SATA HDD's, 2 on RAid 0 and a SATA DVD-RW the board didn't looked to well. Sometimes when booting it couldn't pass throught the Windows Vista loading screen. It keep loading, and loading and I needed to reboot.
Since I remove the Raid array It never happened again :confused:
Is was Raid 0 with 64Kb stripe. And the Raid drives where on SATA1 and SATA2 ports. I just have one HDD on the orange ports, because SATA6 port is blocked by the HD4850 :mad:
Anyone?Quote:
Originally Posted by Quad-Damage
which CPU ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Quad-Damage
E8500 with 4 gigs of G skills PC DDR2 8500
I get my E8500 in 1 day from the egg and I hope it's G0 :)
You mean E0? ಠ_ಠ.
Where do I find this Ket modded 1306 bios I've read about in this thread? What is it supposed to do? Thanks.
Nevermind, found the thread here! :)
Aye. Good luck on that one. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Quad-Damage
Yo guys :) I'm running a E6850 on this board for a while, but for some reason I cannot stabilize this board at even 450 fsb. Any tips? I feel as if I'm missing something vital :\ I mean I got 750c5 validated but I am fsb limited lol...
Can anyone running a wolfdale tell me whether this board is good for 500+ fsb? Have one next to me meant for my dad but I could swap my P5E with it..
My P5Q-E did 500FSB easy, shouldn't be a problem with a Wolfie. ;)
^^ What bios was this with and what setting did you have to change?
Sorry i meant E0
What strap and what vNB? Those are important.Quote:
Originally Posted by I34z1k
Also I think you need mega high PLL for an E6850 at 450fsb. I mean 1.60v+ at least.
Get leeghoofd's template and fill that or take a screen shot of your bios..
Ahmad. Any tips on what tweaks I can do to try and make 4.3GHz stable? I have a stable OC right now of 4.25GHz on 1.376V (load) but the extra 50MHz using 1.4V bang on just isn't happening.Quote:
Originally Posted by ahmad
I have my E6750 running at 450fsb at 1.56pll fine.
I'm posting my template for the 4.25GHz OC. What can I change to get higher clocks without adding a ton of vCore?
Code:
Ai Tweaker
Ai Overclock Tuner ................. [Manual]
CPU Ratio Setting .................. [Auto]
FSB Frequency ...................... [425]
PCIE Frequency ..................... [100]
FSB Strap to North Bridge .......... [Auto]
DRAM Frequency ..................... [1021]
DRAM Clock Skew on Channel A1 ...... [Auto]
DRAM Clock Skew on Channel A2 ...... [Auto]
DRAM Clock Skew on Channel B1 ...... [Auto]
DRAM Clock Skew on Channel B2 ...... [Auto]
DRAM Timing Control ................ [Manual]
1st Information : 5-5-5-15-3-52-6-3
CAS# Latency ..................... [5 DRAM Clocks]
DRAM RAS# to CAS# Delay .......... [5 DRAM Clocks]
DRAM RAS# Precharge .............. [5 DRAM Clocks]
DRAM RAS# Activate to Precha ..... [15 DRAM Clocks]
RAS# to RAS# Delay ............... [Auto]
Row Refresh Cycle Time ........... [Auto]
Write Recovery Time .............. [Auto]
Read to Precharge Time ........... [Auto]
2nd Information : 8-3-5-4-6-4-6
READ to WRITE Delay (S/D) ........ [Auto]
WRITE to READ Delay (S) .......... [Auto]
WRITE to READ Delay (D) .......... [Auto]
READ to READ Delay (S) ........... [Auto]
READ to READ Delay (D)............ [Auto]
WRITE to WRITE Delay (S) ......... [Auto]
WRITE to WRITE Delay (D) ......... [Auto]
3rd Information : 14-5-1-6-6
WRITE to PRE Delay ............... [Auto]
READ to PRE Delay ................ [Auto]
PRE to PRE Delay ................. [Auto]
ALL PRE to ACT Delay ............. [Auto]
ALL PRE to REF Delay ............. [Auto]
DRAM Static Read Control ........... [Disabled]
DRAM Read Training ................. [Disabled]
MEM. OC Charger .................... [Enabled]
Ai Clock Twister ................... [Moderate]
Ai Transaction Booster ............. [Manual]
Common Performance Level ......... [08]
Pull-In of CHA PH1 ................. [Disabled]
Pull-In of CHA PH2 ................. [Disabled]
Pull-In of CHA PH3 ................ [Disabled]
Pull-In of CHA PH4 ................ [Disabled]
Pull-In of CHA PH5 ................ [Disabled]
Pull-In of CHB PH1 ................ [Disabled]
Pull-In of CHB PH2 ................ [Disabled]
Pull-In of CHB PH3 ................ [Disabled]
Pull-In of CHB PH4 ................ [Disabled]
Pull-In of CHB PH5 ................ [Disabled]
____________________________________
CPU Voltage ........................ [1.39375] * Actual = 1.376V under load) *
CPU GTL Voltage Reference (0/2) .... [0.650]
CPU GTL Voltage Reference (1/3) .... [0.670]
CPU PLL Voltage .................... [1.52]
DRAM Voltage ....................... [1.86]
NB Voltage ......................... [1.12]
NB GTL Reference ................... [Auto]
SB Voltage ......................... [Auto]
PCIE Voltage ....................... [Auto]
____________________________________
Load-Line Calibration .............. [Enabled]
CPU Spread Spectrum ................ [Disabled]
PCIE Spread Spectrum ............... [Disabled]
CPU Clock Skew ..................... [Auto]
NB Clock Skew ...................... [Auto]
CPU Margin Enhancement ............. [Performance Mode]
____________________________________
Advanced > CPU Configuration
CPU Ratio Setting .................. [Auto]
C1E Support ........................ [Enabled]
Max CPUID Limit .................... [Disabled]
IntelŪ Virtualization Tech ......... [Disabled]
CPU TM Function .................... [Enabled]
Execute Disable Bit ................ [Enabled]
IntelŪ Speedstep(TM) Tech .......... [Enabled]
IntelŪ C-STATE Tech ................ [Enabled]
There is vtt and there is pll, i am guessing you quoted vtt (FSB termination), cause PLL starts at 1.50v.
I am actually amazed you can do 4.25GHz with 1.12 vtt, but that might be because of auto strap setting you are using (which could be defaulting to 400MHz).
Did you make sure the board is stable at 430MHz FSB and those settings? Drop your multi and test it at 430x8 or less and see if you dont get errors. If you do, then you might want to up vtt or vNB until it is stable. It will be hard to figure out what to do next without this step.
Also, try with your CPU GTL 2 at auto instead of 0.670.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee
Thank you. I'll try your suggestions. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by ahmad
Yes, the 1.12 for PLL was an error, it's 1.52.
I will raise VTT from 1.12 a little. The Auto strap is defaulting to 333, btw.
WOW. I need at least 1.48v on the NB for 460MHz FSB and 333 strap. I think your vNB is way too low for 430MHz FSB, just crank it to 1.4 then test and you can tweak it if you want to conserve on the volts later once its stable.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee
More than likely this is your problem.
FWIW, my E7200/P5Q-E will do 533fsb all day at 1.36v on NB. 550fsb wants 1.40v but running 2x2GB ram w/XP64 may be a slight part of the extra volts needed.
Got my E8500 up and running it's at 3.16 but is ideling at 33 to 35 c :)
I love water cooling :)