Thats with P02 right? Some are seeing even better YF FSB results with P02.
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my next goal is to get 475fsb stable on my q6600 cpu......any suggestions on voltages i should use, i am also running 4gb iof ram wich already requires 1.5v on the nb to be stable.
stop being a wuss and get those gpus on water ;) that is if you can put blocks on EVGA cards . . .lol. Why you guys let BFG get the jump on you with Danger Den is beyond me. Did you guys try to work out a deal with EK? EVGA cards deserve better than Black Pearl man. Way better. You guys make awesome stuff and have awesome customer service. stop lowering yourselves.
Yes P02. Pretty low chipset voltages too (FSB voltage at 1.3, NB voltage at 1.45) compared to X38. For GTL reference volrage adds I'm using .1/.1/.1/.1 but that is just random trial and error that seems to work OK -- no actual idea what I'm doing there as compared to the GTL reference settings in the DFI P35/X38 bios.
I'd really love to find stability at 500 FSB for 24/7 use when the 9450s come out (8x multiplier).
Yeah, I'm not banking on 500 fsb for a quad. It seems that maybe Intel has figured out how to keep their lower-priced processors from competing head to head with the higher priced models (low multis plus limited FSB headroom). :(
Can you use the EK Supreme CPU block with this board?
for those with the XFX board it is possible to flash to EVGA's bios and back. just use the /F switch.
I've assembled my XFX 780i and am only able to get about 100MHz more out of it then on my 680i with Q6700 and cheap 667mhz memory. I don't like to use excessive voltage since my boxes run Boinc 24/7.
one thing i did notice is that the memory performance is better. I get my good Corsair memory back from RMA tomorrow, now i need to RMA my G.Skill 1000Mhz memory...
Ya lets hope it doesnt fry DDR2 like the 680i does....So many RMA so little time
I have the XFX 780i
Q6600 PCPC 750 silencer. water cooled cpu gpu. ballistix 8000
only two sticks in at the moment.
I can get 3.6 pretty stable, but I had this 3.9 stable on a p5k deluxe.
3.7 and up on this and I am not stable, and get A0 display and no post
after reboot, also, vdroop I have to set 1.6 in bios to keep 1.47 under load.
1.47 on the p5k was stable many hours prime. small fft's
any tips? when do i need to drop htt on this? at what fsb.
If someone can point me to a decent 680i thread would be appreciated, thanks.
Nostromo
Is there some serious differences between the evga-xfx models (with reference layout) and the asus p5n-t?
I can't find a comparison between nforce mobos on web.
Bye
Hi there.
Can anyone tell me if the the NB chips at 780i board are the same height or is there height difference. Cant find a mobo here and want to make the water block.
I'll appreciate any info.
Eddy
http://www.lavalys.com/beta/everestu...wel3fkdm5c.zip
New beta that works with the 780i. It now correctly recognizes it and read the sensors properly.
Shawn
I, for one, feel like a complete idiot. I returned my Xfx 780i mobo and got the Evga 780i. I thought that step up policy applied to motherboards but I am sadly mistaken. I am making too many mistakes with my build.
FuriousSalesman, step-up is nto for motherboards but evga did give an upgrade option for 680i board owners so they might over some incentive for the next generation as well (probably not 780 to 790 but maybe to the following chipset)
i dont see a reason to go to DDR3 intill nehalem.
I am a very indecisive. Its been a few years since I built my last computer. I guess I lean towards DDR3 because its "cool and new". I bought some really cheap OCZ 800mhz gold edition DDR2. http://clubit.com/product_detail.cfm?itemno=A4308035
Is this good enough? Or should I look for better ram?
just got my new board, from RMA, a new board....im having trouble getting my ram stable at fsb 1712, my other 780i which had the A0 problem, didnt have this issue......hmmmm is it my ram or my board.........im using 1.5v on the nb and 1.65 on sb, 1.4 for fsb and 1.4 for ht..............
UPDATE: so 2gb works fine, pases memtest blend normally, but 4gb is trouble, i have the nb voltage almost maxed out......this is def. an NB issue in my opinion...............soon as i put in 2 sticks it fails prime blend within 1 minute, but with one stick it works fine..........any ideas on this guys? thanks
are these running any cooler than the 680i chipsets?
GAR have you tried lowering the nb voltage? Also what cooling are you using on it at max volts? ie .. do you have a fan, a watercooler, just standard...?
Got teh board in but haven't had a chance to open it, probably will test it out tomorrow and start really playing with it over the weekend (hoping for at least 3.6 with my q6600 and the closer to 4 the better)
here is the thing with this board, seems like at stock fsb 1066mhz it will prime blend no problems with 2 sticks 4gb total, but with fsb 1712 it wont pass prime blend with 2 sticks, but it passes with 1 stick......im using stock cooling and i have a 120mm fan blowing on the nb when testing.............well its getting late here in SoCAL so imma get some rest will test some more when i get free time tommorow..........if anyone else with 4gb kit could test it out at higher fsb, 1600+ i would appreciate it, thanks.
I wish I could find one in stock. :(
I also have an XFX 780i plus a Q6700, tough power 1200 watt PS, and Corsair 1142MHz memory. running the 2.4v Seti application all i can get "stably" is 3.5MHz (10x350MHz fsb). I have the vdrop mod done and have 1.43 cpu voltage set in bios, everything else except memory is set at auto (memory is at 1.95 volts). currently i'm running out of the case (so no water cooling) and am using a thermalright ultra 120 extreme heat sink.
OK guys an update, seems i had another bad board, but eVGA's BEST!!!! customer service is sending me another board, they have the best service i have ever seen from a company, they have gained a customer for life, keep up the good work!!!!!!
Gar--
I was starting to think about popping the P5K back in, but spent a little more
time with the 780i ..
There is as you found out a HUGE hole of some sort, where rebooting causes the A0 code on reboot. thats why I was having such a hard time. once you pass the hole, reboots are normal.
I could not get over 3.6 stable with thing until i did the vcore pencil mod.
setting higher volts to compensate for vdroop did not seem to work.
I am typing this with my quad at 4.2 (waiting for blue screen any second).
I played through the crysis demo at 4.1 no problem.
running my memory at 5-5-5-18 2t unlinked 1000
I am only running 2 of my 4 1 gig ballistix at the moment though.
can anyone point me to a read about the HT settings, I remember back in the athlon days having to keep ht in a certain range for stability, but not sure about it now, seems 5 is the loosest setting, and 4 and 3, so on is tighter? but how do you figure tha range to keep it at?
Nostromo
Sorry for re-post, but hey all, try this.
Lock your memory at 800, make sure timings and mem volts are ok, then see what you can do with overclocks.
Nostromo
I also see the A0 soft restart issue starting at around 1640 MHz. I'm using the evga bios, anyone try the xfx?
EDIT: Okay, I went and found the exact range for my board. From 1627-1721 MHz (inclusive) I get the A0 soft restart problem, while above and below is fine. I'll tool around and see if I can find any sensitivity to the breaking points.
I have the XFX and have not gotten the A0 problem....Ive booted to windows got 06 to run at 8x500 but it failed the cpu test...I run 1600x9 and my crucial balistics 8500 @ 1100mhz 24/7.....Ive benched 06 at 8x1925....
gmod, does the shipping XFX bios still have the half mullti? as shown here:
http://www.legitreviews.com/article/616/4/
It is missing from the EVGA, although the "setting" column under fsb and mem config shows it (although it doesn't actually boot up that way)
well, one of my boards had the A0 error, the other didnt, and one of them couldnt get a stable clock with 4gb if its life depended on it, no matter what fsb............the board is too imature, but it seems like we are going to have some issues again that nvidia will sort out with bios updates, if not we will have a new revision soon.
UGH!
I had been running small fft's with no problem, didnt even think to try blend.
so now with blend I blue screen reboot..
running 9 multi, 1823 (455 fsb) all voltages maxxed green except mcp 1.6
and cpu 1.5..
nostromo
yeah that was my story, run blend and blue screen, i have put my X38 back in for now.
whew! and i was about to pull the trigger on another ultra, glad I didnt.
Nostromo
My fresh install with the board went fine.
Couple of things though
Only two onboard usb headers (my asus P5N32-E and striker had 3, sucks with a stacker 830 and a internal usb card reader)
firewire port is between the video cards??? The fact that I have a removable motherboard meant that I had already installed my video cards and sound card, slid it in and voila no way to access it :(
also the usb headers are placed beside the digital bios display, the wires I connect with run right across it blocking the view
Most annoying, again with a removable motherboard tray, video cards installed, the stupid front panel connectors are actually under my second video card with about 2 1/2" clearance to bottom of the case. spent half an hour with a pair of small pliers before i got them plugged in. Fired it up and then realized that the chart in the manual was wrong. grrrrr
Other than that the board has been stable and booted first shot.
I pre-ordered the E8500 (should be receiving it Jan 24) so I'm looking forward to the combination.
btw the nb fan is freakin loud!
P02 bios is now on XFX site http://www.xfxforce.com/web/support/...oductCode.jspa
Mine doesn't, but i only have a q6700 and maybe it only shows up with quad extreme cpu (qx96xx).
Can anyone tell me if there are vrm's or mosfets that are cooled at the top of the heatpipe assembly? I was planning on stripping the pipes off and putting a nb and sb cooler on the board. I noticed there is a separate heatsink at the top of the cpu (covering vrm's I assume) but what about the taller stack just right of the cpu? I've read that the whole assembly is tricky to remove and reset so I don't want to take it apart without some advice.
http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.asp?m=213464
I removed the stock heatsink to find out it wasn't making good contact with the SB Chip! The SB appears to be using the same crappy thermal compound as was used on the 680i boards. I had to straighten the SB Arm relative to the NB portion, I placed the heatsink on grannite and worked in until all the legs contacted the surface. now I'm getting 68 degrees C.
Update:
second attempt, I'm now down to 48 idle and 50 degrees C under load.
i did as dilburt suggested and peeled off the sides to leave just four posts of foam. I also filed down the standoffs on the heat sinks. i didn't remove much material other then remove burrs and made them flat.
Hey all, first post. :) Working on putting together up my 1st wc box.
DarthBeavis, what are you using to connect your 8800's to each other? I have the EK blocks and the barbs are too long for the 3-way. Should I grab a stubby or two or perhaps give the DD male-to-male nipple a whirl? (Man, that last sentence just doesn't sound right...)
Mine reads about 54-56 degrees C at idle. Wow, glad you looked into that and figured it out! I had thought about checking mine out before I installed it, but I decided to chance it. It would seem that it all worked out this time. I did, however, swap out the stock (f'ing loud) fan and tie-wrapped a Vantec Stealth 60mm in it's place. Temps stayed the same, but the niose level dramatically dropped.
Shawn
The ntune beta 6.0 is pretty neat. Seems to work well with the 780i board
Found a little feature I didn't know about, If you hit reset 5 times it'll default back to stock FSB.
Hey GAR:welcome: remember me :P:?
i just finshed with my frist overclock ever:rolleyes:
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/8651/overclock2ld3.jpg
What do you think?
if you have some tips i would be realy thankful :):p:
hey ronaldo, nice bro, try to reach 4ghz, you will be very happy with 4ghz on air......go for 400x10 with 1.5v on the NB
Well if it's a reference board of Nvidia I really doubt EVGA has a say into it as prolly XFX and co models will look very very alike. EVGA and XFX just put info via users to adapt the bios and co , PCB related it's all the design of the Green team...
if anyone finds this board in stock somewhere in the US could you please post it. so far i have found this place which says they will have it tomorrow. http://www.keenzo.com/showproduct.as...1179060&ref=GB
MotherboardPro is going to start shipping some out when they get resupplied. If you really want one, it would be good to secure a pre-order.
http://www.motherboardpro.com/Asus-P...ard-p-470.html
http://www.motherboardpro.com/EVGA-1...ard-p-468.html
just opened the board and the spring for one of the vreg heatsink screws is unraveled, it seems to run ok with that screw out but its annoying that something would ship from the factory like that. Also once I install the board in my case and set up the watercooling I am not really going to want to take it out to deal with that screw (assuming I have them ship me just a screw and not a whole new board).
The screw is supposed to be there. Apparently it is connected to one of the sensors. All of the boards have it
well i just slapped in a 3rd video card for tri-sli.. I will do some benching and testing later this week. I have to get a new ups as my current one will overload once in 3d mode.
Robilar, I know the screw is supposed to be there but with all the others the spring is between teh screw and the board and with that screw the spring is half way off the screw and would touch the motherboard tray
Bad experience with TRI-SLI I was getting artifacting at about the 2 minute mark with atitool. Still with all three cards I could boot into windows at 812mhz on core. :D
I've started mounting wb's so I shouldn't have that problem anymore.
It's a grounding "spring" for the MCP heatsink and should be in contact with the MB tray (according to the guys at the evga forums).
I just finished modding my 780i. And by mod I mean getting it to run under boiling. An out-of-the-box test run had the MCP (southbridge) running at 90C. It went as high as 96C while I was setting up the BIOS.
Apparently, nvidia has a brilliant heat management strategy for their MCP chips which involves tons of thermal paste, and foam heat pads. Except, the foam isn't supposed to be a heat pad. After taking off the MCP 'sink, removing the misplaced foam spacers, bending the heatsink so it was flat and flush, reapplying a reasonable amount of thermal paste, and painstakingly reattaching the MCP heatsink, I am now running between 60 & 70 wishing for a LC solution.
And from what I'm reading at the evga forums, I'm not the only one who got a board where the foam spacers were misplaced and making contact with the northbridge and southbridge chips.
My MCP runs at around 50c lucky I guess.
http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...ing-guide.html
Here is a mod I did for the NB cooling fan on the EVGA (which sounds like a jet engine). See post #3
I used an antec spotcool
I have an XFX 780i on the way whenever NCIX gets more stock in :(
Was out of stock by the time my order got processed...
Have a qx9650 with no mobo to live in right now and it's a sad CPU.
The spring is on some boards, it is for EMI.
Also, EVGA will have an 8 phase/solid state cap version soon :D
http://www.evga.com/about/pressrelea...ault.asp?id=43
I like the NB HS and fan setup. I also like its blackness...Oh well sticking with my regular cap version!!!
I realy like the idea that you can have tri-sli and some sort of watercooling for the southbridge.
Altough it isnt direct, its a lot better than aircooling only.
On the other hand....heatsink with active fan on the SB (VC-RE) and apart waterblock on the NB might give better cooling performance.
I believe the SB sink is part of the water block, at the least it runs to the water block. IOW it will be 'cooled' using the water block.
If you look at the bottom pick, you'll notice that the fan on the heatsink overhangs the first video card slot. No way a video card would fit in that slot. Of course these are early pictures of samples.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ShowIm...el+Motherboard
Nope. I have the regular version of this board, same heatsink. The SB is definately not watercooled by the NB heatsink.
Also, it doesnt look like its covering it up. Its damn close, dont get me wrong. But you have to remember that the card is only 1-2mm taller where it plugs into the slot (the middle of the slot, not the top). It may be a problem for some after market solution, but looks ok for stock cooling.
JAS i don't think we're talking about the same board. EVGA just announced the 780i FTW. There is a combo water block/air cool heat sink on the NB. Look at the pictures for the 780i FTW closely, you'll see the barbs they are partially hidden. Its also described in the press release for the 780i FTW.
Mjello Folks.
I have a question about the BIOS in evga/XFX 780i, can i do a BIOS update whit a Thumbdrive?
thx.
I can't seem to update my bios. I think I am following the instructions to the T. It keeps booting B1 bios.
I have the board (not the FTW). It has the same heatsink sans the watercooled NB. There is no watercooling on the SB period. No water comes close to the SB (from what I can see). Its just a heatsink. They are connected, but by no means would I call it watercooled, directly or indirectly.
Yes we are, I even referenced the difference.. And we are talking about the SOUTHBRIDGE that does not appear to be w/c, not the NORTHBRIDGE that has the watercooling.
See above.
By chance are you using the alternate Windows method as in this link?
http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.asp?m=204596
I personally would only use the Floppy method.
I have tried using a cd and the alernate method.
Both say that they are working and have correctly flashed but when I turn of my psu and then restart and load defaults nothing changes.
I was trying to avoid using a floppy, but I have a spare. I will see if that works.
yes you can!
USB FLASH PROCEDURES:...if you want to use an USB thumbdrive for booting and flash process, you will need to download this HP TOOL
on that link page, you will also see a link to download the windows 98 booting files that the HP TOOL will want in order to prepare your USB drive as a bootable device/drive.
HP TOOL - http://files.extremeoverclocking.com/file.php?f=197
Just received a QX9650 for my 780i board....Here are the initial results...still lots of tweaking to do....hopefully I can get to 4.5Ghz....nice chip so far:clap:
Temps seem ok...
-M
http://aycu15.webshots.com/image/398...3037324_rs.jpg
Yup...I will take a current shot of the case tonight...after tweaking some more!!
Here is a shot of it before the 780i.....and the changeout to a 3x120 rad for CPU..taken when I installed the 8800GTX's last year!!
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...an/mozart4.jpg
Here's another...
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...an/mozart1.jpg
Lit up!
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...an/mozart2.jpg
Someone please correct me if I am wrong but this is pretty basic thermodynamics guys...
Just b/c that NB is cooled by water has nothing to do with the SB. Sure its connected, sure the heat naturally 'rises' to the NB through that attached metal heatsink. But that doesnt make the SB watercooled. Nor would it be cooler b/c something down the line is watercooled. The SB is cooled by air, period. its uses the entire heatsink to help dissapate the heat, but the w/c NB has nothing to do with teh SB temps. The NB w/c does not pull more heat away from teh SB.
I don't agree.
Say you're in a ice hall with ambient temp 5`c and ice temp -15`c
If i take a pipe and put one end in the ice.
Than i ask you to lick on the other end of the pipe.
Would you do it with your formulation or think again about my formulation ?
I bet you keep your tongue inside, altough the air is 5`c
If the pipe makes good contact with the waterblock it sure wil transfer the heat to the much cooler waterblock.
Nobody is arguing that it transfers heat. It will transfer heat without the waterblock. I just dont think it will transfer heat any faster....Its connected to the block with a 2mm(h) x 1inch(L) (sorry about the mixed numbers) piece of metal. Where as the entire heatsink length is cooled by the air. I do not believe there is a heatpipe underneath either. The contact area from that SB heatsink to the NB waterblock is so small, it doesnt matter much if at all to teh SB. You think if it worked as you say that would be mentioned on the box. It says NB watercooler, not NBand SB. ;)
We will agree to disagree I suppose. :up:
Hehe :D
Well if theres no heatpipe underneath the plate there wont indeed be a big decrease in heat.
Altough I must say that it will always be cooler/better than air-cooling only.
Metal also distributes heat, far less than a good copper heatpipe, but it does.
Maybe its just 1-2`c difference but hey, cooler is better ;)
Think that its time for some good oc-tests dont you agree?
I must say I still disagree. Having taking classes on this crap in college, I wish I could use the big words to prove my point.....(example convection on a said substance does not improve when one end of it is colder). :ROTF: :rofl:
I think its time for some testing absolutely. :clap:
Jas, your making the assumption that the main contribution of removing the heat from the SB is convection from the small area above the SB. You are incorrect.
For starters, there are TWO race track shaped heat pipes on the underside connecting the NB to the SB. Even if there wasn't, the greater contribution would be conduction from the SB to the NB.
Conduction, convention....potato, potatoe. ;)
j/k.
I see I have my terms mixed up. My apologies to all in this conversation. With that being said, I still dont understand how the w/c would cool the SB at all. Im betting the difference in temps is no more than negligable...
Does that mean I win ? :up: :rofl: :ROTF: