My new stuff for maximus :)
http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/9510/dscf0534im4.jpg http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/1462/dscf0536dr4.jpg
http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/4190/dscf0537ab1.jpg
Final mount soon :)
My new stuff for maximus :)
http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/9510/dscf0534im4.jpg http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/1462/dscf0536dr4.jpg
http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/4190/dscf0537ab1.jpg
Final mount soon :)
yes, 1/2" fitting on one more block in my system to run in series will be good, and as the fusion block is supposed to come with that size i'm happy... otherwise, 1/2" aftermarket block to give better nb cooling at the sacrifice of sb cooling is ok by me too... but best would be the heatpipe + aftermarket block performance , connected by 1/2" fittings, thats why i was thinking about opening up the fusion block and carving patterns at the bottom of the block to create turbulenceQuote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
for the mosfets , i can either try to aircool it heavily like since they are next to the ram anyway so an additional 80mm or 120mm fan should take care of them, or if i get the mips blocks in a set of the mosfets, the nb and sb, then i shall have to find a pair of the magical y splitters which lets me branch a 3/8 or 1/4 line (whatever mips uses) from my main 1/2 loop...
hey malik thats pretty cool looking, especially the ornament of your name... it looks like aluminum tho, im not sure how people will take to that
::edit:: and oh yeah, the amakia guys arent replying to me... theyre probably going :yepp: :rofl: :ROTF: :clap: :D ;) to me right now, at the very least they could freekin respond to my email about my refund?first they sent me the wrong board and now theyre running away with my money... ive told them that the box is still intact and its all pristine and stuff... all i can think of is :down: :shakes: :mad: :( :confused: :eek: :p: at them ...
It's 2mm aluminium. For me it's ok, enough strong for backplate function.Quote:
Originally Posted by carmatic
Looks custom all the way!! Nice job. :up:
How much would the Talonman set go for!! :p: :cool:
Actually I need 2 mosfet, and 1 NB. ;)
coool... thats one purdy backplate you got there... are the rest of them backplates as well, not the actual sinks? you can never be too sure about just how much pressure can cause the board to bow out of shape... when i installed my new cpu cooler my evga 680i mobo, it bowed so much that the mosfets actually pulled away from the heatsink and you could see where the white termal goop is spread and half of it went up with the heatsink and the other half stayed with the mosfets, hopefully with a solid mosfet backplate this issue shouldnt occur... im really digging that keychain thing you did tho, its much cooler than just a sticker or something that comes with stuff from companies like zalman or something... or is that actually a backplate as well for the section between the northbridge and the mosfets? the way this is going we'll need a transparent motherboard tray!
aaarrrggghhhits NOT FAIR!!!!!! it wasnt my fault that THEY TRICKED ME into buying the non-SE board... even right now they still have not corrected their maximus formula pagesQuote:
we reserve the right to make a handling and restocking charge of 25% on goods which are returned if they are ordered in error or no longer required
http://www.amakia.com/customer/estor...dproduct=86851
http://www.amakia.com/customer/estor...dproduct=91452
the one out of stock is SE, the one in stock isnt! and that's what i bought... someone has got to stop them from ripping off more people like me and running away with 25% of the price of a maximus formula each time someone returns a board! and the tax alone was 17.5% so thats like £20 gone for good already
::edit:: YYYEEESSSS!!!!
basically i have 2 weeks to go through like, some kind of collection arrangement, i gotta call a company up and give them a ref number or somethingQuote:
Product:1x Maximus Formula Special Edition ATX LGA775 Core 2 Duo Quad Core
X38 1333FSB 8Gb DDR2 SATA II Raid 6 Port 2xPCI-E x16 Crossfire Dual
GigaBit LAN 2x1394a Audio
Please accept our apology for misleading 2 similar products information, return request has been authorised, please read the following instruction below:
My stuff cost me - 40 $ :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
Malik, your new gear looks great!! Very cool.
Are those mosfet backplates being sold? If so, where and how could I pick up a pair?
Any information pointing me in the right direction would be appreciated!!
TIA
This custom backplates was made by my friend. So if You want i can ask him, can he make for You ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by hartigan
Malik,
Thank you for the quick response.
I noticed your are in Poland? (I think) I think the shipping over the pond to thte US may be cost prohibitive. I'd be VERY appreciative if I could get the drawings he used to machine them or the dimensions.
That way I could at least work with the correct dimensions when I was trying to grind down my own.
Thanks again for your response!!
hey guys
anybody know who still sells the SE board in the UK? my new board arrived and its not the SE, even tho the website says it has the fusion block system ...
can anyone who has removed the fusion block from the mobo, but have not thrown it away, please post pics of it on the side? and see if its possible to open the block... i really want to see if its possible to make the fusion block more competitive with aftermarket blocks
or do you think that its just not worth it trying to refund the motherboards again and again, and just get a complete waterblock set to replace all the stock aircooling stuff on one of the maximus formula's i've got sitting in my house?
earlier i was thinking about giving up my search for a maximus SE, and buy a dfi UT x38 t2r mobo instead, after all its northbridge cooler comes 'pre-uninstalled' so thats one less step to watercooling it, its got more overclocking bios options, and the orange colour makes it go faster :bs: but i still kinda want a maximus because it has the LCD poster and colourful LEDs on the board... and its been around long enough to be easy to find, and for stuff like the aftermarket blocks to exist...
I got mine from Scan, looks like they only have the Extreme now so you'd need some DDR3.
I'm having trouble getting my E4500 stable at more than ~3.5GHz. I can get 3.7GHz (9x410MHz) to boot to windows, time to TEC it me thinks.
One thing that's bugging me is that Speedfan reports CPU temp as 10-15C lower than either core, more pressure needed on the block?
Will check and post idle/load temps later.
My cooling loop is unconventional:
3kl/h pump->22mm-4x10mm splitter
4 loops: CPU (NCW6000 NX), NB (Fusion), RAM (FlexXLC), GPU (DD Maze4) ideally 750l/h per loop->splitter->radiator
I'm thinking about losing the stock coolers, TECing the CPU (350W), NB (50W) and GPU (226W) but how to arrange the system if I add VRM coolers and an SB block?
I would keep the board, and buy aftermarket blocks myself....Quote:
Originally Posted by carmatic
The stock NB block can't be improved to stay on par with the aftermarket blocks I don't think...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Exahertz
Quote:
Originally Posted by Exahertz
http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/5352/pic096ab8.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by shim-on
Quote:
Originally Posted by awhir
Don't know if you guys know of this....
Dtek FuZion Intel 775 Pro-Mount set...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v87/djs61/d_4102.jpg
The FuZion Pro-Mount set allows fitment to 775 boards with minimal bracket intrusion and utilizes a metal backplate to prevent motherboard warpage due to mounting pressures.
Found them here at jab-tech.com.
Thanks for the post Scooby. ;)
Raju mentioned the heat pipes contact issue too, good to see the picture posted though Exahertz. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by raju
raju's and Bingo13's Maximus SE review:
http://www.anandtech.com/mb/showdoc.aspx?i=3149
Nice! Did you get bigger tubing since the previous pictures?
Good job man! It just looks like a runner... :cool:
Yes, now i have Tygon 3603 3/8" ID (1/2" OD) Clear Tubing ( previos rev. - Innovatek 8/10 ).Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate P.
Thanks T :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
Here more pics: Malik Theme
How did you fill your loop, mine is set up almost like yours but i had a lot of troubble filling mine as i kept getting large air bubbles in it. do you have some pictures of your fill and drain ports?Quote:
Originally Posted by Malik
I fill my loop up through EK-Multioption RES. So i don't have any problems with air bubbles :)
http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/9...0997zb4su6.jpg
Gents, some questions
1) Does anyone know how many litels of liquid i need to fill up a PA120.3?
2) taking the fact that i will use the onboard heatpipe. how did you do with leak testing the system? was everytning build outside the case and them put into the case? several posts in the forum mention that all testing has been done outside the case. so i get that. but having the pa120.3 mounted at the bottom of the stacker 832 and the mobo on the backplate the only thing i can think of is by putting the chassi on the side, so if any leaks, the cooling drops to the floor, keep the cpu block not installed and the pump-reservoir on the side.
Still waiting for my kit to arrive so i a can start building
You can leak test in the case with everything assembled, no problem.
The important part is to not have power to the motherboard, just jumper the PSU to get power to the pump.
Water/coolant alone won't damage the motherboard or cards, as long as there's no power, you just clean it off, let it dry, and it'll be fine.
A PA120.3 is about 1/4 the size of my radiator (which holds a litre) so you should be OK with a 500ml bottle.Quote:
Originally Posted by neo_rtr
A quick way to do a leak-test is to disconnect a convenient pipe and with a finger over one pipe, suck the air from the system (clean the system first to avoid toxins). If it can sustain this partial vacuum for a minute or so your system should be OK. To be on the safe side also do a longer test (overnight) with the PSU jacked (or the pump running off the mains) and wrap tissue around every union. Using a dye helps identify leaks in case the coolant dries. The tissue should act as a buffer and running the test with the PC on its side will help stop coolant coming into contact with the components. Even if it does, so long as the PC is not powered up you should be OK unless you have a high glycol content in the system as this can attack some metals and resins.
After this it's time for a live stress test as so far the only load the system has had to deal with is the pump heat, ideally use a temperature and pressure meters during this stage and run the pump(s) off a seperate PSU. Boot your system and let it idle for a while then stress every water cooled component in the system simultaneously for up to half an hour. Do this by running a gaming benchmark that is not CPU limited and Orthos (small FFTs for CPU only, blend if you have watercooled RAM), if you have watercooled HDDs stress these with a defrag or large file transfers. Be ready to pull the plug watch the pressure and temps rise as the system heats up an the coolant expands. Know your limits (i.e. what your tubing and blocks are rated/tested to) and don't exceed them. If it does (if shouldn't without TEC) or if you see a sudden pressure loss shut of the PC immediately, not the pump as this will make back-pressure. Wait for the temperature to settle then switch off your radiator fans and repeat but don't let your system components exceed their max operating temperature, probably safest to keep CPUs & GPUs under 80C and RAM, NB, SB, MB and HDD under 45C and don't let the water temperature get over 70C with PVC. If your pressure did get too high consider replacing the cooling component(s) where this was exceeded, typically the hose or unions will fail first. Alternatively increase the volume of air in the reservoir to absorb the pressure. If you want to go for total overkill testing overclock to your highest 1-hour Orthos-stable settings and repeat. Then take it a stage further with TEC. PVC hose is good for 60C at 9bar so stay below these unless you've got stronger tubing.
The most common cause of a leak is a pinched hose at a union where a jubilee clip has been used and the hose ID is similar or bigger than the barbs OD or the clip is too big. I've had these (outside the case fortunately) a failed reservoir and a failed chipset block. I don't use a reservoir now, just a T-line.
Exahertz: to avoid air bubbles pump against gravity and have an air trap at the highest point in the system. A pair of Y-splitters and a T-line to your fill port or reservoir on the highest branch works well. Failing this use a reservoir like the EK Multi Option as this can be set up to act as a header. Ideally the top of this should be the highest point in the system and should have a small amount of air at the top to absorb pressure as the coolant expands under load. This is similar to how it is done in cars and is know as a deairation system, only they call it the header tank.
Now that is teh sex! Very clean looking. Nice work.Quote:
Originally Posted by Malik
I am going to have to snap some pics here once I get my Dtek. I have changed quite a bit and am now getting 28-29°C load temps on the NB.
Just say the word buddy, and I'll update your entry... ;)
Renegade5399 ---- 1.65v ------ 34°C -------------------------- E6850 GO @ 4GHz
[QUOTE=initialised;2698833]A PA120.3 is about 1/4 the size of my radiator (which holds a litre) so you should be OK with a 500ml bottle.
Thank you for your extensive feedback
Is a system that passes 3dMark2k6, and 5 min OCCT stable on CPU and RAM (slider left and right) considered stable here? I've not used prime because it prompts me for some file to download... 5min in OCCT is my start limit. No real program that I've found stresses the CPU like OCCT. TMPGEnc comes close but is not 100%. Even 3dmark2k6 at 100%CPU when you get maybe 2FPS, only loads the CPU 50 maybe 75% (I'm being generous) according to Everest, even though OCCT itself doesn't say 100% load, which in other threads has been discussed and the decided result of this anomaly was that it's internal temp limiting in the Q6600. That is the temp is limiting the execution speeds internally. A function of the die itself. Current leakage = higher temps. Higher temps = slower execution times. I think I have some extraordinary numbers for a typical WC system, but I am definately not one that just wants to post high numbers without following some agreed guidelines.
Ambient was 23*C. Still trying to find lower Volt limits. Takes time as I'm testing intentionally different Ambient temps.
Ram
Looking good man... :)
Thanks for the post.
Yeah?, Thanks.
If I could have spotted all your info, I would have hade your entry. :)
Starting, taking apart hardware.
http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/473...0042dp7.th.jpg
PA120.3 in place with noctua fans
http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/202...0050hi2.th.jpg
http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/1...0051rh3.th.jpg
http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/2...0052ds7.th.jpg
http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/3271/pict0053oj4.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-17
Ony one that have try to warm up the tube by putting it into the micro and warming it up for a few seconds, rather than using warm water
?
Hot air blower works great.
You only want to heat the end two inches not the whole tube. Its a narrow range from hot enough its soft and too hot to handle.
yes was about to do just that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedda
Cheers!
Work in progress
1) Pump
http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/8238/pict0055mv8.jpg
By neo_rtr at 2008-01-19
2) D-tek Fusion Block
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/3622/pict0056ui9.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-19
3) PA 120.3 and the T-Line filling port.
Started to put the T-line filling port on the same loop as the Cape Coolplex Pro 25 but could not fit it. so i change my plans. This is almost on the radiator Out port (only 2/3 mm apart so i can see the water level). I think it works to have it this way as well. Did not notice anything strange with the water flow.
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/7518/pict0057fu3.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-19
4) Filling port
http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/6705/pict0058ec3.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-19
this hangs just outside the chassi just now, will fix it later on.
The other things was i was not able to get a propper filling port ala DD style and this one works just the same.
5) Final set up.
http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/166/pict0059rd1.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-19
6) Leak test. I did try at first to blow and see if it holds. True i did notice a lead. The NB (Fusion block) was leaking. i had to change the metal ring and put cable clip to hold it in place. a bit strange!!
http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/1347/pict0062pc8.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-19
:clap:
Has been runnig for about 5 hours now with no leaks. starting cable work
Great pictures, and Shweeet looking system!!
First I have heard of a NB fusion block leaking...
I guess goes to show that you never know.
Glad you caught it. :up:
Don't be shy on posting your temps after you get it all set up.
I think i messed up.
my loop follows the following flow
From the pump to the cpu to the fusion block to the radiator to the tank to the pump
looking my previous diagram .. all wrong!!
Rebuild it
Pump out>Radiator>CPU>NB>Reservoir>Pump in
will post new pics later on
currently for leak testing
Sorry to hear buddy...
Yep, the best is:
Pump IN, is being fed from the res OUT,
pump OUT is pushing directly into the rad IN,
cooled rad OUT water goes directly to the CPU block center IN hole,
CPU OUT makes a quick trip over to the NB IN (either hole),
NB out goes back to the res.
I think that would be pritty much set for optimum performance for your loop. :up:
A good spot for the T-line is between res OUT, and pump IN.
What is your current plan, drain and re-do the loop?
Hey neo_rtr, what camera do you have? Nice looking system you got there!
His pictures do look outstanding....
Yeah, a very sharp image... looks really nice! I wish my camera was like that... (4MP sux!):mad:Quote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
He's using a Konica Minolta Dimage X1. Info was on the same post. And yes, great job on the pics. I got a Konica Minolta but a different model.
Gents thank you.
i did the loop from scratch.
1) Loop
http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/9418/pict0063sf6.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-20
2) CPU NB. notice that the metal ring was taken out of one of the barbs and replaced with cables ties.
i bit hard to get them tight but works. my opinion about the metal rings, not woth the trouble when dealing with this kind of installations. they do feel safe but for 2nd time got a leak because if you dont get them on the just the right position they bend the pipe causing leak. previously this happend with the NB and now again with the barbs on the D-Tek. So i change them to cable ties. worked like a charm.
http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/494/pict0064ef5.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-20
3) The loop 2nd part. NB to reservoir to the pump
http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/7752/pict0065eo1.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
Hi Talonman, Well this was my plan at first. But it will not fit. so i will try with out at first. LAter on maybe will chill out my 8800GTX OC and put one.
Work in progress. will post updates.
:)
How do you recognize rad IN and OUT in PA120.3Quote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
Seth decided for me, but when the RAD is orentated this way, it was the top hole for in, and the bottom hole for out.
I guess I don't know if there is an official IN and OUT on the RAD...
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/213/pic083vj7.jpg
http://img245.imageshack.us/img245/7562/temp1gobh1.png
By neo_rtr at 2008-01-20
1st go. nothing been tested yet. just after 10mins into boot..
Man I'm jealous....
Your off and running!! :cool:
It's got to feel good. ;)
Temps look good too...
Front of PC
http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/6349/pict0067sq5.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-20
Cabling for the Vga
http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/8219/pict0069ee1.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-20
Fun with tunnel front intake
http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/9858/pict0070vh5.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-20
Thanks.. feels good!! :welcome:Quote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
will do some testing tomorrow
PS iam running QX6700 at 3.6Ghz
http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/9...perhalfhl6.jpg
http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/7333/grillce2.jpg
http://img184.imageshack.us/img184/1...oseupnbmm8.jpg
CPU Block: Storm Rev 1 w/ Widened Jet Spray holes.
NB: Aftermarket 3/8 to 1/2 Reducers from Frozencpu
Pump: MCP655
Idle:
CPU - Core Temp: 7/11c
NB - 33
SB - 33C
Orthos Beta Loaded for about 10 hours:
CPU - Core Temp: 22/23c
NB - 38C
SB - 38C
---
Testing: 3.4ghz with 0907, will push 3.6 after bleeding.
CPUv: 1.30v
NB: 1.57v
DRAM: 2.38v
FSBt 1.49v
------
Still Bleeding with no water Additive for now at about 18 hours. WaterWetter soon but the PA120.3 is new so I'm just interested in clean water filtering for now. New Case/PSU, PA120.3, Denki's, and new Tubing = System up for 18 hours new :)
OP updated:
.OCX ------------- 1.57v ------ 38°C ---Orthos Beta for 10 hours --- E6750 @ 3.4GHz
Thanks for the post!
neo rtr, let me know when you are ready for an entry on our listing buddy.
This is what I would have for you so far:
neo rtr ----------- 1.70v ------ 38°C ----------------------------- QX6700 @ 3.6GHz
Your NB voltage might be a wee bit high?
Feel free to correct and re-post. :)
I am always glad update your info any time you would like, so don't feel your locked into anything that I might post boy's.. :up:
The NorthBridge is set as 1.63V i Bios- reported as 1.70V by PC Probe and everest-Quote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
Pc probe reports MB temp as 158c !!!!yes your read it right 158c
Reason for the higher NB voltage is that during testing had system errors, crashing and this settings has been rock solid for a good 3 months now (from previous set up on air cooling)
Rum temperature is 24.5C / 25C as per my digital thermometer.
testing full load
http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/8325/temp2goco0.png
By neo_rtr at 2008-01-21
idle
http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/5...2goidlebd3.png
By neo_rtr at 2008-01-21
------------------- NB volts -- NB Loaded -------------------------- CPU ------------------
neo rtr ----------- 1.70v ------ 42°C ----------------------------- QX6700 @ 3.6GHz
OP updated...
Thanks.... :up:
Last picture. I got one more fun this morning so the side panell looks like this.
http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/5239/pict0071hi7.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-21
Was going to put a fanduct from the side panel to provide additional flow to the NB and Memory area, sort to speak but no space left, the pipes are in the way. maybe next time.
now time to OC some more!! :shocked:
EDIT
redone cabling
http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/651/pict0073db2.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-24
You have enouigh air going in there so shame most cases. I wouldn't sweat it. ;)
I think it is looking fantastic... You did a good job. :yepp:
I love the molex snake :)
Looking at it does not look good. Maybe will redo the cable work and get all 4 cables coming from the fans joined and only one molex connector to the PSU molex.Quote:
Originally Posted by Xilikon
Cheers!:up:
It will look much better when you solder the wires and sleeve it in a tidy bunch with a single molex :)
Iam trying to overclock some more but getting huge issues.
1) OC of 3.8Ghz
2) OC of 4.0Ghz
I have try to go up to Vcore 1.70V with no luck.
Any one that knows any settings for the QX6700
I am into that the CPU PLL play some part to this.
So far 400 x 10 , 444 x 9 or 422 x 9 no go! :down:
will try to adjust the cpu pll to anything other than auto.
in the mean time any suggestions pls let me know
:welcome:
Know this is way past when it was asked, but my NB runs 54C to 56C on stock air cooling. Have it at 1.63v's. Have had it this way for some time. Runs Prime 7hrs and games 5-6hrs OK (most I have checked it as wife gets reallly mad at heat generated during a multi hour prime run).Quote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
System specs: E6850@3.6GHz, (450x8 and 1800MHz FSB) Asus Maximus Formula SE, 4gigs Dominator 10000 @ 1200MHz (3:4), XFX 8800GTX XXX, Extreme Gamer, Dual Raid 0 150 Raptors, PCP&C 1KW. Vista 64
In a Stacker case with 300mm mobo fan on high and a Zalman CNPS9700 CPU cooler.
Switching to liquid as soon as all my parts get here and I get case mods done for mounting Thermochill pa 120.3 just inside top of case. Although plan to go full liquid after market, The first build will retain the stock fuzzion block.
Hey dogin, what voltage are you using for your 3.6GHz? I have the same CPU and my 24/7 settings is 3.6GHz at 1.37v CPU-Z. I can run 3.8GHZ at 1.4v bios. Still to scared to try 4GHz.
Monitoring tools show 1.33-1.36 applied independant of what is set in the bios (1.4 set in bios) which I don't understand. Have tried 4.0GHz but NB gets too hot on mine (running 4 gigs of ram too, but had to bump v's to 2.4 after mobo adds its .2 overvolt setting). Will try it again when get liquified.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooby
CPU running 56C both cores under load. Orthos run here only to show temps under load. You have to scroll to bottom of thread for the 3.6Ghz result.
http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/intel...ne-so-far.html
Really don't know how good it is running the NB at 56C (same as CPU), as the system does put out some heat, but haven't had any problems??? Yet????
Look like we're on par with this chip. Maybe I'll try my hand at a higher clock since I have fans on the NB and SB heatsinks I just need to dial them up to max and see how the temp get.
I just don't want to go pass 1.5v on CPU voltage or can this chip handle more? I guess the temp will be the deciding factor here...right?
Thanks my friend for you reply.;)
Are people finding lower cpu temps and voltages with or without loadline calibration turned on?
any unmodded passive cooler for sb like the enzotech CNB-S1L that can be fixed up at this mobo?
Hey guys, is there a critical South bridge temp on these boards? I've been running stable for months. Today is the first "hot" day of the year. It hit 89F and is currently 87F. My SB is hitting 50C. (stock cooler) NB is 44C and the 4 cpu cores are all 55C and under @ 100% load. I've had a couple random reboots today and it's the symptom of instability ever. Thoughts???
Just want to say thanks for this thread.
from the beginning, my NB temps have always been over 45 degrees under load and SB at about 50 degrees.
I thought it was the weather (being summer) so i found an old tualatin or AMD cpu fan and jammed it onto the NB sink, this kept the NB temps below 48 degrees or 50 degrees when i O/C.
After reading this thread this morning, i decided to rip the NB/SB heatsink off with the use of the hair dryer.
mucked around for a few hours trying to figure out the best way to remove the hard TM, ended up using a paint scraper...very carefully.... since heat only seemed to bake i on more.
while removing the heatsink, I found the screws for the NB were loose, very loose. with the heatsink off, i saw the SB heatsink only had contact on one corner, so this would also explian the ocassional Sb overtemp warning.
the TM on the NB was very thick.
Even after lot of scrapping, i couldn't completly remove the TM, the copper and IHS still had a dirty look, but without using sand paper, i couldn;t do any better.
I adjusted the heatsinks carfully, making sure the SB was now striaght so ALL the heatsink would touch the SB.
I applied some AS5, mounted the heatsink with the fan and now i find my temps under stock settings and under load is now NB 36 degrees and the SB is 37 degrees.
thats about 10 degrees less than i started with and the AS5 hasnt had time to set in yet AND thats with traces of the old TM sill on the blocks.
So thank you, i cant wait to see if i can gain a better O/C now.