weird then done 2nd mount as swapped cpus and still can't budge the heatsink - no black washer used
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weird then done 2nd mount as swapped cpus and still can't budge the heatsink - no black washer used
did you lap the base of the TRUE 120 or the cpu?
no lapping of cpu or heatsink ...plain stock heatsink and IHS
yep, mine fit very tight until I lapped it. I wouldn't have thought I'd remove that much. Anyway, excellent review. One of the best I've seen.
My new 120 Extreme dosen't budge either on my DFI P35..
No washer either, screws tightned down the whole way.
Hello, sorry to bring this old post up. I think I have some sort of a related problem..
I'm trying to install this heatsink to my mobo, but if I were to tighten all four screws on it, I won't be able to boot even to Bios. I realise that if I just 'put' the heatsink on the processor (which is what i'm doing right now), it's all fine except for the high temperature.
Any ideas what went wrong here?
Check if the metal parts of the back plate isnt touching the motherboard thats the same problem my friend had, or make sure dont over tighten it to the point that the board bends.Quote:
Originally Posted by vassalle
I did a test fit a few hours ago w/ my TRUE 120 extreme on a Abit IP35-E and by the feel of it, the fit is snug enough BUT still movable with a decent amount of force.. would this be ok or it should never move at all ?
So the mod is not needed with the ones shipping now?
It still does, i did an experiment recently removed the coin i placed in and my heatsink is extremely easy to move around a very slight push causes it to even rotate...Quote:
Originally Posted by P_1
but didnt notice any increase in temps at all.. i will put the coin back again the next time i do a whole case cleaning
Just about to install true on a new intel rig. Is this mod still needed?
You'll know if it's too loose.Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazy Chuckster
After reading the discussion between Ace and eva, it seems the deciding factor on whether or not this mod is needed is lapping. A lapped IHS + lapped TRUE base removes enough material to make the mounting provide inefficient force.
I received one last Monday and it is very tight and secure when the screws are tightened fully.
That seems logical, but there have been many people that have had loose mounts even with both un-lapped, myself included. I was able to make the mount tight on mine both before and after lapping both the base and cpu IHS by applying a big metal washer as Mr. Ace-a-Rue advises. However, I still hate the agony of having to center the base, keep it from sliding all over the cpu, and properly tighten the screws when re-mounting it. Sometimes I have to re-mount the sink as some of the screws won't fully tighten.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gogeta
hmm i did the penny mod to my ultra extreme with specs in sig, and i went from 46c idle / 68c load to 42c idle / 63c load. i used a bit more thermal paste than before (more around a half bb this time, where last time it was a smaller dot. should i re-do it with less or is there a better way? 5c isn't a bad drop but maybe there's more
Well, I just installed my Ultra120E on a P35-DS4 and reinserted the mobo tray back in my case (Ultra m998), and after I managed to plug in the darn 2x4 12V power connector (which is in an awkward spot) the HS had moved quite a bit. I am able to move it quite easily. It's not loose to the point of clunking around, but it still seems unacceptable.
I spent some time installing it, making sure I used the right spring loaded screws (the long ones) and it was really tough getting that thing screwed down into the screw holes of the backplate. I finally got all of them tightened (snugged) as far as they would go (alternating diagonally as I did) so I know I did it correctly.
Is this suppose to move after its installed? How much "move" is acceptable?
Due to the inept design of the TRUE mounting bracket, it usually moves. As far as I am concerned, no movement is acceptable.Quote:
Originally Posted by desktop
The problem with the TRUE is that the mounting system is a pile of steaming sh*t. Thermalright won't correct it, you are stuck with it.
I like their heatsinks, always have, but as good as the TRUE is, I am sick of their mounting bracket to the point of purchasing a Noctua heatsink.
It has a superior bracket which bolts to the mobo, then the heatsink bolts to the bracket. With two screws. And it doesn't move:cool:
Soooo ... short of buying another HS even if it moves I'm good to go?
May as well use it since you have it installed. If the movement bothers you, have a look at Ace's washer mod in this thread, it does work:cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by desktop
Im totally idle today and did several remount test ( and wasted a tube of MX2 ) my HS base is lapped but my CPU isnt.. Having a coin or mounting mod on my TRUE does not even help temps by 1c, w/o the mounting mod mine now moves with just a small tap. but what i noticed is that my coolest temp is moving around from Core 0 to Core4 but the max and min temp still remains.
Ok, I've decided to live with the HS as it is. To give myself some peace of mind I ran Prime95. After a half hour temps hung around 46/46/45/42. After an hour temps remained steady at 45/45/43/40. Good? Seems like it.
I had 2 Ultra 120 Extremes. One had the colourful sticker (old) and a newer one which has a grey scale sticker (new). the newer model when i tested with the razer is flat and i can't twist it. Adding a rubber grommet to the base mount did nothing for the temps or mounting at all.
I didnt use any mods when i first mounted my TRUE it was only moving if u push it hard enough.
but my temp seems bad with q6600 at 3.2 running at 44 idle and 69 load
i did try the mod today and i got 42-43 idle and 65 load. still not so happy with the very high temps.
do u guys thing the thermal paste that come with the cooler is any good ?
i dont know what is wrong with my temp but looking at the other people here it seems very very high any help will be great thanks
the thermal paste that comes with the cooler is as good as arctic silver's ceramique but thats about it. something better like mx-1/2 will knock off 3 degs at best. Quads are always hot. Is the cpu voltage too high or its just right already ? try reducing that.
1.45v in bios couldnt get it stable at lower voltages
i did order AS5 today ill try it use it and see if it will help
but even with using 2 washer the screws went till the end.
When I installed mine on my rig a couple weeks ago it did not need any modifications to be on there tightly.
You are truly blessed:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Crazy Chuckster
I got mine installed and it is kinda loose. It won't move by itself but i can move it slightly by hand. I totally missed this thread before too. Do you guys think this is the cause of 2 cores running up to 8C higher(57, 57, 65, 65) than the other 2 at full load? Man, i really don't want to have to take this thing apart. :(
Check & see how flat it is on the bottom. I bet its convex like mine was. Get a razor blade & check. A littling lapping should fix it. :yepp:Quote:
Originally Posted by Smokin_Joe
It has been lapped, i bought it second hand and the previous owner lapped it pretty good. I checked with a razor blade and it looked alright. I just ran prime for a little while and now i'm getting 56,56,61,61. :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by [XC] Hicks121
I have a lapped TRUE and I've removed the IHS from my e4500. I've been using the penny mod for a while, but don't like how this can cause the TRUE to mount slightly off centre. With a naked CPU, it's also not delivering enough pressure and can be twisted easily. To put greater pressure on the CPU, I have purchased some rubber and steel washers to glue together to create the perfect mount. I have also created a shim around the CPU die made of layers of duct tape to make sure there is some support when the TRUE is mounted, as ~1kg of HSF hanging off the side of a vertically mounted motherboard is a recipe for disaster with a naked CPU.
I'm looking forward to trying to squeeze an extra few Mhz out of my CPU for a few pennies worth of cost.
Did this mod, I used a steel washer, it worked great. Temp difference was 4-5c on load.
Also knocked 2c off idle.
:up: for the thread starter.
i'll post pictures of my mod in a couple of days, as soon as i verify it actually works, hehe ;)
I glued two rubber washers to the bottom of the X bracket closer to the center of the bracket. I hope they don't melt. This should apply proper pressure and create enough friction from that pressure so the HS does not move. :)
I just really hope they won't melt, heh. ;)
Does anyone know the melting point for rubber washers?
I had to do this mod to get mine fitting better. Without it, the heatsink would rotate easily. It still rotates after this mod but takes more force to do so. I emailed thermaltake about it and asked if there was another bracket i could buy or something and there reply was it is supposed to move and not to worry about it, there are no other brackets available. Doing this mod has taken around 7c off both load and idle temps so I would say a better fitting mechanism is definately needed. I have had to use 3 washers and it is still possible to rotate the heatsink. The provided one is poor for such an expensive product. Load temps are around 62 max with orthos with setup in the sig - not great by any means but they were 70 plus before this mod.
Mumid, what temperature you get on load with 1.29 vcore? Myself I get 53/56º when stressing with 1.36v. Is it too much?
I will be performing this mod on my TRUE having finished some testing. After lapping its base along with my E3110, load temps are ~63C measured from Everest's sensor after one hour with large FFTs in Prime @ 4GHz(471x8.5) 1.25v. Blech. I'm using a single Sanyo Denki 1011 in a pull config at 12v.
Edit: Like Ace mentioned as his own experience, if I was to place my hand near the RAM slots and bump the heatsink it moves way too much for comfort.
I have a lapped TRUE and Q6600
I use two graphite washers:
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...r/DSCF4242.jpg
I find that getting them just big enough so the X bracket pushed down on the outside of the CPU gives the best and most even temps.. Mine are slighly off centre to even my temps out I get at most +1c difference across the cores at load.. using the washers also means you can allign the heatsink in the middle more easily... found the penny mod would sometimes cause the mounting pressure to be uneven and having washers in the middle resulted in even temps but not as good as having the washers on the edge of the heatsink base
You guys are doing things the hard way why dont you just screw your bracket to some plywood so not to spread out the bracket holes and measure the height of the center and use a plastic hammer or regular hammer with a piece of scrap wood to adjust the bracket until a proper height is found to fit snugly.
Hmm, I don't quite follow you. Would you mind clarifying? Rough MS Paint drawings are highly encouraged. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by jason str
Simple really just carefully hammer down the bracket until the proper height is found.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gogeta
Screwing the bracket down will ensure proper motherboard alignment.
There will be no worries about losing the installed shim and burning up your processor then.
Felt would probably make the best washer alternative since it will be less prone to slip out if the bracket mod seems too complex.
"It's SUPPOSED to move?"Quote:
Originally Posted by Mumid
They also have said that the base is not flat because it was designed to be that way.
Man, as much as I like Thermalright products, I sometimes have to wonder what those guys are smoking.
I had a TRUE which moved freely until I lapped it and modded the stupid swiveling bracket with a steel washer. This made it completely tight, great temps. Actually the temps were great even before I modded it but I don't like my heatsink to spin freely. Not likely that they will ever improve the base flatness and mounting system on the TRUE, but hopefully they will fix this on the TRUE's successor.
If the base was at least convex (a 'bowed' effect like waterblocks) I would understand. But it seems to be inconsistent ..
Two little squares of cardboard = just right.
For my naked e4500 and lapped TRUE, I found that 3 washers created an awesome mount. However, it didn't help me squeeze any further speed out of my CPU.
For an unmodified e7300, I've used 2 washers.
Yes, there are many ways to mod this wonderful heatsink for a tighter fit.Quote:
Originally Posted by roadie
As far as the overclock results, that's more chip dependent, regardless of the cooling method used. But cooler temps. are a good thing, as Martha Stewart would say:p:
Sorry for late reply, I forgot to re-check this thread after posting. Temps I get are 65c with TjMax set to 100c as per intel spec. Your temps sound fine to me. Higher mhz generates more heat though.Quote:
Originally Posted by SergioRoadster
This is the exact reply i got from them:Quote:
Originally Posted by Retro
"Thank for your mail.
This is normal, as long as the screw is well tightened, it is okay and normal for the cooler to have such flexibility to rotate a little.
The 775 bolt Thru-Kit will have the same situation, thus there is no need to change the bracket.
Best regards
*******
Lea-Min Tech., Co., LTd.
(Thermalright, Taiwan)"
I dropped 8C with two washers
Just installed my TRUE a couple days ago. Lapped it and the IHS. Did a test install and it moved. I did not really want washers or Velcro or loose change under the bracket. I simply set the mounting bracket on the backplate on a sturdy table and applied pressure with my hands a couple of times. Thought it might not be tight enough but no problem after the final install as it does not move by giving it a nudge. Seems safer than banging on it with a hammer or hiding car parts or money under the bracket IMHO.
I did this mod a while ago and I didn't notice any temperature difference, weird.
This mount sucks... I cant believe this thing has been on the market so long and they still have :banana::banana::banana::banana:ty mounting HW
I had mine lapped by Crazy PC and I lapped my 8600 myself so I expected some movement but i added a small penny size washer and cant even put a fan on it without it moving.
The box the mounting accessories came has a QC PASS stamp on it dated 6-13-03
I guess ill try a thicker larger diameter washer.. I shouldve done some reading before ordering this :banana::banana::banana::banana:ing thing.
It's a good cooler but you need to do some work before you get good results. IMO that's not acceptable as the cooler is so expensive. You can get coolers with better mounting and performance out of the box.Quote:
Originally Posted by JCGhz
I agree.. but i added a thin neoprene washer glued to a fender washer and its glued to the mounting bracket.. it wont budge now and i was able to put both 110CFM fans for push pull config. I think it was worth it. My Idle temps are in the high 20's and load high 30'sQuote:
Originally Posted by Nazu
Can only recommend this to people with lots of free time.
Maybe they should put "For eXtreme users only" on the box :p:
It may take some work to get the most out of it, but out of the box it gave me about a 5 degree advantage over my 9700. It's not that bad out of the box.
its been painful reading this thread :shakes:
washer mod for the backplate works really well.
also, X plate is better then the multiplate.
http://www.thermalright.com/new_a_pa.../install/2.JPG
QFT, a NH-U12P seems very interesting now, much less messing around.Quote:
Originally Posted by ThugsRook
EDIT: Bonus question, NH-U12P or TRUE for silent computing?
I would say the Noctua. I think they have wider fin spacing, which is better for lower CFM fans.
Im using a 3mm or so i think, how thick of a washer is safe to use?
Instead of the washer mod i suggest getting some grommets and doing the grommet mod instead. The pressure is more evenly distributed this way.
http://www.overclock.net/attachments...d-dsc06898.jpg
http://www.overclock.net/attachments...d-dsc06893.jpg
The cross mount it self has a little screw in the middle that forces pressure in it so having a grommet mount over a washer mod wont make it any better.
I replaced my psu today. In the process I figured that I might as well throw a couple of washers under the cross bracket on my TRUE as Ace sugested. Before I unscrewed the bracket I saw that the heatsink was twisting with little to no force. I cleaned up the MX-2 that I had on there and threw in some AS5 and mounted the TRUE with 2 1/4" washers taped together with electrical tape. It pulled down my temps by 2-3 degrees and hopefully a couple more when the AS5 breaks in. This mod works wonders and is a must for the stock bracket.
Thanks guys.
I also picked up a couple degrees using the washer mod on my TRU, the thing barely rotates at all now.
Tried this mod with 1 then 2 plastic washers, but seems better without washers.
Guys, will there be any problem if I spray my TRUE. I'm planning to spray it to black color something like TRUE black edition. Will it affect the cooling capabilities?? Will there be any drawbacks?
Yes, you will have problems. You do not want to paint your TRUE, the spray paint will act as an insulator and it will increase your temperatures.
Thanks for the advice, sorry for my late reply. Guess there's no way for me to see my TRUE in black other than buy the black TRUE itself.