The trimmers suggested for this mod are way too high I think.. between 3.3 and 3.8v with a 1k trimmer is under 1/2 a turn for me on my antec 400w smartpower.. 5/12v is just as bad, if not worse.
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The trimmers suggested for this mod are way too high I think.. between 3.3 and 3.8v with a 1k trimmer is under 1/2 a turn for me on my antec 400w smartpower.. 5/12v is just as bad, if not worse.
STEvil, what size trimmers do you recommend then?Quote:
Originally posted by STEvil
The trimmers suggested for this mod are way too high I think.. between 3.3 and 3.8v with a 1k trimmer is under 1/2 a turn for me on my antec 400w smartpower.. 5/12v is just as bad, if not worse.
500 Ohm trimmer for 3.3v, 5K Ohm trimmers for the 5v & 12v?
I can make fine adjustments with my 3.3v line. Got one of those 25 turn 1K Ohm trimmer set up on that line.
I'm gonna play with mine later 2nite to see if my 5v & 12v will play my game with me....
Will a 5K Ohm trimmer help me get any higher than 12.2v, 5.2v?
I'm doubting it but what's the harm in asking????
Is there a way to turn off that p.o.s BS overvolt protection? If not turn it off, is there a mod like replacing a resisitor/capacitor (if it is one of those that control the OVP???
Is it possible to say take a OVP (over voltage protection) device from say a dead Enermax 350w or Topower 520w PSU to raise the limits of my 550w TP????
Any comments? Is it do-able??Or am I just dreaming being somewhat a nOOb when it comes to PSU sh*t???
Cheers,
Minnyboy
I would have used a 500k on my 3.3v, 1K for my 5v, and 2k for my 12v.
But whether that would work or not in reality...
To fix the overvolt protection I think we would need to find out what chip controls it then add a resistor to it...
IT WORKED! Thanx Minnyboy...I followed your suggestion about taking all the mods off and resoldering the lines together and it worked. I then did the 5v mod and it worked. i did the 12v mod and it still won't adjust but isnt hurting anything. i did the 3.3v mod and it wouldn;t start up again....i decided to swap out all the parts in the 3.3v mod for brand new wire, vr, resistor, etc. It worked beautifully. I guess i screwed up a resistor or something, weird. I'm sittin pretty at 12.08 (will NOT adjust) 5.2, and 3.5. Thanks everybody for all their help. My only question is why won't the 12v mod work? I've taken it off and reapplied it 3 times now...and it the lowest resistance it will give me is 9.01. it is the exact same pot i used for the 5v mod and that one goes almost to 0, what gives? I'm using radio shack pots, thats probably the problem. I wonder if its a bad one. No matter how much i turn it gives me the lowest 9.01k and the highest 9.78k. I hate radio shack pots...
computerpro3,
what value resistor did you use for the 12v line?
I used a 68Ohm fixed + 10K VR.
Maybe go out & get yourself a few more 10K + 5K VR's to play with?
What I did was buy like 5 of each VR I needed & just used the MM to adjust them all to see what was the best ones to use & just throw the others somewhere (I marked their highest resistance(?) on them though for future use).
That way, I was able to be 100% sure that my mods worked first time round.
Maybe give that a shot?
Cheers,
I also used a 10k vr and 68 ohm fixed. I can't be arsed to remove the psu again from the case at the moment cause I did an hour long wiring job last night, but evntually I will try another 10k resistor. The 68 ohm is good according to the multimeter, but the 10k can't be adjusted lower than 9k ohms at all which is limiting me at 12.08.
edit: I mentioned at hardforums that i had modded my trupower and my pm box was swamped with questions about how i did it so i wrote a guide....I think i got everything right, but would like the experts to make sure (don't wanna fry anybody's pc lol). thanx heres the link
Psu Modding Guide
Would soldering a 10ohm fixed resistor and 1k VR on the 3.3v line void the warranty?
Also does cutting the wires on a PSU void the wires? Like if I were to remove the 6pin molex...completley.
lol yea the warranty would be gone
Awww man...dont know if I should do this until I get my computer working (waiting on an OS)
I'll get the supplies anyways.
I got a few Qs.
I was at Radioshack and they didn't have a 36ohm fixed resistor or 68ohm fixed resistor.
All I could find was a 33ohm fixed resisitor. Will this work for what I want to do or will I need 36ohm?
Also the 10ohm and 33ohm resistor I got are both 1/2 watt with 5% tolerance. Will these do fine?
Lastly, the VRs are both 1.25 watts and 15 turns. Will these suffice?
Where abouts in this wide world are ya? Reason for me asking is that I'll send some to ya by snail mail...Quote:
Originally posted by toolbox
I got a few Qs.
I was at Radioshack and they didn't have a 36ohm fixed resistor or 68ohm fixed resistor.
All I could find was a 33ohm fixed resisitor. Will this work for what I want to do or will I need 36ohm?
Also the 10ohm and 33ohm resistor I got are both 1/2 watt with 5% tolerance. Will these do fine?
Lastly, the VRs are both 1.25 watts and 15 turns. Will these suffice?
Any good electronics shop should have what you're looking for.
I've got meself like 50 x 68Ohm 1% fixed resistors & 80 x 10Ohm 1% fixed resistors lying around... I ordered like 10 of each & the vendor sent me 10 packs....Also got around 5 x 1K 25 turn trimmerss, 5 x 10K 15 turn trimmers, & a lot more 1K 15 turn trimmers as well as some others...
I'm offering to send some to you although it may take while if you're a long way from AUS...
I may be wrong but I think you sould use two of those 33Ohm resistors inline (66 Ohm total) & then solder the VR to them as per the instructions...
I'm not sure what you mean by 1.25w trimmers???? Ask the Radioshack guy (who by the looks of things doesn't know squat about electronics) for a 1K trimmer or whatever ones you're after.
Cos I don't know your whereabouts, I can't really help you much in finding another place that would stock the items you're after...
Remember, I'm willing to help you out & send you the resistors & trimmers to the values you need.
All you gotta do is ask or email me. Look under my profile or send me a PM with an address to send what you need & I'll get them to you ASAP....Normally takes roughly 7-10 days for me to send mail from AUS to US....
Other than that, I can't help you more....
Wow man thats very helpful, but by snailmail it will take a week or so. Might be cheaper and easier to just find a place. I mean, I live in one of the biggest city in the world (L.A.) I think I could find a speciality store :P
Thank you very much for the offer.
But would the parts I just bought would they work?
Toolbox - that should all work fine.
Thanks. So 33ohms will do instead of 36ohms.
What could I use to try to get 68ohms?
I guess I might have to find a speciality store.
**EDIT**
Would you guys mind if I reposted this in another forum and used the images from this thread to help explain. Its a great easy mod and this has a lot of info that can be weeded out from the thread.
I ain't sure if I've broken any rules but I've linked to this forum before...Maybe ask the user who posted the pics. I'm sure they'll approve but it's just courtesy to ask.Quote:
Originally posted by toolbox
Thanks. So 33ohms will do instead of 36ohms.
What could I use to try to get 68ohms?
Would you guys mind if I reposted this in another forum and used the images from this thread to help explain. Its a great easy mod and this has a lot of info that can be weeded out from the thread.
As for the 68Ohm Q....Someone please correct me if I'm wrong but couldn't you solder the 33 Ohm resistors inline to to become a 66 Ohm resistor?
Basically you're just adding trhe values & the outcome is damn close to 68 Ohms....
Yes, you can put two 33's inline to get 66, which would work fine with this mod.
Is there anything wrong with doing just the +3.3v mod and not the +5v and +12v? My Enermax 430w only has sense lines coming out of the +3.3v line, but I'd still like to do this mod to improve Vdimm stabilisation and memory overclocking.
Is the +3.3v mod worthless without the +5 and +12v mods?
Yes you can do the 3.3v mod by itself.Quote:
Originally posted by Gogeta
Is there anything wrong with doing just the +3.3v mod and not the +5v and +12v?
If you got ram that likes volts or your 3.3v line sucks then the 3.3v mod helps heaps.
IMO modding the 12v line does not help in Ocing your CPU (might be wrong with my assumption though).
The 3.3v mod helps more IMO as it allows your ram to run to it's fullest potential (with the right ram, that is).
If ya got BH5/BH6 or maybe even CH5, do the mod. My theory is that even if your CPU doesn't OC as good, having your ram running really tight timings will boost perforamnce (probably know that already).
IMHO do the mod, why not? it's the 3.3v that helps the most for performance if I'm correct...
5v line doesn't improve your performance unless you go sick & mod a 5v line to your VC (iirc someone has done that).
12v line might improve your OC but if you don't have a sense wire to mod then you're stuck with maybe a 5Mhz less OC (again, this is just my opinion).
I gained so much more performance with my BH5's with the 3.3v mod. Couldn't do DDR433 @ 2-5-2-2 at 2.8v (IC7-G), now that my 3.3v is at 3.51v, my BH5 can do DDR510 (2-5-2-2-@3.3v Single Channel). Going Dual Channel, I can do DDR470 (same timings & volts).
Can also use GAT now as well at DDR460 (auto, enhanced, 5 clocks, enabled, enabled), B4 the 3.3 mod, I had to leave it at auto & disable the last 2 DAT settings..
I'm rambling now...
Do the mod, you won't regret it.
Cheers
5v and 12v can each help depending on whether the CPU is driven by the 5v or the 12v rail.
If your board drives the ram with the 5v rail, then the 3.3v mod wont help...
All that aside, these mods finally pushed me over 19k (check sig) :D
Ok, thanks guys. I just got some Mushy PC3500 Lvl2, so I'm definitely going to do this mod. DDR510 at 2-5-2-2!!! Man, I'm hopin and prayin mine will go that high. If that happens, my 2.4b will finally see 3.6GHz (200fsb) :D
I am curious about this mod myself. I want to perform is because my 5V and 12V drop down kind of low after a OC. I wanted to know if someone here would be willing to perform it for me.
If interested PM me PLZ.
THX,
Brian
i'd like to do my Qtecs rails, yet only the 3.3volt has a sense line
Quote:
Originally posted by j2me_tech
hi guys,
i'm just wondering if i can just change the pot on the front panel of a tc550w?
How about bypassing the 3.3v pot altogether? Just a straight wire.Quote:
Originally posted by pc ice
yes you can but it wont do what you think it will.. i know i have tried it.
As all the vr's I have measured (ie 10K/1K), do not go any lower than about 3K/250 ohm. If you removed the 1K pots from the TrueControl's front panel it seems to me that you would get less resistance and more voltage out of it.
Did you try that ice?
well wanted to mod the 3.3v line on my antec trueblue 480. did the mod using an 10ohm resistance and put a vr (10kohm) to ground. well the mod seems not to work for me. voltage doesnt increase in bios and i turn the vr slowly towards 0 ohm and watch voltages in bios. then suddenly pc turns of and i must turn alittle bit in opposite direction?. any one an idea?
You are kicking in the ovp for the psu I am betting.
I wouldnt go by what the bios says for voltage, use a multimeter and plug it in like this:
http://www4.ncsu.edu/~rwbradl2/CSC251/images/New3.3.jpg
The red probe goes into that flat connector with the 5 wires running to it. 3 wires are black, 2 are orange, and one is red. The orange wires will give you 3.3v readings. I wouldnt go over 3.7v.
Sometimes modding the other rails can yield improvements...but only if they are low.Quote:
Originally posted by Minnyboy
Yes you can do the 3.3v mod by itself.
If you got ram that likes volts or your 3.3v line sucks then the 3.3v mod helps heaps.
IMO modding the 12v line does not help in Ocing your CPU (might be wrong with my assumption though).
The 3.3v mod helps more IMO as it allows your ram to run to it's fullest potential (with the right ram, that is).
If ya got BH5/BH6 or maybe even CH5, do the mod. My theory is that even if your CPU doesn't OC as good, having your ram running really tight timings will boost perforamnce (probably know that already).
IMHO do the mod, why not? it's the 3.3v that helps the most for performance if I'm correct...
5v line doesn't improve your performance unless you go sick & mod a 5v line to your VC (iirc someone has done that).
12v line might improve your OC but if you don't have a sense wire to mod then you're stuck with maybe a 5Mhz less OC (again, this is just my opinion).
I gained so much more performance with my BH5's with the 3.3v mod. Couldn't do DDR433 @ 2-5-2-2 at 2.8v (IC7-G), now that my 3.3v is at 3.51v, my BH5 can do DDR510 (2-5-2-2-@3.3v Single Channel). Going Dual Channel, I can do DDR470 (same timings & volts).
Can also use GAT now as well at DDR460 (auto, enhanced, 5 clocks, enabled, enabled), B4 the 3.3 mod, I had to leave it at auto & disable the last 2 DAT settings..
I'm rambling now...
Do the mod, you won't regret it.
Cheers
I would consider the 5v rail as the Radeon cards seem to drain it harshly.
Best thing to do is fire up the machine and put it under a heavy overclock and then put it under load -- loop 3DMark. Then check each rail while she is looping 3DMark. If you get readings that are low, time for the mod.
Its not the case on the 12v and 5v rails that pushing them really high helps, its that making sure they are atleast to spec and stable thats the important thing with these 2 rails.
My 12v and 5v both stay above rated under a heavy OC with 3DMark running, but my 3.3v drains down to about 3.1x. So I'm definitely doing the mod.
My only question is, will I get correct values on my digital multimeter if I measure the 3.3v line without the PSU being connected to my mobo/system?
edit: Also, I have a 10k Ohm 1/2watt resistor and a 1k Ohm 15-turn cermet potentiometer. Are these the right components for the +3.3v mod?
This too...please complete/correct!
http://home.mchsi.com/~246gts/Pics/3vrailmod.jpg
You will know as they will either be way out or spack on where they should be.
please check my previous post stevil :)
Just check the resistance between legs 1 and 2 and 2 and 3. 2 is the common "ground" (not really, but it works best that way if you use 2 as the ground all the time).
You want to start out at max resistance, so you can go to either 1 or 3.
Are you saying I should connect the wire coming from the 10k ohm resistor to either post 1 or 3? And can I connect the ground wire from the pot to a ground on a molex?
yep, just make sure that when u pick leg 1 as the one u solder fixed resistor to, u have your VR set to max resistance (measured with DMM between that leg 1 and middle leg on VR).
same if u decided to go with leg 3 (max resistance between that one and middle)...
and yes, middle leg of VR goes to ground (e.g. black wire on the molex)
I have one question. Is the same mod for the Antec Trueblue 480W?
Yup, only diffrence in TB is few blue leds added inside PSUQuote:
Originally posted by DjTonic
I have one question. Is the same mod for the Antec Trueblue 480W?
I used following resistors:
10ohm fixed + 1k ohm vr for 3.3V rail
30ohm fixed + 10k ohm vr for 5V rail
68ohm fixed + 10k ohm vr for 12V rail
Cool, just wanted to be sure before I blew anything up :DQuote:
Originally posted by bachus_anonym
yep, just make sure that when u pick leg 1 as the one u solder fixed resistor to, u have your VR set to max resistance (measured with DMM between that leg 1 and middle leg on VR).
same if u decided to go with leg 3 (max resistance between that one and middle)...
and yes, middle leg of VR goes to ground (e.g. black wire on the molex)
Thanks for the help guys...doing the mod this afternoon!
Hi guys,
I've been attempting to do this mod tonight, on my TrueBlue 480's 3.3v rail with a 10ohm fixed resistor and a 1K trimmer. I've been checking the voltages all the way through, and I've stopped because I got a little bit worried about a reading.
My wiring looks exactly the same as macci's and xigfrid's diagrams, but after soldering it all together, I decided to check the resistance between the two legs of the VR I was using (past all the wonderfully messy solder), and I got a reading of about 54 ohms, rather than the 1Kohm I was expecting. Now is this normal, or is it an indication that I've soldered something wrong/damaged the VR? The only way I can know for sure is to plug it in and turn it on, but I don't really want to kill this PSU. If this is right, and someone could explain to me why the reading is like that (I assume it's something to do with the fact that I'm not only measuring the resistance between the two legs, but also all around the circuit the other way) I'd be very grateful, but I only have an elementary understanding of electronics.
EDIT - BTW, I'm using a ground wire from the AUX connector, which I harshly chopped off, I don't think that would make any difference but any info I can give is good, right? ;)
Any help would be muchly appreciated :toast:
unsolder one leg and see if its 1K ohms with no wire attached.
If it goes back to 1K then maybe this shows just how overkill a 1K ohm VR is ;)
well i decided to measure volts myseld and not trust the volts showed in bios. and!! the 3,3v mod works fine for me . now 3,40v on the 3,3v rail. :banana: but the 12v mod doesnt seem to work for me. used a 47ohm resistor and a 10k vr. but at a point the fixed resistor gets hot as hell but the line stays at 12,1v all the time.any idea what this could be? thx to all who helped me by now ;)
I'll try that, but firstly, why would it give such a false reading? And secondly, how will I know when the solder is off whether it was my soldering or the circuit that was creating that reading? Basically I need an explanation of where that 54-55 ohms comes from, and someone with a lot of patience to explain it to me. I'm someone who needs to understand why he's doing something and what he's doing before he does it, I probably shouldn't have started this without full understanding, but I thought I knew enough ;)Quote:
Originally posted by STEvil
If it goes back to 1K then maybe this shows just how overkill a 1K ohm VR is ;)
The 54-55 ohms came from one of two points (this is assuming you measured from the correct locations on the 1K VR and have it set correctly).
It either came from some internal resistances which are set to 54-55 ohms to make the 3.3 line 3.3v, or it came from setting the VR incorrectly, or measuring it incorrectly..
If you scroll up to Gogeta's picture then I am assuming you are measuring between pins 1 and 2 or 2 and 3, correct? Pin 2 should be the ground and pin 1 or 3 should be pre-adjusted to 1K ohms before attaching that pin to the sense line.
It is not possible to measure the stand alone resistance of a resistor or potentiometer once it is soldered up as it becomes part of a circut.
You must measure it as Steve said with one wire unsoldered.
OK thanks. Do you think it's worth assuming that I've done it fine and just trying it?Quote:
Originally posted by G H Z
It is not possible to measure the stand alone resistance of a resistor or potentiometer once it is soldered up as it becomes part of a circut.
You must measure it as Steve said with one wire unsoldered.
thanks to u all for their help and patience with me. all rails modded succesfully :banana: :banana: :banana:
I think it may be a good idea if we were to make a clean version of this thread and sticky it..
Also, it could be a good idea to change the instructions to have the user measure the resistance between the ground and sense line before applying the mod (with the PSU unhooked from everything) and then use a VR approximately 100 ohms higher or so than the beginning resistance.. it would allow a much higher precision when adjusting the VR's.
well I wrote that guide on this based exactly on this thread...if you want I or you or a mod could clean it up and add in the tips...I know it would be a lot easier than searching through this entire thread like I did...
Sorry, which guide? Am I missing something here? ;)Quote:
Originally posted by computerpro3
well I wrote that guide on this based exactly on this thread...if you want I or you or a mod could clean it up and add in the tips...I know it would be a lot easier than searching through this entire thread like I did...
Sorry I posted it a few pages back I think...
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=726156
Ah thanks, didn't notice it before. Might help me out, but I reckon I know what I'm doing now, just waiting for some more VRs as this one I broke the pins off in a crappy soldering job seems to be the last 1k I have ;)Quote:
Originally posted by computerpro3
Sorry I posted it a few pages back I think...
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=726156
Don't know if this was already posted, but here is a good newbie guide for PSU rail modding:
http://www.bleedinedge.com/guides/ps...v_mod_pg1.html
If I do the 3.3 mod, this will SLIGHTLY increase my VDDR/VDIMM also right? I want some increase in the VDDR voltage on my motherboard without an actually VDIMM MB mod.
I have an Abit NF7-S 2.0 board.
Thanks guys. I'm off to radio shack.
96
Hmm, I just did the mod on my Mapower 500W PSU, which does have internal pots, but maxes out at 3,46V with the internal pot for the 3,3V rail.
Now with the mod in place I get 3,49V regardless on how I turn the pot. :eek: :confused: :confused:
HELP, please? I need that PSU tomorrow evening in my system with 3,6-3,7V on the 3,3V rail. So if you can help me, please post here.
Big THX in advance!
Greets
Ingmar :)
Edit: Problem solved! I just had to turn the Pot indside the PSU to zero and then turn the added pot in the sense line and it worked like a charm. Running 3,65V right now on the 3,3V rail.:D :toast:
ok, my truecontrol 550w sucks too much for me so im considering a new psu...
It has come to the point where i cant upgrade my cpu (2500+) to a 3000+ cause then the 12v is too low and my pc shuts itself off...
Which PSU should i buy then, preferably one iwht adjustable pots inside?
There's only 3 that fit that category:Quote:
Originally posted by serialkiller
ok, my truecontrol 550w sucks too much for me so im considering a new psu...
It has come to the point where i cant upgrade my cpu (2500+) to a 3000+ cause then the 12v is too low and my pc shuts itself off...
Which PSU should i buy then, preferably one iwht adjustable pots inside?
Fortron
Sparkle ( Made by fortron and cheaper ;) )
And the big daddy of them all: PC Power&Cooling.
All 3 have adjustable pots inside to adjust all 3 rails.
Also if you're considering getting rid of that 550w cheap, pm me ;)
do you happen to know (europe maybe?) where they sell them for a fairly good price or less?
PS. YGPM
Awman, sry. I thought you was in the states. Maybe another member here that's in europe can help you out.
PM replied.
anyone has an idea where to find these PSU's? (worldwide or europe)
I thought a strictly electrical explaination to this vmod with some pics could be something.
Without the mod, the PSU just reads the voltage with no (or very little) voltage drop
from the ATX connector, with reference to ground.
One idea was to just add an inline resistor, and change it's value.
Depending on the sensing circuit
in the PSU, this could work, but most devices (for example DMM (Digital Multi Meter))
has very high internal resistance, which means you need a really high resistance.
The other method is to add a small inline resistor and another varaiable resistor to ground.
Like this schematic:
http://www.nordiccrew.com/crotale/vmod.gif
What we basicly do is splitting the voltage between the Rfix and Rvar. The sensing
circuit is "sensing" the voltage over the Rvar. With a high value of Rvar, most of
the voltage will be over it. If we lower it, the voltage will decrease over Rvar and
increase over Rfix. The sensing circuit thinks the rail is too low and increases it.
This picture is general and the most common way to "fool" the sensing circuit.
As for calculating the "new" voltage, here's how to do it...
http://www.nordiccrew.com/crotale/vmod2.gif
Where U_sense is the voltage the sensor will read and U_real is the real voltage.
(This is a formula for voltage splitting)
But we want to know what kind of real voltages to expect with diffrent resistances.
Let's play with the forumla.
http://www.nordiccrew.com/crotale/vmod3.gif
Here, the U_real is the new voltage, and U_sense is the initial value.
If we use the +3.3V mod for example.
Rfix = 10 ohm
Rvar = 250 ohm (1k VR turned down some)
U_real = ((250 + 10) / 250) * 3.3 = 3.43
If we take the +12V mod:
Rfix = 68 ohm
Rvar = 2500 ohm (10k VR turned down)
U_real = ((2500 + 68) / 2500) * 12 = 12.33V
Remember: ALWAYS measure the VR/Rvar before soldering it into the curcuit.
*looking at dead FX5900* :rolleyes: :mad:
Just tell me if something is unclear, and needs better explaination!
EDIT - Variable Resistor (Rvar) must measure approximately 15 to 20 times the circuit resistance of the sensor wire (when you cut the wire measure what the resistance to each end of the resulting cut is plus the fixed resistor). - STEvil
EDIT - Thanks for the input STEvil :)
thx a lot for this scheme mate
think this will solve a lot of questions already ;)
Hi
I have an Antec 430 TruePower and found a vmod for it somewhere else. BAsically my voltages fluctuate and I think its hampering my stabilty while OC'd.
Basically I Soldered a 1K vr to the 3.3 and 5 v sense line near the ATX plug. I thought it was pretty straight forward vmod.
I rebooted into Bios , then Hardware monitoring. NP
Tried changing resistance in both circuits but got NO change in voltages in BIOS. 3.3 never budged from 3.26v and 5v never moved from 4.97
What am I missing? Will this vmod not work after all?
A 1K VR? Um... i think you're better off using a 10k VR instead. i have a 10k vr on each of my rails and they work perfectly.Quote:
Originally posted by kchip
Hi
I have an Antec 430 TruePower and found a vmod for it somewhere else. BAsically my voltages fluctuate and I think its hampering my stabilty while OC'd.
Basically I Soldered a 1K vr to the 3.3 and 5 v sense line near the ATX plug. I thought it was pretty straight forward vmod.
I rebooted into Bios , then Hardware monitoring. NP
Tried changing resistance in both circuits but got NO change in voltages in BIOS. 3.3 never budged from 3.26v and 5v never moved from 4.97
What am I missing? Will this vmod not work after all?
and a fixed resistor
No fixed resistors here.Quote:
Originally posted by STEvil
and a fixed resistor
OK ,
What I undeerstand the above diagram and the vmod described here.
What fixed resistor should be used for the 3.3 and which for the 5 ?
thx for the help inadvance
Nevermind...found my answer
deleted
Hi, I'm new to this voltmodding so please be gentle. This is the first voltmod I've done except for the pencil trick on my old NF7.
I just modded 3.3, 5 and 12 rails after reading the whole thread (took me a while...)
Done all the mods and works good.
However, I'm not sure what's the highest voltage I should put on the rails.
I'm currently running 3.4, 5.1 and 12.2 (in a 3dMloop on a multimeter). Would it help to raise the rails anymore? These voltages made the vcore fluctuation better.
Also, on the first page, I read something about lowering the AGP voltage to stop the Gfx card overheating? Can someone explain that to me?
Quote:
Originally posted by cpl1234
However, I'm not sure what's the highest voltage I should put on the rails.
I'm currently running 3.4, 5.1 and 12.2 (in a 3dMloop on a multimeter). Would it help to raise the rails anymore? These voltages made the vcore fluctuation better.
Also, on the first page, I read something about lowering the AGP voltage to stop the Gfx card overheating? Can someone explain that to me?
I'm running 3.5-3.6v, 5.4, 12.4v with no problems whatsoever...
I honestly don't think that there'd be a need to raise the 5v or 12v any higher unless you're running a lot of hardware that'd use up all your available molex/floppy connectors...
That's just my opinion...There's a few guys/girls here that run way more than that but that's too overboard imo...
As for the Gfx card overheating....If you got a p.o.s hsf on the Gfx then it'll heat up...But I'm running 1.7v through my 9800pro & 9800XT & when I put my fingers on the card, I do not notice any hotter temps...I know my finger isn't the best temp but I've also measure with a temp probe & it don't make a difference...
It's only when you volt mod your card, that'll make a BIG difference in heat output...
Just my 2 cent & more...
Cheers,
Minnyboy
Ok, thanks, running @ 3.5, 5.4 and 12.4 now... No significant improvement....
Haven't tried to push the hardware more though... will try when I have time tomorrow.
is it possible to only mod one rail?
I did the mod for my 3.3v rail and nothing changed... accually .01 more volts but that's all...
Just a quick question. I went to the local maplin store to get the resistors for the mod. Although, I could find the normal 18-turn pots so I got 3 "Square 22-Turn Cermet Preset Potentiometers" is there anything wrong with that? thanks in advance
link to the pot i got
You're good to go, thats what i used. ;)
Work this vrail MOD with the LC 550Watt or Thermaltake 480Watt?
The sense wire mod should work on any psu that indeed has sense wires.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrki
I need higher volts on 3.3 rail to my UTT ram. I f I mod and raise it to 3.6v or 4.0 volts, would it hurt other equipment? What other equipment uses the 3.3 volt rail? Thanks.