Since it is your parents I'd keep it at 1.8 volts.
Since it is your parents I'd keep it at 1.8 volts.
Well no problems with the parents - they know of course and they are just happy I made good deal with dell and they know they can't use 4 gb of memory.Quote:
Originally Posted by derektm
The thing I'm worried about is if theese oem ram is easier to break than other memory - I could imagine its kinda the slowest value ram that is put aside for dell, not because they are bad, but because dell memory wouldn't run faster than the stock speed.
I know the 1.8 is the default, but has anyone ever broken their memory by e.g. 2.2 volt? I read at toms hardware that they had never broken any of their tested memory by running them 2.2 but I don't know how long they are running theese volt. So I need a safe 24/7 setting - can I really not go higher than the default?
Was reading http://www.vr-zone.com/?i=4111&s=7 . I know it's old but on the last page it says the board has the cold boot problem when running high FSB's. Is that still a problem or is it fixed on the final bios / board?
I've been running this new BX2 since yesterday afternoon and must say I love it, it make the EVGA 680i seem just plain aweful! I haven't tried any overclocking yet, I was just making sure everything was up and stable (which it most definately is!).
I did, however, get a rev 504 board. I have no idea what the differences are, just thought I'd let you all know they are up to that rev now.
Shawn
Maybe they fixed the issues that were stated earlier in the thread if anyone sent them in? Wishful thinking I know. What After market Heatsinks&Fans fit on the BX2 with the capacitors not getting in the way?
got a rev. 503. Mounted a 9500 without any trouble, just cause I had it laying around and am waiting for someone to stock the Amanda cooler.
yeah, im wondering if the issue where you have to manually reset the jumpers each time you OC too high has been fixed w/ a bios update or if this is still an issue
Fishy: He said it was a revision of the board (previously 502 and 503) he got a 504 which means some type of manufacturer editing to the board and thus can't be a bios fix, maybe they will throw out a new bios soon too. Fix everything in one large sweep.
On rev.503 with the latest bios you still have to go thru the jumper fiasco. It's not like regular cmos resets either, first you have to set the jumper, then reboot, reset your settings, turn of the computer, put the jumper back to the normal position, and THEN reboot. It's a real pain, kind of like torture for trying too hard....Quote:
Originally Posted by <><
I wish there was some way to find out what the difference is in each board revision. As far what is fixed, I'm not sure. Like I said, I haven't even started oc'ing at all and probably won't until later next week (riding a sub for work for 5 days!) when I get home. I watercool, so no idea about aircooling hsf's fitting and any associated issues.
If there is something non-oc'ing related you want me to llok at, let me know today and I'll see if I can look into it tonight.
Shawn
There is. Intel releases specification updates to retailers for each new revision of board. I'll see if I can find the link.Quote:
Originally Posted by shawn1998
Edit: It's under specification updates:
http://www.intel.com/design/motherbd...umentation.htm
It does not list 504 yet. I don't believe this is the document I was looking for though. The only difference I see is a BIOS revision between the two, kind of like DFI did with the ultra-d's until AD0.
Edit 2:
Here is the Product Change Notification:
http://intel.pcnalert.com/content/eo...N107033-00.pdf
Quote:
Originally Posted by Intel
Anyone tried a 3rd party cooler on the NB already? Im thinking of getting one but the mounting seems non standard.
I can tell you that my rev 504 came with bios rev 2330, not 2333. Strange. Any thoughts? Not that it is a big deal at all, I flashed to 2333 before I loaded XP on it anyway.
Why does it make the EVGA 680i just plain aweful?? :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by shawn1998
Well, the main reason is because the 680i had so many sata corruption issues, it was pretty much unusable. Newegg actually let me RMA it for a full refund, no restocking fee even. I was even past the 30 day return policy (it was listed as an exchange only, no refund)! I was BSOD'ing every couple of hours when trying to play games. I even went to an external sata controller, but still had issues.
I really wanted to like the 680i, it has tons of features and looks really neat, but it just wasn't stable for me. If you need more info, or think I'm crazy and have no idea what I'm talking about, try and sift through the 400+ post now in the related thread at EVGA:
http://www.evga.com/community/messag...TOPIC_ID=21626
Shawn
Strange. You must have been unlucky with a duff board. Not had any issues with mine and its rock solid at default volts running a 6600@3.6 ( 400x9 ). Apart from the heat I have been very impressed with this board.Quote:
Originally Posted by shawn1998
Yep, I was unlucky, as are many many others. Did you read through that thread? Supposedly EVGA and nVidia are "working" on a fix.
Yes I had a quick read and obviously there is a problem somewhere. I'm running a couple of WD 500GB RE2's and I have had ZERO issues. It sounds like there is a firmware issue with some drives. I know my 1.8 G5 Dual Powermac didn't like WD 400KD and would just lock if you hit the drives with a lot of data. Sounds a similiar problem. Would be interesting to see if its one type/model of driveQuote:
Originally Posted by shawn1998
D9DQW fatbody microns POST ok with the stock SPD on badaxe2?
@Supertim0r
I think you're doing 3.60GHz stable with Tuniq 120 as I do.
We have almost the same setup. X3060 ~= E6600 anyways:toast:
I just wonder what's your CPU idle/load temperatures (core temp 0.94 or Intel TAT). I'm a little bit concered with the cpu temperatures that is around 47C idle and 67~70C Orthos(core temp 0.94 reading) at lowest speed.
Just want to compare with yours before I venture to re-mount the huge tower again:slapass:
heikis : 2x1gig D9DQW work great
GPSeek : 1.375v bios, 3.6ghz -> core temp = 36-37c idle, 63-64c loaded (its currently inside a silent case, 2 noctua case fans + 1 noctua in T120 all controlled by mobo)
note : cpu and t120 are lapped
thanks for your reply. but can you tell me if your sticks are with the same layout and PCB:Quote:
Originally Posted by Supertim0r
http://xs110.xs.to/xs110/06502/d9dqw1.JPG
Some guys tell me that they cant boot at anything lower than CL5 with identical sticks (as on the photo) of D9DQW mem.
OT.
Supertim0r, have you checked your PM's?
yes, replied
What does "lapped" mean?
Basically it means that you sand out the outer surface of the processor and the lower surface of the heatsink for maximum flatness and heat transfer.Quote:
Originally Posted by <><
Stuff that voids warranties :P
With a failed OC try turning off your PSU for up to 20 secs. Sometimes mine will recover that way. If it doesn't yes you are stuck with putting the jumper in the configuration setting, changing what you want then setting it to the normal position.
And I had to say to Super, 1.375v for 3.6 GHz? I am jealous. That is sweet.
I put a ThermalRight HR-05 on last night. It comes with the proper "hook" mounting adapters and can mount the heatsink both parallel to and perpendicular to the PCI slots. However, when mounting parallel it is not quite straight because the mounting "clip" blocks the heatsink tower.Quote:
Originally Posted by tjelaw
There appears to be some kind of bug in BIOS verions "2333". After I finish setting up BIOS, HDD light goes on constantly. I have yet to isolate which setting are required to reproduce this bug, but it happens on both my BadAxe2's.
Quote:
Originally Posted by malficar
So let me get this straight, if you overclock and it fails with the BX2, switch the cmos jumper, boot, make changes, shut down, change cmos jumper again, and it should boot normally/fine?? I looked on my BX2, and there were solder pads for a overclock-debug next to the cmos jumpers, but no pins...
Is this a normal thing for the BX2??? I tried to clear cmos, took battery out, unpugged power supply ect, it still wouldnt reboot....
I'm gonna feel like a @ss if i RMA'd the damn thing for something this friggin easy.... Ugh......:brick:
Yep - been there.Quote:
Originally Posted by bofors
It predates 2333. If you disable the secondary RAID controller (Marvel) then you get the constant HDD activity LED. Go back and enable the secondary RAID controller, and you'll be back to the regular "blinking LED".
The Gunny
See pages 72-73 in the manual. I believe you have the right idea. Pin 1 and 2 are "normal" setting, 2 and 3 are "configure". You should not need to pull the battery.Quote:
Originally Posted by screwtech02
The jumper is near the edge of the right hand side of the board across from the bottom of your last ram slot. (Or near the top of the IDE connector) The pin positions from top to bottom or from the CPU socket down towards the expansion slots would be order, 1, 2 then 3. So the jumper in its highest position is "normal" and in its lowest "configure."
Keep in mind with default settings this mobo will set your ram all the way down to 1.84v.
Note, even in the configure setting my system would not post in dual channel mode with 2 sticks because they were not getting enough voltage. So you may wish to try that when you configure; leave a single stick in the slot closest to the CPU, set it to configure and check your ram voltages. I had to do that with mine when I first got it up and running. I need 2.24v on my ram to run the most basic settings and speed, and 2.36-2.44v for tight timings and high speed.
So in summary :p: Make sure the motherboard is not getting power, ie the power is turned off from the PSU or the PSU is unplugged if no switch is on it. Remove a stick of ram leaving one in the slot closest to the CPU. Set the jumper to configure or the lowest position. Power on and make the changes you wish. Make sure to check your ram voltage is set high enough. Power off. Move the jumper to normal. Make sure the mobo isn't getting power as step one, ie the PSU is off or unplugged, add back your other ram stick(s). Boot and check the BIOS again to be safe. I'll stress again, when adding and removing sticks of ram or moving the jumper, the mobo should not be getting power. I wait ten secs after all LEDs on a board have dimmed before I do anything.
If none of that works try to get your hands on some el-cheapo ram that will run on 1.84v when you must set the system to default and configure. Luckily 1.84v was enough for one of my sticks in single channel.
So are you saying that there is both a overclock / debug jumper and a CMOS clear jumper? How were trying to clear the CMOS before you RMA'd your board? Just by removing the battery?Quote:
Originally Posted by screwtech02
Just curious, I am just in the process of installing and testing my BX2 board and imagine I will have to reset things sooner or later after a failed overclock. :)
i just recieved my bx2 with a 6600 L36B and my teamgroup 667 3-3-3-8. tomorrow i will build the rig on my open bench and see how far i can push the ram (cpu cooler is still on its way) If i go into some difficulties i will post it here so that we understand the problems.. So far im pretty confident with this board, i will see when it will be running.
Still the reset cmos is pretty lame for a "enthusiast" board
Thanks for the details.Quote:
Originally Posted by GunnySpook
Just turn off the PSU (and pull the plug to be extra safe), then switch the BIOS jumper to the bottom two pins (the "config" setting) and reboot. You can then get into the "maintenance" BIOS and adjust your settings.Quote:
Originally Posted by loafer87gt
Just like I said..TORTURE for trying too hard!!!!:p:Quote:
Originally Posted by malficar
Getting my bx2 tomorrow so have yet to play but...
I'm still kinda wondering about the reference frequency in the Memory settings of the BIOS. Is this actually control over the chipset strap?
I plan on testing my memory on all the reference frequencies at default FSB and low ram speeds to see how the internal chipset latency scales the memory performance.
Quote:
Originally Posted by loafer87gt
There is just a cmos jumper on my BX2, but right above it there are solder pads marked for the overclock/debug, sorry for the confusion...
And i DO feel like a @ss now, cause i RMA'd my board for no apparent reason, cept my own inept ability to refer to the damn manual.... Ugh again....:am:
Here's what I would do; make a base OC in the BIOS that has enough voltage for your higher performance ram then save. Perhaps start @ 3.0 GHz. Under windows use the Intel desktop control center to ramp up your OC. Use memset for fine tuning ram settings not available under the control center.Quote:
Originally Posted by shogo_ca
I have purposefully locked up my system a few times with the control center then forced a reset to see how the board behaves. It will beep a few times and not post. Turning off the psu for about 10 secs restores my last BIOS save when I power back up and boot. So everytime you screw up you would just end up @ 3.0GHz or whatever that base OC is that you decide on. I have found that way is far less painful than popping the side off the case, playing with the jumper, and having to pull a stick of my ram due to the voltage dropping to 1.84v.
You can also set three different OCs via the control center you can call up @ a touch of one button. For example; you could jump to 3.0GHz, 3.4GHz or 3.6GHz on a single tap of a preset number.
The desktop control center that will work with the BX2 is version 2.2 and you need the latest BIOS:
http://www.intel.com/design/motherbd...c/download.htm
A detail of it:
http://www.intel.com/design/motherbd.../dcc/index.htm
Latest BIOS and drivers. Select your OS and go:
http://downloadfinder.intel.com/scri...ProductID=2578
This is a very stable mobo and I am starting to like it a lot. My DVD drives behave the best on the BX2 over any other mobo I have tried for whatever the reason. On some mobos they would be very erratic, taking forever to spin up and often spinning down to stop when they should not.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bofors
Good news :) Altough im not quite getting what u mean with the mounting clip, but then again, it shouldnt really matter if you have it mounted some weird angle. As long as its tight on the NB.
Could you make a pic maybe? If its not too much of a hassle.
@ malficar
Are u using the default nb sink or a third party one?
Thanks for the reply :) Does anyone have this mobo and a low multi C2D cpu like E6300/E6400? Is 450Mhz achievable with those cpu's or is this really just for E6600->?Quote:
Originally Posted by Supertim0r
I will get my baxe2 this week and I have my e6400 waiting. i will give my results as soon as possibleQuote:
Originally Posted by Nazu
Default nb sink.Quote:
Originally Posted by nattoNrice
See this: http://www.thermalright.com/a_images...5_cliptype.pdfQuote:
Originally Posted by tjelaw
As suggested in Pic.2 the "M" clip hits the heatsink at certain angles preventing it from being mounted completely parallel to the PCI slots.
I'll receive my Bad Axe 2 tomorrow. I ordered one because my Ebay fatbody memory won't boot in most common 965P motherboards such as the Asus P5B and the Gigabyte DS4.
Now i'm doubting to return the motherboard and buy a Gigabyte DS4, but on the other hand I saw the 975X is better performing clock to clock above 400Mhz FSB, but has a lower max clock. I like also the 2.8Vdimm option and the board layout/cooling from the Bad Axe 2. But now comes the main reason to be doubting.. the DS4 is €146 w/o shipping costs, the BX2 costed me €213 w/o shipping costs. Are the benefits of the BX2 great enough to justify the €67 (around $100) pricegap? To get a DS4 do cost me some effort and money but its then still €50 cheaper. (pay shipping costs to send the BX2 back and to get the DS4 over here).
Just to let you BX2 owners know, Intel released new NIC drivers, version 11.2 dated 12/6. Link:
http://downloadfinder.intel.com/scri...ition&lang=eng
Shawn
Thx (><)Quote:
Originally Posted by malficar
TigerDirect has BadAxe2's for $200 now: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...3&Sku=I69-2145
This is what I am planning on doing with my build. I was thinking of setting things up at 1.5 voltage and 11 X multiplier and then ramp up the FSB speeds with the IDCC. One thing I am kinda confused about is why your machine would not post after a failed overclock using the Desktop Control Center. Doesn't it apply your tweaked clock speed adjustments upon booting into windows rather than at post?Quote:
Originally Posted by malficar
Also, just out of curiousity, what in your opinion is the max safe voltage for a Kentsfield processor. Is the max voltage spec for the Core 2 Quadros the same as the regular Core 2 Duo's? (1.55V) I have a Tuniq Tower heatsink that I am going to use with the chip.
thanks for the infoQuote:
Originally Posted by malficar
I'm thinking of replacing my D975XBX with this new one
Did everyone's BX2 boot up when first loading all your hardware or did you have to set volts etc for things to be registered?
Booted up very first time. Very, very nice board....:)
Thanks, was beginning to get a bit scared I might have to jumper a few times to get my system recognized and boot up even before I try an OC
Same here, booted the first time without issue. This is one nice board!
Shawn
Mine booted right up as well with super talent 800hmz ram. I then set the timings and voltage manually for the ram and updated the bios. Installed the OS with no issues at all and am testing default stability until my o/c this weekend. Hopefully i will be able to figure out how to o/c this thing because im a noob at o/c'ng. :D Any help from you experts on the settings i need for an e6600 would be greatly appreciated.
Just put everything together last night. I made a night out of it.
Lapped my CPU and heatsink (zalman 9500AT) and made myself up a switch for the jumper for the BIOS configuration mode. Turns out that a standard 3pin fan header is the perfect dimensions to fit on the jumper pins so I just wired my switch to that and didn't have to modify the board. There are pads for a clear CMOS Jumper, but you would have to set in pins or wires yourself and i'm not that daring yet.
Personally i think i like the BIOS configuration jumper. Might take a bit longer, and not be as elegant as what Asus or some of the other board makers have come up with for a failed overclock, but it gets the job done.
anywho I got home at 5:00 and got everything in and running BIOS at 11:00. Had to work at 6:00AM so no fun with it yet.
oh, and it booted perfectly with my OCZ Ti alpha PC2-8000
Sounds like we had the same night. Got my parts yesterday afternoon and got home from work at 4:30. By 11:00 i had the machine built and XP installed. No time for games testing or any stability testing since i have to wake up for work at 5:00am...Long day.
yeah, i want to go home and install windows. I brought the manual to work as reading material.
exact same thing for me eheh.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blauhung
i will be using it tonight!
Just finished mine, all powered up first time, loaded Win xp perfectly. Changed Mem volt to 2.20 and updated bios to 2330, all without a hitch.
Do you mean updated to bios 2333? If not, bios 2333 is the newest one.
Hye guys, I am just hooking up my BX2 board and had a questions regarding the 4 pin power connector that was mentioned earlier on page 7. I am using a 8800GTX in the board, and this video card already requires a supplemental power connector. Should I supply power to the 4 pin connector on the motherboard in addition to the supplemental power connector on my GF card?
Thanks in advance for any info.
Anyone know of certain ram types that may not work? Was reading a newegg review which stated super talent won't work on the BX1, wondering if it works with the BX2, same with buffalo firestix. I am looking into these rams for my build and hope to buy everything within a week or so.
I look at it this way. If there is a power connector, then it was meant to have something plugged into it. I have only one 8800gtx and plugged in a molex connector to it. Everything works perfectly. I honestly wouldn't think of running the board without it being used!
Thanks for the answer Shawn. Just for clarification, you have both the supplemental 6 pin power connector connected to your video card, and the four pin power connecter connected to your motherboard?
Can't wait to get everything hooked up; I just have to wait for my memory to arrive tommorow AM.
It says in the manual that if you are using a card that draws 75watts or more that the 4 pin molex should be hooked up or it could cause damage to the motherboard and or video card.Quote:
Originally Posted by loafer87gt
BTW
You can leave all the power management functions on in the BIOS and effectively "toggle" them by switching your power profile under windows. The options are under Power Option Properties, and on the Power Schemes tab. If you set "Always on" you will immediately go to your default multi. If you set "Minimal power management" your system will idle @ a 6x multi and shift to your default underload.
So using my system as an example and those options; you could let it idle @ 2.4GHz and switch to 3.6GHz underload or force it up to 3.6GHz if you so choose at any time for whatever the reason.
Thanks again for the help guys, this forum is an invaluable resource. :toast:
Anyone tried Perc 4e/DC aka LSI 320-2E with XBX2?
The card works under XP and win2k3, but leaving a device related to the card unassigned because 'not enough resources'. The device is called "Intel PCI Express to PCI bridge -B 0332".
Under Vista RC2 however, it doesn't work at all, Vista can't find the card during installation.
I believe this is a compatibility issue since the card works perfectly fine on my old XBX with either xp, win2k3 or vista.
Edit:
I'm talking about a PCI-E SCSI 320 Raid controller, I have 2x 73GB MAX on Raid 0 attached to it.
This was with 6600, 8800gtx.
Yes! 1.84v is enough for hz to boot with both sticks in dual channel!
So happy (><)
:toast:Quote:
Originally Posted by nattoNrice
G. Skill is good stuff. I used them in my last rig. I went Mushkin this time for variety.
Got BX2 yesterday, and it is already driving me nuts.
Can't reach 3.6 stable on E6600.
Vcore: 1.4625
Power Slope: ON
VFSB: 1.375
VMCH: 1.575
Patriot mem. DDR2-1000@800 4-4-4-12 2.2v 1:1
With less than 1.5 on vcore, 3dmark03 crashes.
With 1.5+ Pi32mb and 3dmark03 is ok.
It can't handle Orthos for more than 30 minutes.
Anyone can give me an advice? :(
Edit: OCZ GXS700W & Scythe Ninja+ with 70CFM fan, room temp@ 22o
Quote:
Originally Posted by JZX100
Try this:
400fsb
1.35 vfsb
1.65 vmch
1.5 vcore
enhanced power slope -enable
memory set at 533
vdim 2.2
That ought to work...
Recieved my bad axe 2 today. Instant boot out of the box (with the ebay d9 ram :p: ). Nice board, but didn't have time to oc it allready.
also, try stock vfsb and vmch
have you tried the cpu with other mobo already ? (not all cpu reach 3.6+)
got mine up and running at stock speed for now, windows install was really easy, tried first boot at 300x9 with 1.325v but didnt boot so i had the pleasure to use the cmos jumper, i dont hate it i find that it is good. Although do we really have to unplug power cable to change jumper position?
While running i wanted to put one of my panaflow fan on top of the ram to cool them down but unfortunatly my finger slept into the fan and i saw blood spilled all over the motherboard. Well not aloooot but still some spill and i was like: what the heck!, i powered down the board, checked if the board was allright. Then i looked at my finger and it was pretty messy. Man normally you can stop a fan with your finger it doesnt hurt, well for those with some Panaflow high speed fans, just make sure you dont put your finger in the fan.
I cleaned the board with some kleenex to wipe out the blood and powered up again, everything was fine. I never tought i could hurt myself while building a computer ahah.
I will start my bench and overclock tonight for the whole weekend. i will try to show my results.
Carefull dude, with some of these fans you can take the end of your finger off:eek:
Imagine what would happen if you put your finger in a 80mm Delta EHE :D
well my finger was not chopped off but a good chunk of skin was peeled off the bone haha. It sucks to write on a keyboard and work with a padded finger!Quote:
Originally Posted by palese
its the first time i use "high performance" fans, i just hope i will able to put the rpm down on these fans because right now its crazy ahha
Running at stock speed with blood on the motherboard is not really Xtreme ahah
I'm pretty sure that this is only if you are pulling 75 watts or more directly through the PCIe slot. In the case of any card that has supplemental power directly from the power supply through the 6pin PCIe line, most if not all of the power to the board is supplied that way. I have my 7950GX2 running perfectly without the optional extra board power.Quote:
Originally Posted by malachi1313
Did you use the clear CMOS jumper that has no pins soldered on it? or the CMOS config jumper? If you are using the CMOS config one there is no need to remove power from the board, just shut it down, switch the jumper, turn it back on.Quote:
Originally Posted by shogo_ca
Well i didnt know there was two kind of jumper. the one i used is a normal jumper with a long tip so it is easyer to move, same kind of jumper as a hard drive or a cd rom or any jumper you normally find on a board... I used the one that you have to boot in "config" position then change your settings and then save and reboot and a message at POST says Replace the jumper on normal mode.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blauhung
What is the use of the other jumper?
Ive had my bad axe 2 for about a week now and something has me a bit concerned. Its been making a constant, very rapid "clicking" sound. Its been doing it since I set it up but I thought it was something else making the sound. Ive tried unplugging all the fans but I still hear it. I replaced both harddrives, the psu, and the video card but I still hear it. The only thing I haven't changed is the ram and the cpu. Im 99.9% sure its coming from the mobo. My cpu is an e6600 and Im using Corsair XMS2ram. Has anyone else heard this from their bad axe 2's, or heard of a mobo clicking in general?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blauhung
Someone, somwhere, needs to put this fact UP IN BRIGHT LIGHTS, for all to see, i RMA'd my board for this reason.... Ugh..... (But thats what i get for having ASUS stuff before)....:brick:
I've found something important in the manual:
I don't have a clue why, but it seems when you're oc-ing, you must not use the 2x2 to 4x4 adapter. (4-pin P4 to 8-pin??)Quote:
Originally Posted by manual page 70
Well the normal option on most other motherboards is a "clear" cmos jumper. Your BIOS settings and things such as system time (not the actual BIOS) are stored in some non-volatile memory on the BIOS chip (i think that's where it ends up). This memory must always have power to it or it looses the info stored in it. on many boards, if you fail an overclock the settings that you have wont even allow you to boot to BIOS to change to more stable parameters. To clear this out, you have to remove the boards battery and then move the jumper that would normally complete the circuit from the memory to the battery, to short out the path and dissipate the charge, clearing the memory allowing you to boot to BIOS from default settings.Quote:
Originally Posted by shogo_ca
With this board, intel chose to allow you to hold on to all your settings stored in the CMOS and just boot directly to a "config" mode that allows you to change settings and then reboot again with the new settings. This jumper is more of a switch that the system checks during boot to see where to pull its settings from. Since it is only a switch that is only checked during boot, you can probably even switch it while power is on the board, but I'll have to check that out.
The explanation is the following: Intel wants to play it save. The Extreme Edition CPUs, or overclocked/overvolted CPUs normally need a bit more current than the stock CPUs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Comp-Freak
Now the possible amount of current is limited by the offered current paths. And logically more(twice the amount of) current can be drawn through 8 cables (4x 12v and 4x ground) compared to only 4. That's it.
Now depending on the pcb layout (trace thickness etc.) and the PSU used, you could either get scorched traces or molten PSU cable isolation in a worst case scenario. That doesn't mean that it'll happen with any combination, but it possibly could. "Just be warned", that must've been Intel's intention, IMHO.
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by Supertim0r
I'm in the middle of Ocing the first of 3 XBX2s and have got a few observations. First, I spent 2 days trying to replicate the results posted in this thread without success, mostly couldn't even POST. Then the obvious thought occurred to me: the large variations in cpus, mobos, memory, etc. mean that trying to replicate other results without going through the process myself was NOT the right thing to do.
So I went back to stock everything, then set my DDR2-800 back to 533 to get a 1:1 ratio and set the vdimm to 2.08 since that's very safe for the OCZ. With those settings, I was able to get to 356 FSB (3.2Ghz CPU) on the E6600 and I'll be continuing on tomorrow.
So things I learned so far...
Don't look for cookie cutter settings. Go through the process from stock.
Don't automatically raise the cpu, mch and fsb voltages because you THINK you need to. Do it when you HAVE to. I was actually less stable at higher voltages.
I got more consistent results by powering off at the PSU between settings changes. Not exactly sure why but its almost like the settings aren't all taking effect after a soft reset or a soft power cycle.
Keep good records. I've got a small notebook that I'm keeping all my notes in.
Develop a methodology. I'm going in 0.5 Ghz cpu freq increments. As long as Orthos is stable for 10 minutes, I keep going and note the setting as a candidate. When I'm stable for < 10 minutes, I adjust one of the voltages until I'm stable for 10 minutes, then keep going on the fsb. When I've got a good list of candidates, I'll go backwards from the highest one and run Orthos for an hour. The ones that pass get the real torture test.
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Intel Bad Axe 2 r 503, bios 2333
E6600 retail SL9SB L630A833
2x 1024mb OCZ PC2-6400 Platinum, v2.2
Toughpower 750 PSU
p72 in the manual seems to strongly suggest the motherboard should not be getting power when you move the jumper, ie the "Unplugging the PSU" bit. It mentions, "May cause unreliable operation." No other jumper is mentioned on that page save the configuration jumper. I use the switch located on my PSU to kill the current to my mobo. I was waiting 10 seconds after the mobo led dimmed before moving the jumper.
I changed to using the Intel desktop control center software to test OCs so I don't need to worry with the jumper anymore. If I make a mistake and freeze the system or get a no post situation, I turn off the PSU for about tens secs then power back up and this restores my last good BIOS setting.
hi guys
i've just ordered my new bad axe2, i will reiceve it within 21th december:slobber:
is there any chance they will have a bios that lets you adjust multiplier down
Well, the 2333 bios already have a switch for it, but it's inactive. I suppose in the future they will release a bios with the option enabled, otherwise they would never added the option? Or does it only work with ES cpu's?
Btw, I've tried to boot with only 4 pin P4 connector, instead of the 4 to 8 pin adapter, but it doesn't boot and only give 2 red leds for CPU and Vreg. Other people also experiencing this?
wait wait, i don't understandQuote:
Originally Posted by Comp-Freak
this mb have the alimentation with 8 pin and if i have a power supply with only 4 pin i can't use the mb? it is impossible:eek:
Well, the manual states you shouldn't use the 4 to 8 pin adapter. But without adapter (only 4 pin connected) my board won't boot. I suppose oc-ing with adapter wouldn't be a problem. So you can use your board with 4 to 8 pin adapter ;)
ok thanks, i hope that the oc is the same with 8 or 4 pinQuote:
Originally Posted by Comp-Freak
This is wishful thinking my friend. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by diablos
I already explained why.
BUT, you have good chances that you don't even reach the point where the current paths would be the limiting factor. :D So, it could be of no importance for most users.
The only thing to keep in mind is: There sure is a reason why the Intel engineers insisted to have this "warning" printed into the manual. And I guess they know what they are doing.
What? Where does it say this?Quote:
Originally Posted by Comp-Freak
that's whyQuote:
Originally Posted by Comp-Freak
Page 70 of the paper manual that comes with the board. Can't remember seeing it in the online pdf manual btw, but I currently don't have adobe reader on this pc to check it.