Hmm, I'd love to get me a good roach stompin. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
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Hmm, I'd love to get me a good roach stompin. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
Yeha, I am having a hard time visualizing what your describing also...The T3 comes with compression fittings and I use them on mine with no issue so at least in a normal configuration they fit. If you post some images of your install we can have a look.Quote:
Originally Posted by genec57
Like I said...^^^ a gentleman with some class. I did take most of your comments to task as well. We have investigated the side notch and modifying the molds and it is just to extensive a change, would cost less to start over so for now it will just be sans the notch. I AM adding several cases to my testing collection though to prevent these kinds of things in the future...and keeping them in a stock configuration (not tossing the ez mount rails etc)Quote:
Originally Posted by coolmiester
It seems you and I are the only fans of a true yellow lol. I will see what I can do.Quote:
Originally Posted by surfhick
We talked about drunken campfire (DB is on a camping trip somewhere in the wilds of Oregon) posts from your iphone DB remember? :DQuote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
Coolmeister the sad thing is those fewls at realpinkpanty forums think you back up their blind hatefest. I had many people telling me I was just soiling myself by posting over there. All it takes is a quick google search and our names are found on that den of loser forum regardless if we engaged in their random and not so random acts af gheytardness or not.
Well their names are over here as well that they cannot erase. So it's kinda the same situation either way. Just don't go fighting hate with hate. It will go nowhere fast and nobody wins and it brings down both forums. Just forget they exist and let the mods handle the new accounts they log in under with their trolling buddies. It serves nothing to keep giving their hate existence. People like that operate by you taking the bait so they can drag you down to their level and beat you with experience. Simply flick the bait away!
Boxgods,
Can't get to a camera right now. The four inlet/outlet fittings adjacent to the pump - no problem. Across from the pump are the two ports meant for fluid charge/drainage.
It is these two that I refer to. I have my TIII configured so that it is on its side. On the pump side both outlets are used and one of the inlets. On the other side I am using one port as an inlet and the other as a drain. In both cases in order to use a compression fitting I had to ream out the side panels to make space.
I have an extra port on what is now the top for adding fluid.
Am I clear now, I hope? :).
Totally right. It is just like they teach lifeguards, if the drowning victim is pulling you under take a deep breath and submerge, when they let go just swim away. It would be great if you could save everyone, but some days you just have to save yourself by not being dragged under.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sadasius
OK, so your not using the T3 as a bay mounted pump/reservoir it sounds like right? Instead you have it inside your case somewhere and are using one of what would normally be the front fill/drain ports as an inlet.Quote:
Originally Posted by genec57
I actually have run multiple T3's connected together via the front ports with barbs, I don't think compression fittings would fit the included 3/8" polycarbonate ones might just make it but I doubt it. Although I love to see my parts being modded in this particular case I think you might have been better off waiting for the top loader version coming out shortly as it has the same parallel loop capabilities as the T3 but is designed for internal mounting like your doing.
Since you already have a T3 and are not afraid to bust out the dremel you might consider that Cyber Druid has had great luck cutting the face of the T3 off and bonding it to different types of reservoirs, including his latest 5 bay waterfall reservoir. Keeping in mind that if you pooch the mod it's on you, here is how I would do it.
Assuming you don't have access to a laser or table saw, I would use 1" blue painters tape on the BODY side of my cut line to mark where I wanted to cut. Use the dremel (safety glasses) with a reinforced cutoff wheel and cut close to the edge of the tape (but not right on it). When you have the front face cut completely off take a sheet of 320 wet/dry sand paper on a flat surface (Formica counter, sheet of glass etc) and apply even pressure and sand to your tape mark to get it nicely even and flat.
Then take the faceless T3 you have prepped as above and set it on your acrylic sheet and trace a cut line for the new face your making. Cut it out the same way as above and then drill and tap where you want your fitting/s.
Bond the new face onto the T3 with weld-on or your preferred acrylic glue.
Sounds a lot more complicated when reading then when doing provided your comfortable with tools. I may do a tutorial on the process with pictures if anyone is interested. I can also cut the new acrylic face on the laser and tap the G1/4 holes for anyone wanting to do the mod I suppose. It wont be long till your seeing modders doing this mod but instead of a small face plate they are gluing the T3 body right to top windows, front windows, internal acrylic chassis components etc.
That channel you had to dremel out was designed as an overflow basin for refilling. You could of used some G1/4 extenders or antitwist adapters though and probably saved the cutting.Quote:
Originally Posted by genec57
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/sidewinderco..._2066_35061614
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/sidewinderco..._2066_13751134
Seems Primochill has some stock now for those still looking.
Does that mean there's going to be news of a fix for the 'T3-sits-too-far-out-front-of-case' with certain Antec and Silverstone cases? :)Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
Also, I've noticed my T3 has a couple of bubbles from the casting process, on the bottom lip section of the front. They look like 2 little white balls inside the acrylic, only about 1mm in width but still clearly visible. Could you advise whether it's worth RMAing for this, or is it a common issue?
Not a common issue that I have seen. Just open a ticket with Primochill support and they should get you taken care of.
Think that is with all cases. I had the same issue with my Cosmos. A few new holes and it all set though.Quote:
Originally Posted by karbonkid
The problem with hole mounting depth stems from the fact that the particulars of chassis design for the ATX specification and all the revisions that deal with optical drive mounting are very hard to find and most case companies address this by making the holes those elongated type that allow for adjustment. Anyone that has been building machines for a few years has seen optical drives that fit fine in one brand/model and need a little time with a file in another brand/model. I know for a fact that the T3 hits those front elongated holes dead center in Lian-Li cases and slightly forward of dead center in the early Chenbro models for example. It may sound like an excuse but the reality is that if we mooved the mounting location to fit one very specific case then some other design would have issues.
If you DO think I am making an excuse the specifications for the ATX form factor can be found at the link bellow:
http://www.formfactors.org/developer...s%5Catx2_2.pdf
If your case uses the single hole type mounting and does not have the elongated type that allows for adjustment this is easily remedied with a $3 file in about 5 minutes and is a simple task anyone can do.
My case uses slot-in rails. I already drilled the current holes out bigger to get the screws to fit, and I'm not sure there's a recess far enough back on the rail to drill a new hole and have the screw sit flush so the rail actually slides in.Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
Also, never had any problems with CD drives, hot-swap HDD arrays or even an SCSI film scanner (in this case and many others). The XSPC bayres that used the bottom set of holes instead of the top got it right in the other direction. Not calling you a liar or anything, just sayin' :shrug:
IMO, if you moved the hole about 2 'steps' towards the front, it should work for most people.. Obviously I don't have as much experience as you but if you say it currently fits dead-centre or there-abouts there on the cases you have tried, no harm moving it nearer the front end to make it fit almost everyone?
As I said before, it's not a problem for me, actually works better in fact. If I change my mind I can always use bits of acrylic to bypass the rail system. Not suggesting you change it now, I know that's probably nigh-on-impossible for the moment, but just to bear it in mind for less mechanically-minded folks...
EDIT: Had a look at the ATX spec., doesn't give any specifics as to drive bays (which makes sense as standardized 5.25" bays existed long, long before ATX..). Wikipedia says this info. is referred to in the EIA-741 spec., which I can't get access to. Anyway, like I said before, please don't take this the wrong way - I'm not meaning to call you a liar or discredit you or your product. I have said before and will say again that I think the T3 is a great product. I just think that £50 is just a whole new price league for a res, and for that price a lot of people will expect everything just to fall into place, with no hassle.
No worries =)Quote:
Originally Posted by karbonkid
The problem was sort of compounded also because in order to keep the T3 from going way too deep into the case and possibly conflicting with today's longer video cards I only went back enough to hit the first set of holes. Most users would be happy if the optical drive they are installing hits either the front or the back set, or the top or bottom set which is a luxury I could not build into the T3, again to keep it short enough with a pump on the back of it.
Ah well, live and learn is my motto for the day =)
Well at least you got a lot of insight for the DDC version and maybe a D5 2.0 sometime down the road.
O, btw, I'm still waiting for my faceplate. :p:
Order was placed and paid for on Wednesday the 19th and I was told manufacturing and shipping was about two weeks--so figure three to be safe and to allow some time to track down the double stick mounting and boxes...which puts them in resellers hands about...call it the end of the first week of September or so.Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
That of course is a best guess so no finger pointing if it is longer.
You really think this will stop us. :p: :DQuote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
It's always your fault Geno. ;)
Thanks though. Looking forward to seeing them at the stores. :yepp:
Hey Boxgods,
Any fluid that I can use in the T3 that prevents Galvonic corrosion due to mixed metals?
PC Ice is suppose to be ok for it, and they say it has non corrosive properties. What is causing corrosion in your loop?Quote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
I am wanting to fire backup my chiller which has aluminium in it. Since I would want it to cool my entire loop it would need to feed the T3. I haven't completely decided yet, so I may just cool my cpu with it, but I was trying to keep it simple.
I realize that a lot of guys will not agree with the following and I SERIOUSLY do not want to start a flame fest, but here goes.
As I understand it from my time messing with boats, electro plating, and plumbing houses you need three things for galvanic corrosion to take place.
1. Two dissimilar metals
2. An electrolyte (water with any type of salt in it)
3. A metal path between the dissimilar metals
There are a lot of other factors that determine how fast corrosion will happen and which metal will be the anode and which will be the cathode such as nobility, ratio of anode to cathode, heat, and the salt content of the water.
The key there is that you need the three items mentioned above. When a plumber is going to connect iron/steel pipe to copper in your home he will run a few feet of plastic pipe between the two to break the electrical contact between the 2 different metals.
So unless your aluminum chiller is in direct contact with your copper water blocks your lacking the third item on the list because the tubing we use is not conductive obviously.
Your protected another way by using a non conductive fluid (and yes I believe PC Ice is non conductive). As long as it is in a sealed loop it will not gather salts from airborne dusts and humidity.
A while back I posted some pictures of various machined aluminum reservoirs I had made and like 5 people posted instantly...you can't do that or the world will ERODE and angels will loose their wings. I have a 5 year old machine that has a copper water block and an aluminum reservoir that are fine--and I run distilled water in the loop.
If you still have doubts...take a look inside your D5 one of these days and have a guess what those metal parts are...300 series stainless steel which is about 10 spaces further down the nobility list then good old copper...
**EDIT** There IS one exception to be aware of. Because we need a circuit for galvanic corrosion to happen, if you were to bolt your aluminum chiller directly to your case, and a copper water block also was in direct contact with your case you COULD conceivable complete the circuit. Your motherboard is of course not in electrical contact with the case (or you would have a short to ground which would suck) and most aluminum cases are anodized...and the area of aluminum compared to copper would be HUGE so even if you managed to get contact (which would be really really hard to do) the effect would be minimal...like years to see a difference above normal corrosion rates.
BoxGods. Stop right there. The level of corrosion that can destroy a block will probably be invisible on a boat. Now, I'm posting to prevent this from turning into another 20 page epic about corrosion. Here's the bottom line. Galvanic corrision WILL happen in a mixed AL/Cu loop. At what pace it happens is determined by the additives and some other factors such as temperature etc etc etc. BUT... it WILL happen. Sometimes several orders of magnitude less than if you were careless. But it WILL happen. There is no solution to galvanic corrosion on earth that will prevent it 100%. None! Its scientifically impossible because there will always be SOME ions that will not get touched by additives. Even if you apply a reverse voltage, there still be some corrosion. It will be small.... but it will happen.Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
Your example of 300 series steel is a bad example. It is actually a very noble alloy. Far more than mild steel.
If all vendors used unobtainium, corrosion would not be an issue. than again, we would all have liquid helium temps 24/7 if that were the case.
Like I said...some people are going to freak out lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by [XC] riptide
And my example of the 300 series is an EXCELLENT example. The fact that it IS a very noble metal is the point. The further the two metals are apart the more dramatic the effect. The 300 series stainless is much more noble then the copper in your blocks so the copper would be the anode and corrode rapidly...if there were a metal to metal contact.
You guys can read it for yourselves.
http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/For...-corrosion.htm
http://www.corrosionist.com/Galvanic_Corrosion.htm
http://www.cathodicprotection101.com/
There are tons of links online that explain it in detail. The facts are that there MUST be an electrical connection.
Yes there WILL be some corrosion in ALL systems--the difference we are discussing is the difference between a few months and 10 years though...far beyond normal service life on any water cooling component.
:shrug: Sorry buddy... but you don't quite understand it. If the Steel is a noble alloy it means very little corrosion of it, and ANY other metal in the loop. .... the very reason why it IS used in pumps. To corrode it has to be an active metal. Mixing an inactive metal (like your hard steel example) is like mixing plastic with water and copper. ie no effect. Your statement of the farther they are apart = more corrosion is not entirely true. They have to be both active metals.Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
The electrical conductivity can and will be provided by the water in the absence of anything else. The current that passes through the water to have the effect of corrosion is so small that it will happen.
You should try a Zalman reserator with a copper block and tell me there is no corrosion. (I had one with a copper, low restriction GPU block)... the residue settled down the bottom of the reserator itself.