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what did you use to reapply IHS? i am thinking about reapplying mine cause i'm currently at 36° w/ 7700Cu - AS5 and 1.19v and that's way toooo much i think..
PS anyone knows how to make the 7700Cu "hold" tighter on the cpu? i screwed at the max but it's still moving..
Silicone adhesive sealant to glue it back on. Smells really terrible. To physically apply the pressure I used the stock AMD heatsink that was modded for naked cores (bracket was filed down) this allowed me to reattach the IHS with higher pressure/force.
you could prolly go to a hardware store and buy some washers/spacers to get a tighter fit
here another realy bad example:
http://www.2wire.ch/ripping/bg/octs/cpu_ohne_ihs2.jpg
not mine! :D
CPU dead. R.I.P.
holy :banana::banana::banana::banana:!!!
i did nick one of the lil resistors on accident :( but my venice runs about 3c cooler idle(30c), i'll prime 'er in a few and report back in
well, load is the same temp (44c) but with 0.032 more v's (1.584)
just wanted to add, that i was high when i removed the ihs. it's that easy. lol.
updated!!! the packs that are broken are after alot of remounts, only the nicked pack on the right upper side is what i did, the a64 freezer pro did the rest.
3400+ topless lbble 0521 mpm 2710 @ 1.595v core
How do you even manage that. I've popped five IHS now, and either I'm really good or really lucky. Havn't even bent a pin on any of them.Quote:
Originally Posted by gianni-gt
do you know any of the background on that cpu, does it still work? i mean, all of the caps are still 100% contact. lol what if it did work, that would be insane.Quote:
Originally Posted by gianni-gt
Atleast none of the resistors were cut off, lolQuote:
Originally Posted by gianni-gt
wtf kind of blade was used on that? looks like it was cut off with a mini chainsaw.
I would recommend AGAINST using a Ryobi to pop the top of his next cpu.
Has anyone had trouble with their HS or waterblock making contact with the raised lip of the socket? I took a close look at my BT a few days ago and it was slightly tilted (ie: making contact with the core, but not really good contact).
Funny story, I figured I'd take off the BT and fix this but the screw heads are stripped so I can only tighten.
Overtightening into perfect contact FTW, temps are down ~8-10C.
i've done this before on my old venice and my last X2. I used a razor from an old school shaver and worked well (minus the few cuts on my fingers). without skimming all 600+ posts, is this still the same suggested means of removing the IHS or is there a better way? a simpler way? perhaps a tool that doesn't jeopardize hitting any of the resistors?!?
thanks!
Cutting through that silicone seal is pretty straightforward with a straight razor blade (single sided, otherwise you're begging for cuts). Just pay attention and go slow - I started with the corners and then did the sides. Once you figure out how deep you can safely push the blade (ie: until you're through the silicone and into open space) then it's relatively easy.
ps:
http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/5...hainnn7.th.jpg Funny you should ask ..Quote:
Originally Posted by SidVicious
Do you know if its possible to clip the two clips for the XP-90/120 then screw the clamp down to the heatsink? There is a LOT of force by default i know, but I wonder if the tension is lessened enough by the height difference to let you install the heatsink flat, then screw the two sides down.Quote:
Originally Posted by dz`
http://xtremesystems.org/forums/show...t=naked+xp-120
I did that for both my xp-120 and my newly aquired xp-90.
This thread is B-I-G for such a specialist topic. I guess there's just alot of hardcore b*stards out there :).
I'm here cos i'm about to buy an X2 and have read the stories of terrible IHS contact and the resulting limitation of the one core. So to save me reading all 6 hundred posts to get a good idea of how to do this, can anyone link to a guide, or a certain part of this thread where someone talks you through what they did?
All i know so far is to use a 1-sided razor blade and slowly and calmly slice through the glue material until the IHS is loose enough to pop off. Or is that all there is to it?
Also, what kind of situations is doing this NOT recommended? e.g huge, heavy HS/Fs, or anything like that?
Cheers.
i just did this a few days ago on my new Toledo X2. I went to CVS and bought those double edged razor blades (comes 10 in a pack). I then used the packaging material, taped the razor in place, folded the cardboard over the other side and taped it shut. then i slowly just ran it around the sides, starting with the corners. the biggest advantage to using the cardboard was i could control how deep the razor would enter the lid. in the pic you can see i exposed the razor about 1/2".
the process of cutting took about 10 mins.
http://img389.imageshack.us/img389/1...dox2015la7.jpg
Hey man, where you get that Toledo?
*crosspost*
Just finished removing the IHS from my 165 CCBBE 0617FPMW. It's easy to do but omg what was I shaking... :rolleyes:
Some pictures:
http://www.woutzor.herejezus.com/meu...331_resize.JPG http://www.woutzor.herejezus.com/meu...339_resize.JPG http://www.woutzor.herejezus.com/meu...342_resize.JPG
[Click for Highres.]
The shim u see in picture 2, 3 and 4 is one of a X800. Fits perfectly. The shim is glue'ed in each corner with Super Glue.
Some results:
http://www.woutzor.herejezus.com/meu...Comments_1.GIF
I'm currently running Orthos with 334 x 9 @ 1.450V + 110%. The temperatures don't go above 53°C
http://www.woutzor.herejezus.com/meu...68V_resize.jpg
[Clickable]
anyone has a naked AM2 CPU?
Last sunday i took the chance to remove the IHS.
Specs: AMD Athlon 64+ 3000+ (2GHz), 2.4GHz OC with Asus k8n / 2GB of memory and X800XT
http://tweakers.net/ext/f/987f98783f...938a5/full.jpg
http://tweakers.net/ext/f/025ff5b5b1...58620/full.jpg
http://tweakers.net/ext/f/2b4dc6d7c7...46f49/full.jpg
http://tweakers.net/ext/f/5e3e9f03ac...7317c/full.jpg
Was'nt so successfull as i thought .. I broke a capacitor but the CPU still works finely, and the cooler woud'nt fit anymore on the Core. I had to lower the bracket by sawing some parts of the bottom from it.
5Degrees difference on Load!
Next thing: Big-ass tec on my A64 Core! :D
Interesting that a little SMD broke off and it still works. I'll post a picture of my A64 3000+ Venice - one of the little SMD got nicked and fell off but somehow the CPU still works.
I'll post a picture as soon as i can find the battery for my camera :p
In the mean time, anyone know what those little SMD things (transistor?) actually does?
here's a few of mine. on my 3500+ i nicked the green wafer part, but it didn't hurt performance. runs at 46c @ 1.68v =/ 2.7 GHz max :( keep in mind that i didn't do this until i got hammered ass drunk and thought it would be a good idea
my opty came off just fine. 1.5v it runs 43c @ 3 ghz
my opty
http://www.turbochargersupply.com/dustin/opteron.JPG
my 3500
http://www.turbochargersupply.com/dustin/3500.JPG
What cooling do you use?Quote:
Originally Posted by buttmud
I don't have any pics of mine but I removed my opty IHS and got a 10 degree C drop in temps :eek:
Now running at 2.8GHz with stock voltage :) I need watercooling to get this thing to its max potential though, if I go much higher I need a small voltage bump which in return causes temp rise and it gets to be too much for my zalman CNPS9500.
using a TT BT that is lapped and all shiny looking :)Quote:
Originally Posted by NoStra
I can run 2.8 GHz on stock voltage too, its nice :)Quote:
Originally Posted by SparkyJJO
Wow, are you running the CPU without a shim or any foamy bits? I've got a TT BT (non-VX, so i can adjust height) sitting here but i don't want to mount it on the naked 3000+ because i'm afraid it would crush or chip the core once i turn the motherboard on its side to mount it in my case? Or hasn't that happened to you yet? :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by buttmud