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The deed is done. My first 3770k delid. This one was much tougher than my 3570k. Lid was tight. Worked 2 different razers to get the lid off.
http://minidriven.com/BlacknBlueforI...3770ksmall.jpg
http://minidriven.com/BlacknBlueforI...3770ksmall.jpg
Bare Die Mount no IHS.
http://minidriven.com/BlacknBlueforI...mountsmall.jpg
Good job,share us the results :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by SonDa5
After delidding.
Ambient Temps 22C
Hyperthreading On
http://minidriven.com/BlacknBlueforI...s3770kHTon.jpg
Hyperthreading Off
http://minidriven.com/BlacknBlueforI...3770kHToff.jpg
Here is 4GHZ Intel Burn Test Run on my water cooled delidded 3770k with Hyper Threading enabled.
Ambient temps 24C
1.09v on vcore, 1.5v PLL
TIM Coolaboratory Liquid Pro
Direct Die to water block mount. No IHS with DT Sniper water block.
http://valid.canardpc.com/2597882
http://minidriven.com/BlacknBlueforI...age3770IBT.jpg
Nice work Sonda5 now Try 0.98 Vcore and put 1.40vcore on CPU PLL
3226B987
http://www.firegoon.com/images/vm6cbxh.jpg
im really annoyed with my 3770k i really wanted to hit 4.5ghz as it seems the norm but i have done ihs mod hoping it will help with my temps but its made no difference with my temps at all im using Arctic Cooling MX-4 on the die and the h60 cpu cooler the other thing is i need 1.3v in bios to keep it stable anything less and it freezes or bsods plus it hits 103c is there something im doing wrong or have i got a really s++t cpu
thanks
rubber5 : You must use ( liquid metal ) coollaboratory liquid pro / ultra or Phoebya LM...is the only way that you can downgrade 30 to 40 degrees
forget it arctic mx or silver or gelid..use Liquid metal!
Quote:
Originally Posted by hersounds
Will try that later on. Will also set my ram to your settings from your screen shot.
Sounds like you have a bad mount. Probably poor contact some where between the IHS and DIE or IHS and heat sink surface.Quote:
Originally Posted by rubber5
Vcore at 1.2v. PLL at 1.55 and you should be good to go. You have a cooling problem.
1.4, 1.45 no post on PLL. 1.5 PLL good.Quote:
Originally Posted by hersounds
Batch 3226C840
http://minidriven.com/BlacknBlueforI...hz3770kIBT.jpg
http://valid.canardpc.com/2598378
U have atleast a good cpu with low voltage, my 3570K is barly stable with 1.3v at 4500mhz
That's perfect Sonda5...you have same 3226 and is a nice batch
I just got in the same batch chip yesterday, on water so far it can do 4800 at 1.325v and 5G at 1.45v though imc is just average but still a decent chip.
Now i delidded my third 3570K, using Liquid Pro on the die then on the IHS i using MX4. Is MX4 the best out there? And if i would like to run without IHS , shouldn?t it be good with a thermal gap filler then. Feels so easy that i?ll crush the die.
i reapplied but with artic silver 5 i used the spread method under the ihs and the line under the cpu cooler i have gaind 10c on my hottest core and now im at 4.5ghz with the 3770k @94c but it was at 104c and it did start to throttleQuote:
Originally Posted by hersounds
i have also seen that prime 95 v27.3 blend and ibt gives me the same temps at the end of the day thats strange i thought ibt was ment to be 10c higher
anyway im happy with my oc now
its just a shame i have 1.32v in bios llc set to extreme to keep it stable even dropping it to 1.31 gives a bsod :(
when i was using 1.3 it was fine but after tying again after reapplying the paste it did bsod on me
im not sure if it worth using liquid metal to help im a bit nervous using it becuse of it been able to damage some cpu coolers becuse of the cemical reaction
thanks for your help tho
Try lapping the bottom of the IHS a bit, the part that sits on the pcb. That will get you a tighter mount. The liquid ultra just works better with bad mounts which is what you and I had. Its the reason that some people see such a large improvement with using it but there are other workarounds. Lapping the base of the IHS and doing a really good job cleaning up the epoxy is what did the trick for me.
Yes the big problem is the black epoxy you must delete from pcb
http://www.firegoon.com/images/tqgjk7w.jpg
...and of course a little lapping help so much
http://www.firegoon.com/images/ba7mhth.jpg
I just tried delidding my 3770k by the lid is on incredibly tight. I managed to get the razor underneath, but then this happend. :(
How screwed do you think I am? :confused:
http://i.imgur.com/lewzm.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Zfj96.png
before (pre-ihs removal)
http://i.imgur.com/GUrkT.png
during
http://i.imgur.com/8bZrn.jpg
liquid pro applied (4 surfaces - cpu die, both sides of ihs, waterblock)
http://i.imgur.com/PxORH.jpg
after
http://i.imgur.com/XTJhg.png
http://i.imgur.com/xfQjX.png
= 35c load temperature drop (104c to 69c)
That is an awesome pic, the horror inside each chip is real. Liquid pro works extremely well yes.
Crazy.Quote:
35c load temperature drop
Did you remove the IHS, put the liquid pro, then put the IHS back on?
when i done mine i could see a little metal showings it was scrapings of the ihs just wipe it with tim clean it looks ok to me just put it in your rig and try it thats the only way to tellQuote:
Originally Posted by barretp
You could try covering any exposed metal/traces with something maybe nail varnish or something if you think there's a danger of some other metal like the IHS or LP contacting the exposed area.
:ROTF: :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by Seeker-
Any benefits from lapping the die of the CPU directly, andressergio? I noticed a few others doing it recently.
Also has anyone tried placing the CPU back into the socket without the IHS? Do the brackets surrounding the socket & latch sit above, flush or under the die?
I'm considering running the chip without the IHS and having the die contact the waterblock directly. From the looks of things, the sides of the CPU will need some support in the form of a plastic washer or something due to the metal pressing down on the left/right of the chip if I were to leave the brackets in (I'm not sure if you can do away with them due to the pressure they put on the pins and such!)