What he said. :) I'm particularly interested in the pic with the purple, red and yellow marks showing where to do the volt mod.Quote:
Originally Posted by marauder16
Thanks for the help.
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What he said. :) I'm particularly interested in the pic with the purple, red and yellow marks showing where to do the volt mod.Quote:
Originally Posted by marauder16
Thanks for the help.
It is not page 1 but page 22.Quote:
Originally Posted by marauder16
For some reason, someone at Extreme is erasing pictures like hell.
They probably need the occupied space, but it forces me to send and resend pictures again and again, which is not exactly my favorite hobby.
Maybe someone has a website where the pictures can be stored, then all we need is a link in the text.
Attachment 49303
Attachment 49304
Quote:
Originally Posted by t024484
Ok,thanks i sinked all 3 of em anyway
Thanks for reposting them! :toast:
How about using Image Shack?Quote:
Originally Posted by t024484
The idea of using Image Shack is not bad, but when trying to use it, I get tons of warnings that Trojan Horses and Backdoor infections are trying to get in my system. Not very motivating.Quote:
Originally Posted by InTheFlow
Thank's t024484, I tried lowering my core down to 600MHz and saw no improvement. Does anyone know what the optimal voltage is for the majority of these cards? Could 2.1v be the sweet spot? Or with the Samsungs is it a fairly direct deal, more volts, higher clocks. I ask because with my 7800GT the Infineons were good up to 2.5v but performed the best at around 2.2v. Either way I'm going to put some pot's on these cards and find the sweet spot myself, but I though I'd ask anyways. Thanks again.\
Edit: I never knew that letting artifacts occur for too long could damage anything, thanks for that advice. In the past I'd overclock and see a few artifacts, but was too lazy to close my game to downclock. Good thing I haven't been lazy with these cards! Cheers!
Any reader in Australia may like to know that MSY Technology Clayton branch are advertising the 256Mb MSI 7900 GT for $345 AUD. I don't know why so cheap, but I can't see that good a price anywhere else in Australia. :toast: :clap: :banana:
Quote:
Originally Posted by t024484
On my card if my core is at stock (450) or 650 my mem is stuck at 810 MAX overclock ( no vmods ) so i run it at 800mhz everyday.
Planning to do a vmod soon, can the resistance be taken on those shaded resistors even if theres no power flowing on the card?
http://xs304.xs.to/xs304/06323/resistors.jpg
the red shaded parts are the ones to be connected right ?
The resistance can ONLY be taken when the power is not connected.Quote:
Originally Posted by Demo
The red connection is O.K.
Be aware that this is a 1 Kohm resistor, but it is standing in parallel to 1.5 Kohm, giving you 600 Ohm.
If you want to go to 2.1 Volt, the 1 Kohm resistor should be pencil modded to 920 Ohm.
Still in parallel with 1.5 Kohm you will then measure 570 Ohm.
I've got a "little" problem with one of my 7900GTs and even though they're both vmoded (and were working without any issue @ 720 / 1900), the problem is not with the vmods. While messing around with my PC, I accidently pulled partially out the card out of the PCI-E slot and the result was that one transistor on the back of the PCB got burned out. It's the Q514 one (with six legs, some of them short circuited), originally "TN" is written on it. I couldn't find such anywhere on any other hardware, so I ask here wheather someone knows what are its measurings, in order to look for something very similar to replace it. Well, the board just can't be RMAd in such condition, so threre is nothing I can do, except trying to fix it on my own. I'll be very grateful if someone here can give me a clue what to look for and how to fix my dead 7900GT...
My experience, for what it is worth, is that when a component gets burned, many other components are dying at the same time.Quote:
Originally Posted by XpuctoC.
This means that the board will be most likely beyond repair.
If you want to persist anyhow, I could find out what Q514 is. At first glance it looks like a dual mosfet. About the function, I have no Idea.
I know there could be other dead components, that are not obviously damaged, however I still want to try replacing the Q514 and see if my XFX is gonna make it, or it's forever gone... So, if you think you can find out what exactly is this, supposingly mosfet, I'll be very happy at least to give the board chance of living :) Thank you for the fast reaction t024484, btw :) :)
In regards to the vmod for the mem, how important is the mem speed on this card, say from my current 800mhz and i can raise it to 900 how good is the speed increase?
also this guide is what i used,what are the max volts that these mem are rated for ? i ramsink on them and active cooling also. is 2.25v save for these babies?
also i had to add heatsinks on that ISL chip it gets as hot as those IC near the edge of the PCB
At page 22 of this thread, I showed a much easier voltmod for the GPU.Quote:
Originally Posted by Demo
Concerning your memory, I would not go much beyond 2.1 Volt.
The memory is specified for nominal 1.8 Volt, so 2.1 Volt is already quite a bit more, and I have very positive experiences at 2.1 Volt.
The effect of Memspeed versus GPU speed is roughly 1:2, meaning that 200 Mhz memory increase has roughly the same effect as 100 Mhz GPU increase.
Quote:
Originally Posted by t024484
yeah ive seen that volt mod guide of yours but i needed to do this in order for me to have a "swtich" like function for the voltmod, i cut some small strips if tape and placed it on the PCB where the link pases so if i need to turn remove the mod i just need to peel that small amout of tape placed and not have to redo everything.
As for the mem il try to keep it in 2.1v
but Samsung states how much is the max for this mem , 2.20v ?
Samsung says 2.25, but not under which conditions or how long.Quote:
Originally Posted by Demo
When the Mem is idling, it hardly draws any current, so 2.25 will be no problem, but under full load is can go as high as 1 Amp, or 2 watt, which is rather hefty for a package with a high thermal resistance.
Concerning memory voltage, I've been staying for a few months at 2,27V (resistance of 535 ohms for the third resistor under TP503) for both of the cards and had no single issue. I cool the ICs and the mosfet on the back of the card with massive heatsinks and a 120mm fan, blowing on them. Even though it had been relatively rare, there have been days when I've been playing Oblivion for 10 hours or so... In fact, no matter what cooling you're using, I wouldn't recommend puting any voltage over 2,15V - 2,20V for everyday use.Quote:
Originally Posted by Demo
t024484, any more accurate clue what is the "TN" element and what is the original resistance between its legs?
so its 2.1 then
I did some investigation and came to the following:Quote:
Originally Posted by XpuctoC.
Q514 is a somewhat unusual component.
Inside is a copper plate, firmy connecting points 1,2,5 and 6.
Below and connected to the copper plate is a piece of silicium which senses how much current is flowing from pin 1,2 to pin 5,6.
In some way this is translated to a signal on pin 3, with pin 4 connected to 12 Volt.
The pins 5 and 6 are connected via a 2.2 Kohm resistor to a ground signal of the external molex connector (since pins 1,3 are at 12 Volt, ca 6 mA of current is flowing).
So this circuit helps to answer the question " Is there an external powersource connected to the molex connector ".
With the external power connector in place, pin 3 becomes 12 Volt. Without a power connector pin 3 is at 0 Volt.
I have newer come across such a component, but all you have to do, is to connect the four pins 1,2,5 and 6 together and to connect pin 3 to pin 4. This situation simulates the presence of the external power connector, which is as it normally should be.
Do not try to test the board without the external power connector, because that will probably ruin your PCI connector.
Good luck.
Does anyone know if the paint mod, will work in the new KOs? N584
10x an awful lot, man! Did what you suggested, with a little bit improvisation, and now the card is just like a new one. Rebuilt SLI is flying in games and 3D tests without a single failure. Great help from you! Greetings from Bulgaria!Quote:
Originally Posted by t024484
Lucky you that nothing else was damaged.Quote:
Originally Posted by XpuctoC.
Glad I could help.
Where can I find the pix for this?Quote:
Originally Posted by t024484
mod: found it :)
Ive had 2 of these runnin in SLI mode without issues. Im runnin 1 now with 635core 740mem no mods stock fan.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kin Hell
Could you pls check your bios version mines is 5.71.22.12.03
kind regards
Well, I am not sure of all the mods as this thread is very difficult to follow and after 30 minutes I have yet to find the illustrations.Quote:
Originally Posted by DeToNaToR.cl
But I have done the simple Vmod to 1.4 on my Reloaded EVGA 584 and it works just fine. I see no reason that other variations wouldn't work as well (GPU vmod) as the only change seems to be from the Samsung memory to the Infineon.
I followed this guide: http://forums.extremeoverclocking.co...d.php?t=216265