if you had GTs in SLI the Antec is a little low, I had one and moved to the GameXStream 700, they needed it.
If you have just one GT the antec is enough imo.
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if you had GTs in SLI the Antec is a little low, I had one and moved to the GameXStream 700, they needed it.
If you have just one GT the antec is enough imo.
Spot on! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by CompGeek
aha, wait, he said "the cards", meaning he has two.
The two GTs will thank you for a GameXStream 700
I just ran the bench mark again at 650/1520(stock) with zero artifacts, tried again at 700/1520 and once again, no artifacts. I'm just not satisfied with my memory clock, I can't even get 1600 with any core clock. But I'm buying the PSU right now. Thanks for your input.
it was the same here, id get flashing screens etc with the slightest mem OC until i bought the OCZ GXS
Oh wow! Very cool, Now I'm excited, haha! Thanks guys.
Edit: Newegg's out of stock :(
Double Edit: I was just messing around with the meter, Measured my top card at 1.99v so that would explain the memory clock issues, but when I pulled out the second card and re measured the voltage it was still 1.99. Is my power supply that bad? To be fair I didn't change the SLi jumpers because I'm lazy, and I know alot of the juice comes from the PCI-E slot, but with no second card it shouldn't make a difference right? Or did EVGA cut the volts on their cheapest card. I also noticed my core voltages were a bit off too. 1.548 and with the 1.4 mod, 1.398. Any ideas?
I think the PSU is your problem in all this, lower voltes, memory clock etc., get your OCZ 700W from Tiger direct if newegg's out of stock, they too have good prices...
Yeah.....check the Antec's Amperage on the 12v Side of things. Then look at the OCZ's Amperage. The OCZ should floor it. Another thing to do is check your PSU with a PSU Tester. They only cost about 10 bucks. PC P&C chuked one in with my 1KW Quad SLI PSU....how nice of them! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by TehVince
Another thing worth checking is to make sure you have all the necessary Connectors to the Board. ASUS & DFI have power connectors on the board which MUST be connected with power when Running SLI. The ASUS boards use a Molex Connector whilst the DFI Expert boards use a Floppy Connector. The mobo manuals insist on these Connectons when running SLI.
Best of luck! :)
*edit* Antec are not the best of PSU's
I was in luck, shortly after my edit they were back in stock at Newegg, woot! And you were right Kin Hell, the Antec had two 12v rails both rated for 19A, I have no idea how the six pin PCI-E plugs are spread on this PSU, but the OCZ is 18A accross all FOUR 12v rails, YAY! Not to mention CPU and GPU's are all on they're own rail, very cool. I appreciate all the help guys, I'll post when I get my power supply. Cheers!
Edit: I was just wondering what compononents I should have heatsinks on in the attached picture, I've read that one of these chips doesn't like to have a heatsink on it. I just want these cards to last as long as possible, and pending on the results I get with the new PSU, I want to be ready to do the memory volt mod. Are there any other chips I should have sinked? Thanks in advance guys!
It was posted on page 23, but for some reason the picture is no longer there.Quote:
Originally Posted by TehVince
Attachment 49208
Thanks t024484! I'll make sure that chip is sinked A.S.A.P. I'll post when I get my PSU, Thanks a ton guys!
do any one know if i use a 7900GT KO SC bios on my 7900GT CO will i get the 1..45volt on it too or will it still be set at 1.2
The higher Voltage can only be enabled if the hardware switches (D509,D512,Q517 etc) are there.Quote:
Originally Posted by ruff97
As far as I know, the CO board does not have these Switches onboard.
Bad news guys, I threw in my new and beautiful PSU and nothing's changed! I've lost my LCD multi meter for the moment, so I busted out the Micronta range doubler (22-204A) from the 80's and I'm getting the same volts (I think). It's a little hard to get an exact measurement and I think it might be a bit off, but it looks to be around 1.99 again. Needless to say, my overclock didn't change either. I've plugged all the molex's into the board, everything's hooked up correctly, what am I missing here? I'm going to try and get a hold of one of those EVGA bios with the timing tweaks and see if that helps at all. On a different note, I am capable of doing the memory volt mod, but I've read all over the net that doing this is just asking for trouble. Is this true? I've got the component that t024484 marked sinked, a good solder iron, and a good hand. If I use high quality resistors and don't get greedy with the volts will my card's stay alive for a couple years? I'm a bit confused here and looking for good ideas, thanks a ton.
No supplier is telling us the reason why the 7900 is having problems.Quote:
Originally Posted by TehVince
Although EVGA changed their memory chips from Samsung to Infineon, I do not think that this will be the solution for the majority of the problems.
When I use Coolbits, it looks as if my board is almost dead, although initially everything worked fine with Coolbits. So it is for sure that something is damaged and working worse than initially.
Without Coolbits everything is working as it should, already for almost a month.
Coolbits is seeming to use a function that others do not use in the same way.
With all this information, nobody can convince me that the memory is the cause of this. I have never heard of memory that does not like Coolbits.
So because the Infineon memory seems to use less power, it should help to reduce the heat problem of that single Mosfet, but it does not solve the rest of the problems.
So coming to your question, I think that you can safely increase the voltage on your Memory, as long as you keep the Mosfet cool. How long your board will last depends on the GPU.
Quote:
Originally Posted by t024484
I don't see the picture for this mod, is it gone? Would someone kindly repost it or point me to where it is?
Thanks.
Hey kin! Thanks for the PM while I was gone although I just not received it. It was nice to see that you were curious as to what happened. Well the good news is that I have the motherboard back from RMA and it turned out to be the motherboard was bad like I thought. Everything else is fine, although I did RMA my RAM while the PC was down. I needed to do it anyway but never wanted to have downtime (but in hindsight it only took newegg 4 days to have the ram replaced and back at my doorstep which was lighting fast compared to ASUS) so it was the perfect shot to take care of it while the PC was down anyway. The onboard sound wasnt working right before the black screen issue so it needed to be RMA'd anyway but since I have a dedicated audio card it wasnt a big issue and I wasnt planning on worrying about getting it RMAed until I was ready to upgrade the whole system. But then the black screen issue came up (no signal to the monitor). Im pretty sure something must have gotten fried when that power surge hit the mobo, a buddy said the same thing happened to him before. His was a burnt out cap that wasnt providing a signal to the monitor so I believe mine may have been the same issue. I'll never know exactly I guess, I just know it was something with the motherboard.
So I had to take apart the whole system, luckily I didnt have to drain my whole water setup, I was able to take out the motherboard by just removing the blocks from the CPU and GPU and carefully take it out so that saved alot of time and frustration. I actually waited a couple weeks before I even did anything, didnt really have the time (or so I thought it would take awhile but it didnt because of the water setup as mentioned above) but I eventually RMA'd the board and ASUS took longer then the "10 days" they say an RMA will take. That was something I feared because I remember hearing ASUS sometime can take awhile with RMAs. But anyway they received the board on the 19th, they don't include weekends or holidays as part of the 10 days so technically it should have taken 2 weeks (14 days - 4 weekend days = 10) but the 4th of July holiday rolled around too so that added an extra 2 days turning into 16 days it technically should have taken but it took about 23 when it was all said and done, not including travel time back to me which was an extra 2 days, I got lucky though, fedex dropped it off a day earlier then the expected delivery so that was nice. But ASUS took forever just to replace the board (whenever I called to check the status they said it was in repair status but once the board showed up I found out it was actually replaced so the long delay had me even more pissed that it took that long just to replace a board but oh well). I finally got the board back on the 13th (yesterday). 6 days shy of a full month, 10 days my ass :mad: lol.
Oh well, i'm just glad to be back up and running. I have alot of gaming to catch up on, I got HL2: EP1 and Titan Quest during the downtime so I finally get to play those. I had to use the net at the library to keep up on my forum sales and stuff (I sell at Hard Forum, anandtech and PCPER and will here once I reach the 100 posts required) and I kinda forgot about XS since I wasnt selling here and most of my limited time was spent on the forums I sell at. Most of my time was consumed with updating threads, keeping buyers updated and all of the other stuff that comes along with internet trading heh. But yeah it definetely sucked waiting for that board to get back, I watched a ton of movies during the hiatus and luckily a friend let me borrow his XBOX so I was able to keep busy with some console games as well. I played alot of games though, I finally got to finish Jade Empire which I never had the chance to. I used to have an xbox a year or so ago but it was stolen before I got to enjoy Jade Empire. I bought the game and guide and got to play for a few hours before it got taken. Anyway, its a great game and will be coming to PC soon so if anyone missed out on it because you didnt have an XBOX or whatever I highly recommend it, its an awesome game as everyone already knows. Im just glad to be up and running again, woot!
When I find that damn meter I'm going to get right on it. Thank's for all the help t024484 and everyone else! I wonder if I left it at work, hmm...
P.S. I haven't been using coolbits since I bought these cards, I was actually just waiting for you guys to break the 1.3v limit before I ditched my 7800GT and I stumbled accross the coolbits issues. Once again, thanks a ton everyone! Oh and, this PSU is really loud...
Nice 1 Smut...Asus...rofl...I chap I know waited 5 weeks for a replacement Asus X1900 XTX....The supplier let him have a tested GX2 XFX XXX card as a gesture of goodwill. Good service is Like Owning a Plextor Drive! ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by smut
Well, after about half an hour of searching, the little devil appeared in dirty clothes basket. I'm not sure why or how it got there, but I found it. Anyways, I quickly checked the voltages of my cards and to my surprise, the memory still registered 1.997v, so I checked the core and I was very happy to see the 1.550 that I wanted. I'm going to do some penciling and see if my overclock increases, if it does I'll put on either a fixed resistor or a pot. Any insight to why the memory is undervolted? When I bought these cards they were the cheapest newegg had, could this be EVGA's way to justify the 7900GT SC badge on more expensive cards? Thanks in advance.
Edit: With my pencil I'm running 2.22v on both cards and I still cant overclock my memory. I'm not to happy about this and am debating what to do from here.
Quote:
Originally Posted by t024484
Is the one marked in red the only chip needed to be heatsinked? or would the one directly above and on the rightside also need cooling ?
The one to be cooled is of course the red guy, why else should only one component be indicated.Quote:
Originally Posted by Demo
But, you can attach the same heatsink to the other two also to get a mechanically more stable platform.
The memory is not undervolted, but in fact already somewhat factory overvolted, because the nominal value is 1.8 Volt.Quote:
Originally Posted by TehVince
Nvidia has set the voltage at 2.0 Volt, which is exactly what you measure.
But the maximum allowable voltage is 2.5 Volt.
Going to 2.1 or even to 2.2 Volt on a continuous base does not seem to be too much of a problem.
My board is running on 2.1 Volt for almost two months at 1850 Mhz.
One word of advise, be carefull with pencil modding, it is not a very stable mod, and you are producing quite some debris that can cause trouble.
Another word of advice is to be carefull with overclocking the memory any further once its starts artifacting.
The memory or whatever else does not like this, and you can cause permanent damage if you go beyond the artifacting limit too far.
Use AtiTool, and stop when AtiTool visually starts Artifacting with yellow points or lines. That's all.
The reason you cannot overclock the memory, could be because you have the GPU at its limit. Just lower the GPU frequency and see what happens.
Be aware that there is a ratio of 2:1 in Mem vs GPU frequency, meaning that 2Mhz increase on the Mem has almost the same effect as 1Mhz on the GPU.
So if you have to drop the GPU 20Mhz to achieve a 100 Mhz increase in Mem, you have made quite a step forward.
Can you be a bit more specific. I have posted several picture. Which is the one you are referring to. Give me a link to the page where I can find it.Quote:
Originally Posted by InTheFlow
he means that pictures on page 1 of this thread are no longer seeable, I too can't see them anymore...