It is segsy! Don't you deny it! :PQuote:
Originally posted by Michaelangelo
right ...:D
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It is segsy! Don't you deny it! :PQuote:
Originally posted by Michaelangelo
right ...:D
I've got it RMA'd, all I'm waiting for is the arrival of a temporary MSI Kt400-board I can use while the A7N8X is away on RMA.Quote:
Originally posted by NUNEZ1980
hi there, and sorry for the issues,
but what I recommend is to rma and get another board, the good boards must be able to reach 200mhz without any mods,
I have try many boards and I can tell you this if it doesn't reach 200mhz stock, it sucks:rolleyes:
You want a board that can reach 200mhz stock, so you can increase with mods, getting to 200mhz with mods is just plain wrong:mad:
If it wasn't for the §§§§ty FSB/RAM-problems, A7N8X Deluxe is an excellent board. Guess I was just out of luck with my particular board.
Very nice.
Hy, did anyone had a problem with 'locked' vcore on an asus a7n8x non dlx ? After installing my 2500+ on this board, the vcore is 'stucked' in 1.85. If i set it to auto i get 1.85, if its set to menu it only shows 1.85v option. I've taken the cpu out, cleaned it and rubbed some as3 on it and problem remains..
If someone could give me a piece of advice i would aprecciate.
cheers.
well that is odd, but try changing the bios, it might help you out:rolleyes:Quote:
Originally posted by teArdr0p
Hy, did anyone had a problem with 'locked' vcore on an asus a7n8x non dlx ? After installing my 2500+ on this board, the vcore is 'stucked' in 1.85. If i set it to auto i get 1.85, if its set to menu it only shows 1.85v option. I've taken the cpu out, cleaned it and rubbed some as3 on it and problem remains..
If someone could give me a piece of advice i would aprecciate.
cheers.
I am alread using the lastest one.. Do u really think a previous bios could solve it ? once i have no other ideias i think i'll give it a go.. brb with results.
erm.... Vcore increasing without reboot ?! In a minute i've a reading of 1.88 and temperatures of 51ºC idle and in the other i have 1.68 42-45ºC idle ?! Flashed to previous bios, same problem. an btw, forgot to mention, my +12v rail was around 12.9 and nowis around 12.6 :?
wow thats too high, I suggest getting a multi meter and check that out, maybe is just a software issue, not real voltages, is thats real then it might give you problems:(, but I would try a different psu, that could be the problemQuote:
Originally posted by teArdr0p
erm.... Vcore increasing without reboot ?! In a minute i've a reading of 1.88 and temperatures of 51ºC idle and in the other i have 1.68 42-45ºC idle ?! Flashed to previous bios, same problem. an btw, forgot to mention, my +12v rail was around 12.9 and nowis around 12.6 :?
Booted at 255 today it was stable enuff to get some benchmarks and a snapshot timmings were on the poor side CL2.5-4-4-8
Weeee just got me an Rev. 2.0 A7N8X dlx after my second 1.04 died the bios death.....
It does like 221 FSB in memtest atm so im pretty happy (Stock mobo for now)
Ill see how she goes
Im about to go out of my mind!
Its dead again, Ive tried clearing cmos and so on..... Dont know if Im going to ask for an abit or something :(
Sorry to hear
Im allright now, got the money back since its the third time bios dies. And got me an Abit instead.
Think I have to look into NB cooling ;)
Btw. I changed my Maze 2 with cathars so very nice Cascade and its performing wonderfull!!
I just want to know a little thing...
Where to read Vcore on a7n8x board (with a Vultimeter)?
I know where to read Vdimm, Vdd... not Vcore. I mean I got points where to read Vdimm and Vdd that not where to do the Vmods. There is also a pin where to read Vcore, that not the pin where to Vmod it? ;)
I'm getting mighty tired of my board. After I RMA'd it, they sent it back a week later telling me it worked perfectly well.
I've gotten a Barton 2500+ which seems like a nice chip (2.23Ghz without trying to push it). What is NOT good is that I still can't get near an FSB of 200Mhz. Thus, with my mucho expensive Corsair TwinX512 matched pair of 256mb-modules, I get 2.5Gb/s in Sisoft Sandra. Feels like a complete waste to run the Corsairs @ 356Mhz (6-2-2-2).
I managed to powerup @ 200Mhz, but the computer just froze when the first text was showing on screen.
Anybody know a good and easy way to remove the glued NB-sink? My problem smells like an overheated NB.
A diff board, but have a look here...Quote:
Anybody know a good and easy way to remove the glued NB-sink? My problem smells like an overheated NB.
The common solution to this is to buy a vantec iceberq cooler (or re-use the stock cooler although I don't recommend it) and attach it to the northbridge using a good thermal compound such as Arctic Silver 3 or similar. The thermal pad used by epox is almost as strong as frag tape, so to to safely remove the heatsink, snap out the pins from the bottom of the motherboard (carefully, you will re-use these) and point a blow dryer directly at the heatsink for about 20 seconds. After heating it up for this short amount of time Just pull off the heatsink as if it weren't even attached. Oh and be very careful not to burn yourself on the heatsink! For those of you who didn't realize air had such a powerful cooling effect, you can definitely see the opposite of this evidence when you get a nice blister on your finger for not following my advice! Installation is the reverse of removal: Apply a good amount of thermal compound (over apply a bit to help overcome the poor shaping of the northbridge), line up, snap in pins. Below are two pictures of the vantec cooler properly installed.
Once you have it off, you could do this :D
Thanks.. :)
I doubt I'll lap the stuff currently though... ;)
Edit: (a couple of weeks later)
I solved the problem by touching the sink with a soldering iron. The sink loosened easily. To get the sticky stuff off wasn't as easy though. No way to remove it with fingers or a piece of plastic. Drove to a local electronics shop and bought a can of CRC Electronic Cleaner, sprayed the NB and it wiped off like melted butter :) No residue left. Lapping is definitely needed, but at the moment I'll go for a nice, thick layer of AS3 instead. Works fine.
i used some good termal grease and mounted the nb hs again, then i stuck a zalman hs on the sb.
believe it or not, cooling the sb helped me to get from 195 to 202 fsb!
EDIT: dual channel fo course and my board is an a7n8x deluxe rev2.0 "gold edition"
235dc with only 1.7v vdd and a 5v delta on the nb :) i like this board!
240dc 2-2-3-9 with 1.7vdd and higher rails (14v/5.6v/3.6v)
KHX2700 at 178 5-2-2 cl2 1T
I've been following the thread and am curious if I have missed a step :confused:
I can't seem to get avove 205X10.5
I, however had done no Volt mods.
What is the highest anyone is getting without voltmods??
thanks
:toast:
i got 205 out of the box, then i did the L12 mod on my 1700+ to make it look like a 333fsb cpu and got it to 210/215fsb.
after doing the vdd mod i can run 3dmark at 255dc now :) (only stable for max 30min, then it crashes :D)
Awsome!! Thanks Saaya: was that 205 WCooled???Quote:
Originally posted by saaya
i got 205 out of the box, then i did the L12 mod on my 1700+ to make it look like a 333fsb cpu and got it to 210/215fsb.
after doing the vdd mod i can run 3dmark at 255dc now :) (only stable for max 30min, then it crashes :D)
And I heard you can trick your MOBO into believing the fsb on the chip is slower. Is that still agreed upon, or a fluke?
Also, another question ;) what the heck does dc at the end of your 255 stand for:confused:
:toast:
My god this thread is getting long :P I should pick up a new A7N8X and toy with it... see if it's gotten better :)