Skinnee Labs - GTX480 Block Round-Up (working thread)

Luke, I can't get the closeup pictures to load, so I'm not sure exactly where we're talking about the extra chips causing problems.

And I haven't checked things closely yet (and I'm at work right now so I can't check things at the moment).

Do you know where the bad contact is occurring? And do I put washers on all the screws or just the 3 internal ones or just the outer ones?

I suppose if worse comes to worst, I can leave the 3 internal screws directly on the board and waterblock and just attach the backplate
with the outer rim screws ?

tell me to get lost if this question is out of place... just seems like this mad thread is getting some eye time!

how long can I leave a water cooled loop / setup with out running it before I would have to do a full bleed and dry?

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Originally Posted by luke997

With the thin washers there's no problem with 3 middle screws, you can tighten them just fine and the plate is flat so no bending = no problems and good contact.

I have 3 cards done this way and RAM running 2000, no problems.
Obviously though everyone does it on his own risk :D

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yup
eddy said they are building a new backplate
so y take a risk for something that cost usd25

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Soulwind

Luke, I can't get the closeup pictures to load, so I'm not sure exactly where we're talking about the extra chips causing problems.

And I haven't checked things closely yet (and I'm at work right now so I can't check things at the moment).

Do you know where the bad contact is occurring? And do I put washers on all the screws or just the 3 internal ones or just the outer ones?

I suppose if worse comes to worst, I can leave the 3 internal screws directly on the board and waterblock and just attach the backplate
with the outer rim screws ?

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u cant.
the backplate has prebuilt stand offs
ure screws will be below it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by delushin

tell me to get lost if this question is out of place... just seems like this mad thread is getting some eye time!

how long can I leave a water cooled loop / setup with out running it before I would have to do a full bleed and dry?

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once theres flow from one end to one end.. so dont really have to wait for full bleed

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Soulwind

Luke, I can't get the closeup pictures to load, so I'm not sure exactly where we're talking about the extra chips causing problems.

And I haven't checked things closely yet (and I'm at work right now so I can't check things at the moment).

Do you know where the bad contact is occurring? And do I put washers on all the screws or just the 3 internal ones or just the outer ones?

I suppose if worse comes to worst, I can leave the 3 internal screws directly on the board and waterblock and just attach the backplate
with the outer rim screws ?

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Pics below - they are links as 1st they are large and 2nd I don't want to trash this thread anymore than I have to :)

Here outlined chips on the back of card:
http://rapidshare.com/files/39657854...ck_problem.jpg

Here are close up of the side of cards with backplate on near the problem area - prior to mounting washers.
If you look into the large white capacitor in the middle, 1st problem is the wires coming out of it on the back of PCB.
Without standoff they were touching backplate on 2 of my cards.
The chips are just left to this capacitor and it is visible there is no clearance between it and backplate.

http://rapidshare.com/files/396578122/DSC02900.JPG
http://rapidshare.com/files/396578123/DSC02901.JPG

You can't put washers just on the some of the standoffs - this might cause backplate/PCB to bend, just put them on all.

+1 for cstkl1 answer - you can't leave the middle 3 screws when mounting the backplate easily - to do that you would have to dremel/mill the standoffs on the backplate as they are exactly over those screws so no go.
BTW - Been thinking about it myself but washers are easier and that's what EK advised too.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by luke997

Pics below - they are links as 1st they are large and 2nd I don't want to trash this thread anymore than I have to :)

Here outlined chips on the back of card:
http://rapidshare.com/files/39657854...ck_problem.jpg

Here are close up of the side of cards with backplate on near the problem area - prior to mounting washers.
If you look into the large white capacitor in the middle, 1st problem is the wires coming out of it on the back of PCB.
Without standoff they were touching backplate on 2 of my cards.
The chips are just left to this capacitor and it is visible there is no clearance between it and backplate.

http://rapidshare.com/files/396578122/DSC02900.JPG
http://rapidshare.com/files/396578123/DSC02901.JPG

You can't put washers just on the some of the standoffs - this might cause backplate/PCB to bend, just put them on all.

+1 for cstkl1 answer - you can't leave the middle 3 screws when mounting the backplate easily - to do that you would have to dremel/mill the standoffs on the backplate as they are exactly over those screws so no go.
BTW - Been thinking about it myself but washers are easier and that's what EK advised too.

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What about that strip of foam alongside those chips you are talking about, doesn't that foam strip prevent anything from touching? Also could you share with us how thick your washers are and if they came with either the backplate and/or EK WB? I plan on using an EK backplate on my EVGA GTX 480 and would like to use whatever washers are needed.

- Systemlord

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Systemlord

What about that strip of foam alongside those chips you are talking about, doesn't that foam strip prevent anything from touching?
- Systemlord

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Nope, plus you need to remove it as there are 2 screws underneath :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Systemlord

Also could you share with us how thick your washers are and if they came with either the backplate and/or EK WB? I plan on using an EK backplate on my EVGA GTX 480 and would like to use whatever washers are needed.

- Systemlord

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I just cut the washers from thick paper and drilled holes through - quick and easy - it is about the thickness of the standard washers which EK includes for example for the waterblock for last 2 screws where the fan holes are (I actually used couple of those exact washers - didn't use them for those screws as they raise the screws).

Hope that helps :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by luke997

Nope, plus you need to remove it as there are 2 screws underneath :)



I just cut the washers from thick paper and drilled holes through - quick and easy - it is about the thickness of the standard washers which EK includes for example for the waterblock for last 2 screws where the fan holes are (I actually used couple of those exact washers - didn't use them for those screws as they raise the screws).

Hope that helps :)

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Thanks, I can probably use some fiber washers at about 2mm thick, sanding them thinner if needed.

- Systemlord

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Systemlord

Thanks, I can probably use some fiber washers at about 2mm thick, sanding them thinner if needed.

- Systemlord

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No problems.
2mm is waaaay too thick. It is less than 0.5mm.
If the washers are too thick, you will not be able to mount the backplate as the screws are short.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by luke997

No problems.
2mm is waaaay too thick. It is less than 0.5mm.
If the washers are too thick, you will not be able to mount the backplate as the screws are short.

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I figured 2mm would be way thick, there's this hardware store 35 miles from where I live, McFadendale's carries stuff you will not find in many places on planet earth! From grade 12 hardened steel 1M screws all the way to 24M screws that must way in at 30 pounds, washers made from material like PVC washers about the thickness you are talking about, they have stuff I've never even heard of before! I'm headed out that way on Saturday, what size washers were you talking about for what size screws?

- Systemlord

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Systemlord

I figured 2mm would be way thick, there's this hardware store 35 miles from where I live, McFadendale's carries stuff you will not find in many places on planet earth! From grade 12 hardened steel 1M screws all the way to 24M screws that must way in at 30 pounds, washers made from material like PVC washers about the thickness you are talking about, they have stuff I've never even heard of before! I'm headed out that way on Saturday, what size washers were you talking about for what size screws?

- Systemlord

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M3 size, but seriously, it is easy and quick to cut your own from whatever you've got at hand (I used hard paper which was packaging for AA batteries lol :) and punch a hole :) you'll save yourself a long trip and this will works as well.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Systemlord

I figured 2mm would be way thick, there's this hardware store 35 miles from where I live, McFadendale's carries stuff you will not find in many places on planet earth! From grade 12 hardened steel 1M screws all the way to 24M screws that must way in at 30 pounds, washers made from material like PVC washers about the thickness you are talking about, they have stuff I've never even heard of before! I'm headed out that way on Saturday, what size washers were you talking about for what size screws?

- Systemlord

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Got one in Vegas. Way across the big crowded valley. Awesome place, way worth the drive. Needed rad screws, teeny and long. They had it and the tap and die set for them.

A wonderful place, the sweet knarled old lady was a great smartass and knew a lot.:D

Only McMaster Carr on line has more.:up:

Skinnee do you have an estimate on how much longer it will be before you provide the data were all so anxiously awaiting? Thanks..:D

I'm not good with estimates, because unforeseen events always happen when I try to estimate.

I do however have this little nugget to share while I'm hanging out at FrozenCPU today...

This was snapped last night.
http://skinneelabs.com/assets/images...omTIMPrint.jpg

Now, I'm trying to decide just how many blocks should get the all TIM treatment as the results were jaw-dropping.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by skinnee

I'm not good with estimates, because unforeseen events always happen when I try to estimate.

I do however have this little nugget to share while I'm hanging out at FrozenCPU today...

Now, I'm trying to decide just how many blocks should get the all TIM treatment as the results were jaw-dropping.

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are the results going to be posted soon? or at least a hint of the difference all-TIM makes before Monday when my kit arrives

Quote:

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Originally Posted by skinnee

I'm not good with estimates, because unforeseen events always happen when I try to estimate.

I do however have this little nugget to share while I'm hanging out at FrozenCPU today...

Now, I'm trying to decide just how many blocks should get the all TIM treatment as the results were jaw-dropping.

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How can one know if the TIM is transferring heat more efficiently?

Not all cards can make the transition to all TIM, I first tried the EK and there was no contact on the VRM's. My thinking here is EK engineers the block with specific height knowing the thermal pads that will be used.

I notice that you keep mentioning the EK block. Are you hinting at something here? :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by skinnee

Not all cards can make the transition to all TIM, I first tried the EK and there was no contact on the VRM's. My thinking here is EK engineers the block with specific height knowing the thermal pads that will be used.

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I believe Koolance blocks are designed the same way. I can't wait to see the results now that you say Jaw Dropping :) I am now running my 3 EVGA 480 GTX SC's at 900/2100 and my temps with my cards only rose a tiny bit. I still idle at 33C but after looping Vantage my top card gets up to 54C. Still very acceptable to me considering this is all on a PA 120.3. I have a HWLabs 480 GTX sitting here just have not installed it yet. I want to see these Jaw dropping results now though.... Can you tell us is it just temp related or did it allow for a much higher OC by adding the TIM?

Just an observation here, I was looking very closely at all of the different designs and I noticed that the Danger Den water block has the inlet channel flow directly over the GPU core area while the outlet channel on it's way out also passes directly over the GPU core before the water exits. Mmmmmm...

- Systemlord

Maybe they want half the die to be cold and the other side hot? Call it the fire and ice block?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by UrbanSmooth

I notice that you keep mentioning the EK block. Are you hinting at something here? :D

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No, it's just that the block is designed to use TIM pads and without the pads, the contact cannot be achieved with thermal grease only.

Patiently waiting for result ... skinnee great jobs as always!
EK block always looks good. Can we use both TIM pads and thermal grease together? Eddy?

Logically you could use thermal pads just on the parts that require it for contact and then grease on the rest. I did this for my 280 although it is basically dead now.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JoeChuo

Patiently waiting for result ... skinnee great jobs as always!
EK block always looks good. Can we use both TIM pads and thermal grease together? Eddy?

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As I said 3 posts up, you cannot as the block is designed for the thermal pads.

Nice thread mate, If u dont mind me asking which Block gave the best temps?