@ Zeeky... on resistor K... doh
lol, unless you mean something else.
Printable View
@ Zeeky... on resistor K... doh
lol, unless you mean something else.
posted in wrong thread, sorry guys!
Do you mean cover the K resistor with pencil lead (better then to use conductive ink/paint) from end to end? And if the answer to my question is yes then why perform a 47K ohm resistor mod when a simple pencil mod will do essentially the same thing?Quote:
Originally Posted by CompGeek
Edit:
I PM'd Haltech on the matter and this was his response:
"I penciled right over it. If i were to do it again, i would either solder a VR or not even touch it. My memory clock went down when i did it. I had to blast the area with chemtronics circuit cleaner to get it off."
Well I now know how to perform this pencil mod but evidently it doesn't work? Perhaps the 47K ohm resistor mod is the only solution if one has the memory overclocking problem t024484 made mention of?? Thanks in advance!
You are mixing two different issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by Z33ky
1) Resistor K is for increasing the oscillator frequency. You can do a pencil mod on top of resistor K, to bring down the resistance to 45Kohm.
With conductive ink you will bring the resistance down to 0 Ohm, which is a no no.
BUT, pencil moddings are not that stable, and lots of debris are produced which could upset some other parts. Much better is to solder a 100Kohm resistor on top of resistor K.
2) The 47 Kohm resistor is to lowering Vref, to get more room for noise on the VGPU before the OVP shuts down. This is all described on the bottom of page 20.
Not to difficult to find with your fingerQuote:
Originally Posted by adamryer
Attachment 48671
Anyone have any idea why, since I did this mod, my cards clock higher, but my scores are way down?
Im getting about 18k in 05 @ the same speeds with which I previously got 21k.
How far is it safe to take Resistor K down to? Decreasing it to 38Kohm has GREATLY increased my stability @ 1.7v, will going down to 30Kohm be an issue? Will i risk killing something?
I think you can go without risk to 30 Kohm. As long as the mosfets are not getting boiling hot, everything is O.K.Quote:
Originally Posted by CompGeek
I never tried 1.7 Volt, so it is good to know that K has to be decreased even further.
If you make your system more stable with various mods, you come at a point where everything seems to be stable yet, but scores are going down.Quote:
Originally Posted by CompGeek
Just a little decrease in Mem or GPU frequency is enough to get your scores like they should be.
Nah, that didnt help, it was the above 38Kohm that was NEEDED, and I think 30 will help even more :)Quote:
Originally Posted by t024484
Hey I havent had time to read thru this whole section but I got a quick question
I have an evga 7900GT CO SC stock at 580/780 well any way I want to do the 1.55 mod but I heard you need watercooling for that.
I have a vf900 installed and my idle temp is 35 C.
If 1.55 is too much, is 1.5 resonable?
I already know what to do , its just I googled evreything looking for a heat dissapation chart on the voltages.
thanks :D
@AnthraX
The extra cooling won't prevent frying your card! Check out the following posts:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=102275
well I just did the 1.4 mod...
temps idle at 39 ish 40.
put the core right up to 685 no problems...
But I think I may have done the 1.5 by accedint..see I messed up so many times, that I think when I wiped it off with acetone, I couldnt get all of it and yeah...
one I get my digital multimeter Il check it out.
Also can someone please show me a picture of where to put the heatsinks on the IC's??
I would appreciate it.
also is it normal to hear a high picthed whining sound when I run intensive 3D apps?
:)
1) Heatsink: See earlier this pageQuote:
Originally Posted by Lord AnthraX
2) 1.55 Volt: Is still an open ended discussion. In general, the more volts, the more likely that lifetime is shorted. But unmodified boards with 1.2 Volt are dying, and others are seemingly doing O.K. with 1.7 Volt. With the VF900, you do not need watercooling for 1.55Volt.
Do not use Coolbits. Switching from 2D to 3D with Coolbits aggrevates the problems with the GPU.
3) Whining: Search this forum and you will find how to cure this.
t024484,
In the above post you mentioned to not use "Coolbits" because the switching between both 2d and 3d can aggravate the problems with GPU. Now I have done minimal searching on this topic both here at extremesystems and also googled it without much specific information. I am curious because I have heard it mentioned in the past.
With that said, is the problem caused by "Coolbits" itself or is it just the actual switching of 2d and 3d clockspeeds that aggrevates the issues? Despite where the problem stems from is there a safer way to change clockspeeds between 2d and 3d modes, maybe by using another program like RivaTuner, ATI Tool, etc...? Thanks for you help and I'm sorry if indeed this question has already been beaten to death, lol!
LordAnthraX check out post number 567 as it will answer your last question.
Ok yeah I got it.
I put some Heatsinks on the IC's and it stoped
Im glad I only heard the noise once I dont want to damage them.
So does 1.5 seam reasonable? in terms of heat output?
In another thread, I have reported my experiences when I thought my board was dying, because of flashing screens, freezes and strange artefacts independent of frequency, and the fact that it was no longer possible to run Deep Freeze in 3DMark06.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger_D25
Then Flytek and Humeboy both advised me to deinstall Coolbits and try again.
Because everything functioned perfectly before the problems started with Coolbits installed, I had little believe in deinstalling Coolbits.
But much to my surprise, after having removed Coolbits, everything functioned troublefree. I have then tried ATItool and RivaTuner instead and both where O.K. but at the end I have simply changed the 3D frequencies in BIOS with Nibitor, and my board is still completely troublefree, the question is of course " for how long"??
I can see a big difference when starting a 3D program like 3DMark06 with and without Coolbits.
With Coolbits I see a large black area on my screen flashing on and of shortly before 3DMark06 starts loading.
Without Coolbits the transition from 2D to 3D goes smoothly and without this large black area.
Maybe this is the moment where something in the GPU is getting damaged/disturbed when this has happened several times.
It seems that Coolbits is using a different switching mechanism or switching order that pushes the GPU over an edge that should not be there in the first place.
Quote:
Originally Posted by t024484
Hmm... i dont notice that kind of anomality on my card, i have a stock clocked Inno3d 7900gt 256mb, did it completely eliminate your problem after removing coolbits? ( im also using coolbits to overclock )
Also does putting cooling on those hot IC's really help ? coz i placed a total of 3 zalman vf ramsinks ( same with ones that came with the vf900 ) on those spots. and have an active fan blowing on them... first i tried w/o an active fan the heatsinks pretty much got extremely hot.
t024484,
I just barely got your above message, thanks for the reply! I'm glad to say I've had the same results as you did with my SS card. Just like you I would get this "Screen" with either lots of horizontal/verticle multi-colors lines or just a total black blinking screen when first starting up games, benchmarks, or anything 3D because of the initial 2d to 3d switch.
This only happened a few times because I had done a driver version switch late and night and didn't have time to reinstall RT afterwards (I just loaded up coolbits). When I install a new driver I usually uninstall/reinstall RT as well despite the fact I might not have to? Anyway after installing coolbits I started getting the "Screen" before starting games/benchmarks/or any 3d applications. Fortunelty I knew it might be because of coolbits (had heard of this happening over at guru3d) so I uninstalled driver again, reinstalled along with RT and the "Screen" went away, problem solved! Thanks for your experience.
that's been happening to me when loading eq2. I'll try the latest drivers fresh install and see if it fixes it.
Hello, I recently did the 1.55 volt mod on my 7900GT's and I'm loving the 700Mhz core action, to think that even with 1.9v on the 7800's those speeds were still unthinkable, but on to the point. I have a pair of the EVGA 7900GT KO's with the Samsung memory, my only beef is that the memory just wont overclock! I've read that with higher core clock speeds the memory will go up, but I only gained 10Mhz from stock Vcore to 1.55. I just cannot get past 1600MHz. Is this normal? From what I've seen from other users, 1700-1800Mhz is average, I was just wondering what you guys thought about this. I would volt mod the memory, but I've read of all the horror storys that happend days later. If I use some high quality pots is it safe? Just wondering what to do at this point, I'm fairly certain my cards are severely bandwidth starved. Thanks for any input, cheers!
Update: I just ran 3DMark06 and I get the artifacts on Deep Freeze... I guess It's time for an RMA.
When you drive the GPU frequency to its maximum, there is no more room left for increasing the speed of your memory.Quote:
Originally Posted by TehVince
Bring back your GPU to 650 Mhz, and then try to increase the speed of your mem. If you have found a maximum for your Mem at gpu at 650 Mhz, then make small steps with both in either direction to find the optimum.
Be prepared that too high a mem frequency will lower your scores with 3Dmark06 instead of increasing it.
Also cool the Vmem Mosfet properly, and do not use Coolbits.
A fixed resistor is more stable than a Pot to increase Vmem.
The fact that your card artÃ:banana:facts in 3DMark06 can just as well be caused by a GPU frequency that is too high.
Could I add that too much "Heat" could also cause Artifacting. I had 2 x Gainward 512Mb Cards that artifacted at default clock speeds in SLI. One card was cooking the other. Blow lots of Air over the cards & the artifacting cleared up. Running the cards seperately gave no artifacts at all & the PSU being a PC P&C 1Kw Quad SLI affair just wasn't even in the equation.Quote:
Originally Posted by t024484
3DMark 06 is a much heavier load on your System components, compared to earlier versions of the Bench.
Thanks guys, I'll try turning down the clocks and running again. They just looked like memory artifacts to me. My temps are fine, and I'll be sure to get a sink on there A.S.A.P. I've got two 120mm's blowing over the cards, but I'll do the finger test. Does anyone have an opinion on my PSU? It's an Antec 550W True Power II SLi. Do you guys think this is enough power with this volt mod? I haven't had any random shut downs and my rails are stable. I've been looking at a 700W GameXstream OCZ PSU, any thoughts? Thanks in advance.