Some hs/fans for xeon are saying "nocona only" like the CM E3W-N7RSS
but they look the same as for prestonia. Has anyone modified one to fit??
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Some hs/fans for xeon are saying "nocona only" like the CM E3W-N7RSS
but they look the same as for prestonia. Has anyone modified one to fit??
http://www.adventurevision.com/somepictures/42Xeons.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by pokipoki
That was from one of the bulk buys we had. ;)
Boy was that fun...
http://www.adventurevision.com/somep...s/10PC-DLs.jpg
and
http://www.adventurevision.com/somep.../12TwinMOS.jpg
:worship: Jeff
holy mega computer power, Batman :woot:
Not me... that'd be mostly DDTUNG's stuff. :D
theres some 1.6 lv SL6XK sets on ebay right now ending in 9 hours bid $50 now.
seller id: bertkru
He also sells pairs for $120 over at the 2cpu.com forums. I offered him $100 for a pair and his one word reply was "No.". It'd be funny if a few of his auctions closed at $50 a pair. ;)
I have to thank him though... since he said "No" I've come across 2 pairs for $100 TOTAL. :D
Thanks.
I preordered them from there (very friendly). They expect the next shipment around sep. 15th.
Can't wait to get them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pokipoki
Hi again.
I have this Tyan mobo for a server.
http://www.tyan.com/products/assets/...7501xtreme.gif
Tyan Thunder i7501 xtreme
It uses Prestonia LV Xeons.
I am wondering if I could dremel the heatsink holes so they would be a little larger and I could use the Nocoma Coolermaster E3W-NPTXS-04 heatpipes that I already have? :eek:
Around the hole there is white marking and a second white marking 1mm around the first one. Is that a "safe" area that I could dremel, with out damaging the circuit ? :confused:
Thanks for the help
I wouldn't reccomend that, you could very easily damage the board. Best bet would be to try and find another way to mod the heatsinks to work.
Yeah... I don't think you'll find anybody actually recommend drilling out those holes. You never know how close they put traces to them. I know the PC-DL has a couple traces a couple hairs away from the mounting place holes.
Well my xeon machine is up and running and crunching at 133 fsb 16x 2.136 Ghz for now. case 51c cpus 45 and 49c. Ill let it run at this for a while and watch the temps, then go for 200 Mhz :D . did the vrm heatsink reseat it IS like bubble gum!!! :rolleyes: . Did the That u-wire job it was a major bugger, soooo tiny i had to use a tweezer. talk about eye strain.
Why does clockgen show agp at 33 and pci at 16?? None of these little sensor programs works properly, most work mostly right.
Everest home shows one cpu (of 4) running at 0% ?? should be showing something, even though I only have two d2ols on it
You'll have to have 4 instances of D2OL for CPU0-3 to have load
Found an easier way to do the soldered Vcore mod. I'll post pictures of it sometime this weekend. You still have to do the u-wire mod but this Vcore mod should be good for another .15v ontop of the 1.6v the u-wires give you. ;) And there is minimal risk to the 3180 now.
Thats great Jeff:up:,so 1.6vcore is actuel 1.50/55v,so with that mod from you it would be 1.70v,or am i wrong.
If its true my 1.6ghz will do 3.3ghz 24/7 for sure :banana: .
Yeah, I've heard 1.7 to 1.75v is about tops after all is said and done. Personally I'm not going to see because I don't have any kind of cooling except IWTs.
Here's a picture btw...
http://www.adventurevision.com/somep...e-soldered.jpg
It's a blank pad so no risk of knocking a SM component off of hurting a chip. :up:
And the mod is basically putting a 100KOhm VR across this pad and ground. Start off with the VR set to 100K and then work your way down to increase Vcore. Works pretty smooth.
:lol:
And here's the "Poor man's Vdimm" mod with a 4.7KOhm resistor...
http://www.adventurevision.com/somep...rmansVdimm.jpg
It's good for ~2.85v. :D
O boy,yes 3.4ghz is arround the corner :woot: if i can get 1.75v on the damm thing;).
I can test it out next week when i get my ocz520w in da house,great find Jeff:up:.
:brick: my nickel drop'd,i can't do it,dont have my wc-blocks yet :brick: .
I dont think the IWT wont be enough to cool them at 1.70/75v,isn it.
I have lapped the Coolermaster heatpipes with 1500 grit sandpaper. I did notice a change in color after some lapping. It turned copper in some spots. The second one wasn't lapped that much. I just got that mirror look.
The two 2GHz LV SL6XL D1 with sequential serial numbers haven't been lapped.
I did the 1.6V mod on the NCCH. I applied AS 3 that I already had.
PSU is a Fortron 550 EPS, ram is 4 sticks of OCZ 512MB EL ver. 1 = 2GB, ATI 9600 video card.
First I booted caseless, to see if the volt mod went OK. No fans on the heatpipes, but I did put a 15'' house fan to blow air over them and the various heatsinks. I couldn't boot at 200MHz bus. When I set the bus at 166MHz, on the BIOS I was seeing 200MHz. When I was exiting the BIOS from this I had blank screen. On the next boot, with "stop on errors" set at "No", I could boot at 166MHz and 17 multiplier. In windows I could raise to 190MHz bus on full load. I briefly show 200MHz at full load before a crash.
Then I putted the system in a Thermaltake V2000 Lanfire (cute, 4kgr, aluminium case with 4 low noise fans). The thermal sensor of the case has been placed at the bottom fins of the first cpu Coolermaster heatpipe. When I show 65C on the front display, I switched off and I installed two 8cm fans on the heatpipes. Temperature now was around 45C.
The problem is still that I can’t boot properly at 166. :confused:
I boot at 133 and the best I can do is to rise to 180 x17 = 3070Hz at full load. I think that the 1.6v mod generates more heat than the Coolermaster could cope. Possibly, a 1.5v mod would be enough for them.
In a Thermaltake Armour tower with no mods I had 2950GHz stable for 3 months at full load. :cool:
I am not happy with the result of the mods. :mad:
Any help, it would be appreciated.
Ok, just did that Vcore mod on one of my PC-DLs and after playing a bit I'm mad at myself... mad because I've never done this mod in the past. ;) It makes it soo much easier to dial in your voltage for stability. I left my u-wire at 1.45v and then bumped it up to 1.51v to get 3.1v(220x14) stable. I'm also playing with some CH-5 I just received so this is actually a little fun. :D
Wire,
those 2.0ghz xeons can't boot at 200,its not possible,i had the same problem,not booting at 200.
I have exactly the same 2.0ghz xeons LV SL6XL D1 stepp and the do 155/20=3.1ghz 24/7 with IWT on a PC-DL with wire mod,my 1.6ghz LV ES with IWT does 214/15=3210mhz,when it gets cooler that will rise for sure,but those ES baby's gone have wc on there head's:D.
And most inportant those 2.0ghz give's me +-300 cans p/d,and those 1.6ghz ES one's(thks Jeff ;) ) is doing arround 320 p/d,and thats what i like about it:D,next one is coming soon;).
Jeff,i will try that vcore mod next week,when i get my psu,everything is ready to run,just the psu and its running :woot: .
Thanks Rocker.
It's so bizzare that 2GHz LV xeons. :slapass:
I was trying for the highest FSB.
I have a couple of 1.6 LV SL6XK around. I will give them a try when I will find some time, I hope next week.
You should have better luck FSB-wise going with those SL6XKs. I'm at 222x14 right now with a set. I did have a 2.4GHz LV Xeon setup that ran up to 240MHz 1:1 with 2-2-2-5. Too bad I was just running D2OL with that setup and D2OL doesn't care about memory bandwidth.
Good luck. :toast:
Just be a touch careful with soldering. That pictures makes it look big... but the wire and pad are pretty damn small. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by RocKer
Do let us know how you make out. :toast:
I have tried the 20 multiplier with lower FSB. I have booted with 150 FSB and I raised it to 160. It runs for two hours at 3200MHz. I have just raised it to 165 at 3300MHz. I am curious if it makes it through the night. :D
Also the ambient temperature was about 26C today. It is used to be around 30C the previous days.
If you're running D2OL then keep it like that. D2OL only cares about overall MHz! ;)