Printable View
well i end up working late or now i am tring to finsigh up some prommies.my stuff is always last...thats how it goes.the high side is together.but since i am making a benching table with power supplies and on wheels it is pretty complicated and time consuming.
but here is another pic of what i am workoing on at the moment.....top is a machII i just replaced the upper hose and cooler assem.
AAaaMazing.....Siimpply Aamazing!....:toast:
umm do i even wana ask if ur sweating? what kinda temps u got in that room with all that cooling!
Quote:
Originally posted by Pimpsho
umm do i even wana ask if ur sweating? what kinda temps u got in that room with all that cooling!
well that has been a problem before.i have seen room temps aproaching 100f before and it affects the cooling of the machines,but right now i have to increase the wiring into my room.i keep tripping the breakers when i forget and run too much.
i had my ex wifes tanning bed in here at one time so i am going to this weekend wire my stuff into that circuit.i had wired that one years ago to a 30amp disconnect outside on a seperate circuit.
so before i can do alot more i have to rewire the room i guess this weekend i do that one.
LOL....that's funny....my computers are now running on the circut I installed for my wife's tanning bed in the basement. She doesn't use it much anymore.:D
Bowman your work is truly impressive ! i was actually wondering how much money does your costumers pay for all those mods ?
well pm me if you wish to ask,Quote:
Originally posted by Bra!nFreeZe^
Bowman your work is truly impressive ! i was actually wondering how much money does your costumers pay for all those mods ?
but i have no room at the inn at the moment...:(
well been trying to make a cover tonight and another load block.
since i burned up by first one...dont ask how.i hade to buy a bunch of load resistors .to make some more...
and i found the handiest tool:D
a html that will give you excate heat output..damm cool i was doing it the old fasion way..caculator.
check this out.for anyone else makeing a load block it helps alot to figure what ohms you need.http://www.arcol.co.uk/pages/resourc...alculator.html
and here is the big boy i am making. each one of these resistors will put out 92.34watts of heat x 2 =184.68 watts.so i can run both to shut down a cooler and push it to the max.but proberly using onle one most of the time.
the one i was using was 2 of 5. ohm resistors @ 13.59v =73.88watts
the one i been using this week is 3 of a 6.8ohm @ 13.59v=81.48 watts
here is the latest
so now i can go up to 1 x 2.0 ohm @ 13.59 = 92.34 or 2 that =184.68watts
Wow..my name is circled on them! :D
I am curious, how does your cooling compare to Dry Ice.
with dry ice I took that Xp1700 to 3.2 ghz for 14x230.
you know when you take into consideration the history of that CPU, it's really mind boggling that it's still alive.
JC had it, pushed it to death, and get 3.1 ghz for like the 4th high AMD PCMarkscore there is, besides those guys that did the LN2 scores, and posted 3-4 scores ahead of him.
broke some amazing Pifast scores.
annihilated me on CPUMathMark3 (Yeah I remember Jc ;) )
goo-ed it up with superglue, a nice razor gash...
I buy it.
for me, I ran it day in and day out for 3 months at near 2.8 ghz every day, and every score I have for AMD is still with that CPU, every good score atleast ;)
PCmark, pifast, all my best was with that CPU.
my first main Dry Ice experiment was with that CPU, in which I killed the motherboard, by adding too much acetone, and dry ice to the mix, in which it exploded like a can of coke thats been shook up all over my motherboard, and ram and everything else, in which I was screaming mad thinking I killed the CPU...
replacing a CPU of that calibur 4-5 months ago would have been a big task indeed, as there wasn't many that reached 3 ghz as easily as that one...
then it gets to you.
and look what you've done with it, all these top scores, crazy cooling, at the mercy of your madness...
yet it still lives.
damn...
never have I seen one CPU put through so much, and just keep going, that thing really should be bronzed when it dies, I can't remember the last time, one piece of hardware was pushed so far, for so long, and still lived :)
Kunaak,
Love the new sig! Too funny! :D
The only problem I see with using resistors to simulate load is that the heat is spread evenly, as opposed to being concentrated in the center, as it is on a CPU. Heat spread is an important aspect of evaporator design. That said, I can't think of a way, offhand, to better simulate the load.
well you are right:DQuote:
Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
The only problem I see with using resistors to simulate load is that the heat is spread evenly, as opposed to being concentrated in the center, as it is on a CPU. Heat spread is an important aspect of evaporator design. That said, I can't think of a way, offhand, to better simulate the load.
thats why i am machining the bases to simulate the cpu die:D
this was the first one i made
Awesome work, as always, Bowman. I continue to be impressed by your attention to detail, as well as your inventiveness. :D
Kunaak
yea the chip been though hell.it will run soild 3g but the board limits me to 228fsb .i need someone to sell me a 240fsb nf board lol:D
i could get it faster but this 3 evaperator doesnt reach the temps a 2 evap would,but thats the breaks the compressor cant do anymore.
thats why i wanted to keep it i want it to go in the cascade whenever i get it going.i believe it can still set some records.
working on a 3g barton right now,hope i get it also ordered a new 2500 0332 hoping to push it.a 3g barton will do 26k i believe.:D
well havent been showing much on this,but i have been working on evap covers for months.tried lots of designs.still the best is what i did in the begining.a hand fabricated metal cover filled with foam.
now i am working on one to fit amd and intel p4 with the mounting holes.got this one i will finish this weekend for someone watching LOL:cool:
it is only in the rough stages.but with a aluimiun adapter plate on top it will fit a p4.
i am going to try and post a finished pic tommorow i hope on the prommie.
I wonder if the cover couldn't be heavy paper (cover stock) coated with insulative ceramic.
the problem i keep runnning into, is keeping proper pressure between the cpu and evap...trying to lower that TD.Quote:
Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
I wonder if the cover couldn't be heavy paper (cover stock) coated with insulative ceramic.
and without a solid hard material it flexes to much.the cover has to not only insulate but succure the evap down to the cpu.
lexan works but it still flexes and because the lexan still condenses close the the evap because of the pressure applied to the evap where it makes contack,even with that ceramic paint i have on it.
so the metal cover is very stiff.the metal i use as you can see is not thin.it is hard to work with.but i am using wooded dowels embeded into the foam that transfer the load from the outer metal shell to the evap.wood is one of the best natual insulators.so the dowel will not transfer any cold or heat.each down is about 3 " in lenght.
tricky part is you have to place a sleeve for each of the mounting screws to run though.if not it is real hard to get the mounting screws to finally come out thought the cover holes.
i have to pick up some more plastic tubing this morning.i ran out.
but the plastic tubing will guide the 4 studs though the insulated cover and block...I hope:D
What dimensions are the covers?
I got a few questions about the mantifold
Are the bottom of the part of the mantifold that collects all the non evaporated fluid connected to the "other side" of the mantifold?
How do you calculate the cap sizes? what i can see you have one size from the mantifold to the evap and one larger cap tube from the mantifold to the compressor.
perhaps the answers is somewhere in the thread but stopped read at the thirtheent page or so. this thread is so looong
I guess that the compressor har to be quite powerfull to handle all this heat but how powerful does it have to be?
Bowman, did you consider this kind of wood:
http://berkut.neostrada.pl/minifc/evapfrost.jpg
With a -55C evap its surface was @ 16C in a 23C ambient... Its 22mm thick and conduct's heat VEEERRRYYYYYY bad...
That looks like a composite or compressed particle board. Does it absorb moisture? Does it keep the actual contact surface aligned being as it's mounted so high up? What will you insulate the evap with to get rid of all that white stuff? Just curious.
http://berkut.neostrada.pl/minifc/evaphead.jpg
http://berkut.neostrada.pl/minifc/coolinghead.jpg
Pics with VEERYRY old insulation (now i use armaflex, got me 5C comparing to that poliethylene foam)
It doesent absorve moisture, its water proff. It keeps the contact cause i glued it with cyanoakrylyte glue (super glue :))
Its mounted rather light on that pic, the mobo hardly bends... Normally the mobo is 2-3x as bent but i started using a 1cm aluminium plate on the back so it doesnt anymore... I scre the evap untill i feels the screws wont go any further (not using force but "by senss")... that would be like 70kg up the stock athlon...
I C...thanks for clearing that up for me. :D I assume you mount the plate on the back somehow so as not to short the mobo...maybe just like a regular backplate install?
nope, i use a cutted cap from a cocacola bottle (so the foam does not crush) and insulation on the back side..
ah and one more thing- shim's suck really hard, they make big problems with insulating cause they transfer cold from the evap to the cpu, socket and mother board, when i use "bare core" w/o any "helpers" the mobo never gets even cool to the touch, when i tried shims i had worse temps and condensation on the mobo