it was a nice mod.
it dropped my load temps from 50C's to 42C's.
only got 8C's load off my load and no gain in o/c yet.
temp drop is nice though, can't complain! :)
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it was a nice mod.
it dropped my load temps from 50C's to 42C's.
only got 8C's load off my load and no gain in o/c yet.
temp drop is nice though, can't complain! :)
I just wanted to check in on this thread with my experience.
I removed the ihs from my week 17 venice with ease, first try in about 7 minutes. I used an old-style shaving razor bought from Walgreens ($4 for 6 blades generic package). The razors bend very easily. I initially tried a hobby knife blade but it was too thick, even thicker was a box cutter blade.
After applying electrical tape to the blade all but 3mm from the edge, I gently inserted the blade intermittently along the sides, then once down each side I stuck the whole thing in. After each side was done I gently stuck the whole blade back under each side a pried just a bit at the corner using the leverage of the blade. After a few pries, it easily popped off.
The next step was to protect the core, so I put a shim from an old 9700pro around it, which fit perfectly after I sanded it down to the right depth.
The last step (since I'm using the stock heatsink while I prep my TEC setup) was to adjust the height of the heatink retention bracket on the mb. I simply unscrewed it from the motherboard and dremmeled off about 2mm from the bottom. Now the heatsink makes perfect contact.
Alot of people say you must use bolt-on coolers once you remove the ihs, but I found that shaving 2mm fromt he bottom of the plastic retention bracket works great.
Just finished pulling my IHS off, I was a little intimated with some of the things people had said ... but as stated before just be very careful and DO NOT force the razor blade. Just work it around slowly. I found that starting on the corners and working my away from each corner was easier than starting at the opening people had stated they had done. Not saying my way is any better, but it happened to easier for me. This was done on an older NewCastle so we'll see what temps are soon.
The thermal paste seems to be applied well, but mine was fairly hard, almost like putty. Does every one else have the same consistency I do?
http://www.1081ds.com/pics/ihs/ihs2.jpg
http://www.1081ds.com/pics/ihs/ihs1.jpg
I've got a picture of E6 Venice.
Comparing in this post.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=491
This area is reserved for when I remove my IHS. :slobber:
Will EDIT Tomorow. :)
I've got a picture of E4 FX.
Comparing in this post.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=491
Well... I removed it. And I chipped 3 resistors. No PCB scratches, and no Core damage.
And it still works. OMG
And stable too. No drop in temp yet, but thats A) Because I need to remount the Zalman CNPS7000 better. B) AS5 hasnt 'settled' in yet.
Just removed mine on my E3 Venice 3000+, ah nothing beats a nakkid CPU. After remounting my Koolance CPU-300 block (had to place a copper disc between it and the core because of the gap) load temps are down from 54 deg C at 300*9 to 40 deg C! Also, this has allowed me to reduce vcore down from 1.675V to 1.6V. AS5 is still settling so am hoping to get better than this. Overall, I'm very happy. As mentioned before, don't force the razor blade - take your time and everything will work out fine. ;)
so, has anyone actually crushed a core yet? I really really want to take the plunge, i'm just scared because my water block mounting bracket does not have any springs. Right now i just tighten it down grdually with both screws until its snug and the block wont slide at all anymore. oh yes i;ve got a x2,3800. OR do you think the core is large enough that i dont really have to worry about crushing it?
menlatin
Sure they have. And scratched the CPU out of existance. And bent the pins to hell.
Sure you can crush it. If you don't want to worry about then leave the IHS on. This is xtremesystems :) We like to worry and crush cores hehQuote:
do you think the core is large enough that i dont really have to worry about crushing it?
what type of glue can I use to reapply the IHS?
im going to do this to my 2.8c, even with great contact, im seeing the temps shoot up 15c within 2-3seconds after starting prime...
ive always thought i had contact issues but with an xp-90 and an xp-120 i didnt see any improvement at all from the 120, its like the extra mass isnt there... got to be core to IHS contact.
just plain 'ol Elmer's wood glue.Quote:
Originally Posted by ocZZ
ok, seriously, you can use arctic silver thermal epoxy. But don't call it glue.
He probably wants to reapply it with the black thing AMD uses to "glue" IHS... what is that?
i wouldnt use that as it looks like a goop, might hurt contact, honestly i would either use something like krazy glue or just nothing at all. good TIM contact would hold it in place pretty good imo.
I used RV sealant, basically a silicone based product , just used a dab on the corners and clamped the IHS on.
good call UnG
how come you put it back on?
I put it back to stock cooling, reduced the voltage and set it to run 1.2Ghz at low volts with IHS on.
It was the Venice for my Dads HTPC, does 2.7 plus on air with IHS off and a BT. Higher for 3D benchies. Was easier to get the stock cooler to fit with IHS on. (when I say stock cooler, it's the stock cooler off a 4200 so it has two heatpipes).
Anyhow, it worked well, instead of AS5 I used really gooey white Antec stuff between the core and IHS. Worked just as well as it did before I took it off.
I got it off fine and haven't crushed my core, and dont think i really need to worry about it. I made some foam feet that compress to about .027" (fully compressed!!) and the core is about .034" tall. I;ve tightned my water block down pretty darn tight and pulled it off to see a nice grease spread pattern, so i;m no longer worried. It did drop my temps almost 8c at load. and now im prime and mostly super pi stable. i ran 2 instances of super pi and 2 instances of prime 95 and 1 super pi failed, but the other 3 did fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by IvanAndreevich
Will a stock cooler from a retail venice make proper contact once the IHS is removed?
I want to remove the IHS on my opteron 146 :P. My main worries are bending pins or cutting through the PCB by accident...
also, how thin shoudl the razor blade be? i already scratched the pcb board and it still works =P
edit: i am also using an xacto knife.
I came across this article http://www.overclockers.com/tips1197/
Has anyone noticed this issue, particularly with a d-tek whitewater?
I'd love to pop the lid on my cpu, but this makes me somewhat hesitant. I suppose I could always sand down the cam, but I would be afraid of cutting through and damaging the lever mechanism.
This is definity scary. I would prolly need about 60 stiches after I cut myself. One question though. Should you leave processor in board while doing this so no pins get bent and acts as sorta a "vice" to handle processor a little better? I really big like 13 ring size and could palm a basketball at like 14.. not very nimble person.
good luck working a razor around the proc socket, all those nice caps to rip off.
better off just holding it and being careful imo.
use the sponge that came with the cpu and then put that on something spongy, the pins will go into the cpu pad and won't move at all. ;) of course, that doesn't stop u from cutting into the pcb, ehhehe. :slap:Quote:
Originally Posted by Zebo