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take a look at this:
http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/4...mod16ir.th.jpg
i think 2000ohm gave about 2.95V on my card. or was ist 2.85? don't remember exactly but it should be no problem as long as you don't go below 2000ohms. :nono:
but you really should get yourself a multimeter for this kind of dirty work. aviable for just a few bucks. for sure cheaper than a new gfx card. :D
hey burnout i use NIBITOR all the time to change stuff on my 7800gtx. there is an easy .1V to be had on ur 68gt just by uping it in the bios. send me a copy of ur bios and i will have a tweak:)
cheers crom, il have a go my self and see if i can work it out myself. then if that goes t*ts up il send it to you. il follow this conversion up over at www.zombielan.co.uk with you crom
cool cool burnout.gd luck and cant wait to see some hardcore over clocks fomr ur 6800gt!!!!!:):):):)
Do I measure TP10 with a DMM while it's running?
yes. for voltage measurement TP10 (VDD MEM) and TP9 (ground) are perfect.Quote:
Originally Posted by bigboi86
just like the picture i posted before.
does anybody know where exactly the sensor for 'ambient temperature' is located? i really wonder where things can get warmer than 40°C with my zalman mounted. :confused:
How would you expect there to be any voltage if its not running??Quote:
Originally Posted by bigboi86
BTW: NEVER measure resistance when its running ;)
The ambient temp sensor must be in the lower left corner where there is the row of FETs. I placed a nice big P3 heatsink over that are and the ambient temp went up.. it wasn't until I realized that the diode must be underneath, that I realized whats happening. Before airflow got to it.. but now its covered up. I tilted the fan to blow from the side, and ambient temperatures took a huge drop.
The circuitry that reads and controls the GPU temperature is around the top-left heatsink mounting hole. If I position a sweaty finger around there, I can get GPU temp reported to drop to 32 or go up to 70s, from a normal of about 50.
You mean this diode indicated below ?Quote:
Originally Posted by ***Deimos***
http://img382.imageshack.us/img382/1...odes9ki.th.jpg
This diode is a schottky diode IR1F and it is part of the VGPU regulator (the same component is also used for Vmem regulator, see the same foto).
Since you got considerable temperature increase with your setup temperature sensor MUST lie in that area.. but where ? There are not too many **unused** diodes nearby. There are two diodes sited near regulator (see foto above) and at least D505 is part of regulator. But how about D504, at least the position would be optimal (=near the hottest MOSFET's) ? This could be proofed by freezing D504 while observing temperature value
:rolleyes: (maybe I'll do it later)
Its obviously not the schottky diodes. The heatsink contacts it, as well as all surrounding TSOP (Vreg IC) and SOP (FETs). I also thought it might be Q504 or one of the other nearby diodes. But, it could just as easily be on the opposite side of the PCB. The heatsink dissipates heat from very hot components nearby.. and that propagates to both sides of the PCB through interconnects.Quote:
Originally Posted by SikaRippa
ah now that i found a picture that seems to represent my 6800LE layout i can show you where i attached three little heatsinks. somebody wanted to know if i remember correctly.
http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/9880/aaa3pj.jpg
especially the very big silver box gets really hot while playing. cooling this one may be a good idea. but many other cards seem to have other components in that place.
I have a Zalman BGA ramsink on the big one.Quote:
Originally Posted by ya_master
Those "silver boxes" (unless I'm mistaken) are the inductors that are essential to the operation of a buck converter. They should be labeled L12, L13 and L14, and look like coils of wire. In my case they are horizontally wound type. They accumulate energy during a fraction of the switching time and release it for the remainder, thus reducing the 12V supplied to the voltage regulator and producing 1.2V or 1.3V or whatever. (The best analogy I can think of is pouring water into a bucket with a hole in the bottom... the cup is too much water at a time... but the bucket acts like the inductor storing and slowly releasing that energy/water.. in a slow trickle)Quote:
Originally Posted by ya_master
Perhaps my overclocking problems are not worn out capacitors, insufficient power transistors, but the small inductors.
Now, I need to figure out where I can get datasheets for these to perhaps compare...
Are there any markings on yours? How high were you able to overclock your card?
EDIT: The black IC in the top left of your picture is OBVIOUSLY not an inductor.. FYI
Yep, those two are inductors. The top most for memory regulator and lower for GPU. In the GW cards (and many other) inductors are indeed completely different, see figure below:Quote:
Originally Posted by ***Deimos***
http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/5...evx29pk.th.jpg
I think the 'GW model" = "copper winding is visible" should be better in the sense of temperature since open winding radiates heat easily.
right but you can't cool that one with a heatsink and the gpu fan is far away from cooling that one. the heatsink i glued to the big silver box on my leadtek card does good work and it doesn't get that hot anymore. but with the gainward 6800LE of my sister i burnt my damn finger when touching that thing with visible winding. :mad:Quote:
Originally Posted by SikaRippa
and you can't mount a heatsink on that one...
That is true: a heatsink can not be placed so easily to that model. But I think you can put/glue a small/proper size even top of 'GW-model' to improve performance (=cool down) in some extent.Quote:
Originally Posted by ya_master
Do you have a stock Vgpu, 1.1 V ? Increasing VGPU, say to 1.3 V, have a large impact to temperature of this inductor and the MOSFET's sited backside of the card.
yes. stock vgpu is 1.1v on both cards (mine and my sister's).
her gainward is running at 1.3v and my leadtek is running at 1.2v (later i will go to 1.4v when cooling is perfect).
the big silver box on my card showed already some change in color on the topside. so my heatsink was a good idea i think.
I think 1.3 V might be quite risky value if no extra cooling (heatsink, fan) is added for MOSFET's (inductor). In this forum has been before reported some cases where a high VGPU (1,4 V, 1.3 V?) has caused MOSFET's burning and one case where that inductor dropped off (!!) due to smelting of lead = very high over temperature.Quote:
Originally Posted by ya_master
hey guys. iv got the leadtek 6800le and iv managed to get 16*6 pipes unlocked, and 395/900 on clocks (from 300/700) and stock cooling, but things have totally ground to a halt.Quote:
Originally Posted by ya_master
i stuck some aluminium heatinks onto those little silver boxes with ceramique, but it hasnt made a massive difference. seems prehaps a little more stable at 395/900, but thats maybe due to cleaning all the cr*p outta the fan :/
Nice memory clock, but you need that core a bit higher. Try getting aftermarket cooling on the GPU, and mod the bios for 1.4v, that should get you some nice clocks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hazza
Mine has run 1.4v for a very long time now, the mosfets do get hot though.
yea im gonna try put a zalman vf-900cu on it, when pay day comes round.
loaded my bios into nibitor, and apparently vgpu is 1.1v?
yes. by defaultQuote:
Originally Posted by Hazza
1.2v should be no problem
1.3v only works with gainward cards afaik
1.4v should work but you should make sure your cooling is perfect
After >18 months my card is still going strong running non stop 24/7 at constant overclocked speeds 100% glitch free and stable as a rock:banana: , dual 80mm front pcb cooling works very well with sinked MOSFET's/IC's etc...
It pays to go overkill... :fact:
remember me guys? :banana:
now i need to voltmod my new point of view 6800gs 256mb. but how? :D
any working mods here?
i found some mods via google but i think i'll ask the real pros first. :cool:
my old 6800LE is now running in my girlfriend's computer. :toast:
her old 9800pro began to start sucking. best opportunity to upgrady my machine and getting rid of my old sh*t. :toast:
yeah that was like me for the first month or two, until I noticed "the problem". And its a bugger its so intermittent.Quote:
Originally Posted by stealthbomber
Ok, fast forward over a year later. Aug 2006. I sold the XFX 6800nu. Went back to TNT2 M64 16MB, found the old GF4 400MX, borrowed my brother's Radeon 9600pro, and then settled on a Radeon 9100 (I need the DVI port for the LCD).
I'm not sure if you recall, or if I posted this, but in addition to my computer failing in 3DMark2005 after N consecutive runs, there was also intermittent boot up problem. Sometimes it just wouldn't boot.
This morning I discovered what I believe to be the same problem again. But now with Radeon 9100. At boot up, the there is a clicking noise. Hard drive right? Disconnected all drives and its still there. Try disconnecting optical drives and floppy. Reboot. Still there on boot up, clicking away like a hard drive, or memory count. Unplug the PC Speaker.. its gone. Strange... now, about an hour later, I turn off the PC, and try booting up again. nothing. Repeat 20+ times, reconnecting drives, turing off psu ... nothing. Not a beep.
Theory: this clicking thing happened several times in the winter, and just now again on cold morning. I think the motherboard might have cold solder problem. Or, it could be CPU not sitting right... I dunno. I've had nothing but constant headaches with this Athlon64 (and the xfx 6800).