Can you or someone elaborate on this statement please? I currently have my 3-pin CPU fan connector in the 4-pin header...Quote:
Originally Posted by derektm
Thanks.
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Can you or someone elaborate on this statement please? I currently have my 3-pin CPU fan connector in the 4-pin header...Quote:
Originally Posted by derektm
Thanks.
You can't control its speed with Abit EQ.Quote:
Originally Posted by WrigleyVillain
Yeah, turn off the CPU Fan warning in the BIOS, and plug the fan into a different header. UGuru can then control it.Quote:
Originally Posted by WrigleyVillain
The TT120 has a variable resistor/potentiometer mounted on a backplate to control fan speed.
CN :)
Look at my pwm temps with the bolt mod ???
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/g...7/untitled.jpg
This is at idle.:down:
Ive used mx2 paste and have re done it to be sure of contact on all the pwm`s. The HS is warm to touch but only just..?
This is with 6 mins of prime .
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg211/wils07/1.jpg
Thats when running large FFT`s
Yeah but why use that when you can use a feature of the board to control it? Abit EQ can control its speed depending on what temperature your cpu,sys, or pwm temp is.Quote:
Originally Posted by C-N
something not right there wilson, my PWM is 40c idle and 57 load after 10 mins of large FFT's and thats without the boltmod
I wasn't really disputing the pros & cons but I think its all down to personal choice at the end of the day. I find you can leave the TT 120's fan @ 1200 ish rpm or silent for everything including gaming & when you want to run Orthos/Prime just wang it up dead easy.Quote:
Originally Posted by derektm
Ive done a 550FSB suicide shot, on air with this board. Not stable enough for anything though.
535 FSB is rock solid stable on my E8400.
Wanted to know whats the absolute wall...
so, if i have it right, you can get into the bios but it just won't save anything...is that correct?...if so, have you tried setting bios defaults, saving them and then re-enter the bios to manipulate what you want....OR...if it posts after saving the bios defaults, let it boot into windows before trying any changes for overclocking.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scope666
my other thought, what hardware do you have installed?...any special audio cards, raid cards something like that?
Quote:
Originally Posted by wilson
did you add any fans to the PWM and NB bridges?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
I ended up fixing it again. I did a mish-mosh of suggestions I found on the web. I manually set all cpu parameters and voltages, FSB ratio, vdimm, and turned off all "shut down if there's a problem" features and hit save changes, and this time it saved successfully and let me reboot. If anyone else ever runs into this, that's what I would recommend.
Thanks as usual Ace! :-)
man every time I wanna click on "Buy" I stop by here and I see someone posting a problem.:( Makes me hesitate for second:rofl:
This is predominantly a problem cause by OC'ers right?
Out of the box, this motherboard works fine for those who assemble and use it without OC'ing.:confused:
that's alright at least you guys got answers:up:
What are you waiting for? Load your cart to the brim and squeeze the trigger. Do it tonight and you can have your toys this weekend. This is a very good board with a lot of people using it so there is a lot of user support as is evident with this humongous thread. Go ahead, jump.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpl Ledanek
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scope666
Your problem sounds like the one I'm experiencing now. It doesn't happen every time I change a BIOS setting, just every other time or so if I adjust a critical setting related to the CPU or RAM. This issue only came up after I switched my PSU to a Corsair HX520, so I assumed it was similar to the compatibility issues that some people experienced. Once I can boot with the BIOS setting, I don't have a problem until I make another few CPU or RAM BIOS changes. It's annoying, but I can live with it.
Its a good board. The only issues I have scene are the contact from the pwm cooler and minor issues with bios's but that is just the nature of the game. Yes it will work right out of the box with maybe adjusting the memory voltage being the only thing required.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpl Ledanek
I've already been trying to oc my 8400 a bit. in combination with an Abit IP35.
I have some guestions:
-if i put 2.0 or 2.2v in my bios (what my memory needs to get up ) i only see in everst all the time : 1.92v :/ It looks this is a realy voltage because my memory have errors at 1000mhz+.
-If i overclock, should i change the 63% of CPU GTLREF
-I also have a vcore drop . bios is f.o. 1.3=> cpu-z shows 1.20v.
What should i believe?
-Also everest shows my bios version is : 13 ?? Are there updates so one of my problems could be fixed?
Yes i have a 40mm fan on the pwm and im now water cooled on my NB. It was ok about a week ago with temps of about 35-40 idle. But now it seems to be 48-53 idle.?? Is my temp probe for the pwm broken ,
It might be worth re-doing the bolt mod; it might not be making proper connection.
I did a quick test on the new Beta 16.B09, with my E8400, and this new Bios sucks big. For starters it makes my idle voltage vary (according to Cpuz 1.44). Ie. 1.31-1.30, now this might not seem like a big deal to many people, BUT how bout doing the same thing at load voltage, and it has made the vdroop worse. Ie. at load 1.31-1.27, 1.26. At least with my other Bios there was no variance (Bios 14), and vdroop wasnt quite as bad. Also thanks ABIT for adding a couple more memory dividers that are completly useless with a high FSB, unless of course this board has hidden slots for DDR3. So what was the point of this BIOS again??? It was meant for E8000series CPUS?
I had an earlier version 1.0 board and did the mod just by putting screws in place of the springs, and didn't think any further about it. Now I just received a new version 1.1 board for another build, and after reading some recent posts, still have a question.
I understand that I can remove the small white pad in the center of the central heat sink. However, can or should I remove the brown pad over the heatsink for the voltage regulators - or are those necessary for electrical isolation? Can I use a conductive thermal compound there?
Ben
You need to remove the brown thermal pad and use some non conductive paste for the Pwm`s like Mx2 as AS5 is conductive.Quote:
Originally Posted by BenSanford
Thanks for the advice all.:)
Are using one of the AUX headers to run it and controlling the speed through Uguru Fan EQ panel.
Speaking of which..
I clicked on Optimise in the Fan eq settings in set up and now all the fans are very quiet.After leaving the fans settings i returned to the main screen of Uguru and saw their is a mode select button when i can select different fan settings Quiet,turbo, normal etc.
I selected turbo and (of course the fans grew louder) however Uguru locked up,tried pressing Ctrl+Alt+Del but in the end had to reboot.I have tried all the other fan settings using the mode button but each time it just locks the program up.I have tried quite afew versions of Uguru but each time it ends with a reboot.
Current version is 3106.
Anybody else had this problem.?
I had quite a few problems with uguru until I had updated to the latest version, you might want to give it a shot. The latest version that I've seen is 3.107 and you can get it from here:
ftp://ftp.abit.com.tw/pub/download/utilities/uguru/
I've got my TT120 plugged into aux1, at first it seemed like it would control it when plugged into the cpu fan header, but it started acting up and wasn't speeding up and slowing down sometimes after reboots. After I moved it to aux1 those problems went away..