all voltages were kept at default value afaikQuote:
Originally Posted by monza1412
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all voltages were kept at default value afaikQuote:
Originally Posted by monza1412
Can't wait for 2103 to be made official, with a changelog of "support for new CPU." :lol:
E6850 here I come!!Quote:
Originally Posted by miochza
Quote:
Originally Posted by monza1412
At 400FSB you should be able to leave the chipset voltage on Auto or 1.65V this depends on the memory speed. If the memory speed is 1000MHz or greater (which will be very hard) 1.75 ~ 1.85V will be needed. You'll have to raise all the volatges to MAX (ICH etc.) at 445FSB with memory running on the 800strap or at 890MHz for 445FSB, I also raised the Vcore on my E6400 to 1.40V at that speed, but not because it needed it....
Now here's the weird thing. If I left the memory strap at 533FSB and overclocked as high as 440FSB, Vcore for my E6400 could be left at default? I was using the PCPower&Cooling silencer 750W so it had nothing to do with the PSU, BUT what I did mention in the review was the P/4-pin power connector?
For the 975X chipset this should be an 8-pin connector and I believe a major issue with this board may be the power cricuitry isn't given current in the correct configuration, even though it seems robust enough regarless with an 8-phase stage and the mosfett coolers. Asus may have thought Conroe wouldn't clock that high off the 975, at 445FSB the chip is running 150W. I'm sure this is taxing the power circuitry and then affects the NB MCH requiring more voltage.
Nice article/review Liquid3D. I have built 14 systems on this board all have worked perfectly. All are set at 400fsb except for 2 one is set at 413,his cooling threshold and mine is set at 413 right now also As I am playing with 4 sticks of G.Skill 6400HZ running 1:1 timings set at 4-3-3-4. I have had this board for 1 year now and it is a great board. Clock for clock it will run with anything and out run most. My system resides in a case and functions 24/7.
I did not set out to build a bench machine, just an extremely fast stable benchable machine to earn it's keep in my room. It has done that every day since I bought it. First with a 950ES Presler running daily at 4800mhz to a 6400 Allendale running daily @3400 to my e6600 running daily at 3825mhz. All 3 systems were and are just smooth and flawless. I will be keeping my board for a long time to come. The bench numbers in my sig let you know it's fast but more importantly it is also rock steady. I love the damn thing.
WZ
Does anyone know where the thread is about making the P5W ready for overclocking?
It was called 'preparing for the beast' or such, but can't find it...
Is this what you're looking for?
lol - it's in my sig too :)
@~aoe~: indeed that one :p
@WeldZilla: have you done mods on your motherboard, or just stock.
Has anyone managed fsb 400 or over with 4x1GB sticks? With two sticks it's primestable 406 fsb (vfsb 1.40V,MCH max(1.65V),ICH Auto), but with 4 sticks cannot get primestable even 400. I'm using 1707 bios.
Can anyone recommend a good heatsink to replace the stock one on the NB of the DH Deluxe? I'm using a Big Typhoon for my CPU, and it has pretty good clearance. I don't need anything too amazing, just wanna be able to raise the vMCH a little without having to worry about it.
I like the Zalman ZM-NBF47, but I'm not sure if it will properly mount on my board, or if it will even make a significant improvement over the stock HS.
Also, can I simply cut the heatpipe that goes from the stock HS to the HS on top of the MOSFETs? Or is there some more elaborate way that I need to separate them?
I'm using the Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II as suggested by Lawrywild.
I tried the Thermalright HR-05, which is a superior heatsink, but the retaining bracket provided isn't suitable for this board.
Note that the Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II isn't really suitable for the SB if you're considering that - I found that the retaining screws were too high and prevented correct seating of the graphics card. HR-05 SLi works fine though (excessive for the SB i know...).
I think that my s. bridge is overheating, I've used some very complicated high-tech equipment (my finger), to measure the temp of the heat sink, and I've found that it's untouchable. Though, I can't find any software that measures the temp of the s. bridge. Does anyone know of one (that is preferably free)?
I need to be sure that it's overheating before I send it back because I've only had the board for two days and had to buy XP for it. If I get a replacement then I get to buy a new XP license. *yay*
SpeedFan 4.32 reports a number of temps from all the chips/sensors that it is able to read. On this board, it shows 3 temp readings from the Winbond W83627DHG chip, namely CPU, AUX and System.Quote:
Originally Posted by LordXenu
Now, I could be totally wrong here, but I sort of assumed that the System temp referred to the SB.
I have noticed that the AUX sensor temp increases under load, whilst the System temp remains stable. That made me think that the AUX sensor was maybe the NB, and the System the SB.
I'm happy to be corrected if my assumptions are incorrect...
I asked the same question a couple of weeks ago :)Quote:
Originally Posted by cbell
It is as simple as cutting the heatpipe. There should be a small amount of liquid in the pipes (most likely water), but nothing to worry about.
The inside of the pipes also contained a copper-coloured crystalline solid - not sure what it was (more copper maybe?). In order to avoid the risk of anything dropping onto the board from inside the pipe after installation, I chose to remount the MOSFET heatsink the opposite way round, so that the open ends were facing up (tower case).
Anyone able to flash back to a older bios, I experimented with bios 2004and I want to switch back to 1601 (unlocked multi) and everytime I try to flash back, it says older bios detected, please download latest file from ASUS website.
HALP!
I don't believe that is correct. The temp reading for the system is low, no where near the temp of the heat sink.Quote:
Originally Posted by ~aoe~
Better way is too place the chipset cooling assembly onto stove burner @ 75% heat for about 10 minutes. While hot, gently twist the mosfet part and it should come loose from heatpipe. then you are left with empty mosfet cooler, and intact heatpipe, should you decide to restore stock cooling!Quote:
Originally Posted by ~aoe~
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luis_GT
You, my friend, must flash using a floppy, and afudos. using the proper switches, you can force the flash.
Telling me the switches would be helpfull,Quote:
Originally Posted by cadaveca
What I've used so far Afudos /iP5WDH.Rom /pbnc /n and still won't work, yes, I renamed my Bios to P5WDH just to try the Alt + f2 Flashing.
Just use afudos 2.17 like the other people who asked this question about a billion times..
Thats the thing... I am using Afudos, I tried EZflash, I've tryed Alt + F2, non of them work. Hell, I'm even using FCG's Flash.bat and it won't work. Just a few months ago I flashed back from 1707 to 1601 with no problmes... I'm stumptQuote:
Originally Posted by lawrywild
Ok, I finally flashed back, 2.21 and 2.17 didn't work, but I found Afudos 2.07 and that one worked.
FYI:Quote:
Originally Posted by ~aoe~
- System/Motherboard temp sensor is NOT inside either of the bridges:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...54#post2052854
- don't know when LawryPooPooHead is going to fix his "first page" - LOL!
Mine run 8 x 400 with four memory sticks. Prime and TAT stable. But not Orthos...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Family man 72
No mods on any of the boards I have built on. The boards are fine. I have replaced the dry crap under the NB heatsink with AS-5 that's it.
Hey cadaveca contrary to popular belief you can go home again...Think about it.......
WZ
how can I make the esata working with my seagate esata hard drive? I have been unable to do it it works fine with usb 2.0. Thanks