[QUOTE=ZenEffect;5138236]Jentek PSU might be the culprit here. If it isnt providing stable voltage, or quick enough transient response it can create the issues you are describing. I will get a bios corrupt message if I power off at the exact right (guess its actually wrong) time or if i power cycle alot rapidly.[/QUOTE
I got a new PSU as the Jentek turned out to be 5 years old as i got it from my dads old comp. System seems to be running fine now.
[QUOTE=GordyUK;5138932]tbh, ive never even heard of a Jentek PSU before you mentioned it :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by ZenEffect
glad to see its working well for you now :)
I am loving my G1.Sniper M3 board but I do have one small gripe. On power on the CPU fan doesn't start for a few seconds. It then spins up to quite a loud RPM before dropping back to being silent. Seems strange to me but not enough worry to go hunting for. Has anyone else experienced this?
Parts list is in my sig.
A little background first. I originally purchased the UD5H back in June. First one wouldn't post at all. It had power to the power switch, but nothing would happen when I pushed it. I took it back for a replacement and everything worked flawlessly with the new board. It has been running fine since that time. one thing I didn't realize is that the @Bios software was running on my PC. I must have installed it as part of the driver install process and didn't realize it. I found out when I came home a few weeks ago to see @BIOS running and attempting to download a new BIOS update. I let it do its thing even though I've never updated a BIOS like this before.
Fast forward to 2 days ago. I boot up my PC and get a message that my BIOS is corrupt, and that it's loading the backup BIOS. That's fine I think, when I have time this weekend I'll update the first BIOS and all should be well. Yesterday when I try to boot I get no love. The PC powers up the fans for a second, I hear a click coming from what appears to be the z77 chipset area, some strange character flashes on the debug display, and then it shuts down. A few seconds later same thing happens. It just keeps doing this over and over.
I pulled out everything but 1 stick of ram, and no difference. I decide to call it a night and pick up again today. Today same thing happens, I try clearing the CMOS, manually switching the BIOS, leaving it unplugged for a couple of hours, swapping the ram to a different slot, no change.
Now it won't even power up. The power button still lights up, I hit the power button and nothing, doesn't even click or power up the fans.
So the changes that I am aware of:
1. a recent BIOS update, but it seemed to work fine after that update.
2. I recently plugged my case fans into the MB headers as my fan controller died. I set the fan profile to silent. It seemed to work fine for a number of days after that change.
There have been no new software installs or updates that I'm aware of.
I've contacted Gigabyte support, but have yet to receive a reply.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. As it stands I can't even get to a point where I can flash the BIOS.
The BIOS switch works when the system is powered on, but not actually in an on state. So if you get a light on your power button, then switch the dual BIOS switch and see if it works.
Also try a full scal CMOS reset, IMO get a jumper and short the ClearCMOS pins, then take a screw driver and short the battery connector leads(remove the battery first) and do this for a small period of time, and of course unplug the PSU from the board first.
It could be that @BIOS did something, that is very off it would try doing that.
DoGMan: yea that is normal.
Thanks for the reply.Quote:
Originally Posted by sin0822
I've powered down, switched the BIOS switch, then tried restarting. No difference regardless of the position the BIOS switch is in. I've also tried switching it with power, again no difference.
I've done a full CMOS reset. Unplugged PSU from wall. Turned off PSU switch. Removed CMOS battery. Jumped CMOS reset pins. Held in CMOS reset switch. Left everything in that state overnight. I'll try shorting the battery connectors, but have a feeling that won't make much difference.
After a CMOS reset, it does the thing where it starts and stops a couple of times. After that it won't respond at all to a power button push.
Right now I have the MB out of the case with just the PSU, CPU, 1 stick of RAM, and the monitor hooked up. I even tried without the monitor.
id say get an RMA. Something must have gone wrong with @BIOS..
@mfarlow: maybe the PSU is faulty? Try a different one.
Tried that. Same issue with 2 known working PSUs.Quote:
Originally Posted by vailr
Yeah it's been 3 months since I've purchased it, so I'm betting they won't just replace it.Quote:
Originally Posted by sin0822
I'll probably just buy something else. 1 bad Mobo is one thing, but 2 in a row doesn't make me feel too confident in this board.
@mfarlow..... If I were in your situation I would try shorting the bios chips out to see if I could force the board to boot from the other chip. I have done this once before when I killed my P67 dual bios & have to say it took many goes to finally get the board to boot but it eventually did.
If the board will not power or spin fans this may be of no use but worth a go anyway. You may also have to power on off your PSU to reset the board but a less garbled post screen or bios light switching from main to backup should give you some evidence that you are getting there.
Thanks Sin is there any way to over ride this behaviour?Quote:
Originally Posted by sin0822
Thanks for the advice how do you short the bios chip?Quote:
Originally Posted by C-N
Right now I'm at the point where it won't even spin up the fans, but I'm still getting power to the board (the power button lights up).
Short pin 6 & 7 with a screwdriver this will force the board to try the other bios.
THC and I started to see how the UP5 kicks along
We threw in some 2666 hynix based modules and took it for a quick n dirty 32m run , exploring the DRAM overclockability alongside BCLK , CPU H100 - Memory air
http://www.odoc.dk/files/images/test...m-web-1024.jpg
yea the UP5 isn't half bad. I have the BCLK WR for Z77 with it, 117 almost(116.95)
Dogman, i don't think there is anything you can do, when it spins full throttle that is because it isn't being controlled, but then when the SIO kicks in the control it slows down.
damn Oliver, that's nice
Hey guys I got a little issue over here & wonder if anyone can help out?
The problem is I've reached the limit of something most likely my RAM or my CPU & wonder if anyone can tell me what happens on their board when they hit the IMC or RAM speed limit.
Below is about the max I can reasonably bench, it’s not as efficient as it should be but it runs. Just after this 2930 ~ 2950 it will fail SPI instantly irrespective of voltages or timings. Also as I creep over 2940 my board drops USB.... windows still runs but you can’t control it as the USB mouse/keyboard stops working.
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m...A646M19375.png
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m...A646M19375.png
@C-N: Ivy Bridge CPU specs require that the memory voltage stay within 5% of 1.50 volts.
Your Team Xtreem LV 2666 in comparison seems to require 1.65 volts (at the frequency you're running at).
One solution would be to replace with lower voltage memory, such as the 30 nm 1.35 volt 4 GB Samsung sticks.
Either that, or be happy with what your 1.65 volt memory can do.
Also note: the latest CPU-Z version is currently: 161.5
Thanks for the reply vailr, I am happy with what I got just would like some feedback from people as to what happens on there board as you max it out.Quote:
Originally Posted by vailr
As for the CPU-Z version, it works so I leave it alone but thanks anyway for the info.
@C-N Did you try to up imc and dram trm. voltages?
I find my board/setup only needed more IMC voltage to run a bit more BCLK @ 100 .92~.93 is its sweet spot. At the above settings any more than .94 made SPI fail the more you put on the quicker it failed. I also find too much IMC voltage brings on a vdimm wall.... too much IMC voltage means the more vdimm I add don't help & fails SPI quicker & quicker if you get my drift.
I did briefly test dram termination voltage but I have to admit not properly I just moved up & down a little but didn't find a benefit so I left it alone. Do you find it helps & if so what sort of percentage against vdimm do you find works for you?
Its ram chip specific for my asus board. Generally around 42% from vdimm. Samsung seems to need less v than bbse/pscQuote:
Originally Posted by C-N
Thanks mate I'll give it a try & ye I get the IC specific bit its always been like that with the stuff I've had too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dumo
Quote:
Originally Posted by C-N
Got mobo swapped to Asus P8Z77-V PRO all seemed fine but occasionally i would get 1 boot loop. Swapped out for Gigabyte UP5 TH same issue 4 boot loops with my i7 2600K. Swapped i7 2600K to new one thanx to Intel and voila boot loops gone. My issue was CPU not mobo or mem at all that means UD5 was fine...oh well ended up wid a crackin board and a luvely i7 2600k @ 5GHz this time with less volts & a better IMC.
I take everything back !! Nothin to do with dual bios and crosstalk ! im absolutely happy now
MY prev cpu was either degraded or simply weak IMC strange cos once it booted everything was fine.