Tweak late release: I agree with you; this tweak is the result of field testing with Evilclocker (Thanks EC!) http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...hlight=EpsilonQuote:
Originally Posted by Philwong
and this work also led to this: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...2&postcount=74
In retrospect, my regret is that the thermal pads we used in these applications have a sticky pad, which makes it a PITA to remove and clean up. This will obviously change in future productions.
Sounds like the Komodo is shaping up to be a great block. Despite all the issues, I'm still pretty satisfied with the Komodo in real world apps such as games. Dirt 2 and Modern Warfare 2 never got my GPU and VRM beyond 52 and 62 degree celcius, respectively. My rig is still very new and I'm expecting the temps to improve after the loop is fully bleed.Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe
For the record, it is hot and humid here in Singapore. Average room temp is around 30+ degrees, while my casing temp levels out at 45d.
Phil
is there anyone going to be making blocks for the coming 5870's, msi lighting or asus matrix or Eyefinity 6 Edition
Eyefinity 6 edition would be niceQuote:
Originally Posted by bill_d
So is there a definitive winner among the 5870 blocks yet?
from what ive gathered Badfastbusa, either the EK or the Swiftech block are the best. With the newly added tweak to the swiftech block Id probably say it is the best all around and easiest to install.
Thanks! What was the tweak?
-edit, and how do I know if I am getting one of the newer ones that have the tweak?
I guess originally with the volts up a little the vrms got pretty hot under load. Gabe (from swiftech) posted on here that he had been testing a new tweak to fix this.Quote:
Originally Posted by Badfastbusa
Basically you remove all the thermal pads on the block and clean the area. Then you apply TIM to the vrms and mount the block. Temps are much better from what has been posted.
Im not sure if they will be making new blocks without the pads already, i sent gabe a PM yesterday asking the same question and have yet to get a response. Either way though, you just need to remove the pads im not too sure they are going to offer a block without the pads.
Some temps with my 5870 + EK block, it's right after I started it up for the first time so temps might get a tad better once the thermalpaste's curing time is over.
http://forumbilder.se/thumbs/d20201090756Aa359.jpg
And some pics of it.
http://forumbilder.se/images/f302010121931a556.jpg
http://forumbilder.se/images/a302010122028d510.jpg
Gotta love these EK blocks. :D
Nice temps. And the block looks great too :D.
Now I am wondering if I should get the ST komodo or the EK... becasue if the vrm temps drop with thermal paste then the komodo is the hands down winner, it seems to run way cooler on the core temps.
Well i had the same debate and im ordering the ST Komodo as it seems to be easier to install and temps are similar if not better than EK block. I like that the ST has the standoffs built into the block, whereas with the EK you have to fiddle around with the standoffs and i have heard from a few people its a PITA to mount
Glad I won't be alone LOL
See last sentence here:http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=476Quote:
Originally Posted by Circaflex
Well, with you on our side, it seems a win win situation... I am for sure going with the komodo now, which place to get one is the question now... :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe
Again Gabe, any idea when they gonna be available in Europe?Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe
Does anyone know the gap between the vrm and waterblock for the EK-5870 block with standoffs? I am going to try shimming that area with some copper and using ceramique to improve the temps a little more. My choices are .4mm and .52mm shims.
Measure the thickness of the depression in the thermal pad. (it may have expanded after removing the heatsink so use thinner shim first) Old internal combustion engine trick for checking valve clearance when installing high compression pistons or HP cam but modeling clay is used for that.
I should have done this earlier. Before the .025" copper shims the vrm temps were around 70C with the stock thermal pads.
http://imgur.com/pOqfV.jpg
copper shim? any pic of what you exactly did?
I'm sure that would help others considering the same thing...
I bought a sheet of .025" thick copper from Ace Hardware. I cut out squares 25% bigger than the vrm chip with tin snips. Took a hammer and flattened each square. I then used ceramique on both sides of the shim and stuck them on the corresponding vrms and then installed the waterblock. It took literally 15 minutes from start to finish (screenshot).