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Anyone else's look all cracked up like this? It doesnt leak but doesnt look right. I also didnt over tighten the pump but when I look at it 20 mins later i found that cracked also.
I wish there was a better to bleed it other that having to sit my case on its back >.< Its to big and doesn't like it lol.
http://i877.photobucket.com/albums/a...stkrh/res1.jpg
http://i877.photobucket.com/albums/a...stkrh/res2.jpg
http://i877.photobucket.com/albums/a...stkrh/res3.jpg
Pics 2 and 3 look like someone took isopropyl alcohol to it. :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by kaytaro
Looks like the die wasn't cooled evenly after injection molding and then the part was not properly annealed afterwards. Polycarb is ornery like that.
The front is Acrylic for the extra clarity and the pump mounting bracket is acrylic cut on the laser as well. And yes that DOES look like isopropyl alcohol. I remember the first time I whipped off acrylic with alcohol to prep for paint and heard that cracking ice sound lol. (laughing at my reaction at the time, not your dilemma) There is no way a part cracked that badly gets past QC either obviously. Also a version with top ports available for sale at ModdersMart and Direct from the PrimoChill site.
My advice is to replace it, even if it isn't leaking because SOMETHING went after it--either something it was cleaned with, or the fluid your using.
kaytaro did you wipe down your reservoir with anything that might have alcohol in it? what did you fill it with?
Woot for EvilVision! Thanks for the renders Rocky.
The First image is the brushed black anodized. Second is the polished aluminum. Last is the silver (clear) anodized shown from the back so you can see how the plate fits down into the basins on the T3. No more flat 2D looking face plates, and the frame makes the bottoms of the basins look like windows or sight glass. These will be machined from solid 1/2" thick aluminum.
http://geno.boxgods.com/black_anno.jpg
http://geno.boxgods.com/polished.jpg
http://geno.boxgods.com/silver.jpg
The thickness is about 1/16" and they will mount with acrylic double backed tape around the perimeter.
Nice faceplates!!!!
Another question for you, BoxGods (I know you're trying to get other work done - sorry ;) ):
You mentioned it's easier to paint the T3 without the face plates. Any hints on how best to paint it? I may not paint it - and just wait or the faceplates, but just curious at this point.
This was in the review thread for those that didn't see:
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
They are pretty easy to paint. If your not in a huge hurry I can send you some pre cut gerber paint masks (my plotter is out for repair). These will also be available in a cheap (like $5) painting kit for the T3. I can also post the masks for anyone wanting to print them and then cut them out.Quote:
Originally Posted by shazza
Here is my paint procedure:
Install the T3 in your case and check the clearance between the face edges and your case. If the fit is fairly close then use some 320 grit wet/dry sand paper on a sanding block and sand the the edges back a little. The goal si to remove just enough so that the T3 still fits into your case with the extra thickness of the paint.
I then put the masks down in the bottom of the three basins so that after you paint and they are removed you still have windows into the reservoir. I use blue painters tape around the back side where the frame contacts the body of the main reservoir. This is fast and easy to apply as you do not need to be too careful, you just need to keep from painting the body (though you can paint it if you want too I guess).
A quick wash in hot soapy water to get off finger prints and such and dried with a lint free cloth (aka micro fiber rag). I do not like tack cloths for painting, but some swear by them--your choice
I then tape newspaper onto that first band of blur painters tape to protect against over spray. I leave this row of news paper about 6" longer then the end of the T3 so I can slide my hand in to hold it while I am painting so I don't paint my hand.
I also am a big believer in primer, but again some don't bother with it. Your choice. If your just painting the T3 then it is not really a necessity, but if your painting your case also I WOULD recommend using a primer on both the T3 and the case so that the hue of your paint matches, (unless your case happens to be clear too of course ;)
For brighter colors like white, bright red, silver, yellow etc. use a white primer. For darker colors, Black, charcoal, dark blue, maroon etc use a gray or black primer. For plastics I like the painters touch type made for plastics like this:
http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(jf...px?SKU=1170257
Apply one or two thin coats of primer...in fact, rather then rewriting all the painting how to stuff, for those needing detailed instructions I wrote a tutorial a while back that you can find here. If you ARE painting your whole case, you might as well read this one too.
It took me longer to write this post then it would for me to paint a T3 lol. My point being the instructions make it sound harder then it is.
Hope that helps.
If there is any interest, I can always do a painting tutorial specifically for the T3.
Also, DB is getting in touch with Smooth about them offering some pre painted T3's. The T3 is particularly suited to their magic skills because it has DEPTH. Imagine the frame painted silver with rivets like an airplane canopy for example. I will let you know if that pans out.
Thanks, Geno ... wasn't trying to wear out your poor fingers :)
I like the clear in my current Torture Rack build, just thinking about the next build. I'll most likely go with the faceplate (and another T3, of course). I highly recommend folks interested in painting read the links you provided - I've found them very helpful, and am actually getting up the nerve to try painting a whole case (scarrrry!!!!).
Quote:
Originally Posted by shazza
And never too busy for you. Meaning all you guys. No really. :)
It IS a little scary but one thing people do not seem to know is that just about ANY mistake you make can be sanded off and fixed. The single most important elements in a paint jop are sand paper and patience. Good prep is KING.Quote:
Originally Posted by shazza
And there is no other mod element that feels as rewarding either.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
I only used distilled water bottled from the store. I didnt clean it with anything. Every item in the loop was brand new gtx 480 rad, dd 285 gtx blocks, the res, swiftech GTZ, Koolance flow meter, and a 120 gtx rad, with PrimoFlex Pro tubing. It still running ok no leaks, but I'm kinda scared they might crack through.Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
Is there anything that could have been in those from the factory that could have been left over and I should have cleaned out, if so the I guess its my bad, but other than that its only seen pure water.
Can you please link it for me? I look and can not seem to locate it.Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
You should have it replaced. Call Primochill on Monday or e-mail them. They should get you taken care of.
No, They are pressure tested with plain tap water.Quote:
Originally Posted by kaytaro
I just got off the phone with Brian from Primo and he said just to start a ticket at PrimoChill and he will square you away.
Wow, thank you so much! i will do that asap!Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
You think those cracks look bad, apparently I didn't take a well enough look at the MSDS sheet on the VFD fluid that I use at work and use in my system. My Typhoon III has horrendous cracking and leaking problems, all but 3 of my Ghost Compression fittings have sheared off at the base of the threads. I figured I'd slam a dab or 10 of superglue where the backplate mates with the pump to seal up where I was leaking through the o-ring after a week of use. Yeah well I'm currently waiting for my machine to bleed out and looking for another D5 and Typhoon so I can throw in some regular distilled and get back up and running. :( Oh and to make it even nicer my HK3 block is all super pitted from either pumping some high speed air bubbles or from my liquid as well. Well time to nab another one of those.
Does anyone know where I can find another one of these TyphoonIII's in stock so I can get back online?
Distilled Water FTW :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Altspacen
Sorry, had to do it. I have been talking with BoxGods because I got those same cracks, though not as bad on mine. I am working on an RMA. It seems another week or 2 and Primochill should be back in stock. :up:
Oh yeah its bad, I might be able to fix the leaking from the backing for another week but at the rate its going I might not have a res by the time they are back in stock. Just my luck too, my computer res falls apart, my beater car threw a rod through the block, and my race car needs a headgasket. Seriously its a good thing I haven't been laid off yet otherwise I'd be eating a pistol by now. [\rant]
:( That sucks. I'm bleeding mine right now. It did suck installing, but it mad up for that with filling it. That thing is a breeze to fill. Bleeding is a none event too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Altspacen
With the leaks from my Banana Power 45 rotarys and the ones that have been springing up since I put this all together AND Rma'ing one of my 4890's I must have drained and filled my system over 20 times and I will say, its great to just slap a barb fitting on the side of it with a tube and plug for easy fill/drain. At first I thought about the fact that I drained most of the air out of my system and did not have any type of "expansion tank" in the system, can anyone comment on that? Everything I see is - drain all the air out, but don't you want some in the top of the res to act as an expansion tank so you don't have a water grenade on your hands?
What was it in the coolant you used that did that? Ethylene glycol?
I'll have to find my MSDS for my fluid again I have it laying around here somewhere. I don't doubt that its got some glycol in it as we can use that same fluid in out outdoor machines that are outside year round and exposed to freezing temps. *shrugs* live and learn right?
Yea, I think it does. you did the void the warrenty on it. :( Would be a good excuse to grab some silver and distilled for next go around.Quote:
Originally Posted by Altspacen
I don't wanna sound all Poly Anna, but things are NEVER that bad. Tomorrow will be a better day man.Quote:
Originally Posted by Altspacen
No, you want to get as much air out as you can. A D5 at BEST could generate 5 PSI and every T3 is pressure tested to 4 x that (20 psi) for 5 minutes. Bubbles/air will make your pump louder and rob some performance so bleed off as much as you can.Quote:
Originally Posted by Altspacen
Don't feel bad about using the wrong fluid. I once spent three days building a curved for heat bending and building the rotating hatch for for a mod and to prep for paint I wiped it down with denatured alcohol--the most benign of things you would think...I sat there sorta stunned for almost an hour and watched it crack into a thousand pieces. Sounded like an ice tray lol.
http://www.boxgods.com/global/images...les/A94-13.jpg
http://www.boxgods.com/global/images/articles/A94-6.jpg
a LOT of guys have learned that lesson the hard way.