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Let me clarify...
I will put a little solder on the wire, then place the wire on the place I want to solder to, then place the S. iron in both.
I have never soldered on a board before...I have no extra boards around. This better not kill my card!!! (I better be careful)
Do you have an old console system or any thing in your house that has a printed circuit board in it?
Nothing. :down:Quote:
Originally Posted by jason4207
I have soldered a lot before, just not on printed boards.
EDIT: I think I have a NIC card somewhere. I will definately test on something before I solder that board.
I got a needle tipped iron and small solder so I should be ok....should.
I used some sandpaper to sharpen the tip...works very nice!
most important part is always pre-tin the wiresQuote:
Originally Posted by jas420221
btw, i see some people use 500 ohms or 1k ohms, whats the differences?
Thats what I am going to do!!! :clap:Quote:
Originally Posted by Bail_w
From what I understand (please correct me if I am wrong) its the accuracy of the voltage (at higher volts?). There is a post a page or so back that says that I believe.
1k is more readily available, so a lot of folks use it, but 500 will give you finer control over the voltage and is preferred.
so you set the VR to max (let say 500ohms), then solder it to the circuit. then adjust the resistance while the system is turn on and monitoring the vgpu readout? is that the correct way?
Yes.
Okay Here is my vgpu mod, but when i turn the trimmer cw nothing change. the vgpu stays at 1.21v :confused:
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...w/IMG_0339.jpg
Edit: nvm, after i turn like 20 times, now it works. :)
I don't know, but I think you are working risky down there with the VR, the wires are to much naked above those tiny resistors... One little wrong move and maybe a part of the naked wire touches a other resistor and it byebye card... ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bail_w
Dunno becuase I never did vmods with solder, so correct me if i'm wrong :) .
EDIT:
I mean the naked wires aboven the card itself, not attached on the VR...
@Prodigys The picture was taken from the top view, but i take it from side view, the wire never touches.
with the BAR style VR's, which direction do i turn the knob to get it to max resistance ?
[B]
--------------
|____________|O <----knob
| | | <----pins
[A]
looking at the above picture, do i turn the knob towards A, or B ??
*edit* wow, ok thats not gonna work :(
Use your DMM to measure the resistance.
ericab, as jason mentioned arbitrarily pick either end pin and test it for it's resistance using the DMM, most people like to use the one that results in an increase in voltage when turned clockwise
and jason thanks for keeping this thread alive by answering questions it's really apreciated man
a couple of questions...
based on what Bail_w said,
after i've done the soldering and reinstalled my card into the pci-e slot, what should the GPU resistor be set to (BEFORE turning on the power supply) ? 500ohm? 250ohms? 100ohms? 50ohms ?Quote:
so you set the VR to max (let say 500ohms), then solder it to the circuit. then adjust the resistance while the system is turn on and monitoring the vGPU readout? is that the correct way?
also; what is the MAX recommended voltage we should be putting through the GPU ?
also, lets say i want to get a core of 900MHz.... what voltage do you expect will necessary to achieve this ?
You want to measure the resistance of the VR before you solder it in. Set it to 450-500 Ohms. Once you solder it in you'll be measuring the resistance of the entire circuit, and it should be ~13-15 Ohms iirc.Quote:
Originally Posted by ericab
Max voltage is personal preference. So far I've stayed at 1.35v-idle on good air. If you're on water you should be able to go higher...or if you have cold ambient temps on air. LN2/DI...even higher. Temps are very important, though. Once you get over 50-55*C more voltage won't help much...it might make things worse.
Some guys go much higher on the voltage. If you're fine w/ possibly killing your card then go for it, but if that is going to put your PC out of commission then you should probably be more conservative.
As for 900MHz...I haven't gotten there on air, but perhaps 1.45v-idle? :shrug: It really depends on how good your chip is. It seems like it takes a lot more voltage than might be prudent to go from 864 to 900MHz.
Best bet is to start out at like 1.25v-idle, and see what she'll do...then move up a bit. It sounds like you just want to set it to something, and go for it, but that's not the best way to find a max. :up:
well son of a bitc*.
my second card down the drain.
ill never be volt-modding a gfx card again
So what happened?Quote:
Originally Posted by ericab
did everything by the book;Quote:
Originally Posted by runmc
powered up the comp;
powersupply made the loudest, shrillest noise ive heard; sounded kinda like a smoke alarm; weeweeeeweee......... you get the picture.
plume of smoke blew off of the PCI-E power connector port; terrible smell.
computer shut down;
wouldnt boot back up, stuck on "CPU INIT"
cleared CMOS
removed card, and replaced with my trusty 7950.
ideas?
:slapass: <--- voltmod
Show us pix of your handywork...
too late. ive already got it wrapped and packaged; wires removed.Quote:
Originally Posted by jas420221
Ouch, dude!
Too bad you didn't take any pics...I would have liked to see it.
Was this your 1st time soldering? How about fine soldering?
It's always a good idea to double-check all your connections w/ a magnifying glass under good lighting. I also like to measure resistances and check continuity (to make sure I haven't shorted any near-by components) before putting the card back in the PC.
You also need to inspect the card to make sure no solder blobs or small pieces of wire went stray. I like to hit it w/ some canned air for good measure as well.
Maybe soldered to an incorrect point instead of ground
Yup, something must've gone wrong from the beginning.
Too bad ericab didn't take a pic of the mod area...