Sure, but i don't finish today :(
I'm still waiting for package with fitings, tubes, and other stuff.
So today i make only test mount.
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Sure, but i don't finish today :(
I'm still waiting for package with fitings, tubes, and other stuff.
So today i make only test mount.
No problem. I am an expert on the waiting game. I know how that goes... ;)
But i make photos ... with no fittings :)
Sounds good!
Hey guys, have any of you tried to use a infrared thermometer to read temps? Would any of you take those reading over temp monitor software readings? Is the latest bios now giving us more accurate readings?
I'm thinking of getting one with a laser site on it and from what I've seen they are pretty accurate.
They are accurate but you would need to direct the laser pointer onto the center of the IHS to receive an accurate reading.
Exahertz you could use a metal plate approach on the south bridge like the Swiftech MCW30
I can confirm that the SB is getting heated up by the heatpipe. I had my rig apart Wednesday to prepare to add a Noctua U6 passive cooler to the NB.
In the process, I popped the heatpipe off the SB to make removing the NB heatsink easier.
Well, the Noctua I went to pick up wasn't in stock (despite what NCIX's website claimed), won't be in until later today. So I had to put the rig back together using the old Asus parts.
But when I did so, I left the Republic of Gamers plate off the SB, and bent the heatpipe so that it was making NO contact with the SB. I didn't even bother to clean the SB or even use any more TIM.
Fired the system back up, and now my SB temps are 10-15c lower than they were before, staying around 35-40c, it used to run 45-55c, staying about 5c colder than the NB on average.
Now I'm sure SOME of that temp drop is just because I removed the ROG plate and the tiny heatsink is now getting air from three sides, but the bulk of it is just from taking the heatpipe off of it.
Long story short, other than for bling, I don't think you need to do anything exotic to cool the SB. I plan on leaving the factory heatsink on there after cleaning the surfaces up for good thermal contact, which should give me even lower temps than at present.
I also run Crossfire, so there's no clearance for a water block even if I wanted to run one, nor any of the tower heatipe air coolers, so I'm extra happy with the fact that you don't need much in the way of cooling there.
I suppose you could do a variation on the above, pop the cap on the SB, make sure the heatpipe makes GOOD contact, and use that extra exposed surface area and a 40mm fan to help cool the NB.
Oh, and that ROG plate? Makes a spiffy looking cover for my otherwise bland looking Apogee Drive. :)
I'll have some pictures later today, after I get back from NCIX. Before I do that, I need to talk myself out of picking up a D-Tek CPU block and Liang DD pump to add to my bastard H20 120 Compact setup. :)
The Apogee drive mounted on this mobo and a CM 832 makes more vibration noise than I like, even though the mobo is now rubber mounted, and there's $20 worth of Dynamat on it and the mobo tray.
Cools great though, with the 120 and 220 rads and 1k RPM fans in the CPU only loop, I never exceed 65c on a B3 Q6600 at 1.48v/3.6Ghz.
Thanks for the post. ;)
I know when I was removing my stock cooling, I kept the heat mainly pointed at the NB. I was amazed how fast, and hot the SB temp rose too. My hand was on it. :)
That might be the mark of a good heat pipe, but when our NB get's much hotter than our SB, I don't think the pipe is doing the SB any favor.
When I get up and running, I think my SB temps may have a shot at giving some of the water cooled SB boy's a run for their money? I guess it would all depend on how many blocks in ther loop, and their RAD's cooling ability. :)
My TJ09 also has a dedicated video card fan pointing right at the SB, pulling air directly from the outside of the case. My basement keeps holding steady at about 59 to 60 degrees fahrenheit or 15 degrees Celsius.
All I know is between my dedicated 12CFM fan, and the Enzotech Forged Copper CNB-S1L sink permanently attached with Arctic Silver Adhesive, I should be Xtremely covered.
Time will tell, but I am expecting some good things out of my SB. :)
RAID and GPU controller correct?
LC Asus Maximus Formula by Malik
http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/3.jpg
Where are my stuff ???
http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/4.jpg
Aaa, maximus - i found you. So let's go with LC
The story begins:
http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/5.jpg http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/6.jpg
http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/7.jpg http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/8.jpg
With blocks:
http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/9.jpg http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/10.jpg
http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/11.jpg http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/12.jpg
http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/13.jpg http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/14.jpg
Backplates:
http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/15.jpg http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/16.jpg
http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/17.jpg http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/18.jpg
http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/19.jpg
With tubes:
http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/20.jpg http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/21.jpg
http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/22.jpg http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/23.jpg
http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/24.jpg
Final view:
http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/25.jpg http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/26.jpg
http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/27.jpg http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/28.jpg
http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/29.jpg http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/30.jpg
http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/31.jpg http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/32.jpg
http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/33.jpg http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/34.jpg
http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/35.jpg http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/36.jpg
http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/37.jpg http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/38.jpg
http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/39.jpg http://shackit.pl/malik/MaximusWC/40.jpg
This is not the end of my new revision. Prepare for upcoming updates ...
Wow, nice colors you got going there!
Looking good. With backplates that fancy, you need to cutt holes in your mobo tray, and install a window in the rear! ;)
They are nice.
It will be fun to see what kind of temps you get when she is up and running.
Looks Super Clean!
Good job so far. :up:
Malik you ownz ! One of the best WC what I ever seen. Good job man !
Wow nice build Malik. That's a lot of parts on one loop... what kind of radiator(s) do you have?
I'm using Thermochill PA 120.3 with six Noiseblocker XL2 fan ;)
http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/3...sdddjf6xb4.jpg
love those backplates malik!!!
question how do white out the backround in your pics..???
photoshop? any guides on how to???
I'd also be interested in knowing how to use Photoshop. Love the way some ppl blur the background, but have no idea how to use this app. I guess I should 'rtfm' :D.
This photos are made in something like this:
http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/9...2872058kt6.jpg
It's shadowless tent.
Tell me Malik what tubes you use ? Its Innovatek ? Looks like Tygon R3603...
Is there an official barb on the EK NB block that is your 'IN', like the D-TEK?
BTW - I incorrectly posted my order shipped the 17th. It actually took a couple business days to process, and understandbly so.
I just checked my e-mail (I don't do often) and had received: 12/20/2007 Delivered Your order was sent today with new S-Max top.
I am chilling out for a few days again, and think it just takes time for us Ohio boy's! :)
I didn't want to let bad info that I posted on the matter go uncorrected. ;)
My order actually left the nest on the 20th.
Malik czesc!! :)
These are the NK parts you used for the MAximus right?
EK-Supreme - Acetal
EK-NB S-MAX Acetal NB chipset block for ASUS Maximus SE!
EK-NB/SB ASUS 3 - Acetal - AUSS X38 chipset boards (SB)
EK-Mosfet ASUS 3a - Acetal (X38)
EK-Multioption RES ??? rev.2
EK-Mosfet ASUS 3 - Acetal will not fit on the Maximus right?
I’m a little worried about my Mosfet installation. Reviewing in my head everything that I did I can recall that (even though I read the installation instructions) I may have over tightened the Mosfet blocks! I looked at it and saw the board was a little bowed so I loosened them and then gently retighten them but I'm afraid that I may have squished the pads I cut and might not be making very good contact to the center Mosfet chips.
Just thought id elaborate a little on that and see what everyone’s consensus is.
Main points of my question are:
1. What happens if you over tighten the Mosfet blocks and bow the board?
2. Would it be better to use a single pad (like using the original from the stock Mosfet heat sink) or cut a bunch of little squares and place them on each individual Mosfet chip?
3. How much heat will the Mosfet chip generate? And will there be any symptoms other than catastrophic failure that will indicate that the water block is not properly cooling the Mosfet chips?
4. How much would a back plate help?
5. If I feel uncomfortable with the install, should I not power up the PC and go back and redo the install? (Everything is installed in the case and being leak tested so this is Last Option!)
6. Ware do you buy Mosfet back plates?
Here is the way I would answer...
1. If you over tighten the Mosfet blocks bowing will occur. As long as you haven't cracked your mobo, all is well. You may just not be making the best contact you could be on the MOSFET area.
2. I vote 1 big single pad myself...
3. I am not sure what the symptoms would be of an over heated MOSFET.
4. Backplates are supossed to help mobo bowing allot.
5. Tough call... Not sure. :)
6. That is the real question! Most are making their own I think? I wish every block made came with a backplate standard.