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Marin: Not bad, but the neon bluish hue in the shadows feels unnatural to me. I'd try turning down the tone-mapping strength in PM.
evil-98: You got the highlights preserved nicely, but it seems you lost all of the detail in the shadows, such as the back of the van and under the tree leaves. What tone-mapping method are you using to convert 32-bit to 8-bit? Have you tried the Local Adaptation option?
Will do Metric.
I also posted this in the Macro section but this is also a HDR.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/42504877@N00/3297858851/
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3632/...a33cdf44_b.jpg
HDR is most effective when the highlights and shadows are in extremes from each other. some of these shots are unnecessary because you can just add a bit of fill and do some recovery on the highlights instead of taking all these exposures and taking the time to edit them.
here's my first attempt with color/outdoors HDR
total of 3 exposures:
http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/8707/901jk1.jpg
http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/8548/900ey6.jpg
not a big fan of the pic itself, but love the extra detail that HDR added to it.
c/c :welcome: :up:
edit: couldn't resist messing it up a bit:
http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/2864/grain.jpg
Playing with HDR using LR + Photomatix, 3-shot bracket +/- 1EV. These are all default settings. So far I don't know how to make them with less "candyland colors."
C&C welcome.
The cliché Singapore skyline. It's on every postcard.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3279/...271d2f1f4c.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3539/...20f659d870.jpg
Different angle. Love the clouds. Hate the lens flare :mad:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3006/...b2b6dd0088.jpg
Bungee towers at Clarke Quay. Passengers are strapped two at a time to this metal frame, which gets scarily flung around. I'll pass.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3622/...d835d89596.jpg
I like those, Kibbler. A good use of HDR.
hoax - that last one has a definite "Fallout" look.
That's simply the Saturation slider. PM doesn't do a good job with saturation so I leave it around 35-45 and adjust it further when the image is back in LR.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kibbler
As for the lens flare - just get out the Adjustment Brush (K) and use the Spot Removal tool, it will take care of it easily.
Nice pics.
+1 Kibbler, nice picsQuote:
Originally Posted by shazza
Thanks Shazza, too kind :yepp:
Great shots Hoax and Kibbler.
these are my "Fire In the Sky" shots from sunset today.
http://v-lestat.com/pics/outside_hdr_1b.jpg
http://v-lestat.com/pics/outside_hdr_3b.jpg
http://v-lestat.com/pics/sunset_fire_b.jpg
http://v-lestat.com/pics/sunset_fire_c.jpg
Hi all :)
So you guys are basically taking identicle shots with several different exposure levels, then mixing them somehow?
They all look great by the way :up:
Yes, that is the idea.
if your camera has the 'AE BRacket' option in the menu change it to +2/-2 default is 0.Quote:
Originally Posted by Xello
it takes 3 consecutive shots so be sure your using a tripod or sitting the camera on something that wont move. free hand it by all means if you have steel nerves and wont move the camera.
there is a program you can try called Photomatix that will allow you to play around with HDR and tone mapping.
that program is what i used to produce the 'Fire In The Sky' pictures above.
but the other guys/gals i believe are using a mix of photomatix, and adobe photoshop and photoshop Lightroom to produce all those magnificent colors and saturations.
i need to take a couple of pictures at night to see if photomatix will allow you to get more saturated colors than what i have seen thus far, because in all honesty i can only get photomatix to produce richer blues and reds. greens never get very rich.
but maybe i am doing something wrong.
Lestat, after your HDR conversion you should load the image into your editor and finish it there. That includes things like saturation, which are handled by Photoshop, Lightroom, etc much better than PM.
PM really should be used only as an HDR merging tool, so you can obtain proper exposure before your final edits in your other app(s).
ok i thought i read that somewhere, use PM to merge the HDR file (which honestly doesnt look much different than my auto expsoure picture. only slightly slightly richer.
then use lightroom to really get down and dirty with the detailing.
i like all my pictures but the 2nd one is my favorite. it really looks like a fire on the horizon.
If it doesn't look much different then your scene did not have a dynamic range that exceeded what the sensor could capture and thus did not require a bracketed exposure + HDR to capture it :)
interesting because the 3 exposures are clearly different in that the "dynamic range" was quite appearant.Quote:
Originally Posted by Soulburner
i have not used the raw files yet and increased the exposure time. the camera does a -2...0...+2 just like most other cameras with AE Bracketing.
2 steps doesnt produce much dynamic variance that i can see, although its quite obvious one is brighter and one is darker than the 3rd picture.
i honestly have not done much reading at all on good HDR editing, and i need to, but i thought the AE Bracketing was enough to produce the quality HDR photos i am seeing.
shall i change to manual and go to more extreme exposure differences? or i suppose i can just use the raw files and change the exposure there.
HDR is needed when you have very bright and very dark areas in the same scene, where one exposure would be a compromise between the two. HDR can capture the high, low, and in between in multiple pictures and combine them for that "ultimate" picture we can't capture with one digital image sensor exposure. If your scene doesn't contain this wide dynamic range then HDR won't benefit you as your sensor can already capture it in 1 shot.
+2, 0, -2 is ideal for most cameras.
Hope this makes sense. Maybe post the 3 images, and your final result and we'll take a look.
That's a good explanation...Quote:
Originally Posted by Soulburner
It's actually totally different from how the post-processing effect is used in video games then heh :)
mmmm,,, it is somewhat the same HDR in video games is simply used to give you better lighting effects. its meant to show you a more realistic lighting, which in a way is what HDR photography is trying to do.Quote:
Originally Posted by Xello
all the pictures you see are fake, but if you look at a real HDR picture it looks much more realistic.
Wow, those are simply beautiful.
another sunset out my front door.
more clouds tonight as it rained off and on all day.
i used photomatix to combine a series of 12 pictures all taken at various exposure levels. 4 auto exposure, 4 over exposed, and 4 under exposed.
http://v-lestat.com/pics/sunset3.24.09c.jpg
What are the best programs for HDR's???
Are there any good free ones floating about? or how about plugins for photoshop or aperture??
i dont need anything for aligning the photographs as i have the 50D which does the captures one after another and i will be doing them all on a tripod
thanks
My first multi exp HDR from D40.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3565/...c0824785_b.jpg
I really like that pictuce accept the gras at the bottom. Cut that out and you have really nice pic!Quote:
Originally Posted by Lestat