I'd recommend cutting out the front fan grille for more airflow, since you'll need all you can get. Also second getting a slightly faster fan and temp controlling it or something.
I'd recommend cutting out the front fan grille for more airflow, since you'll need all you can get. Also second getting a slightly faster fan and temp controlling it or something.
Yeh but lian-li use alu rivets, super soft, just dig n twist and its gone. Steel might be a problem, didnt think of that...Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
I can guarentee my method leaves less mess in the case where rivet was, and makes less mess removing it. :)
ya that tecnique wont work on steel rivets idont tihnk. handt realized that lian li used al revits on their cases. I had to drill a few out before on a V2100.
Haha, im just so used to using alu cases, much nicer to deal with than steel - come to this century :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
i just grab the metal plate and just start twisting. Comes off pretty clean. The metal is not as hard or strong as you might think.
I figure I should let you know how I removed the rivets on mine...
Ok first of all I used a drill on all the rivets that can be accessed from the front. I started with a relatively small drill bit and kept moving up to larger ones until the rivet sort of fell off. Unfortunately, my drill was too big to get at the rivets on the bottom for the floppy bay.
Those rivets were a real PITA. There are four of them on the outside of the unit. The way I got them off was to first hammer a nail through the middle to pop out the middle portion (not sure if that is necessary or not this was the first I have dealt with rivets). Then I got a flathead screwdriver, situated it up against the side of the rivet and hammered it until it chopped off the rivet. Much finaggling later I finally got the rivets off. You can then bend the floppy bay off.
A word to the wise though, the 3.5" enclosure is rivetted into the outer shell which is connected to the case. You dont need to remove those rivets, only the ones on the front and the 4 on the bottom.
Hope that helps some.
Hopefully I wont need to remove the floppy bay. Although I rarely use the floppy it is nice to know that it has a post. But i might also remove it for the reason that the metal there looks relatively thin, and might be prone to vibration with the pump situated on top of it.
Thanks for the advice on removing the rivets. I drilled them out then used my dremel to cut the tabs for the 5.25 bay above. The dremel actually worked well on the floppy bay too and I had it off within 2 minutes! :)
http://www.jpop.com/gocchin/pa180b.jpg
Looking good Gocchin. Are you gonna do cpu and gpu with that loop? if so it would be interesting to see how you tube it. Looking at the other user who used the PA160 he did a cpu only loop.
Looks nice, it probably would have been a lot easier for me if I had a dremel :) I was considering buying one but the PA160 ate up all of my money hehe.
this one im gonna be watching. the p180 looks really tempting now... but ill probably build me a box instead due to lack of money! my q-tec is ready to be swithed out!
Well after you said it would be a pita, I figured I did not want to waste too much time, so I just popped down to Home Depot and bought the cheapest dremel they had... worked wonders and will be useful for sure in the future!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Erasmus354
so how did you remove the floppy bay and HDD mount..use dremel or nails like Erasmus354Quote:
Originally Posted by gocchin
I am looking forward to doing this with P180 in couple of months
Because the dremel was a lot smaller than my drill but just as strong (actually seemed stronger) I just put a drill bit in the dremel and even on an angle it easily drilled out the rivets holding the floppy bay/HDD mount.Quote:
Originally Posted by nealh
thanks....Quote:
Originally Posted by gocchin
I've begun cutting out the grills on the front and back of the case. This dremel is proving to be a useful purchase. Hopeful this will ease some of the restriction on the airflow and make it ever slightly more quiet. ;)
http://www.jpop.com/gocchin/pa180e.jpg
Looks like this is gonna come out very nice, gocchin. I have a P180 myself, and posts like this always get me thinking about WC'ing my rig.
Looking good man :)
more pics please...by the way did removing grills help with airflow??
Those grills dont look *too* restrictive - not as bad as the rear grill on my old V1100 anyway - but it cant 'ave hurt...
Quote:
Originally Posted by yngndrw
Well for rivets you can just use a flat head screwdriver place it agaisnt the edge of it and hit the end with a hammer and it will snap the head off of the rivet.
I can tell you from experience that this method is not ideal for the rivets needing to be removed in the P180. This is the method I used and it took a LOT longer than it would have if I had been able to get a drill at them. It probably took me a good 30 minutes at least to get 4 rivets off.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jokester_wild
The best way to remove rivets is with a strong dremel and some kind of lubricant. If you don't use lubricant the drill will get dull after a few rivets and if you use a weak dremel copy like I do it still takes five minutes per rivet because you can't apply enough pressure w/o the dremel halting.
Lubricant? Ive used the same bit to remove dozens of rivets and its still razor sharp. Maybe if its a super cheap bit or your drilling through stainless steel.
The dremel i have is the best investment in moding tools i have made.
If sure taking out those grills will improve both air flow and noise, helped alot with my lian-li.
If you're drilling in soft metalls like alu it doesn't matter, I used the same drill bit for 500+ holes in my last build w/o lubrication but it was only alu.
Steel is another deal, now the drill won't chip away enough material to remove the friction heat so lubricant is a good idéa since it cools the drill and prevents it from going dull.