Maybe coolsleeves might save you trouble of replacing tubing.
http://cooltechnica.com/Merchant2/gr...eves02-350.jpg
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Maybe coolsleeves might save you trouble of replacing tubing.
http://cooltechnica.com/Merchant2/gr...eves02-350.jpg
Well at least you didn't ban me before I posted my overclocks.Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
No one is going to ban you for saying things that arnt true. Other forums may do this but we dont
How about that ALL OF YOU ARE WRONG.
http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...28&postcount=7
interesting explanation nik, but that would only happen if you had the system REALLY sealed up at every piont, and most of us dont have our systems that sealed up.
I have had this happen to me, as soon as I took the cap off my tee line the tubes rounded out again.
I can't say I've ever had this happen to me before, but then again this also stresses the importance of good tubing.
Masterkleer 1/2"id 13/16"od is almost impossible to kink, check it out :)
Edit: Of course this will require you to completely redo your watercooling loop with new blocks and all but what the hell right? lol....
nik, all I can say is that you have a very well sealed system. lol.
maxx, what?
if the tee-line is plugged or the res is capped it is a closed loop
if you think that closing your t-line/res makes it perfectly airtight...
well...it IS watertight, eh?
oh wait, then how do you explain fluid loss over time?
it's been discussed at procooling for a little while now, and the culprit is the tubing.
airtight is a such an indefinite term in this case...but yeah, for all intents and purposes, a closed system is airtight.
Snowwie, Id like to think my system is air tight, but its not. Its alot eaiser to get a better sealed system with a T-line than a res so long as you use a hose barb plug on the T-line.
Anyway, we all know that the water can evaporate through the tubing, which leads one to t he logical conclusion, if water molecules can make their way through tygon, so can air molecules.
so you are saying a negative pressure difference is impossible to achieve in a our loops?
realize there is a difference between semi-permeability and permeability. a closed water loop is NOT permeable (neither air nor water goes in or out freely), although the tubing commonly used in our loops is at some level semi-permeable. at some level.
I can attest that my loops have negative pressure after a while, getting my res open is a nightmare unless i let some air in first. In this case, with a pretty young loop, i would look elsewhere for an explanation though.
Maxx your "conclusion" looks more like an assumption to me. Several materials (many of which are made from polymers like tubing) are used for permeateive (hope that's a real word) properties to certain molecules while being non-permeative to others.
Crunch your example was meant to explain my negative pressure? If so, the coolant is filled in at ambient pressure, and even applies when loop is still hot, i only ever noticed it after several months, not after a fresh installation/refill.
Snowwie, what Im saying is that the tubing is semi-permeable. If you read the tech docs on Tygon, they even state as such.
Tygon R3603
"The permeability for CO2 is such that if the tube wall is 1 mm thick, and the pressure across it is 1 cm of mercury, then you will lose about 2.5 x 10^-6 millilitres per second through each square centimetre of tube wall."
Is that a question posed to me? If so, what exactly are you asking me? Are you asking If I am saying that our loops cant have a lower ATM than the outside air? Most surely they can if the system is perfectly sealed and the sum of the permeability of all the materials in the loop (with respect to surface area and thickness) is greater for H2O than it is for air.Quote:
Originally Posted by snowwie
maxxx, that's the wrong answer. the right answer is it IS possible, because it happens (read niksub's post). Therefore, a closed watercooling loop is airtight.
Thats faulty logic right there mate. Cars crash when it rains, but that dont mean that ALL cars crash as soon as there's some water on the road.Quote:
Originally Posted by snowwie
nik's isn't an isolated incident, look at the original topic of this thread. the fact is that over time, water will evaporate through the tubing. now maxx is saying this wouldn't cause negative pressure in the loop because a) closed loops aren't airtight and b) even if they were, the fact that water vapor could evaporate through the tubing is testament to the fact that air/gas can freely move through the tubing thus equalizing any pressure differentials. his explanation for why nik and many others experience neg. pressure in their loop is that they "have a very well sealed system" and it's not typical. I have issue with his response is all.
lol snowwie. Your putting words in my mouth.
I didnt say taht ALL closed loops arnt airtight and I didnt say that ALL closed loops could not create negative pressure in the loop.
I also never said that air/gas can move freely. I said that it can move through the tubing and it is a known fact, that Saint-Gobain Performance Plastics Corporation has documented themselves. The rates at which air and water are permeable is different.
I also stand by my statement that most people do not have very well sealed system (to use my own words). I see many people using batteries, DD Fill caps, etc for their T-lines. Such "devices" will lead to a system that is not 100% sealed.
creidiki also pointed out the same fault in your logic.
Im using the sawed-off spindle part of a 100-cd spindle... fits nice :DQuote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
well jeez maxx, it looks like you owe RMS a bit of an apology, eh
Its best to use 'could be', rather than 'is', its saved me looking like a munter several times
Quote:
the suction of the pump is collapsing the tubing. I suggest you get bigger tuing. That straw sized 1/4" tubing is rediculous and is starving the pump.