very nice :D
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very nice :D
lol san aces comparble to M1 panaflow? i got 3 of them and i cant stand them on anything but 7v, 12v is a killer
loving the rig tho, nice work, including your lumpy mouse ;)
Here are some fan comparisons:Quote:
Originally Posted by BAcon
Panaflo M1A 120mm x 38mm = 35 dBA @ 12v and 86.5 cfm
San Ace 120mm x 38mm = 39 dBA @ 12v and 102.4 cfm
Delta VHE 120mm x 38mm = 48dBA @ 12v and 129cfm
I think the extra 20 cfm from the M1 to the SanAce is worth it for just 4 dba.
You could just lower the voltage on the SanAce to equal a M1's airflow and it could be more silent
I dont mind the noise on these fans that much.
I could make a noise dampering solution for the core tho.
Something like an air tunnel wraped with thick dampering stuff on the side where the fans blow
Are those numbers from testing or what the manufacturer says? Because there's a big difference between the two, most manufacturers' fan dB/CFM ratings are way off.Quote:
Originally Posted by Turok
Yeah, they are manufacturer numbers :PQuote:
Originally Posted by HiJon89
Yeah, I wouldn't trust those. There is no regulation of fan dB/CFM ratings, so theoretically a manufacturer could put whatever they want. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Turok
Wow Turok! That is one of the most beautiful setups I've ever seen. :slobber: You, my man, have inspired me to go red instead of blue. Would love to see some bigger pics of your PC when it's running, like an angle shot.
Usama aka Ferrari Freak
first, nice work turok! -- you did a really good job with setting that up.
polishing the aluminum back to the original shine - try flitz metal polish and a really soft cloth. Use very little, rub the surface very lightly and it will look better than new with just a little effort. Flitz works wonders on anything metal.
san aces vs. other fans - dBA, manufacturer ratings, etc.
the ones on your monster core are not stock...they were weaponized. I am not really sure how much that effects the actual dBA but it changes the pitch, ups the RPMs a few and should make them last considerably longer. The normal san aces are great as they move a ton of air with a lot of force and their pitch and volume makes them more tolerable than any other fan I have tried (and that's a bunch) but a bit of tweakage makes them even better. I ordered a case of them (it was a great deal) a few years back and immediately emptied the brand new panaflos out of my case and replaced them with the san aces after I tested them. I have used nothing but san ace since. :)
I was going for blue too when I last year. Last year my plan was to go air cooled, UV and blue stuff, and the same case but the silver version.Quote:
Originally Posted by ferrari_freak
Since I have this black furniture, my CRT is black, and everything is black, then I went for a black case.
I wanted to be original, so I didnt want Blue LEDs because nearly EVERYONE has them.
I also didnt want blue because my favorit colors are green and red.
I was thinking between these themes
1) Toxic Green :alien:
2) Lava Red :devil:
I ended up choosing red, mostly because of the deck keyboards available :p:
At that time, there was no green and they only had red, blue, and yellow.
Now they are going to release a green version.
I liked the idea of having this deep black theme where a really bright red sticks out like a piece of steel being heated at 2000 C :D
Then I wanted to give WC a try because I figured out that the XP-120 wasnt going to fit in my case with the Corsair XL pro RAM
I viewed the WC theme as the blood that fuels my PC :D
(doesnt look like blood unless UV is off :p: )
About the pick, right now its 6:42 and its still daylight here in Pflugerville, TX.
The window right in front of the PC is made of some cloth, so I cant control external lighting.
I will take a pic of how it looks right now.
If you want a pic with the 3 different light mods in the dark, you will have to wait until 8:00 pm so it starts to get dark.
Thanks Weapon :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Weapon
btw, your cores are the best
I will try the Flitz polisher. Ill post a new pic when i get it and finish polishing
Ok, here is a pic of the PC at 7:00 pm
The pic got a bit blurry
Its running Halo 2 from the Xbox so you can see how console games would look on it.
The speaker button is red because its off. Its blue when its on.
Wait about an hour or two and ill post the light shots.
Right now its running the UV lights. Thats why the cables look a bit vibrant on daylilght.
Ill try to use something as a base so I can take a pic without blurring the image
http://img152.echo.cx/img152/2840/pcangle0wc.jpg
Here you go.Quote:
Originally Posted by ferrari_freak
Some angle shots with the PC on.
I took the pics with the screensaver on
Im a bit inexperienced with my camera :P
The first one was too tellow, so I reduced the contrast, but it still looks too yellow
UV on and lights on
http://img283.echo.cx/img283/3696/pc16pk.jpg
CCs off and lights off
http://img283.echo.cx/img283/7017/pc20kh.jpg
UV on and lights off
http://img283.echo.cx/img283/830/pc39pk.jpg
Red on and lights off
http://img283.echo.cx/img283/8707/pc45ub.jpg
Wow... That looks so purty. And yes, you have achieved the blood look there. I think I might just dump the idea of getting an LCD moniter and go with looks and liquid cooling on my tower instead. Looks beautiful!
Usama aka Ferrari Freak
Nice looking setup, consider yourself very fortunate to be given such a nice system @ 16 yrs old.
Yeah, I try to "negotiate" a lot with my parents :DQuote:
Originally Posted by zeebs
I think the price ended up being nice.
I think the total was about $3500 - $4000.
This would be everything without including the Xbox and Furniture I already had.
I still have things to finish. Im planning on wall mounting my speakers with 4 of these.
http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...t%5Fid=40-2097
or most likely these
http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...t%5Fid=40-2096
Its the best I found that could work with my speakers.
It says kit, but they how much of them are per unit. It would look expensive if its 1 per unit
Ill go to Radio Shack to make sure I get the right thing and the right price.
I also have to organize the cables a bit and polish the aluminum finish with the Flitz that Weapon mentioned.
I will post more pics when I do all that and I clean my room from boxes, tools, trash, and PC stuff :D
Turok
Here are some pics of my temps.
Note
1) Its Summer here in TX, so temps could improve a lot in winter.
2) Im only cooling the CPU for now.
3) I only raised the multiplier from 13x to 14x, so its running at 2800 Mhz
4) My house is air conditioned
Thermometer ambient at this moment was 26 C.
Depending on the day and the air conditioning,
it could go as low as 21 C (wile its summer)
http://img272.echo.cx/img272/5453/thermometer3lh.gif
Idle is 31 C, but I usually get 32 C. Idle could be between 31-33 C
http://img272.echo.cx/img272/9213/idlesummer5rk.gif
Load is mostly 38 C
http://img272.echo.cx/img272/5581/loadsummer4zl.gif
Turok, how'd you remove the connectors? Apparently, the way I attempted to remove the pins turned out to ruin them. Good thing I stopped after ruining two connectors.
very nice setup man.
looks very very nice.
What connectors?Quote:
Originally Posted by shadowing
Are you talking about the fan connectors? The 3 pin plugs?
If so, here is what I did:
I just used my small glasses screwdriver that I got in wallgreens for 1$ (I think),
and I just pushed the pins from the holes below the plug and wile I did that I just pulled the cable that I was pushing.
Dont force it too much or the fin that hooks the pin in place will brake and you could have bad contact with your hardware.
If you force them too much, they could also bend inside the pin
Luckly, since I was sleeving my cables, the grip of the heatshrink would help keep the cable in place even tho if the pin broke.
Make sure afther removing them to bend the fins so they are a bit open from the pin and place the pins back in in the right order.
Make sure it wont come out with a bit of force.
Here is a pic of the screwdriver and the hole where you push the pins.
Made the pic look good by putting a 4 pin floppy power cable with the screwdriver on top of my case :D
http://img268.echo.cx/img268/5393/pinremoval5cm.jpg
Turok, those universal wall mounts will NOT work with the Z-5500s. I used to have a those for some of my other speakers. They require you to drill holes in the back of the speaker box to attach the mounts wich you wont be able to do since the enclosure on the satellites is A) rounded, and B) made of plastic. The holes in the satellite speaker stands are for mounting to the wall. Just stick screws through there and they mount to the wall perfectly. That's how I did mine. Spending that much money on those mounts is a very BAD idea since they wont fit and they are pieces of crap from my experience.
Awesome rig!
A+
Thanks for the news zeebsQuote:
Originally Posted by zeebs
Ill have to figure out a plan B ;)
I wasnt planning on drilling the round part of the speaker, I was going to hang it by the feet on the rectangular plate.
Since you say they s@%&, Ill have to figure out another way to mount my speakers.
For the perfect surround sound setup, I cant hang all my speakers directly to the walls. Here is a pic showing what I intended to do:
http://img268.echo.cx/img268/5314/speakersetup1cy.gif
I need spacing in the front because the case would block the right speaker if I hang it on the wall.
The back ones are in a angle. Would like to know if its better to lay them flat to the wall or do I need a piece of wood in the form of a triangular prism so I can make it more angular.
I may have to do angle the front ones too a bit to my direction because they would be a bit spaced appart horizontally and would be close vertically. If its more angular, I could hang it on the wall because the sound wave will reach me without having a really wide angle and the PC wont block it
With that setup, I will get a enviromental effect arround my room because of the sound colliding on the walls.
In order to pin-point my location, I will calibrate them with the Creative software.
Hope a sound or home theater expert can help me out on a cheap solution
Turok
Looks good.
Great Looking and Well Balanced WC Rig there Dude. :)
What clock/voltage is your FX-55 at and what's the ambient temp?Quote:
Originally Posted by Turok