I removed one on a 3200+ i had, it yielded better results on air. Alot better temps actually, and i think around 50Mhz prime stable more.
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I removed one on a 3200+ i had, it yielded better results on air. Alot better temps actually, and i think around 50Mhz prime stable more.
Quote:
Originally posted by Liquid3D
Solution B. Remove the IHS for another 5C (I belive the benefits of removing this 800lb Gorilla outwiegh that of Northwood temps after removal)?
HElp? Anyone Do this? Anyone do this on a Prescott? My 3.0C IHS removal gave me a 7C total temp reduction. My 2.4C only got about 4C. Both performed better, and better contact was made with waterblocks in each case though.
newer P4's have the IHS epoxy'ed on.... dont try to remove it. i think this may be that case with A64's aswell. if you remove the IHS, the core is comming of fthe package with it.
I dropped 7-8 degrees (water) on a FX53-939 cpu, but the thing is that when you re-mount the exposed core you have to apply much less force that what is called for under the IHS spec. Do not overtighten and it helps to place a few pads around the core.
the chances of damage are compounded greatly if you plan on moving the cpu on and off fairly regularly. The top can be sealed back on if you are very carefull.
Shouldn't you also file down the standoffs, since the screws bottom out on them? That would compensate for the lower position of the heatsink with the IHS Removed.Quote:
Originally posted by HKPolice
Therefore I put 2 washers underneath the spring to increase the tension, until the heatsink wouldn't budge.
This is why I think I only got a 3C drop. Anyone using an thermalright heatsink should do what I did with the washers to increase the tension.
Regarding the P4 IHS: I'm 99% sure that ONLY the M0 (including P4 EE) cores are epoxied. All other steppings use thermal paste.
As far as the Epoxy goes... Has anyone removed one from a *NEW* Athlon 64? I just finished a system for someone with a A64 +3200, and Gigabyte Pro nf3 250 board, and I would like to lower the temps, but I don't want to go destroying the chip.
Thanks,
Roydrage
just cut the gum and try to remove the heatspreader very carefully... if it wont come off just leave it on :)
or ask sysfailure about it ;) and send him greetings from me :D
I ordered my 3200+ CG 5AR about a week ago from newegg and just removed the IHS with no problems..
I have about 6C - 7C drop in temp with about 80mhz increase in a stable overclock...
Just need to be careful and patient...
what cooling is that? do you have any pics of it?
6-7C° is nice! idle or under load?
I'm using the Swifty 6400 V with 92mm tornado... I have the tornado running with about 6-7v.
I don't have any pics. I will have a new Cannon A75 Digi Cam on Tuesday. I don't think I will pull it back apart until next weekend. Summer term starts for me on Monday..
At stock speed my idle temp was 39 -40C with the system temp at about 34 -35C (using MSI ' s Corecell) Load temp was about 48 - 49C...
At 2400mhz my idle temp was at about 43 - 44C and load temp was 53 -54C..
After I removed the IHS my idle temp at 2400mhz is about 38C and my load temp hovers around 47C, that is with only 6-7v to the tornado ( my temps drop between 1-2C with 12v to the tornado)
yeah, that heatsink is very nice! does a 120mm fan fit on it?
i have a bunch of 120 mm deltas here (38mm thick 2800rpm iirc) wich are extremely nice. at 12v they move 100cfm without making a lot of noise.
and at 5v they still move a lot of air (i guess around 50cfm or more!) and are almost completely silent!
you should try one of them if you can find them. should get you really nice low temps.
Thats kind of funny you say that, because I bought the swifty instead of the thermalright, so I could use a 120mm X 38 fan..
I had a 120 X 38mm 130cfm fan mounted on it with a 120mm to 92mm fan adapter. It was a little quieter, but didn't cool as good.
I got the fan adapter from Frozencpu.com. I don't like it though. It said it was for a 120mm to 92mm adaption, but on the 120mm side the hole opening is a little to small. (cutting off some of the air flow from the 120mm fan. The 92mm side is just fine. It mounts just fine on the Swifty and the 120mm fan...
I would recommend getting one of the all aluminum built 120mm to 92mm adapters.
I will get one in next couple of weeks and try it again. I did like the quiet 120mm fan, but with the tornado at 6-7v it is pretty quiet, but not as much as the 120mm...
:toast:
Get that Alu adapterQuote:
Originally posted by Jasonxxx
Thats kind of funny you say that, because I bought the swifty instead of the thermalright, so I could use a 120mm X 38 fan..
I had a 120 X 38mm 130cfm fan mounted on it with a 120mm to 92mm fan adapter. It was a little quieter, but didn't cool as good.
I got the fan adapter from Frozencpu.com. I don't like it though. It said it was for a 120mm to 92mm adaption, but on the 120mm side the hole opening is a little to small. (cutting off some of the air flow from the 120mm fan. The 92mm side is just fine. It mounts just fine on the Swifty and the 120mm fan...
I would recommend getting one of the all aluminum built 120mm to 92mm adapters.
I will get one in next couple of weeks and try it again. I did like the quiet 120mm fan, but with the tornado at 6-7v it is pretty quiet, but not as much as the 120mm...
:toast:
this:
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/delffb1212eh.html
and this:
http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProduc...999-903&depa=0
:)
That fan controller is really good Im ordering one today you can adjust fans from 0v - 12v. Does anyone know if theres a way to mount a 120mm on a SP-94 :D (that isnt really ghetto) also is SP-94 still the best retail S478 heatsink?
just 20$? damn, cant find that fan here in germany....
termaltake just released an alu sp-94. its almost 2 times as big as the copper one though, so it could cool even better than the sp-94. i havent seen a review of it yet, though.
Sorry to bump an old topic but has anyone had an IHS epoxied to an A64 core? I want to take the IHS off my 3000+ CG core that I got retail from newegg when the VNF3-250 came out but I'm affraid it might be epoxied on...
so far i havent heard of an epoxied ihs on an a64.
Ok now I just have to Vmod the board, graphics card, PSU, fit everything into a case, take the shim off my 9500pro, hope I dont kill the chip, and than hope everything works :stick:
Hi!
Just wanted to thank you all for the useful comments & links on removing the A64 heatspreader. It helped me a lot.
Great temperature drop and much better overclock at lower voltage.
To see screenshots, just look here:
http://www.planet3dnow.de/vbulletin/...hreadid=175268
Sorry, it's a german site. But I think pictures and numbers can be easily understood. ;)
Martin
willkommen auf XtremeSystems martin :D :toast:
20C lower load temps are HUGE! :eek: thats really really sick...
was there enough termal grease on the core when you removed the ihs?
Hi!
The heatspreader fitted very good, actually. And there was also enough thermal grease on it.
http://home.arcor.de/xxmartin/A64/a64_ihs.jpg
But not only the 20K temperature drop was great. The most important fact is
with IHS -> 2500 MHz only @ 1.600V primestable
with IHS -> 2600 MHz not primestable, even with 1.850V
without IHS -> 2500 MHz @ 1.500V (click me!)
without IHS -> 2600 MHz @ 1.625V (click me!)
It's just great. At the moment I am playing around with this
http://home.arcor.de/xxmartin/A64/2700.png
:D
Guess it's a quite good result with only standard watercooling.
Martin
use A straight double sided edge rasor for slicing and then gently pry up each corner and edge till she pops.
Hmm, I might have to give this a try. With the number of Mobiles being sold, the cores can't be that fragile. If I take my time and mount my Cascade with even pressure, I think I'll be fine. The only thing that worries me is that the LR Cascade does not use springs when mounted on an A64.
I would leave the IHS on unless you have a really bad overclocker. If it overclocks well that means the IHS is making great contact and you won't see much increase if any. If it doesn't OC well it may be because the thermal paste was not properly applied or the IHS was not installed properly.
Also, when using an evap you had better be very careful. Personally I have not experienced any performance increase from removing the IHS. Also, the ClawHammers are less delicate than the Newcastles because they are larger. It's not worth the risk IMO. I run my FX-53 naked because I bought it that way, but I would never have removed the IHS myself because it made no difference on the 2 A64s I tried it on previously.;)
no difference at all in temps and ocability?
thats odd.
i heard from several people who removed the ihs that they got at least a 1C drop, most got around 4C under load.
Ok, here's a question. I'm selling my 3200+ in favor of a great clocking 3400+. The 3400+ has the IHS removed, but will my waterblocks work with it off?
TDX and MCw-6002?
As long as your watercooler uses the 2-mounting-hole-screwing and NOT the retention modul there should be no problem at all.Quote:
Originally posted by WesM63
Ok, here's a question. I'm selling my 3200+ in favor of a great clocking 3400+. The 3400+ has the IHS removed, but will my waterblocks work with it off?
TDX and MCw-6002?
I guess your waterblock is fixed with springs? That should work any way. However, be careful not to use same pressure as for an A64 with IHS. The SOI-dies are said to be very fragile.
Do the cores crush easily or just chip?
The reason I ask is that my Cascasde water block does not require springs in an A64 setup. I take my time mounting the block, so the pressure is very even. I don't stop until the screws stop moving. It's a very stable and even mount that's not likely to chip the core. If crushing is a possibility, I won't be removing the IHS.