A tube of some sort would be needed to measure it. The friction of the tube would not lower the head just how long it would take the water to reach its max height. It would reach the same height no matter what the diameter of the tube was, whether it was an milimeter in diameter or 10 feet in diameter the same pump would raise the water to the same height in both.
u sure about that?? i would think it would not be ab le to raise the level of 100 gallons of water to the same height as a small tube of water. The weight of the 100 gallaons being held up would be much greater than that of a small tube. correct me if im wrong on this one though...
I think I will ask billA and cathar about this. Not that I dont trust you (your very knowledable), its just that bill is a pro when it comes to this stuff.
Yes max I am sure. It is the basis of how hydraulics work.
To give you an example you might have seen. Sometimes with large tanks they use a small tube on the outside of it (connected to the top and bottom of the tank) to show the level of the fluid inside it. No matter the size of the container it takes the same presure to raise the liquid the same height.
The MCP600 generates about 4.5psi for max pressure which is about 10.5' of head. So in a 10' diameter container it would raise the water to a level of 10.5' and the same height in a 1mm tube. It would just take much longer to reach the 10.5' in a 10' diameter container.
okey dokey... my physics is rusty as all get out as I am in first semester physics 101... and my book has like 3 pages on hydrodynamics and all this cool stuff
That's a good point - if you dead head the pump, the water isn't actually moving so tube friction is irrelevant.
ahh ic. gotcha... yah i also see why the frictionless tube is not neccesary. It occured to me at the time of writing it but I still wrote it.
need a pic of a 1048 ??? weapon HC ??? MCW6002 ??
need any let me know
weapon HC would be good... weapon is taking his sweet time. your hear that weapon... im good on the mcw6002... dont need that pic...
i got a pic of the 1048 as you can see up there.
Very nice guide :)
I do have a couple of questions. I've been reading for a month on here and any other place I can find about water cooling. I'm collecting parts now for my first water cooled system. One thing I have not been able to find is an explaination of why some cpu blocks have 2 tubes and others have 3. I'm going to start with a fairly simple system, I have a Swiftech MCW650 12v pump, Swiftech cpu block and gpu block. I plan to mount a dual 120mm rad in the top of my coolermaster case and have the fans (120X38mm) on top pulling air through the rad. The one thing I'm not sure of is my mounting for my res, I really want it sitting in the hd cage on the bottom of the case, right in front of the pump. Will I have problems bleeding the system with the res on the bottom? This by far the best place I can mount it, if it will work ok there.
Sorry for all the questions..... maybe I should have put this in a seperate thread, if so, just lmk.. :) Thanks for the guide and all the help I've gotten reading on here.
a seperate thread would have been better, but its fine. no biggy
2 barbs is easier, but 3 can yield better flow. also 3 barbs sometimes work better for certian designs of the block. based on the internal design of hte block having 3 barbs can help you compared to 2 barbs.. but for the most part 3 barbs is just a pita... but if you have your system setup correctly it can be beneficial. like for instnace if you run a short length of tubing from the 2 exit barbs straigt to a res with 2 inlets you can gain some good flow compared to a block with only one output. but tha is considering that you are only cooling the cpu.
ur res placement is fine.
That does help clear it up. I assume that if I'm also cooling a gpu that one outlet on a 3 barb cpu block would go to the gpu block and the other straight to the res? The block I have is only 2 barb so it's a moot point, I just want to understand all the options available and the pro'c/con's of each.
you would not want to do that unless you were not overclocking the video card very much.
the reason is that water takes hte path of least resistance. that would be straight to the res. this in turn would give your video card very low flow and would not be good if you wanted low video card temps. but if your not ocing your vid card much and you just want it for silence then its a good way to go about doing things.
Sorry but isn't the Swiftech MCW6002 an 'Impingement' style design?Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
This is taking from the Swiftnets website:
"The waterblock base features a thin pin design (281 pins). This geometry maximizes the surface area exposed to the fluid, and promotes turbulent flow, both factors which also contribute to enhance the convection heat transfer, while exhibiting less overall flow restriction than competing design."
If it has pins instead of channels how is it a non-impingement style block?
I would not claisfy it as an impingement stye block. impingement uses little jets of water that shoot at the base of the cooler. The only TRUE impignement is the Storm, but the ones like the tdx, rbx, and antartica are in the range that would be called impingement.
the mcw6002 on the other hand is of the same general idea as a mcw5002, but with the inlet in the center and the pins of a different shape.. not an impingement at all. impingement needs little "jets" of water.
Whoa, good job MaxxxRacer. Question, what's a good waterblock for 64s? and how much would a typical watercooling system cost?
well there is no such thing as typical... lol...
a64..
mcw6002,
TDX,
RBX
LL storm G4
LL storm G5
that is in no particular order.
Alright, thanks for that. Now I know what to look for but I think I will still go with the MCW6002 as this is gonna be a budget setup.
Great guide by the way :D
Another question: For pumps, what are usually better? By better, I mean powerful to use in impingement design blocks and deliver max performance with a great price.
For AC pumps, isn't there a need for an external plug, or something? After all, it is AC not the DC.
with AC for ease of use you need a relay switch..
as to perofrmance per dollar for powerful pumps... well the performance per dollar sucks all around. lol.. no getting around it. But the best DC pump is the AquaExtrme 50 Z at 80 dollars. The Iwaki MD20RZ is the next logical step up from that and weighs in at a whopping 190 dollars... but depending on the block it can offer you up to twice the flow. i stress that is an UP TO. most of the time it wont be 2x but there are more extreme cases when it will be.
Another question: Is there any resevoir that is a drive bay that can be screwed on onto a case? Just like how a hard drive could be? (By onto the case, i mean external like at the top of the case)
Also, where do you usually buy the fittings and etc.?
PCCG have some res's you can mount in drive bays.
http://www.pccasegear.com.au/category45_1.htm
u can get them pretty much anywhere
Maxx if you want some pictures of what ive got, you can have em, got a good digtial camera, though you'd have to re-size em yaself.
what kinda gear you got? im sure i could use some high quality pics in there.
you can email them to me at maxxxracer@hwlogic.com
Mostly what you suggested! ;)
Maze 4 Acetal, Tygon 3603, Aquaextreme 50Z, 6002 Swiftech, Waiting on dual heatercore.