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Dude, according to that drawing there is no way you know how a auto-cascade works..... Sorry if I sound harsh but you should not play around if you dont know how the thing works. Autocascades can be more dangerous than cascades due to all the refrigerant being in one system so be safe and figure out how it works.
a diy shop or motorfactors mabey? they usually sell small disposable CO2 tanks for welding. i get large tanks of CO2 for my welder, i think they are 9Kg? not really sure, will check sometime, costs me £10 a time for a refil, just take it ot the shop and hand over the tank and a £10 note and get a nice new tank full of CO2 in return. the little disposeable tanks cost about £12 here and only have less than 1Kg in if i remember correctly. shop arroudn and im sure you will find somewhere. :) or ask around your friends, im sure someone will have or know someone who has a mig welder, ask them where they get their gas or if you can pinch a bit ;-)
owen
I'll start with the filter dryer. Thats in the wrong place. You need one in each liquid line. Phase separator shouldn't be a tube in tube. It needs one inlet and two out lets. Oil separator---refrigerant needs to enter at the pipe second from bottom and exit at top, bottom pipe is oil return to compressor, needs a valve to open to allow oil to return to compressor.
Major rethink on your plumbing required here mate. Do you understand how an autocascade works? Thats not a put down, by the way, just a genuine inquiry.
Regards
John.
What safety precautions are necessary on an autocascade? Ive been asking and asking but nobody will point them out to me. I for one dont want to start before I know I can build one that will be safe. Is it a good idea to use an expansion tank like on the low stage of a regular cascade? What about a high pressure cutoff to bridge the low and high side when the high side pressure is > 400psi. Do these sound like good ideas?
PcIce?
Chilly1?
i was going to make a flex hose like i use for suction line attach that to 9kg gas bottle and fill that. disconnect fire extinguisher and connect gauges to 9kg bottle and then fill.
then repeat untill i get enough co2 into system.
i remember ppl doing it with ethylene or something, as they didnt have a regulator.
have to be very careful, high pressure gass is cold and can rip flesh off bones .
ouch.
www.sodaclub.com they rent bottles for their small soda makers 33 0z. in a bottle or 930 or so grams and they are apparently worldwide...Quote:
Originally Posted by gkiing
Sorry I edited my last post but I know what you mean, use a buffer tank to regulate the pressure contained in the extinguisher.
uhh...if my drawing threw you off I'm using this one.
http://www.blairwing.com/images/autocascade/4.jpg
Oh and I think pythag if right, I don't know where I remembered reading about it coming in the top and exiting there..oh well guess i got it backwords. Thanks, I'll change it. I also mentioned my terminology was messed up my phase sep is actually a condenser where the refridgerent enters in the middle vapor goes to the top and condensesables go to the bottom where the cap tube meters it to the HX where it comes back out through the suction line. The top vapor goes through the phase sub cooler and then in to the interstage where it's condensed by the first stage gas and metered in to the evap by cap tub. The suction from there connects with the one from the first stage and goes back to the compressor. I honestly think I am capable of doing this, I just messed a few terms up on what they are called and maybe some of my piping is a bit off.
thats cool, i plan to use HPCO to 450PSI on the dischargeQuote:
Originally Posted by gkiing
can order them of chilly1, thats what im doing
also NitroRat thats a cool link and there are shops near me :toast:
http://www.sodastream.com.au/retail/...name=Cylinders
its ALco2 though is that co2?
[QUOTE=kayl]thats cool, i plan to use HPCO to 450PSI on the discharge
can order them of chilly1, thats what im doingQUOTE]
Just after the discharge on the high and just before the suction on the low? Is it a digital one or a non-settable copper one?
non settleable one thts about all i know about it
Quote:
Originally Posted by kayl
Yeah, their cheaper and easier to use for our purposes i guess. I think that they open at 450psig and close at 350psig.
Where's it going to go?
If you looking for a supplier for CO2, just look for "Paintball" under the yellow pages and look for a supplier that will sell & fill a paintball canister. Get a few of the paintball connector valves to mount to the tank and you should get good to go.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gkiing
not exactly sure on that.
i have never seen one and never used one, i just cant wait to get me stuff
i think they are perfect for nebies to autocascades though
For mine i was thiinking of making a box and hot glueing it air tight and puting dry ice in it with a shrader, don't know if it will work though.
if the shrader stayed closed for a minute or two, the box would explode, or spring a leakQuote:
Originally Posted by bh2k
http://www.growhere.com/atmospheric/grnairco2bottle.htm
not really sure if that is any good, it is near imposible to find online suppliers for CO2 over there..lol.. must have found a few hunred supliers over here in the uk when i was searching but thats the only one i came up with over there, their cylinder deposit seems a little on the high side though (im just comparing to prices over here though)
owen
www.airliquide.com
they supply industrial and welding gases all over the world. You can get an online quote from them go to their e-shop page and choose gases --> co2 --> research gas and you can get a 5lb tank of CO2 which is about the smallest they carry, although it is a bit expensive.
Yes, and you run a risk trying to compress it back into a cylinder at room temperature.. you need about 850PSI to do that if I remember correctly (@30C).Quote:
Originally Posted by blinky
Just find a paintball store and buy a 12oz tank of co2, thats what I'm planning to do.
yea, like I said it sounded okay in theory, but I pretty much figured the pressure wouldn't make it work. Anyways, I have a quick question. Does my oil sep have to be upwards or can I have it in any position?
Yeah it does. The refrigerant/oil mix travels up through the oil separator and the oil droplets are caught by the steel wool and are fed back to the compressor, gravity helps out here.Quote:
Originally Posted by bh2k
For the Filter if you have a few passes of hte discharge go through the condenser then through the filter drier you can put it there so all the refrigerant gets filtered.Quote:
Originally Posted by pythagoras
I'll probably put one on the top coming out of condenser just for access and probably one on the bottom for access as well. It kinda helps too I guess just to make sure the condenser doesn't have anything in it and saves me the time of figuring out access. Speaking of the HX I'm going to start off using R290 for the 1stage and I wanted to ask about sizing my captube. Im going to start with C02 and later switch to R22/R23 since it's colder, but about how much should I start with for captube to the HX? I was gonna use about 9 1/2 feet just to start and monitor and test from there.
How long is your tube in tube hx bh2k?
Well it was a 10feet coil of 1/2 and 1/4 inside of it. I cut about a foot off so it's about 9ft of 1/4 inside of 1/2. I planned 1/2 to be evaping and 1/4 to be condensing.
Any ideas?