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awww that sucks trodas, Yeah I am well aware when you tighten the top or bottle you have to be gentle... and the rubber o-ring is a pretty bad idea... never the less the innovatek tank o matic looks awesome :) It's a bit resticted as well since the the water inlet/outlet flows down into a L-shaped brab.
Btw, your project is looking awesome :) how much do you think it'll cost us hehehe. I'm down for one if the price is right ofcourse.
caLume - thanks ;) I must admit that Im was always against adding LEDs and cathodes and UV dyes to coolant and stuff like this, but it looks like I will soon change my mind - the blue light catched my eyes pretty well :D :banana:
Tatewaki - I use destiled water with Hy-per Lube ( http://www.hyperlube.com/prod_cool.asp ) and that it is. Looks cool, is not it? ;) But for the blue light you need blue coolant too, green + blue did not mix well, it looks then... well... afwull to my, but my friend was amazed, because it looked like the coolant is messy stuff, or something like it... so... Each guy probably have other preferences how coolant should looks like :stick:
idleuser - well, the tightening suxx, but the rubber o-ring is not necessarily bad idea. I see as much worser idea the fact, that there is the materials mix - the AL and the plexi glass. I bet that the plexi with increased heat expanding it's dimensions more that the aluminium bottom. Therefore come the leaks when used... Now when the temp go down, there is extreme pressure with - combined with the overtightening, because it leaking, thread - and you can bet on the crack. That's why I never mix materials on my read and it make him temperature resistant.
The restriction of tank-o-crap lies far more in the sad fact, that the connections have only 7mm ID (!!!) and the same is valid for the internal pipes. My connection is 10mm (1/2" fittings, of course optionaly can be there any fittings with 1/4" NPT thread - I got some 3/8" for the ones what need them, and MasterCarr sold many different ones for the 1/4" NPT thread... And futhermore I can made there a 1/4" BSP thread too, if anyone want use it...) and my pipes is not 7mm ID, but 14mm ID.
The restriction of tank-o-crap is serious, while in my design is next to none. T-line can't be beaten, tought :lol: (even it is pain in the a*s to fill, bleed and refill :rolleyes: )
And your last question I got forbidden to answer, till I have 100 posts and place the res thing in the trade section ;)
http://ax2.old-cans.com/res/Monster.jpg
:D
Now this is what I call monster :lol: :) From left there is a standard 250mm res, then two ones with rotated holders by 90 degrees - the first one is 300mm big, with holders 100 and 240mm from top and then there is a - Mmmooonnnssssttteeer :lol: A 400mm big suxxka, with holders 50, 180 and 360mm from top! :eek: ;)
In galery, there is two more pictures of this monster ;)
http://reservoar.wz.cz/index_en.php?...d=2&v=v2&red=2
that's hot man!!! ogm haha I think ill need to pick one of those up if you ever decide to sell them!
I made them for guy who want these insane sized res :p:
I, personally, did not recommend them, for two reasons. Okay, maybe there. Expensive. The water surface will be quiet - maybe not, if you use something like Iwaki or Eheim 1260, but surely with 1250 one like I have is the surface almost quiet when there is only 20mm or air in the res, and I got only 280mm one :rolleyes: What is the big deal with nonmoving surface? Well, movinf water surface indicating flow, so... ;)
And the third? Well, if something leak badly, you get a hell lot of water flowing to your poor mobo :stick:
But yea, they are somehow quite impressive ones :cool:
http://ax2.old-cans.com/res/dymONE.jpg
dymONE install :p: Rest is there:
http://dymone.szm.com/Res/res2.jpg
http://dymone.szm.com/case2.jpg
that looks really damn pretty :)
If you guys have a plastic shop close by you can build a similar res. yourself. I built 2 for myself, about 35.00 for enough material to build 2.
http://ourworld.cs.com/careighsautte...s/DSC01219.JPG
wow, very nice work
Looks very nice man.
Very nice, both of you. I've never tried using acrylic tube, how hard is it to work with?
Edit: And what temperature range will it take? I know polycarbonate can go down to -40 but I have no idea on bonded acrylic.
Trodas..question for ya if I may :D
How do you tap the holes like for the lid so that you are able to screw in a cap? I am thinking of attempting to make my own reservoir sometime next month, but not a cylindrical tube. Anything I should keep in mind when purchasing plexi ,acrylic, plastic or whatever is specifically used?
KaptCrunch - ROFL! Nice joke :D How much heat do YOU think these LEDs can, when used, add to the loop? :D
spruce - good one, indeed :) Im only a bit concerned about the size (ID) of the pipe used - looking a bit small to me :p:
MVC - I use Acrylon - less hard, but far less prone to cracking, unlike harder plexi glass variants. For good quality of cut you need a watercooled hi-RPM cutter with as many blades, as you can get - other than that - not a big problem. Just remember that every scratch is visible, so you gotta be experienced - or close eyes after on the imperfections ;)
Nubius - you must use oil on the tap, but not a syntetic one, just steal one in kitchen :p: :D Choose carefully, some of them can cause cracks. It's like when you apply technical spirit on the plexi glas - in the parts where the material was cut/taped it is very very very likely to develop cracks. Frankly, it is almost certain ;) And use a quality tap and do things slowly. And then show your results! :D :p:
http://ax2.old-cans.com/res/Xander%20expanzka2.jpg
:D
just the fittings which look down disturb a little bit.
its 1/2 ID acrylic tube
spruce - well, looked tad smaller to me - probably because I got used so much for my bigger ones :p:
Definitively they are at least not as restrictive, that the tank-o-crap ones, with ID just 7mm (!!!) and OD 10mm :)
I recenly realized that rubber sealings got it downsides. After more that 2 months being tightly pressured by the cap and on my garage windows, where half of day come direct sunlight, it stoped holding pressure at jut about 3/4 bar, witch IMHO suxx a bit :( Now I understand why RadekB use silicon stuff for his Cascades. Rubber suck in longetivity a lot :(
Luckily, I managed to fins a silicone O-ring with a bit bigger profile, but same diameter and it looks like is time for another 2-6 months test:
http://ax2.old-cans.com/s.php?p=res&id=63&c=8&d=1&v=v2
:D :D :D
Anway, Warlord instalation:
http://ax2.old-cans.com/res/Warlord.jpg
:cool:
This is awesome stuff.
I'm just staring a project that has dual cooling loops so I need two reservoirs.
Problem is I haven't made the case yet so I don't the length that will fit.
But great work - like others I want something like the tank-o-matic but designed and built better.
bfx