Quote:
Originally Posted by OC Nub
still alive ?
:D
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OC Nub
still alive ?
:D
Yes, playing with it on SS now. :up:
I should have tested temps on air/water like you did prior to changing thermal paste. I never really tried it on anything but phase so its hard to see if temps are lower. Bios only goes to -20c, and evap temp wont show any change.
Wow nice going !
clock it then ;)
if its working you will gain 100Mhz or more
Does anyone think it might be partially due to the stock black adhesive used to glue the IHS to the CPU?
Since maybe about 0.5mm of this gunk is cleaned off in the process of delidding it could be increasing mounting pressure.
This really begs the question, "Why doesn't Intel use Arctic Silver 5 or something better?"
I remember reading that the chip performed worse without the IHS at all than with it. So I think just replacing the TIM and putting the spreader back on is the best bet. And less dangerous in general for the motherboard and CPU during operation.
Nice, this reminds me of the good old days cutting Venice cpus :D
Back in AMD Venice days (3200+ etc. cpus) I used to glue it back with the white silicone grease (the one that can be used in bathrooms/sinks etc.). I am sure there is a black variety as well. However, it was not for the purpose of warranty and I would not encourage it anyway. It was just to secure the IHS. From what I remember temps after reattaching the IHS were just fine (a few degrees lower) with Venice cpus :)Quote:
Originally Posted by iboomalot
You just have to cut the IHS, keep only the 4 side with empty middle in order to apply direct contact heatsink. Use something like a dremel.Quote:
Originally Posted by PcCI2iminal
This stuff probably would suffice:Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi
http://www.contec7.co.uk/tec7.htm
Use it for loads of things and it's really sturdy stuff.
Nice thread :)
How much did you gain in terms of stable oc at same voltage after IHS removal ?
I sucessfully shaved IHS off from my 3570k.
Removed socket holder and directly mounted the Heatkiller waterblock on it !
I now have 15 °C better Temps !
Before i had 4,6 Hhz @ 1.32 V @ 80°C
Now i have the same config @ 65 °C.
So its a nice drop !!!:)
Can clock now about 200 Mhz more.
Temps are much more better especially when increasing Vcore.
@ 1.44 V i have about 73°C without IHS
with IHS i never would run so much Vcore on this CPU cause i think temp would go to 100°C range.
sweet man.. pics??Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWMASTER81
Here, shortly did a LinX run, just to show Temperature.
Vcore is a little high for 4700 Mhz but 4800 Mhz isn´t 100 % stable.
Im working on it and try to tweak some Voltage settings to get 4800 Mhz @ 1.45 V stable.
http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/4...nihsoff.th.jpg
#37 high voltset ? i use 1.4v to 5GHZ PLL 1.73v to I7 3770K
would that help ?
Coollaboratory Liquid MetalPad
http://www.coollaboratory.com/en/pro...quid-metalpad/
I have these MetalPads here.....but installed with Noctua Thermalpaste because of handling.
It isn´t easy to mount an waterblock on this small DIE, i think Metalpad would make it more difficult.
Maybe the 3770k CPUs clock even better than 3570k CPUs :confused:
what did you use to make up for the difference in height of the chip after the IHS is gone? when i tried with my apogee xt block, it would not make contact with the direct die because there are stops on the screws. did you use new screws or does the heatkiller come with screws that don't have stops, so the lower height of the chip is a non-issue?
EDIT: this question was directed @BMWMASTER81
this is 10x harder than just removing the IHS altogether and more risky and time consuming. do not do it this way.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boulard83
one slip up of your hand and you'll accidently touch the chip somewhere with the dremel, which will most probably kill the chip right away
I was under the impression that it was the cpu socket that wouldnt allow direct die contact. IF that is no the case then any waterblock/heatsink that just screws down onto the cpu will work?Quote:
Originally Posted by chinkgai
example: Attachment 126768
Nope, it's not only that. you have to remove the CPU retention bracket AND make up for the height change after IHS removal unless u have a screw type heatsink/block that does not have stops on the screws. Most do have stops though for even pressure.
The mounting style in the pic u posted would work simply by removing the bracket however. No stops on that style.
thats a nice droop!!Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWMASTER81
here is my fresh 3570k retail (unmodded) on water
http://downloads.criminalcafe.com/re...0k%20water.jpg
for 4800MHz i need 1.5v and its not stable cz the heat issue is so critical,
after one minute of prime the core temperature will hit 90c and would go to 100 degrees celsious easily
http://downloads.criminalcafe.com/re...20full%201.jpg
but in the other hand my modded 3770k is going better and better
4600MHz at 1.15v !!
http://downloads.criminalcafe.com/re...as5%20115v.jpg
Beyond the obvious moral problem here, it's worth noting that knowingly seeking warranty service for something where you know the warranty terms have been violated does technically constitute fraud.Quote:
Originally Posted by iboomalot
How long will it stay unmodded? :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by PcCI2iminal
not for long!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by xsmokex
Am I right under the assumption that the removal of the IHS and retention bracket only works with waterblocks and not air cooler as they would bend the socket pins due to their weight ?
PcCI2iminal, did you re attach the IHS with glue or something or is it just loose and held together by the cpu socket clips on the mb?