Majour flow issues... help urgently needed

well.. got the damn thing running properly :D

Unfortunately i screwed up my 360 rad :mad: the screws i used turned out to be too long and when
fitting my new fans i accidentally overtightened the screws and punctured the rad :'(
so now i'm stuck using the rad i wanted to use for my GPU untill i get my new 360 rad.

Since i was already at i also ordered new tubing (1/2) and fittings. Don't really like the small tubes i got now.

I am guessing it will be a much faster build nex time.

On a side-note: i have to say i am a little disappointed with the temperatures. Under normal circumstances my Scythe Mugen rev B. performs equal.

Temps are idling at aroud 50degrees for both the wc as my previous air setup. Vcore=1.3 is this normal?

Anyways.. for those of you who helped me and are curious to see how it turned out i have also added some pictures.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-k...2021.07.18.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-J...2021.08.31.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-r...2021.09.27.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-t...2021.10.27.jpg

Greetz

:rofl: So the pump wasn't priming...

Glad you got it going, and good luck going forward - be careful with the screws.....

It's hard to tell from the pics what your exact loop order is. But the water MUST enter through the mid port of the CPU block and exit through the side. If it's reversed that is causing the poor temps. Also, reservoir output (not the tube) should go directly to pump inlet. So overall it should look something like: Pump > Rad > (cent)CPU(side) > (tube)RES(out to pump). Hope that helps.

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Originally Posted by Chainlink

It's hard to tell from the pics what your exact loop order is. But the water MUST enter through the mid port of the CPU block and exit through the side. If it's reversed that is causing the poor temps. Also, reservoir output (not the tube) should go directly to pump inlet. So overall it should look something like: Pump > Rad > (cent)CPU(side) > (tube)RES(out to pump). Hope that helps.

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Hi, thanks for your reply...

It does not enter throught the mid port, why would that matter? Has it something to do with the way the CPU block is designed?

Cheers

Mr. Bean :D

Yeah... i'll think twice next time thanks for all the advise so far :up:

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Originally Posted by DoggieStyle

Hi, thanks for your reply...

It does not enter throught the mid port, why would that matter? Has it something to do with the way the CPU block is designed?

Cheers

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most cpu blocks are designed to concentrate the incoming flow of water directly over the center of the CPU die, offerring up the absolute best cooling possible. After it hits this central, hottest part of the CPU, it spreads out and around, and then gets rounded up and gathered back up at the outlet. by having it in reverse, the water is going all over the place first before hitting the CPU central die. Depending on the exact design of the block, if you have it in reverse, there could be a small eddy or laminar flow that causes the water to not flow properly over the center of the die.

It's basically the difference between shooting a target at point blank range, or trying to ricochet the bullet off a tree first (only with a lot more bullets). both ways may work, but one is more effective.

I would also consider making certain that the fans on the radiator are pulling in cool air from the outside of the case.

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Originally Posted by DoggieStyle

Hi, thanks for your reply...

It does not enter throught the mid port, why would that matter? Has it something to do with the way the CPU block is designed?

Cheers

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Yep, it does matter with most blocks today, this is why I stated in my previous post that you should flip the tubes on that as well. The particular block you have, has little arrows on top of the block shows which way the flow should go (arrow pointing to the hole is in and the one pointing away is out).

As for your temps, idle is not our measuring stick, wait until you get under load...that is where a well designed water loop will kick air to the curb.

So.. back home and i switched the tubes on the CPU block...

I just can't believe the difference... temps dropped to 42 degrees idle.. WTF? :shocked:

have you loaded it up with a program like OCCT yet?

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have you loaded it up with a program like OCCT yet?

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Don't use this, CPUs were never designed to deal with the unnatural/impractical heat-loads and stress this impose on your system -> no wonder we have so many sudden-death CPUs around. Rather use programs that will simulate real-life situations, like Folding, Prime 95, and others to test.

Not a dig at you, Mate, just a general observation.

No worries, I don't take things personally here. :D

You are right in that I should have probably mentioned some of the others instead, especially in a new-to-watercooling thread. To be perfectly honest it was the only one I could remember by name off the top of my head.

Ah, no worries - with English not my being my native tongue, things seems to get out a bit harsher than intended :)

I know a few guys here will disagree, and I will probably use OCCT for 10-15 minutes as a quick test, but generally, I tend to avoid it. Better, or let's just say, more practical apps out there...

Have a good one.

Your tube runs are still way too long. This is a simple loop, one block one radiator, keep the tube length at a minimum, you even have small diameter it should be a lot cleaner than that, imagine what it would be with several radiators and GPU blocks as well :) (keeping the tube routing simple will help your flow too). The worst offender is the CPU->radiator tube, you can reduce it to maybe 1/4 its current size.

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Originally Posted by gmat

Your tube runs are still way too long. This is a simple loop, one block one radiator, keep the tube length at a minimum, you even have small diameter it should be a lot cleaner than that, imagine what it would be with several radiators and GPU blocks as well :) (keeping the tube routing simple will help your flow too). The worst offender is the CPU->radiator tube, you can reduce it to maybe 1/4 its current size.

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hi.. the other chaps mentioned the same thing. well that seems like Something i'll do on saturday.

no time tomorrow. will keeper you guys posted :-)

something also to note: a single 120 radiator will probably not give you the temps (under load) that you are looking for - as to your comment that your temps weren't much better than under air. the triple you were intending will help under load by a huge margin (overkill actually), but a single is just to small for the heat output of modern CPUs so you probably will not see the temps that you are looking for under F@H, Prime95, or whatever load program you want to use. you also mentioned putting the single rad (that you are now using on your CPU) on your GPU loop once you get another triple 120 rad. it will certainly help your temps, but GPU's actually put out MORE heat than a CPU....it's just spread out over a larger area and therefore more easily dissipated which is why you normally see better temps on GPUs. something to think about.

Hi Guys,

I apologize for not doing this sooner but i hardly had time due to work and issues of everyday life.

All i wanted to say is; thanks.. Thanks for the help in setting up my first self built WC solution so far. :up:

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Originally Posted by bds71

something also to note: a single 120 radiator will probably not give you the temps (under load) that you are looking for - as to your comment that your temps weren't much better than under air. the triple you were intending will help under load by a huge margin (overkill actually), but a single is just to small for the heat output of modern CPUs so you probably will not see the temps that you are looking for under F@H, Prime95, or whatever load program you want to use. you also mentioned putting the single rad (that you are now using on your CPU) on your GPU loop once you get another triple 120 rad. it will certainly help your temps, but GPU's actually put out MORE heat than a CPU....it's just spread out over a larger area and therefore more easily dissipated which is why you normally see better temps on GPUs. something to think about.

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I must say that you are right, the temps are not exactly what i was expecting.

Heck.. they're not that much better than my Scythe Mugen 2 Rev. B. I'd even go as far as to say my air cooler was on par with my single rad.
I'm gonna run the system like this for a while and see how it copes under stress

thanks again for the help everyone :D

Looks to me like your Rad is airLocked
B.T.W I have fixed these Lo-pressure Rads with 2 part epox . Just make sure it is drained and dry .Scrape/sand the punture
The apply the epox. works good . or if you have access to it use gastank repair epox.
If you want to see if it is Airlocked just turn your Rad/computer on its side.Out let side up and turn on the pump.that will force the air out of your rad.Or just take out your rad and turn it so the inlet/outlet are on top.