just shoot a video,
use an USB camera and soldering FLUX to assembly, it's easy and fun.
BTW, is the english description grammar ok:confused:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PtcdCGA_qTk
just shoot a video,
use an USB camera and soldering FLUX to assembly, it's easy and fun.
BTW, is the english description grammar ok:confused:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PtcdCGA_qTk
Nice job, thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by wizard1238
What function does this IC you're soldering perform?
I don't suppose you can recommend a list of tools/material for beginners?
I'm also interested in modding my mcp35x pump (have 2x of them)
Is there a better PCB I can solder in than the one typically used?
why would you change PCB on MCP35X and loose their main distinctive feature - pwm regulation - in process? These are mostly for reviving old DDCs with fried PCBs, i see no sense in tinkering with working ones that you bought for high price with more loss then gains in result.
Only if there's a pcb with pwm, & slightly better qualities than the one already in mcp35x.
Just for fun, something interesting to do.... :)
+1 Why waste the money on a pump that has PWM to start with? The 35X is already the strongest DDC variant out, why not do this to a regular 3.2 or 3.25 instead? The PCB on the 35X and the top are responsible for it being the strongest, everything else is the same as it's little brothers FWIR.Quote:
Originally Posted by churchy
I have a 2nd one that I don't need for my puny loop ;)Quote:
Why waste the money on a pump that has PWM to start with?
I "think" it still is....Quote:
The 35X is already the strongest DDC variant out
I know the top is responsible for it being the strongest.Quote:
The PCB on the 35X and the top are responsible for it being the strongest
I'm not so sure the same could be said for the PCB though (except for the handy PWM).
If you want to do this I would suggest buying some different DDC's to do this with. I am only going to be throwing these PCB's on non MCP35x DDCs.
The top isn't responsible for all of it, go look at skinnee's testing, it only accounts for a small percentage of the boost.
Yes but I want to take advantage of the MCP35x's top :)Quote:
Originally Posted by lowfat
The top may not be responsible for all of it, but the the pcb's def. not the best performing one out there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
There's a toshiba one (name escapes me) that's better performing (with added noise of course), no PWM though, but it can be added.
Then get a regular DDC and a 35X top, Swiftech does sell them separately. Save the 35X you have for another build...you will have another build, trust me. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by jalyst
There are 2 kinds of PWM, hardware and software. The 35X is controlled through software, I think the Toshiba is hardware (haven't read the WP so I'm going off what little info I've seen). The 35X is the best stock PCB out there.
Hey good idea, I hadn't considered that, thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
Not sure there's 2x kinds of PWM though is there?
I think it'd always need to be implemented in hardware.
I don't see how you could have "PWM" in software.
What's a "WP"?
I'd suggest bringing the no-LED version back for those who don't want this sort of tacky blingQuote:
Originally Posted by [AK]Zip
do not install the LED and the pcb will work as no-LED version:DQuote:
Originally Posted by anzial
White Paper, I guess.Quote:
Originally Posted by jalyst
:yepp:Quote:
Originally Posted by zalbard
Very nice. I was going to make the same video except for soldering the whole board, but at this point I don't think I need to. Great video showing how to solder the hardest component on the board.Quote:
Originally Posted by wizard1238
many people are still waiting for your great voice teaching video and the external PCB playing method:clap:Quote:
Originally Posted by [AK]Zip
Does that soldering tip have a notch in it to hold some molten solder to apply with?
read the original post - LED is now BUILT-IN as in soldered on:rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by wizard1238
Is there any reason to go name-calling? :down:Quote:
Originally Posted by anzial
Please have a little civility, OK?
*updated quote* thanks :)
Besides, if you don't want LEDs it is very easy to just take them off.
Sorry, fixed it (and you can fix the quote, as well ;) ) :) As for LEDs, it was just a suggestion for the manufacturer, and there's no need for y'all to get so excited about it :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparky
Yes I will still do the video showing the external PCB setup. I am actually quite interested in this method as I want to see how much of the temperature is due to the controller and how much to the actual coils.Quote:
Originally Posted by wizard1238
Well actually that isn't true. The actual feature is built into the board, but you can avoid the LEDs by not soldering the 4 LEDs and 2 resistors on. If a pre-built board is ever released it will take a few seconds to remove the LEDs and you can just leave the resistors on there.Quote:
Originally Posted by anzial
When I am hoping will come next is PWM. :D
Well, thank you for the clarification. It was not entirely clear from your original post which said that LED's are built-in but did not specify that they are not assembled that's why I thought they were soldered on... My apologies for the confusion :)Quote:
Originally Posted by [AK]Zip
Very good tutorial and respect for doing it.
i disagree with you about the dyes though hahaha. How ever the main point being that ive now ordered two of these my self for 2 of my dead pumps. :)
PWM is what I'm desperately keen for too...Quote:
Originally Posted by [AK]Zip
Best performing (known) PCB for DDC pumps + integrated PWM + DDC 2.x pump* + MCP35X top = win :D
Might even try to installing the PCB externally, after seeing how you've done it in your vid.
Man I love this community! :)
*rev. might be wrong, I forget them right now, something a bit older than the MCP35x I guess.