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Oxidized copper I can live with. I'm still trying to figure out tube routing and thus fittings required since I want to get a bit fancy and try to hide some of the tubing runs behind the motherboard tray and drive cage stack, I know I have the clearance to pull it off, but I've yet to figure out how to get the tubes through the side wall of the 5 1/4" bays without really ripping it up.
I've been putting some thought into possible layouts to minimize the amount of visible tubing, and think I've narrowed it down to 3 options, though I'm not sure which option is the best to go with.
Option 1: Res -> Pump -> 420 -> CPU -> GPU -> 220 -> Res
Option 2: Res -> Pump -> 220 -> 420 -> CPU -> GPU -> Res
Option 3: Res -> Pump -> 220 -> CPU -> GPU -> 420 -> Res
Option 4: Res -> Pump -> 420 -> 220 -> CPU -> GPU -> Res
http://www.images.atragon.org/main.p...g2_itemId=1028 http://www.images.atragon.org/main.p...g2_itemId=1033 http://www.images.atragon.org/main.p...g2_itemId=1037 http://www.images.atragon.org/main.p...g2_itemId=1041
In terms of loop layout, I think option 4 is the best option, however I am a little bit worried about the relatively tight confines of fitting the pump behind the res and how I would be able to slid it out to fill it. Then again, if I'm careful, I may be able to put enough slack in the line from the pump to the 420, and the return line to allow me to slide the res out.
Also, for those who noticed that the res is sticking out the front of the case, that's because the DD Monsoon is much shorter than the XSPC res that I used as a placeholder in sketchup.
I'd go for #1, as shortest/simpliest tubing routing. I don't get much why you like 4th, with going extra up-and-down without much extra need for that.
And hmm, shouldn't rad in lower compartment be turned with inlets in middle of case, so that tubing can be passed through holes for wire managment?
Also be careful with selecting tubing width. Check if selected tubing size OD (and it's fittings, if some of them will be placed there too) fits well behind motherboard tray and other areas, where you plan to route tubing.
#1 appears to be the best option and #4, problematic. Just my 2 cents.
There's just over 21mm of space between the raised lip of the motherboard tray and the side panel, the 3/8" ID 5/8" OD tubing I'm using will leave me with about 5mm of space to spare.Quote:
Originally Posted by churchy
The reason why I like #4 is that it puts both rads between the pump and the CPU block.
However, I suppose that having either rad in the loop between the pump and the CPU block is just about as good, arguably better since having one rad before the pump would help cool down the water before it hits the pump, and you're correct that #1 does eliminate 2 extra up/down tubing runs.
As far as lower rad orientation goes, I can dry-fit it both ways and see which one looks like it will result in better tube management. Don't forget though, I need at least one of those wiring management holes free to pass the PSU wiring through. It also gives me ideas for drain/fill of the loop, I can throw a T on the low point of the run and get everything except the lower rad for draining.
I'm not sure if I have the space, but I might even be able to put the lower rad on standoffs, flip it upside down, and then be able to drain the whole loop at once from there.
For filling, if sliding the res out doesn't work out, I could put another T fitting on the top run and fill that way.
As an added bonus, if I use Q-blocks, the 4th port gives me a handy place to stick a temperature sensor to get water temperature data both before and after the rads.
TL;DR version: From your comments, #1 seems like the way to go. Also, fill/drain can be done /w T-lines at the top/bottom behind the back panel. And, if I go with Q-blocks instead of T-blocks, I have handy points to measure water temperature both before and after the rads.
Loop 1 or loop 2 seem like the best ones to choose, i'd go for loop 2 and add a sexy drain line :)
I'm not entirely sure that the drain fitting I'm looking at can really be called sexy. How about a sexy fillport instead? ;)
I'd appreciate it if you could look over my cart and let me know if there are any glaring omissions from what I'm planning on buying from Performance PCs.
http://www.images.atragon.org/main.p...g2_itemId=1045
The reasoning behind the fittings is as follows:
CPU block: 2 Bitspower compressions + 1 45 deg rotary
GPU: 2 Bitspower Compressions
MCR420: 2 Koolance Compressions
MCR220: 2 Koolance Compressions + 1 45 deg rotary
MCP35X: 2 Koolance Compressions
Res: 3 Koolance Compressions (1 inlet, 1 outlet, 1 fill line)
Drain fitting: 1 koolance compression, 1 temperature sensor, 1 male-male
Flow meter: other end of male-male, 1 koolance compression
Nozzle Body: 2 koolance compressions, 1 temperature sensor
Fillport: 1 Koolance Compression
Sensors will be connected (eventually?) to an Aquaero, I'm just waiting for the new one to drop.
Res will be a DD Monsson, once it releases.
Kill coil for obvious reasons
Filters are for case floor (the 140mm) to cover expanded hole for MCR220, and for case rear (the 120 as a 140 wouldn't fit) as I am strongly considering turning the exhaust fan around to maintain positive pressure.
Edit: Missed something... TIM. I'll be going with Shin-Etsu X23-7783D as while I'd like to go with Indigo Xtreme, I killed my tube of AS5 recently, so I need to buy more TIM to use on the GPU block anyways.
Just annoyingly busy with school. I've had almost no time to work on the project recently, which is annoying as I really want to get this up and running.
I've got my hands on the screws I'm going to be using for the radiators and fans
http://www.images.atragon.org/main.p...g2_itemId=1049
1 1/2" 6-32 flat-head socket cap screws for mounting radgrill -> case -> fans -> rad
1 1/4" 6-32 pan head socket cap screws for mounting fans -> bottom rad
3/8" 6-32 flat head socket cap screws for mounting radgrill -> case
I ordered them all from Fastenal, a Canadian equivalent to McMaster, though with higher prices (it being Canada and all), and slightly worse selection. 50 screws of each type cost me a total of $20, which I'm quite happy paying, so that worked out quite nicely.
The reason I went with flat head is because I want a very smooth look to the top and bottom of the case, and being able to countersink the heads will really help with achieving that.
Still to do: Nail down how much sleeving I need, finalize the order for fittings + connectors, get my hands on a reservoir, decide on which Aquaero 5 I want to order.
Oh yes, and assemble the whole thing. :)
And I also went and placed 2 of the 4 other orders I think I need to place...
Lots of assorted stuff (wires, connectors, fittings) from Performance PCs, and sleeving from MDPC.
http://www.images.atragon.org/main.p...g2_itemId=1053 http://www.images.atragon.org/main.p...g2_itemId=1057
Still left to order is the reservoir from DangerDen, and an Aquaero + temperature sensors + relay connection for hard shutoff from Aquacomputer.
One item that I need to decide on is whether I should go with an Aquaero 5 LT or XT. In terms of system control, either one is perfectly acceptible, while the XT has the advantages of having a remote control (I'm strongly considering dual-purposing this rig as a HTPC too), and a display, again useful for HTPC work.
(I'm sufficiently not a fan of the Pro's faceplate that I'm not even considering it.)
I'm just trying to figure out if that's worth 80 euros to me or not. At least I've got some time to decide.
BTW, think also about where/how case is gonna be placed. For example for me it will be on the floow with case front in table direction. If i'm sitting near table, i can reach buttons with hand or configure by software. If i'm in places where remote control might be used, IR remote sensor will be facing other way. Without usable remote it's much harder to justify purchase of more expensive XT for just different/extra buttons, if one knows that passive heatsink included in XT will be replaced with waterblock anyway. Though if one goes for looks only, that pricing difference might not be high enough to set back.
Thank you for that perspective Churchy, I suppose it's going to boil down to whether the remote will be useful or not. I need to think about that.
Well, colour me surprised, I got home this evening to find this waiting for me:
http://www.images.atragon.org/main.p...g2_itemId=1062http://www.images.atragon.org/main.p...g2_itemId=1067
That was some quick shipping from MDPC. Inside is (hopefully) more than enough sleeving for this build. Nils threw in some short lengths of red and white sleeving, which I'll try to find a use for being Canadian and all. :)
http://www.images.atragon.org/main.p...g2_itemId=1071
Atragon: well, seems that i somehow didn't notice optional IR-Booster, which probably should solve any reception problems because of case front direction (i don't see it listed among items on aquacomputer's shop, but saw it's pic in first page of AA5 thread @XS).
I came home today to find another package waiting for me, my order from Performance PCs.
http://www.images.atragon.org/main.p...g2_itemId=1075
I've almost got everything for the build now, just waiting on the Moonsoon res and Aquaero 5 to drop, and then I'll have bought everything for this build. Also, reading week is next week, so I will likely have time to start getting stuff put together. (I won't be able to finish the build then though due to aforementioned parts).
So it's been a while since I've last updated, school has been keeping me annoyingly busy, and I haven't made any physical progress.
However, I have been chewing on what I want to do for a top radgrill, and I've settled on getting one custom cut to my design since I want to integrate the fillport into the grill. Unfortunately for me, while I've decided on hexagons, I've also decided that I don't want to just tile the same size of hex over and over, and would much rather tile two different sizes of hex. However, I can't quite decide on which way to join them together. I'm leaning towards either option 1 or 3 of the below options, and would like your input.
http://www.images.atragon.org/main.p...g2_itemId=1080http://www.images.atragon.org/main.p...g2_itemId=1085http://www.images.atragon.org/main.p...g2_itemId=1089
Not a terribly exciting update, but I've finished the 3d models for both top and bottom radgrills, now to get a quote for having them laser/hydrojet cut and powdercoated/anodized.
Progress will, unfortunately, continue to be slow until the end of exams in mid April. :(
Ok, so after about 5 months (gotta love school followed by real life and a summer course for their ability to suck your time dry), I've gotten back to this. I had the radgrills made, and they turned out beautifully (No pics atm, will wait until painted). I've also cut the holes for mounting both of the rads in the case.
Unfortunately for me, I've hit a significant snag...
http://www.images.atragon.org/main.p...g2_itemId=1296
That's right, the fan mounting holes on both my MCR420 and MCR220 are too widely spaced. I literally cannot mount a fan to the 420, and it would take a lot of force to do so with the 220 (it isn't as badly off, instead of ~110mm hole spacing, it only has ~106.5mm hole spacing). I've opened an RMA with the vendor I bought them from, now to wait and see what they say.
In the meanwhile, I'm prepping the case and radgrills for painting.
Joy.