[Review] Round 2: Heatkiller 3.0 LT and LC Tested + How To Improve the Heatkillers!

Anyone tested this improvement yet? Results? (Besides from Vapor)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jonni Nitro

I have a question and it was probably answered but I need it in lamens terms. I have a HK 3.0 LT and I have a reverse atx case( A+ Black Perl) and essentially mounted the block upside down the on motherboard. I hope this makes sense how I explained it. I am wondering if this would have any effect on temps. I can reall see how because it is still mounted vertically on the chip.

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Nah, your performace will be fine.. theres isnt some "huge" difference between how is it mounted or where..

A little less messy way of Vapor modding Heatkillers;)

If you have a used fan vibration gasket (as on picture for a 92mm fan) cut the side off
and tape it on a smooth surgace (I used a 2mm rubber pad). This ensures the entire
surface of the silicon pad is of the same hight ...about 1mm

Then put the silicon gel (I use the same as for sealing kitchen sinks, bathtubes
...100% neutral silicone) on the rubber pad and spread it with a triangle
ruller to get a
smooth surface. Put it away for a day or two for silicone to dry.
http://www.shrani.si/t/35/CV/3aGjw9C...rafija0316.jpg

The next step is to draw a template. Put it on a plain paper, and then cut it
out. The paper will stick to the silicone, so no need for any additional taping.
http://www.shrani.si/t/1N/in/2Y5vhTM...rafija0317.jpg

You can cut this out with a carpenter knife or other sharp tools:D

This is how it looks on a LC top. Also this can be easily removed when
you take the block apart.
http://www.shrani.si/t/1W/r7/1A8nEYm...rafija0318.jpg

Hope it helps you.

Awesome way of doing the mod there! :toast:

Just brainstorming with your idea:D:up:

Minor update on the HK silicone mod:

After letting it sit for a few days I took the block apart and found the
following:

- the silicon gasket is compressed to about 0.2mm (screws fully tightened)
- the 1st and the last channel is blocked by silicone ...this would result in no
or very little flow in these two chanells ...this might not occour in LT/Cu
block as it has very narrow channels (51 for LT/Cu vs. 34 for LC)
- at the ends of the top the silicone is very very compressed and might tear off

I then removed the silicone gasket and assembled the block as per default. With
screws fully tightened the top sits on the chanells ...I tried to insert a piece of
paper (~0.1mm thick) between the top and base and could not do it (not at the
center or at the sides ...the center of the top has a small bulge) .

NOTE: the above applies for the LC block, the silicone mod might affect the
LT/Cu block differently.

Great review!!! :clap: even got me to buy one :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bladesinger7x

Minor update on the HK silicone mod:

After letting it sit for a few days I took the block apart and found the
following:

- the silicon gasket is compressed to about 0.2mm (screws fully tightened)
- the 1st and the last channel is blocked by silicone ...this would result in no
or very little flow in these two chanells ...this might not occour in LT/Cu
block as it has very narrow channels (51 for LT/Cu vs. 34 for LC)
- at the ends of the top the silicone is very very compressed and might tear off

I then removed the silicone gasket and assembled the block as per default. With
screws fully tightened the top sits on the chanells ...I tried to insert a piece of
paper (~0.1mm thick) between the top and base and could not do it (not at the
center or at the sides ...the center of the top has a small bulge) .

NOTE: the above applies for the LC block, the silicone mod might affect the
LT/Cu block differently.

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I was thinking the same thing, I'm going to try the opposite side with silicone. It makes sense since the problem to begin with is that o-ring being to small between the top block and diverter plate. I just siliconed the top block around and on top of the o-ring. Not sure how I can test this, but if it stops the dingling sound the diverter plate makes when I shake it I'll be happy.

Anyone test with a CU block? I remember when I got mine new, I could shake it and hear the plate chinging around. I dont feel very good about the silicone caulk, but a nice o ring or even a cured silicone gasket cut to shape would be nice.

i have the CU nickel plated. i thought about putting a bigger o-ring in there, but was afraid that it would be hard to keep the shape trying to fit it in a smaller groove. good idea a flat gasket might work. if it were possible a thicker diverter plate with original o-ring might be the best option.

Finally got around to doing the silicone mod to mine. What with my mobo being out on RMA, there's plenty of time to let the silicone cure before reinstalling. I wound up trying a slightly different approach, just applying the silicone to the top only (o-ring is underneath still). I made sure to uncover the impingement plate location pins and clean up the inlet with q-tips. The silicone is about as thick as the location pins are above the surface. Got it pretty smooth using a pocket screwdriver. I'll give a couple of days before trying to reassemble.

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...9/100_2505.jpg

holy batman necro!

oh, c'mon now. It's only 11 months old. :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rock&Roll

oh, c'mon now. It's only 11 months old. :)

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Which means you dragged it up from page 114 = dead topic. ;)

The top 3-4 (maybe 5) pages I can understand, but not page 114.

To all would be Necros, If the topic is more than a month old, please let them rest in peace.

Hmm, most probably thread got found via search .. and is it really better to make new one instead of posting in prehistoric one?