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i had already lapped yours after i brased it.Quote:
Originally posted by MickeyMouse
so do I need a file/240/440/800 grit for mine, lol :) Its not hard to lap a block just very hard do it with it connected to the evap hose ;)
BTW outstanding guide still looks very hard, but I guess wiht the right tools its not as hard as Im thinking. :)
I'm just messin with ya, bud. Nice work as always. :DQuote:
danng Gary
if i had thought about it i would have taken a pic before hand....it really is a nice way to do it.i wondered myself at first.but it fits real nice.i just make sure i have no slack in the hose when i brase the exiting cap tube.
One little minor point I disagree on. You said the ideal was when the material runs like water. The ideal temp is when the material can be spread on like soft butter with water at the edges. This gives you a small upraised shoulder at the joint for a little extra strength. Takes some practice moving the torch in and out to maintain just the right temperature.
well i should have used the word butter....LOL..
but as you can see in most of my pics..thats what it looks like....
BUTTER.....nice refrig term......:D
gary as always you got me laughing.....but you are right....:toast:
What kind of torch do you use Bowman?
a Harris Air/Acetylene torch....
i have a normal turbo type propane torch ,it will do the job,but the harris works better thats all.
Are the Dynaflow brazing rods available at Home Depot?
Also, where can I get the suction hoses that you use, with the correct fitting for the baker blocks?
And one more,, LOL, do you know if the baker CPU block is available now at XTWerkz? The site says its on pre-order on the main page, but you can go ahead and buy it and it mentions nothing about it being a preorder on the actual product page. Plus, a bunch of people have been turning up with the blocks lately so I'd asume theyre avaiable now.
I would go to 1000 grid instead of polishing with a compound... in fact polishing is a bad idea and always gave me worse temps...Quote:
i usally remill mine ,but a good flat file ,and then hand lapping with 240grit,then 400 grit,then 600 grit..then polish with compound will give you the best possable surface..
where can Dynaflow be bought
I would try the phone book under Welding or Welding supplies.Quote:
Originally posted by water_cooler 20
where can Dynaflow be bought
it's all in how you do it...Quote:
Originally posted by berkut
I would go to 1000 grid instead of polishing with a compound... in fact polishing is a bad idea and always gave me worse temps...
wax on---------wax off.....:D
my last tube came from www.johnstonesupply.comQuote:
Originally posted by water_cooler 20
where can Dynaflow be bought
Thanks for the guide bowman, should come in handy when I come to do mine... if I can ever get hold of one...
thanks for the link
wax on.......wax off.
Cool.
Instructions shipped with the blocks would help too, maybe even a free brazing rod when you buy from XTW
A toss up on the cap tube, pressed in is probably the best route if you ever have any trouble and need to remove the block due to hose or compressor failure, small chance but it can happen.
Great thread bowman.
If the block was that hot, is there any risk of it mishaping at all?
Sorry, I'm a newb.
:) Your answer is on page one of this thread, here is a quote...Quote:
Originally posted by sandman
If the block was that hot, is there any risk of it mishaping at all?
Sorry, I'm a newb.
Quote:
Originally posted by bowman1964
always flatten the base of the evaperator after brasing and not before.because it will warp slightly during the brasing process so flattening the bottom before hand would be a waste of time.
i usally remill mine ,but a good flat file ,and then hand lapping with 240grit,then 400 grit,then 600 grit..then polish with compound will give you the best possable surface..
small tip guys....get a small piece of glass(out of a old picture frame works nice) and place your sandpaper on it.this assures you have a perfectly flat surface ,since 99% of all glass plates are very flat.
Yea, I saw that.
But like could it move enough that the cap tube wouldn't fit in well?
Thanks.
bowman I hope you can still do this stuff in a few months when i get my prommie. i smell money :D
Very nice,how big is a hole for .028 cab tube?
Or its secret:D
Nomather how i cleaned the hsf/water block later i had worse temps than using this method:Quote:
it's all in how you do it...
wax on---------wax off.....
-sand up to 600 gritt dry
-wet 600
-dry 800
-wet 800
-wet 1000
-dry 1000
Later i cleaned the surface with alcohol (wipe off as long as the cottons surface isnt tottaly white), acetone (the same) and last i use chloroform (the same way)... Now i apply my thermal gerease on the surface, wipe it off with some tissues (also cotton- medical use class) and its ready to use, all micropores free of debris, sealed up with thermal gerease. Worth a try, works for me and it takes less time than polishing
My grandfather is here.. some questions.
What temperature are you working at when brazing?
You said you need to tin when silver soldering... is this different to silver brazing? (may be a terminology difference US to UK?)
Ill probably be silver brazing mine (we would say silver soldering)
Really nice guide with great pics! Well done!
:toast:
bling x 2.Quote:
Originally posted by bowman1964
always flatten the base of the evaperator after brasing and not before.because it will warp slightly during the brasing process so flattening the bottom before hand would be a waste of time.
small tip guys....get a small piece of glass(out of a old picture frame works nice) and place your sandpaper on it.this assures you have a perfectly flat surface ,since 99% of all glass plates are very flat.
ok i hope this small guide helps out
bowman
I have tried the lap before brazing thing and you ALWAYS have to do the damn thing again after brazing it as it will get a slight warp no matter how you try to prevent it.
a piece of plate glass works well but a piece of glass from a mirror is usually a hair bit flatter...not that it would make a noticable difference.
one note on lapping -- if you clean the base really well and then draw a grid on the base with a permanent marker you can lap it very lightly and get a really clear indication as to where the high spots are as the marker grid will lap off of the high spots with just a few passes. drawing the grid on the base between switching grits is a good way to check your progress. when you get to 600 or up, the grid will sometimes show high/low areas that were not readily apparent even after using the grid with the more course papers.
I have pics of this somewhere...
anyway, great stuff as usual bowman. :up:
well one thing is i havent taken the time to measure the actual temp while i was brasing,but i would be guessing around 1250 degrees since all you want is the metal hot enough to reach the melting point of the alloy you are using to brase with to just start to melt and flow.Quote:
Originally posted by Holst
My grandfather is here.. some questions.
What temperature are you working at when brazing?
You said you need to tin when silver soldering... is this different to silver brazing? (may be a terminology difference US to UK?)
Ill probably be silver brazing mine (we would say silver soldering)
silver soldering/silver brasing one in the same i would guess.
but i have real silver brasing sticks here at work,but they are a pain to work with in my opinion.and it takes a seperate fluxing compound for them to work.with the alloy i use it contains a small amount of silver and other compounds but is self fluxing which means no other flux is needed..all in one and easy.