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Now first and furthermost I would Love to extend my congrats to CyberDruid of OCN for this great work he has done for me at a completely reasonable price!
To anyone who need someone to power coat point or custom order parts, Cyberdruid is the Man to go to for this sort of thing.
You can see all his works, service prices, 3rd party prices through this link http://www.overclock.net/cyberdruidpc/ I suggest that you contact him if you need anything!!! I highly insist Cyberdruid for your modding needs.
Now you might be wondering why I'm so giddy over him? Well lets have the picture do the talking.
First off came the box in it's appropriate size.
http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/1140/img9236.jpg
Then comes the well thought out packaging shipped out with Insurance to ensure nothing gets harmed in harms way. (Of course if it doesn't, Insurance covers you)
http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/87/img9237v.jpg
The contents in the box of the products I sent to him, came back in far superb quality paint job of a special new formula of Hammer Black semi gloss finish
http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/8687/img9245j.jpg
More
http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/4479/img9246f.jpg
Some more detailed images, some in light to show the texture and quality sheen
http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/7296/img9238b.jpg
http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/3186/img9239.jpg
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/2151/img9248d.jpg
http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/4083/img9249.jpg
Too sexy
Now there was more than just painting. I had Cyber to help me grind down the old fashion fan mounts for the Thermochill HE 120.3 to make them thinner on the sides, the problem was that the old Thermochill models had 27mm fan spacing that resulted incompatibility with some things in the market. Since most mounts required fan spacing of 15mm apart, the simple task of grind down mounts force the radiator to become compatible with that standard. Also the Navig tech station had mounts 20mm apart, since the grind mounts are adjustable anywhere on the radiator thanks to the slide design. I'm able to fit this radiator in nearly all cases in the market by simply siding the positioning of the mounts which makes the spacing smaller. Not all sides had to be grind.
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/4643/img9250p.jpg
Also you might be wondering where I will be using the nexus beam airs, this picture basically shows it's compatible. Thankfully it is, I forgot to measure before I bought them!
http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/1350/img9251i.jpg
Now this weekend I will re-rivet everything back together with the brand new stainless steel rivets, I hope all goes well!
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Time for a minor update
Back in the past when Navig made the switch panel, this is what he made.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...witchpanel.jpg
Simple cheap feeling button switches (every time I hit the button it felt like something is going to break inside), some tailed LEDs one for power and other for HDD, a self made mount for it all, and all attached with plastic rivets.
TO Hell with that! It has to change!
First off you all know I ordered powder coat for all the metal pieces and especially the same plate Navig made himself (Thanks again CyberDruid)
http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/3186/img9239.jpg
I also bought some Lamptron switches from P-PC previously mentioned in my past posts.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=21125
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=4446
Now it's going to be put all together. I soon learned that the plastic rivets were not the same size as the stainless steel ones I bought. To remedy this, I decided to use my left over Stainless button cap screws I have and then use a nut behind it to help keep it in place. The problem was I didn't have the nuts but I did have those brass knurl knobs that I wont be using anymore and next thing you know, it was a perfect substitute. There was a problem, it was brass, not stainless so I thought about it and remember a Nutkicking idea I read long time ago on some forums.
PLASTIC Dip! I had the spray in the garage!
I did not hesitate to use it and I say it came out nice!
http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/3535/img9254.jpg
Next was easy, slide the darn screw and knob it behind. I'm amazed that only an 1hr past since I sprayed it and the rubber is stuck on good.
http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/4355/img9262r.jpg
Repeat 4 times
http://img44.imageshack.us/img44/9004/img9259l.jpg
Done!, SEXY Image
http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/1371/img9264.jpg
Now I have to eventually figure out something for those gaps but that's for later.
Next up I took the liberty to do half the riveting work and let me tell you, it's some scary stuff when you only have one shot at it every time to punch it in because if I do it wrong, then I have to drill it which will destroy the paint job since it is mounted with intense pressure.
Riveted parts close up
http://img44.imageshack.us/img44/9941/img9268p.jpg
Now in this image is the riveted PSU bracket but also a cut piece of foam shoved into a Lian Li HDD cage holder, I'll elaborate more details later.
http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/2128/img9269t.jpg
Here is a image of half the work done, of course some parts are attached by screws and other riveted.
http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/6441/img9270vo.jpg
A side note, I got some nice industrial fans in the mail and let me tell you it took me a long time looking for these in 12v spec. These fans are Comair Rotrons Muffin XL.
http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/8045/img9265.jpg
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...&name=CR344-ND
If your wondering, NO I did not pay 41.69 for each one. I got them on Ebay, some guy was selling it $9 a piece not knowing what it was.
Holding and testing the fan made me know why it's so expensive. Metal Frame, assemble in Mexico, some bendable but break resistant plastic fins, some sort of riveted shaft that I can't remove, good pressure, and teeth on the fins, definitely not for home use.
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Oh my, University and money woes has taking a big toll at me as of late. Not being a math guy, Calculus sucks and eating up 30-40% of my time with tuition and food increases making me scrap for money for so ever!
Anyways I did my best to make some time between full time student, money, girlfriend, etc to have time to finish up this project. Here is an update.
What I decided to do to start off was that I decided to rough up my radiator external with 320 grit sand paper. What I decided to do what to keep the overlay of epoxy as a water resistance surface for the easy to rust metal Thermochill has used on this HE-120.3 and then spray painting over the hammer finish of the Rustoleum spray paint I bought previously.
I also got some 3/8 threading to 1/2 tubing BitsPower barbs for the radiator.
http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/5761/img9285.jpg
Close up
http://img357.imageshack.us/img357/4439/img9287a.jpg
With barbs - Sexy
http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/1314/img9288u.jpg
What also happened was that I had found a 3rd MuffinXL fan for a low price. Of course I solder all the fans with 3 pin tails with heatsink over the solder joint. Tested each one with a fan controller and all fans passed my testing, these things are strong as hell but not as loud as my old DELTA SHE Tri-blades.
http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/1368/img9316l.jpg
While re-adjusting the threaded inserts for the bars to the side of the MDF, the original Navig installed treads were stripped within the MDF itself causing 0 hold when screwing in a screw, I had to pull all of them out and find an alternative.
The problem was that the ones used were the push in type, much less threading and weaker hold than traditional.
What I did was that I bought what MCmastercarr threaded knife inserts. (middle)
http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/5555/img9282.jpg
as you can see, the new Knife insert in the middle is much more heavy duty.
here is an image comparing the two. I also used wood glue for extra hold
http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/7562/img9317v.jpg
Previously Navig used plastic caps for the ends of the bars shown here
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...tion4posts.jpg
I didn't take quite fond with nylon caps because over time when the bench is moved, the feet cracks and consistently pressured and re-pressured while moving with added weight. I decided to myself to change the style and material.
For the top of the bars, I didn't like the over head covering the bar because it made it feel cheap. What I used instead was just end plugs while covering the top with maximum exposure of the nice hammer finish I have.
http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/3260/img9334s.jpg
Next for the feet, Nylon is a bad idea because it cracks if there is too much weight. Since I plan to mount waterccoling, it's going to be hell.
What I did was that I bought steel footing for square tubes with threaded inserts. The problem I had was that metal feet for 3/4 tubing is impossible to find. I had to use 1 inch and mount the interior part as exterior hold with pressure.
http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/2193/img9332a.jpg
It didn't turn out bad at all
http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/5680/img9333g.jpg
Right now I'm still debating whether or not I should screw in some rubber mounts into the threads or keep it as is.
That's it for now, more to come later
