poor permafrost!
once you get it clean are you gunna run it off plain distilled? or try another blue coolant? or get blue tubing and run distilled?
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poor permafrost!
once you get it clean are you gunna run it off plain distilled? or try another blue coolant? or get blue tubing and run distilled?
last post before I go to bed:Quote:
Originally Posted by MulletBoy
the blue Prmochill Pro LRT is already in the build: I will be running plain distilled + nuke, but I have a little trick up my sleeve for the reservoir ;) I will make sure everyone sees it :up:
was the water in your reservoir clear?
my reservoir is clear, but i haven't checked my gtz in 3 months. i'm running poland spring (high quality! ;)) distilled + killcoil
is water you get (poland springs in like the 20 packs or w/e) at the store really distilled or does it make more sense to have actual distilled water? as i already have a ton of poland spring cases here... i wonder if they would work...................
Sniipe... are you going to put blue saraan (spelling O_O) on the clear parts and then some blue leds? that might look nice if done well
as for the gunk.. thats just plain neeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeasty
the silver gunk block posted on the first page... was that with only silver in the loop? or just nothing in general?
Yeah, I can kind of see that happening, based on the photos, But the way the goop was pooled (and crusted) everywhere else in the block, yet the fluid was clear and the mosfet block is seemingly pretty clean? Just weird. Makes me wonder if there was something else at factor here too? :shrug: Like Snipe said, maybe the 24/7 load did it. If so, pretty pathetic.Quote:
Originally Posted by Erasmus354
Looks tasty.
i don't know... i'd think the accelerator did it...
the points that are clogged up... are the points where the particles ram hardest into the material... aka have the most speed and hit a hard flat surface (pins and the injector in the gtz [the mosfet wouldn't have such a complicated matrix and wouldn't have as many flat surfaces for the particles to smash against while the injector accelerated the water to a point where it made that area even "harder" for the particles of "color"])
It seems like it works as the harder it slams into it... the more the particles would break apart and accelerate their aging process and it would cling to the area it broke apart against... idk... this for me explains it mostly... I think the reason it *doesn't* happen to the same extent in other builds... is because of the high heat loads...
I think its a culmination of high pressure and the constant high temperature which both help the particles age faster and *unmix* (can't think of the right word here) from the pre-mix
Just my idea on it any other ideas?
i get them by the gallonQuote:
Originally Posted by orangekiwii
Poland SpringŪ Brand Distilled Water begins with natural spring water. First, the water is passed through an activated carbon filter to remove any volatile organic chemicals, chlorine or any of the potentially unwanted by-products of chlorine such as trihalomethanes. Then, a water softening system uses an ion exchange process to reduce the hardness of the water just prior to the distillation process. Finally, the water passes through micron filtration and ultraviolet light, and is treated with low levels of ozone just before bottling.
Distilled Water packages are available in one-gallon, 2.5-gallon and five-gallon bottles.
Thanks for posting that Snipe. I got one noob who already is a convert after seeing that. Appreciate you taking the time to take pics and post your 'OMG what the heck is that stuff'.........
I got the same kind of gunk build-up in a Fuzion V1 using the feser blue pre-mix. I will never use pre-mixed fluid ever again. :down:Quote:
Originally Posted by Erasmus354
SNiiPE, That's just plain nasty. :sick:
I had a similar build-up (although not as bad) with FreserView UV black/blue dyes after 4 months. The additional stuff on my Enzotech Luna was enough to cause my i7 965 to spontaneously shut off at loads. Also found my not so clear tygon 3606 flaking off whitish membraneous sheets.
Had to rip my rig apart, clean the blocks, radiators, reservoirs and change the tubes to a new set of black Primoflex pro LRT. Running clear distilled water now.
What an experience...:down:
This thread gives me stomach ache :S I'm using 3606 and Feser blue :S It's been in the loop for about 1.5 months, but so far no increase in temps nor decrease in color intensity. This build up has to do with restriction? My EK supreme lt will probably eat the gunk eventually if that's the case.
Cleanest way to run a loop is straight distilled. "STRAIGHT distilled" does not mean "distilled + and additive". That's like saying "I want straight whisky" and he squeezes a lemon into it first.
And I hate to pick on Sniipe because he's already had a bad enough day, but when I read stuff like this: "the blue Prmochill Pro LRT is already in the build: I will be running plain distilled + nuke"
I just shake my head. You just mixed stuff together (primoflex LRT and Feser pre-mix) and now you're going to turn around and do it again??
Primoflex LRT and PT_NUKE both contain biocides, and so does your Feser pre-mix. You just don't mix stuff. Ever. It's really not that complicated. You run PT_NUKE in normal tubing, or you run Feser pre-mix in normal tubing, or you run straight distilled in Primoflex LRT.
A lot of the time I bet we're not hearing the whole story about what goes into a loop. Any contaminant can cause a chemical reaction with whatever's in the dye bottle. Personally I have never encountered anything like this and I've used Feser Blue many times. Maybe the difference is in cleaning methodology? I use Brasso + toothbrush on my blocks, then I used alcohol + different toothbruth, then I use distilled + final toothbrush. What are you guys using the clean your blocks?
Even something as simple as some cleaner residue can react with your dye and/or biocide.
Either way it wouldn't surprise me one bit if the Feser + the PT_NUKE + the Primoflex LRT is what's causing the problem here. This is clearly a chemical reaction because there's been a colour change. This isn't dye clogging something up.
The way I read that statement was that he'd cleaned things up, and set everything back up again using Primochill LRT tubing, using Distilled + PT_Nuke. Unless some mixing did happen earlier, but I don't know if that was implied.
he had only primochill pro lrt and fesser one
and i thought that the anti microbial in the tubing was making it so UV light didnt go into the loop
aww sh*t, i JUST bought primochill tubes with fesser's dye (not the premix) last night. i sure hope this is a premix solution and not the dye only.
.....Quote:
Originally Posted by MpG
Primochill LRT has anti-microbials in it.
PT_NUKE is an anti-microbial.
You take two products that are intended to be used alone, then you mix them.
Don't be surprised when bad things happen.
WOW.
I'm not sure what causes this, it has to be the high temps I guess?
I had the blue Feser One Premix in my build and after 4 months, I took my rig down and there was a TINY bit (One little dot, 1-2mm) of gunk in my Fuzion v2. I may link this to the feser guy on msn :)
Ugh, what a mess. Only straight distilled for me please.
the non premix gets clogged easy and it will slowly fade, thats why alot of people changed to distilled onlyQuote:
Originally Posted by WhiteFireDragon
Quote:
Originally Posted by Linus@ncix
Linus, I do believe you're confusing your Primochill products..........
What is being referred to as Primochill LRT, in shorthand used here, is actually Primochill's Primoflex Pro LRT....the tubing, like seen here:
Primochill Primoflex Pro LRT.
It's just called LRT for short as most know the tubing as that, esp. to differentiate it from Primoflex's other tubing, the plain, surgical tubing soft Primoflex tubing, seen here:
Old, or first gen. Promoflex tubing.
What you're thinking of Linus, I believe, is either Primochill's ICE or Pure premix fluids......
Primochill ICE fluid.
Primochill PURE fluid.
Just an FYI. :)
Silver is the new PT nuke.
IMHO, that's not distilled water. Its DI ( De-Ionized) water that goes through RO (Reverse Osmosis), followed by UV sanitization (NOT sterilization, UV is a very poor sterilizing agent).Quote:
Originally Posted by LOUISSSSS
Distilled water requires the water to be boiled and the steam collected is considered distilled.
Depending on the ion exchange matrix and filter membrane pore size used, DI + RO may produce very pure water, but distilled is still purer. There are also double distilled water for lab grade use, but the cost of producing it in any significant quantity would be prohibitive.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Distilled_water
Why Poland Spring uses spring water as a source truely puzzles me if they planned to REMOVE all the ions, solutes and microbes. It only exhaust the ion exchange matrix and clog the filters faster and increase production cost while totally wasting the potential benefits of spring water.
It would make much better business sense to bottle (and sell) the spring water as such and use tap/lake/rain water to make the purer so-called distilled water.
Anywaysss...thats really nasty looking gunk. Strange that it's only attracted to the GTZ. Have the rad been checked?
i have a feeling that the accelerator was causing increased pressures, as well as cavitation to an extent, maybe not much but fairly high temps + high pressure is going to make any pre-mixed fluid seperate, its a fact of life, add heat and pressure to anything and you accelerate its degradation... honestly if you're folding at home or something like that why are you running colored coolant? pure water is cheaper and will drop temps, maybe not a lot but it will drop temps.
i wonder how something like Lucas Fuel Injector cleaner would do at eating that stuff, i've used it directly on carboned up spark plugs before and it made that carbon nice and easy to remove, either that or some engine degreaser, neither will tear up the copper.