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Yeah, I'm gonna sell it somewhere: "Special edition HK 3.0 with super mirror-polished base! Only 10% more expensive than the standard HK 3.0!"Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparda
Hope the buyer never finds this thread... :p:
No, seriously: I don't know what I'll do next. Maybe try andyc's suggestion.
I might give this a shot next time I'm bored. Thanks for the suggestion. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoffey
What grit was used for the final finish?
I've found that about 800 grit performs the best, I have gone up to a perfectly polished 2000 grit surface and lost a couple degrees of gain.
I have a thread somewhere showing E8500 IHS lapped with different grits. The real key is FLAT not polished :)
Is the CPU lapped?
I bet you get better performance again if you lap the CPU.
Just as I thought. Try to relap unassembled... it may fix it.
everytime I lapped anything I lap for 10 minutes while watching tv and take a break as your hand cramps up then I go at it again I lapped my TRUE over the course of 3 days so when I lap something I lap it good
as somebody already asked:
what about the ihs?
if the ihs itself is not completely flat it might have been in better contact with the unlapped block before lapping.
if the block was convex before lapping and the ihs is concave this might have resulted in perfect contact. now lapping the block completely flat and putting it on the still concave ihs might lead to a bad contact in the center of the ihs, just at the die area!
check the ihs and report back...
Don't mess with German craftsmanship it's already perfect!
Jks aside too bad I would try to re-lap it using the 15min each direction in straight angle rule and start with lower grid.
Another important thing you didn't mention: Is the cpu lapped?
Yeah, this same thing will happen with the Fuzion blocks if you try to lap them assembled.
If you want to lap them you always need to take them apart first and lap with the base all by itself.
The bowing doesn't show until they are assembled, but at least this confirms the base is actually bowed slightly..
Damn, you can not lap things so long time, you will take off to much of water block material, after all it can all ended up with damaged block base after all :ROTF:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ozzfest05
I dont know about base thinness of HK 3.0, but Enzotech-LUNA base is only 1mm, after all I think HK ir even more thinner, maybe 0.5 to 0.7mm as it performs really great!
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3284/...12b1ba.jpg?v=0
So too much long laping will damage block after all, thats my opinion, and no need to lap more as the base is flat pretty soon when laping with correct type of sandpaper :)
I've polished the base without any adverse effect and it took the machine marks out, but these findings are correct the bottom is bowed slightly.
I put this block on a glass table the day I got it. I could have told you it has a very slight bow without having to lap it to find out :D
That said, it has much less of a bow than the Supreme.
Have you tested your newly flat HK on a lapped CPU?
The bow is very slight though, definitely smaller than on the EK Supreme and EK Supreme LT. Can't talk about the Fuzion V2 because that's currently in use :)
HES if your gonna relap it after you pulled the base off, start with 200 grit -> 800 grit.
Use 200 grit sp until you notice your sanding the entire base. Then use 400 -> 600 -> 800. You can go 1000 if you want.
But start at 200.
HES i was told not to jump sand paper when lapping. By jumping sand paper, you create uneven surfaces, so go 200 -> 400 -> 600 -> 800
One concern I'd have with relapping now is the thickness of that base. Does anyone know how thick it actually is?
Is your CPU lapped? what is it @?
get a drill .. with sanding heat bit
get the wool cover, with polishing compound
it's cut the works to 2 mins tops and you're done
Damn and I was going to lap my HK 3.0 CU got the sandpaper and everything...
Is your cpu lapped btw?
Yes my CPU is lapped.
Thanks for the feedback and tips, everyone. I'll give lapping it diassembled a go and see what happens.
screw that base, get a new one dirctly from watercool in germany and cut the old one in 2 pieces so we know how deep those channels are :up:
That's another nice idea. Though I've already messed with the base and I guess one of these measuring caliper thingies would do the job of telling the channel-depth less destructively. :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by generics_user
What have you done to the nice cooler :( :slapass: :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by HESmelaugh
I am very curious if this works as well! I wonder if they manufactured the bottom plate to bow or if it was flat to start then deformed after mounting (intentionally or unintentionally).Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoffey
I guess you could tell right away when you remove the plate and begin lapping if it is the mound that deforms the plate you would have a reverse pattern from what was seen in post 1 of this thread.
I was reading of the benefits of lapping so I like an idiot lapped the Heatkiller 3.0! Its pretty smooth and flat now. No damage that I can detect. I did a mock TIM spreading and I can say that it spreads pretty evenly for a block that use to have a slight raise the size of a quarter. Personally I don't think it will amount to a hill of beans in temp savings or not. Its all how you apply your tim anyhow. I guess I'm old school in that I would like as much as flat contact against the cpu. I didn't see that happening before...
Well, it looks like the second part of this thread was eaten by the downtime-goblin...
I relapped the base of the HK after removing it from the top. That way, when you attach the lapped base back to the top, it bows again and you basically get exactly what you started out with. Same bow, same temps, etc.
So if disassembled the block before lapping, it didn't hurt your temps. :up: