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I might be new around here as registered but i have read these boards for awhile. My opinion here is if NaeKuh speaks its never BS. Naekuh and others who have been on here for a long time know their stuff and they are the reasons why I am going with Distilled water with (killcoils-iandh) silver. if you want color, i think just get UV tubing like Primochill Primoflex LRT tubing.Quote:
Originally Posted by hotdun
Hmm... note to self... uv tubing and feser pure water is what I want.
id honestly just goto the market and pick up a bottle of distilled.Quote:
Originally Posted by moiraesfate
It says distilled right on the jug.
Very true......and I cannot understand how the Feser "water" is called distilled at all. Distillation is defined as being steam distilled. Reverse Osmosis and de-ionizing water is just putting water through a couple of filters, not distilling it.Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
And btw, Sadasius, the notion that steam distillation doesn't remove fluoride is just wrong. Fluoride is completely removed when water is steam distilled......if your water is distilled and the label says it contains fluoride, it was added after the distillation process.
From the Cleveland Clinic, among a host of other sources:
http://my.clevelandclinic.org/drugs/..._fluoride.aspxQuote:
The amount of fluoride your family receives depends on the type of home water treatment system used. Steam distillation systems remove 100 percent of fluoride content. Reverse osmosis systems remove between 65 percent and 95 percent of the fluoride.
speaking from personal experience, ive used almost every single form of coolant.
Ive used redline water wetter way back when we accepted mixing of metals.
Ive used Zerex Racing coolant
Ive used Phosphate free anti freeze, (both elythene and propylene)
Ive gotten anti freeze from a porsche dealer even. (Pentosin)
Ive used flournet, didnt last very long tho <meaning i had a leak and poof went all my flournet> (expensive as faq tho)
My list of Premixes also goes on for quite a while. :X
Dyes and colors, its fun, and i dont advice in never using them. Everyone needs there bling.
However sitting over a sink the next day with a toothbrush scrubbing your pins is not fun.
Getting very cloudy tubing is also not fun, expecially if you have OCD on your computer.
:T
I have used a variety of coolants and no matter which one I used the clear tubes always got cloudy. I do think that Feser One is a strong enough color that you don't really notice it as much, until you drain the coolant out of the loop and you're able to see your tubing in the flesh.
If I wanted colored coolant I'll use Feser One. If I want to make it simple and last a long time I'll use colored tubing and good ol distilled h2o. And I've even probably use colored tubing and Feser One coolant.
Between plasticizer leeching, radiator flux, contaminants, and the unknown there are just too many variables to have one good solution. Focus on minimizing each variable for your desired result.
Sorry not trying to pick a fight...tough day. All I'm saying is that the plactisizer release isn't accelerated by additives. I think additives may increase cloudiness of the tubing for other reasons but I've run straight distilled and still get the cloudiness.Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
My loop has been up for about a year, not a spot of clouding. I followed NaeKuh's advice, plain distilled and never drained. Not a cloudy spot one yet on two full loops.
Plasticzer's in tubing are water soluable....Quote:
Originally Posted by gillbot
check the sticky by MaxxRacer .. stating that you HAVE to use a miniature water filter to junk out those dust, or some particles left over during sholdering of the rad
i used to think the plasticizers failed on me .. but atlast .. it's not the case
if plasticizers fail .. it means the whole tube literally crumbles .. yes, i mean crumbles .. just like recycleable plastic bags
but so far i could not find any findings on plasticizers failing or thinning of the tube ..
so just like the MaxxRacer said ... the leftover particles .. after filtering .. there's no more prob .. only slight gunk from the washing with pipe water instead of distilled
hope this helps
i have been using this is stuff http://www.petrastechshop.com/7id5odmagepu.html last 2-4 months with fesser veiw blue dye. nothing yet
That's not water, that's acid....Fester even says so, just read the description. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by railmeat
UV tubing and grocery store distilled water works for me. It used to drive me nuts having a UV dye run loop look like crap within just a couple of months, many times the dye would fade within just a few weeks. I haven't had the same problem since going UV tubing and ordinary grocery store distilled water. My reservoir and large clear King Flowmeters are just as crystal clear as they were when I filled it several months ago.
Nix the dyes and go clean water with a few drops of PTnuke. If you want color, go with UV colored tubing. You don't need fancy overpriced distilled or filtered water, your ordinary $1/gallon grocery store distilled water work just as well.
I just use black tubing I never has fogging issues and I maintain my loop quite well
I tuned into this thread in order to read current opinions on clouding, not to see the latest excuses for why some people simply can't be wrong.Quote:
Originally Posted by NeKoS
TBH, there have been many, many statements about what the best coolant is over the years, and like someone said, one person with X will get clouding, while another person who uses X won't. To me this means that the jury is still out.Quote:
and they are the reasons why I am going with Distilled water with (killcoils-iandh) silver. if you want color, i think just get UV tubing like Primochill Primoflex LRT tubing.
I've used 50/50 antifreeze for my outdoor rigs with no degradation of my Tygon after nearly 4 years. Water will make some compounds of tubing cloud almost instantly. Nothing to do about it. I've also used PC Ice for at least 3 years with great results. Some dye may temporarily stain tubing. I find that white vinegar with water (10/90) instantly removes any stains or blush. ThermoChill rads will introduce a pink blush if not properly flushed first. I think anti-algae additives are ridiculous. If you have clean hands, clean tubes, clean parts (which they should be before you install) there is no chance of bacterial growth in a closed loop with distilled or purified water.
I can't believe that people still cling to the belief that algae mysteriously enters their pristine sealed loop and starts forming colonies...that's just nuts. If your fluid is pure there is absolutely no algae being introduced to your system. If you leave your loop open obviously airborne contaminants could introduce life...so don't run an open loop.
Most of the scudge people think is algae is the plasticizer leaching from the tubing.
Fog and Plasticizer-Leach are sometimes related...but not always.
The only way to truly avoid any issues with fog or other maintenance is to use something Like PC Ice. The stuff lasts for a long long time.
This is exactly what my experience has been with exotic premix/homebrew coolant. I've been using a combination of $1/a bottle distilled, killcoils, some silver-plated barbs and LRT for 2-weeks. I know it's too early to tell, but so far I'm very please with the results. My res is crystal clear with no buildup along the water-line so far. I must say, after 8-years of trail-and-error, TRUE water cooling is pretty sweet! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
I have been using a 50/50 glycol/water mix for 8 months now, and no clouding in Tygon R3603. My highest temps get between 50-60C.
The only reason I use the glycol/water mix is that I get it for free from a friend that works at Atmel, the semiconductor manufacturer... It is 99.99999999% pure, and is a perfect 50/50 mix. I figure if it is good enough for cooling a chamber in a fab, it is good enough for me. Best part is, it doesn't smell like antifreeze, because it is just the glycol, not the bad smelling/bad tasting additives they put in antifreeze to keep people from drinking it. It has no smell whatsoever.
Now, if only I had an outdoor radiator setup that could actually benefit from the Glycol.... Hehe
everyone read this FULLY::::::
i talked to the ENGINEER AGAIN today on the phone at TYGON and he said "tygon r3603" has a very hi water consumption rate vs tygon 2075" he also stated and this is straight from a TYGON engy "if u add ANY type of antifreeze,coolant,additave that even has thee slighest bit of color to it expecet clouding and hazing as the inner walls will asorb this and STAIN PERIOD".now glycol and other crap in these additaves are "safe" for the tubing but WILL STAIN FOG\HAZE.
thee best best is no DYES,any kind of additave at all minus a drop or 2 of antibacterial CLEAR drops,thee worst is colored products sites sell including anitfreeze etc.these are ONLY for tempoary looks and attempts to control temps.forget the hype,they ALL stain tubing.
distilled water,fesser 1 pure water,and colorless liquids containing no "harsh"siliates,glycol additaves will do the best.or even regular distilled water i guess...i dont care about the $30.i wanna see for myself and say i tried the best distilled water money can buy.my pc is worth it.i simply don,t want anymore headaches.
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and for the guys calling fesser 1 aqua pure water not distilled.your WRONG its bi -distilled water,meaning twice distilled.
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/feaqfaulpuwa.html
We have done it again with an even purer type of coolant, Feser Aqua which is a Bi-Distilled water (2 times distilled) and specially designed for today's PC water-cooling market.
If your seeking a pure non conductive coolant with no dye pigments to corrupt the solution then this is 100% what you have been looking for! Feser Aqua is the cleanest source on the market today. Feser Aqua or FA for short was filtered through 2 different processes of distillation, hence the term Bi-Distilled! Feser Aqua has to first of all passed through the reverse osmosis system, and shortly after this into the down streamed De-Ionized system. The PH-Value is 2.0 – 3.0 and lies in the acid ph-range.
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will keep u guys updated when my fesser gets here,with photos.if u ppl are curiuos on how i exit all my water from my loop.....i use a shop vac on my exit line and in 20seconds its %99 out and ready to be refilled with this new fesser crap...bleh.
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as far as the NOT draining your loop ever theory goes.......ever see water trickle over mountains?the water actually threw the years cuts right threw rock!!its called the principle of erosion.
he explained water or ANY liquid moving threw\over metal composites will slowly break small parts per million(ppm)in your system and u SHOULD flush once a year or like im going to do every 6 months or so.worth it.im not replacing my tubing for awhile this time around hopefully.im not going to argue with a engineer from tygon...
all that is this big jug im showing you at an uber inflated price:
http://www.chemistryland.com/CHM107L...illedWater.jpg
and you just repeated everything i said in this thread. :rofl:
You just got conn'd by the fesser pure water BS. :X
From what I can gather, water has ph level of about 7. Distillation shouldn't change that. I wonder why the ph level of the feser aqua is down to 2-3. Or if that has any bearing on anything at all?
dude i make $21 hour\$31.50 overtime,i could care less about the money.the fesser 1 PURE water looks better to me then $0.69 cent jug of distilled water.mabye your right...but mabye not.Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
you are right tho about running plain distilled water,bi-distilled or not.:up: and i would like to comment and your nice rig again.nice clean work...i like that.very rare.
heres my other rig(evil grin),i get conned i guess evertime to put full synthetic oil in it.
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j11/bf2nut/car4.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j11/bf2nut/car3.jpg
My tubing gets fogged up when I blow throught it.