Thanks for the suggestion, I'll check it out.Quote:
Originally Posted by anubis_is_evil
Printable View
Thanks for the suggestion, I'll check it out.Quote:
Originally Posted by anubis_is_evil
That is correct. I had to remove the rear bay completely as it blocked the radiator and the tubes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mav451
For securing the HD bay, I've drilled 4 holes with the dremel, and then simply screwed it on with the screws that came with the case. I don't remove my HD, so this works for me. If you prefer to keep it removable, you could dremel the same shape that's on the bottom of the rear bay, but it would take more time.
The HD cage already has threaded holes on it. Flip the case on its head, then you get pretty good access to it. I did that step very early when the case was still naked. Also, don't forget to flip the fan to blow from the front to backwards. Simple, but works pretty good. :up:
Update!
After nearly two months, the D-Tek 1366 mount is ready. And here it is:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/ww2...n/IMG_1978.jpg
Looks pretty awesome, and works well. I was not planning on running my water loop on plain distilled water for this long. Plants and fish started to take over my loop :shakes: My water block was dark green, but a few minutes in the vinegar turned it nice and shiny. Unfortunately, I took no pics of it.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/ww2...n/IMG_1979.jpg
My tubes were also turning a bit muddy, so I've soaked them in 50% vinegar + water... Cleaned it up real fast.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/ww2...n/IMG_1980.jpg
Likewise, I used a little vinegar for the radiator. And here's the deal:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/ww2...n/IMG_1982.jpg
D-Tek Fuzion V2 with 1366 pro-mount. The backplate pretty much stays in place, so you can remove the block without removing the motherboard every time as well.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/ww2...n/IMG_1983.jpg
Pentosin in the CPU loop.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/ww2...n/IMG_1985.jpg
All the cables hidden behind the motherboard backplate. It was a challenge to squeeze them in there...
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/ww2...n/IMG_1995.jpg
Case assembled.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/ww2...n/IMG_1996.jpg
CPU cooler mounted.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/ww2...n/IMG_1991.jpg
Pumps & video cards.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/ww2...n/IMG_2000.jpg
View through the side window.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/ww2...n/IMG_2007.jpg
Glowing... I declare the project complete until the next upgrade :wiggle:
Wow, looks great! With regards to the shot of the green tubes going into your rad...is that what color they had gotten to? :eek:
No, my GPU loop has Hydrx in it :) The green glow is by design. It did not have the same issue as the plain water loop. All you could see was that the tube turned a bit more murky, but only if you looked close.Quote:
Originally Posted by headala
On another note, my temps dropped significantly. I can now hit 4.1GHz with HT on and 1.425 VCore and my temps are still lower than with the zip-tie mount.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/ww2...n/41_HT_On.png
4.2GHz with HT on takes 1.475 VCore in the bios. I could not get there with the zip ties, but the new mount keeps my temps better in control. Might try to go for that later. For now, I've decided to stick with 21x195 for 24/7 use.
I've found the final settings for my video cards as well, 756 core/1512 shader/1269 memory. I'm limited by the shader setting as once I increase that, Furmark crashes. I got 61 C max after 45 minutes Furmark, so no heat issues with the video cards either.