SOLVED: EK FC on HD4870 X2 no POST

Thanks for all the support guys

I did what everyone told me to an used paper washers on all the M3 x 6mm cap screws and the cards work fine.

In reponse to the question about what the LEDs mean. It's easy to test. Unplug a power lead and watch and LED light. If you plug it back in it still stays lit. The on furthest from the Backplane indicates critical core fault the next one over the powerconnector furthest from the backplane the next LED form that (the middle of 5) Indicates the next power lead over is unpluugged. Not sure about the 4th one but the 5th one I belive indicates a high temp and throttling occurring.

I am still not real happy about the scenario. The blocks cost top dollar. If there is an issue the MFR should do more than post it on their site and alter their PDF. The blocks I received had no washers, no updated PDF...leaving me totally in the dark.

I've done this stuff before...so when things go wrong and I can't fix them I go berserk. Thanks again fro the info.

The blocks are providing excellent temps right now (mid 30C idle mid 40C load) and look fantastic.

i also got this block but mine included paper washers (6 of them) i havent installed it yet but will probably do so today or tomorrow

ps: for all it matters i got the Copper, Acryllic top version

Maybe you should contact EK and just tell them hey this stuff causes problems, fix it. The gaps on the mount holes do look pretty bad :shakes:
Shame to see that from EK, I expect better from them.

I had this same issue with one of my 4870X2's using the Ek fc blocks, one card would boot and one wouldn't. After saying several bad words I started thinking about a safe way to test the card to cooler short. The best way I found was to use a multimeter and test for continuity between the block and power circuit to the card ( back solder points behind PCIe plugs), I initially tested mine and found about 2.2 ohms from block to ground and 5 ohms from power to block on one card and 13k ohms from power ckt to block on the one that worked.

I went one by one through the screws trying to find a single culprit for the short and while I would get fluctuations in resistance continuity was still present, I removed all the short screws and put fiber washers under them ( I didn't get washers with either of my kits). I finally got it solved by removing the scew that goes through the card to brace the I/O plate, once it was removed continuity went to 13k from power ckt to block and it boots.

great to hear you got them up and running CyberDruid :up:

Just out of curiosity was it the washers that was the issue or one of the screws being overtightened?

Washers. I barely tightened the screw in the first place since if you do more than that the card starts to look like snakes on a plane. My usual process is to install all the screws then crisscross them until quite snug then to let off on the perimeter screws until the card is straight again. I usually have the ram/GPU area tight..but this time I loosened each screwand just barely let it tighten since the TIM is doing the job...

Getting great temps and everything is working as I expect it should.

Thanks again.

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/8...spec125bi1.jpg

Thanks - that looks awesome :up:

I wish I had the funds to buy a second :yepp:

http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/3...spec065tk3.jpg

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/9...spec071tu7.jpg

Slots are real close on the P5E3...going to have to get jiggy with some BP fittings.

CD how about using an aquatuning or koolance bridge in between those cards?

Koolance has 1 space 2 space and 3 space hard mount fittings.

http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...product_id=400

http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...cnt-vd2_p1.jpg

http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...cnt-vd2_p0.jpg

and yes you can mount instu, the fitting is rotary.

I use the larger ones: <here i hard piped 2 DDC-2>
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0006.jpg

Here i used them for my HD3870's:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_1148.jpg

Naekuh,

Do you know the ID of the passthrough? Looks kind of skinny to me.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by IanY

Naekuh,

Do you know the ID of the passthrough? Looks kind of skinny to me.

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most likely 1/4 like the G1/4 thread.

Its a straight passthough iany.

just installed mine too using the washers from the package and everything works fine.
personally i didnt really have any problems with it
performs as great as it looks too :D

ps: putting a block on this card has increased my case temps a LOT (its a little messy in there maybe thats the reason but who cares? :D )

I'm trying to solve a problem with mine. I've installed the block three times now.

First off I did get the paper washers and also instructions I believe to not over tighten.

The score is that I'm getting lockups. On the second time of removing the block, I was intending to take the card back. I stuck the stock air cooling back on, and put the card back in the machine just to check some stuff and the lockups had gone.

There's so many parameters that I don't know if it's drivers or not. Anyway have stuck the block back on and I'm getting lockups again. Can't make it through 3dmark06 at 750/900. The key thing is that I am hearing that high pitch sound. More intense when 1.25v are going through the card.

I wonder if that's due to the screws being over tightened? I'm going to try and loosen them up a bit. Fun'n'games.

RLM

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hellcamino

I had this same issue with one of my 4870X2's using the Ek fc blocks, one card would boot and one wouldn't. After saying several bad words I started thinking about a safe way to test the card to cooler short. The best way I found was to use a multimeter and test for continuity between the block and power circuit to the card ( back solder points behind PCIe plugs), I initially tested mine and found about 2.2 ohms from block to ground and 5 ohms from power to block on one card and 13k ohms from power ckt to block on the one that worked.

I went one by one through the screws trying to find a single culprit for the short and while I would get fluctuations in resistance continuity was still present, I removed all the short screws and put fiber washers under them ( I didn't get washers with either of my kits). I finally got it solved by removing the scew that goes through the card to brace the I/O plate, once it was removed continuity went to 13k from power ckt to block and it boots.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by RLM

I'm trying to solve a problem with mine. I've installed the block three times now.

First off I did get the paper washers and also instructions I believe to not over tighten.

The score is that I'm getting lockups. On the second time of removing the block, I was intending to take the card back. I stuck the stock air cooling back on, and put the card back in the machine just to check some stuff and the lockups had gone.

There's so many parameters that I don't know if it's drivers or not. Anyway have stuck the block back on and I'm getting lockups again. Can't make it through 3dmark06 at 750/900. The key thing is that I am hearing that high pitch sound. More intense when 1.25v are going through the card.

I wonder if that's due to the screws being over tightened? I'm going to try and loosen them up a bit. Fun'n'games.

RLM

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It's not fun at all and shows that there is a design flaw in the block. Despite it's great looks and great cooling if it shorts out your $550 card you are going to be PISSED.

Try painting the screw heads and part of the thread with nailpolish a few coats to make a dielectric barrier. I think that if the edge of the screw touches the ring of solder on the hole it's bad.

And try taking out that screw highlighted in the quote above yours.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NaeKuh

CD how about using an aquatuning or koolance bridge in between those cards?

Koolance has 1 space 2 space and 3 space hard mount fittings.

and yes you can mount instu, the fitting is rotary.

I use the larger ones: <here i hard piped 2 DDC-2>


Here i used them for my HD3870's:

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Hey Pardner I will look into that. It's clearly the cleanest solution. I am using 3/8ID-1/2OD Feser tubing in this build so once I get all the fittings I'll be set.

I was thinking of using Koolance for compression fittings since they have a larger barb and DD Rotaries since I don't need to advertise the MFR name on every single part I install...unless they pay me.

Hint hint.

Quote:

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Try painting the screw heads and part of the thread with nailpolish a few coats to make a dielectric barrier. I think that if the edge of the screw touches the ring of solder on the hole it's bad.

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That's a bloody good idea.

I'd like to know, is anyone else hearing a high pitch sound coming from their card? I'm guessing you wouldn't notice with the stock fan on. I tend to get it during loading in between the 3dmark06 benches. I know from experience that sound is ominous. lol.

RLM

A cap? There's like one capacitor :D

EDIT

Doh

There's a mess of caps...I just was not looking at the other side of my card lol.

I betcha that's the sound you are hearing. There are no coils that I can see...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CyberDruid

Hey Pardner I will look into that. It's clearly the cleanest solution. I am using 3/8ID-1/2OD Feser tubing in this build so once I get all the fittings I'll be set.

I was thinking of using Koolance for compression fittings since they have a larger barb and DD Rotaries since I don't need to advertise the MFR name on every single part I install...unless they pay me.

Hint hint.

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ROFL..

sandpaper and scratch it off, or paint it.

:rofl:

The passthough is a 1 fit, meaning it fits directly on the G1/4.

And the cards rotate so installation isnt as bad since your dropping 2 cards in at the same time and there locked like that.

CD Also Quick Discconects on the GPU line. I dont think your client will care about the reduction flow in his gpu line, expecially when he wont see a noticable hit on temps, and will make YOUR life easier when you need to service it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Giannis86

ps: putting a block on this card has increased my case temps a LOT (its a little messy in there maybe thats the reason but who cares? :D )

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that makes no sense because the full card block should take brunt heat of the card and move it to your radiator. If your case temps went up, that is confusing. Where does your rad exhaust to?

Well you live and learn. The over tightening was the cause of my problems. Running through 3dmark just fine now. It does say on the instructions to use a small amount of force when tightening the screws. Doesn't take much to over do it.

Your

Quote:

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the card starts to look like snakes on a plane

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certainly came to mind when I checked it.

Thanks.

RLM

SWEET. Glad this issue is easily resolved.

Still sucks to have an issue at all.

Those blocks look hella sexy!

Glad you got the problem fixed.

On another Forum where I started a thread like this a guy said he used some electrical tape where he thought the card was (:p:) inappropriately the touching the block and tightened it down as much as he thought it needed.Worked for him. More than one way to fix this issue

Hmm, i have the HD4870 EK full cover block, it didn't come with any washers...:( Let's hope it works when i turn the system on sometime next week...