Somebody know if we can order this block somewhere in Europe. In the evaga site, there are only the options "usa" or "canada".
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Somebody know if we can order this block somewhere in Europe. In the evaga site, there are only the options "usa" or "canada".
There is a bloke from the uk that got one delivered.
You might try posting that question on the EVGA forum. I know jAkUp posted on this thread, and he works for EVGA. Of course, if the EK block comes out with the backplate, I am betting that would be a very nice alternative, given the quality of their other blocks.
Ok, thanks for the response.
I have an EK and wait since more than 1 month they release the ram waterblock.
I want a good block that cool also the ram on the top of the card. At 1300mhz, the gddr3 getting hot ....
There is the danger den block, but I don't like the acrylic top.
Just receive my eVGA black pearl.
Quick test (this is not the max stable) : room temperature around 25°C, loop : see below
http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/4...markjb9.th.jpg
FYI, if anyone wants the Acrylic version, it is available now:
http://www.evga.com/products/moreInf...eries%20Family
http://www.evga.com/Products/images/...89-A1_LG_6.jpg
Wow! $630 USD? My brain hurts... Is it available alone?:shrug:
must not yet be updated in their site... i would also wish for the block only with clear acrylic top...
Does anyone know if you order the HC from EVGA does the card come pre assembled with the block already on it?
You just need to fix the fittings.
I've seen taht there is a gap between the heat pipe of the alumium plate and the block, and that the two screws that fixe this two parts together miss :rolleyes:
I personally love the design. But like I said earlier, the block is expensive and doesn't come alone so far...:(
Thanks for the advice Andy, but I think that the D-Tek FuZion GFX V2 + the uni-sink would be the best option. Though I am still considering FC-blocks.:)
Two screws are missing and I've just seen that all the thermal pads on the v-ram are missing too on the up side of the card.
This kind of work for a 650€ card is really a shame :shakes:
I just receive the message from the technic support from eVGA :
"Sie haben eine Karte mit dem überarbeiteten Kühler der sogar etwas besser arbeitet. Die Backplate ist nur noch zur Stabilisierung gedacht und dient nicht der Wärmeableitung, da fast die gesamte Hitze auf der anderen Seite anfällt, wo sie vom wasserdurchflossenen Kupferblock abgeführt wird. Bitte belassen Sie den Kühler so und ziehen Sie keine Schrauben nach, da pro Schraube ein genauer Anpressdruck eingehalten werden muss. Wir haben jede HC-Karte auch nach dem Umbau noch mal an einen Wasserkreislauf angeschlossen und getestet."
My german is bad and I use the google translator.
If I understand, the ram-sink is no more use to cool the ram. They use it now only like a back-plate :cool:
yea the block doesnt look as refined as the Ek and DD ones, but 1 thing that I really liked was how they did their backplate for the ram, it has a flat heatpipe inset on the inside of the aluminum plate.
Probably the best soloution there aside from the EK watercooled backplate option :D (any backplate I think removes the possibility of having a soundcard in the very top PCI-E 1x slot unfortunately it seems, so unsure if the added depth of that block has any drawbacks over the plates)
If the back-plate no more cool the ram, a danger den or EK will do the same, maybe better, for cheaper.
I remove the block and their TIM (kind of arctic ceramic) and use noctua NT H1. I gain 5-6°C :
http://img393.imageshack.us/img393/2...ctuatv7.th.jpghttp://img393.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif
Here's a translation for you: You have a card with a revised cooler which functions even better (than the original version). The backplate is only intended for stability and does not serve a cooling purpose as almost all of the heat is generated from the other side of the card where it is removed by the watercooled block. Please leave the cooler as it is and do not tighten (or loosen) any of the screws as each individual screw must maintain an exact pressure. After we install the waterblocks on the cards, we once again test each one in a watercooling loop.
Ok, thank you. I understood well the strange translation of google but I had some doubt.