where are the rad fans?
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where are the rad fans?
cool idea! Can't wait to see it finished :up:
man so much work! :D nice! :up:
geez, nice work man!
love your build log:D
heh this is just teasing me , quit strip teasing me..
nice, i see where the fans go now. really cool.... makes me want to pick up an Antec 300 to play with :)
Nice metalwork on the case. I like it. I have some experience with the nibblers, they are ideal for doing metalwork on noname and thin aluminium cases. I've used mine to cut a window hole on an Antec SLK 3000B side panel (0,8 mm SECC steel).
Nice, very nice work!
Part 7: A non-update, and :shakes: to EK
Sorry for the lack of updates. This build is still alive and well, but was put on hold for the last couple of weeks due to 1) flu, 2) company workshops, and 3) waiting for some parts to arrive. Basically, all the cutting and drilling is done, and the case has been de-riveted into 6 major sections + other smaller parts, ready for the trip to the powdercoaters.
I did run into snags with parts. I ordered a 2nd G3/8-G1/4 reducer from ChilledPC-UK, which turned out to be different from my first one, and doesn't screw in all the way. I've ordered a few more and hope to get just 1 more good one out of them. If not...then it's time to think of another solution.
For the res, I've settled on an EK150 tube res. However...
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/5039/dscn0015bd2.jpg
http://img390.imageshack.us/img390/9288/dscn0016ka7.jpg
There's some major fubar in the threading on the lower cap, and I'm waiting for a replacement to arrive. It couldn't have happened in transit, since the acrylic part and the rest of the package are flawless. Must be bad QC:shakes::shakes:
I still have an unopened Koolance 80mm res, and unused Bitspower 5.25" POM bay res sitting around. Maybe I can do a short review of those for kicks, after the case is sent off for painting.
Nice. Looking forward to the updates when they do come! I am currently planning out my first "proper" watercooling install (i.e. not coolermaster kits etc..) so it will be interesting to see what you fit into a case of this size! Enjoying the mods so far.
Thanks Shogan. TBH my biggest constraints are:
1. Size of the case
2. Everything MUST be internal (OCD)
3. NO rad on top (OCD, I dislike top openings)
With that said I'd recommend going for the largest/best case you can afford if you're serious about watercooling. This Duckling is more to see if I can turn a budget steel case into something classy, and cool some nice hardware as a bonus.
For performance, capacity, and something that I'd never have to move, I'd certainly go for a LiLi full tower, 343B, or a MountainMods cube.
Yay, got an envelope from ChilledPC-UK. Out of the total 5 reducers I've ordered from them so far, I needed at least 2, and now I have 3 good ones (the other 2 are too long). If only they would clean up their stock and only sell the good ones from now on.
The 3 at the bottom are the "good" ones. The other 2 are "bad" ones. The difference is very small. On the good ones the nut flange is slightly bigger and thicker, while on the bad ones the threaded portion is slightly longer. Also, the finish on the good ones is a bit duller compared to the bad ones.
http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/8762/dscn0020xc0.jpg
Anyway, now I can do this:
http://img365.imageshack.us/img365/7148/dscn0019kw7.jpg
subd. looking sweet.
Part 8: Res and pump
Just a quick update on the parts I've received and will be using, and their arrangement:
The primary drain:
http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/4325/dscn0035vt6.jpg
Replacement EK res bottom. Much better than the last one!!
http://img357.imageshack.us/img357/9977/dscn0036ij4.jpg
A preview. Waiting for another BP G1/4 male-to-male to connect the pump to the res. I have 3 Koolance couplers (like the one on there now) but they're simply too...unforgiving. They are either too loose, or tighten to the same specific angle. BP o-rings are thicker, there's a wider range of final angles which are still tight enough to be leak-proof.
http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/7573/dscn0039tj6.jpg
Other updates:
-Due to some mishaps and bad measurements, I will need to buy another Antec 300 :(. I want a new bottom panel to work with. Although they cost only as much as an EK Supreme, I'm still disappointed in myself.
-I cracked the EK anti-cyclone piece with almost no effort. :(
-Lots of tubing choices. I will take some pics once they are all in. Black? Sleeved? Orange?
Looking good, good idea for a drain
Part 9: Thread adapters, and disappointment! :(
A small padded envelope arrived. Two small but necessary parts (BP NPSM adapters):
http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/8732/dscn1479kc6.jpg
Compression fittings attached to adapters:
http://img372.imageshack.us/img372/9659/dscn1480cp4.jpg
Shiny and I like it! I wasn't happy with using G1/4 fittings on this block, short threads and recessed o-rings did not give me a sense of security. This seals MUCH better.
http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/994/dscn1481kr4.jpg
The fittings just clear the mounting plate. Larger comp fittings would not work.
http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/7245/dscn1482pd8.jpg
Now time for something different. Gonna use that Gerber locking pigsticker to cut some tubing...
http://img361.imageshack.us/img361/7687/dscn1483rx5.jpg
Techflex PET:
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/1945/dscn1484bd1.jpg
Happy and excited to do something cool!
http://img361.imageshack.us/img361/3494/dscn1485zk6.jpg
......
Alright I'm gonna spoil it...I tried to sleeve the tubing with compression fittings on the ends. It was, a complete super DISASTER. The sleeving frayed horribly. Trimming the ends to clear the comp fitting thread sent orange strands flying. The compression ring would not screw down properly, I guess tubing + sleeve is too thick. I made such a mess that I was too anxious to clean it up, and didn't even take a photo :(
Pros (Charles?), I need help...how do you do it. Am I using the wrong sleeving? Should this work with comp fittings, or only with barbs + heatshrink?? :confused:
Next update: How to make a better, but not entirely original, res mount.
ohhh nooo...
i Was planning to do the same with my build but i had a feeling the sleeving + the tubing would be too big to fit the comps!!! :( i was right!
VirtualRain did it, but he used Koolance barbs..
Big Daddy: Thanks for the link, I forgot about that project.
Disruptfam: Sorry bro. Hope you can figure something out then we both benefit.
I took another shot, being extra careful to cut the sleeve to the same length as the tube...
http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/6...evetubejo2.jpg
It's closer, but still crap :mad:. Notice the ends where the orange strands are unraveling, and the comp fitting collars cannot be screwed on completely. I have some Koolance comp fittings but too tired for another go. I was also hoping the sleeve would be more "dense" but black and orange doesn't look bad. In fact it matches the rest of my project.
However, I don't think this is the way to go. At least not with this kind of sleeve. Nevermind, I have some other tubing on the way...
i will have to try it myself... hopefully it works out well
i will be using the mdpc sleeving the same sleeving charles used...i will post when i receive it
Part 10: Building a custom "Omega" res mount (and a poor man's metal brake)
As promised (for the 2~3 of you still following this thread:welcome:;)). And here we go.
We start with this, 3/4" wide aluminum strip.
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/9125/dscn1487zm5.jpg
Then we go here. EK res is 50mm diameter (yeah I'm bad at math and measurements). We need the circumference.
http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/8558/untitledsk8.jpg
Mark it, and leave some material to spare at the ends...
http://img55.imageshack.us/img55/1172/dscn1488kk9.jpg
Place a 1/8" thick AL angle bar against the edge of my cheap IKEA desk. This stuff is light, but very stiff. Lay the measured strip perpendicularly, like so.
http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/5489/dscn1491sz5.jpg
Then we take another thick AL angle bar...
http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/237/dscn1492tw4.jpg
And push against the original. Push hard!!
http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/6290/dscn1493cf7.jpg
x2 and you get this. Right-angles. Pretty basic stuff.
http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/8216/dscn1494kr3.jpg
Now I need my original, poorly-threaded EK res bottom. It's lucky I kept it because I don't want to scuff up the good one.
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/7333/dscn1495kr7.jpg
Do this.
http://img395.imageshack.us/img395/5481/dscn1473yr7.jpg
Then clamp and drill.
http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/39/dscn1496wx1.jpg
Almost there.
http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/7563/dscn1497in7.jpg
Two more bends (these were difficult), and here's what we have (that's why I call it an Omega mount).
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/6170/dscn1498du4.jpg
Drill 2 more holes in the backplate and trim the ends of the Omega.
And here's the final placement. The res itself is height adjustable to a degree, just loosen the clamp and shift. The bracket is attached by 2 more of the same small bolts, shown above.
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/5749/dscn1502ax2.jpg
Yeah I know. The powder coating is way way overdue.
Hope you enjoyed it :cool:! and hope some of you found this useful. I certainly prefer this over the stock plastic kind.
I first saw this idea in someone's SFF or horizontal-mobo build, done with a BP water tank Z. But I can't find it anymore. Credits go to him/her.
Very nice work!
Nice and cheap holder :up:
Hmm wish i thought about that before i powdercoated my case. The stock clear ress holders are so fragile. Broke 1 already.