How to you make the sections and how to do do the horizontal passage?
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How to you make the sections and how to do do the horizontal passage?
i made for my first try avaporators by intel copper cores , very great result (i think so the intel copper core is 100% pure copper )
How do you get that enclosure off ?
Bend Back the fins or snap them off enough to be able to hacksaw down the side leaving 1mm of aluminum left then score it with a stanly knife or dremmel then press out the core very easy after that
what i do is drill right through the bottom to make the gas pasage then braze back up the ends when im done i think the bases of them are around 3/4 inch thick so they absorb a lot of heat when you put the channels inside
the base il draw a diagram for you and as for the sections i use copper plates 2mm thick cut into circles then drill a tiny hole in the centre for the captube then a larger whole to the side for suction i make around 4 of these then braze them in place one after another.
Here,s a diagram to help you
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/roberts0n/XS/evap22.jpg
Here,s a little update some pics of the finished intel evap after drilled gas tubes inside it are finished and the sections have been brazed in as shown in the diagram above, and its been polished and mounted and fitted to the ss unit
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/roberts...3/fin1evap.jpg
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/roberts...3/fin2evap.jpg
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/roberts...3/lineset1.jpg
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/roberts...3/lineset2.jpg
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/roberts...3/lineset3.jpg
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/roberts...3/lineset4.jpg
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/roberts...ont%20view.jpg
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/roberts...top%20view.jpg
Not much left to finish now, a little wiring and the controller to build, switch and small 12v Power supply.
Then Temp display, Gas it up leak test and see what she can do Il update some more hopefully tomorrow
and i wont finish this thread without adding my load testers in.
Hope you like the pics :up:
why would i need to take it off ? it fits every kind of cpu and mobo thats out there.
But if i did want to remove it all i would do is flat two sides of the lip then make the same shape in the enclose and a simple turn of 90 degrees would remove the enclosure like so
So there would,nt need to be a snap ring simple twist and remove
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/roberts...3/untitled.JPG
Well you might want to take it off so you wouldn't have to cut a hole it would fit through in a pc case.
I tried that method to make one removable a long time ago, it works.... sort of. You may run into issues though, I tried it with 2 flat sides like your drawing, and another with 4 flats, neither was acceptable, IMO.
i make a recess in the enclosure that it sits snug into that way it is acceptable if its done correctly its more than exceptable its actualy perfect
because once it sits into the 2mm shaped recess it can not turn so it does not come out !
But i dont need to remove it, also you could still fit it through a whole cut in the bottom of a pc case in a u shape ive installed before into cases without needing to remove it using a small whole cut next to the edge of the case like a cut out
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/roberts...y%203/base.JPG
So either way you can get the job done either by making the enclosure come off or by doing it this way its all down to personel preference.
And the end result is it cools ur pc wether it has a snap ring o ring case cut removable or not it works either way :)
Looks pretty sharp. Where did you get that idea?
Hi killermiller :) i thought of it when i thought of enclosure design i didnt like the circlip idea also i wanted something simple and a cheap evap design i could use without major cost.
But i suppose the main result were all after is to phase cool the pc.
Whatever way we do it
If it works why not :)
I braze a small 6 inch tube a little larger than the cap tube into the base purging with nitrogen then that tube stays in for purging it gets brazed in place then later when all the sections are done i braze the suction in place then swap the nitrogen line onto the suction line then cut down and insert the cap tube down to the bottom of the centre tube i started with and braze the cap tube in place, i didnt draw it in the diagram but the cap tube is inside a tube that runs through the centre and is sealed at each section.
I find this works perfectly and keeps the entire process clean hope this helps you :)
PS be sure to not let the cap tube touch the base in case there is any braze thats made it too the very bottom or u could end up blocking ur cap tube and ruining the whole process
a simple sandblast between layers stops oxidization
using my shotblast gun cheers
hey mate any updates on temps?
regards
yeah il post some pics of other stuff too but temps wise the units finished and holding -39 at 4.8 gig 1.76v
on my qx9770 not bad for a small ss the gas mix is the trick i found just the right amout of 407c and r290 gives me a greater load and lower temps at the load,
Ps i changed the enclosure for this one but its not my final design il post that probably tomorrow ive got a cool way that ive been doing enclosures nice too ive just been real busy few units too build and also just Mot,d my clio as ive sold it, so been snowed under with work
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/roberts0n/ebay/unit3.jpg
To bad your not in USA, we are lacking good phase change with interesting (down to earth) prices...
:up: great work btw. :up:
Thanks :)
Could you give us loaded results? :)
loaded on all four cores using hot cpu -18 -22 its only a small r134a compressor
:)
That's decent temperatures for that kind of compressor :)
What is its ref? I can't see it clearly on the pics (TL serie of course but I don't know if I see a 5 or sth else :p:)
congratulation with your project A/\/\/\C,
very well buit, but how thickness is you flex hose insulation ?
dont you have condensation issues ?
regards
i never have condensation issues well made sealed and when i run my own unit at home i run it from morning till night my qx9770 has been turned on at 4.8ghz since 9.30am yesterday at -40 and its now 03.58am thats 18 hours striaght phase cooled, ive just finished playing Bf2 but no if lagged correctly air tight condensation should never be a problem.
When i was working many off the airconditiong systems and blast chillers we installed were situated in shops office area,s we couldnt afford leaks of condensation as it ruins ceiling tiles and or clothing in a superstore so sealing and preventing condensation was something we had to get correct not good for company image if the cooler system your company has installed drips condensation all over important paperwork or food produce or consumables. :)
You should consider useing the fan after the condenser. I know it looks good to have it in front but it will perform better if it is behind it. Or better yet use 2, one in fron and one behind.