1st test 3.6 Ghz Qx6700 MIPS
This is the 1st test with the MIPS on the QX6700 3.6Ghz NB Vcore 1.70
http://img49.imageshack.us/img49/3218/mips36vt8.png
By neo_rtr at 2008-02-21
It landed at 33c for both SB NB and 44c for CPU
I did stopped it to take the picture reson the timer says 15secs only
Ambient 24c
Collective experience and thoughts
Collective experience and thoughts regarding the installation / modification of the Asus Maximus with After Market Freezers
First of all I would like to thank the 'Aftermarket Block Club' and Talonman who started the thread and ignite me to start me own modification.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=162085
His thread has significant information and is a “must read “for all of the Asus Maximus SE owners.
Also many other users that provided valuable information and where the first ones to remove the fusion block, build WC blocks and posted several pictures with greate value to my self and others.
So with out further due,
Both my personal opinion and the opinions of others is that the Asus Maximus Formula SE and its variations Maximus Formula, MAximus Extreme, Maximus Formula SE, a motherboard based on the X38 chip with the highest degree of bios versatility, Over clocking capability and flexibility.
Several reviews grant it as best buy, best performance etc.
In regards to the Aftermarket Block Club there are few things you need to know before you decide to “enhance” your board. (There are several opinions for sure on this but here is mine)…
First off, what ever you do with your board revokes the warranty so you do this on your own risk.
The Removal of the Fusion Block and the selection of the so called freezers.
Removing the Fusion Block is the greatest challenge and subject to debate as to what method is suitable (not better than the other). Two methods so far: Hot air and Cooling the block. The hair dryer or solder iron on the NB & SB block to warm up and loosed up the thermal past underneath has proven to work for many users. It has been said that: preferably to do this before your start your motherboard for the first time as the burn in time will make the thermal paste to “mature” and make the disassembly difficult. This is logical as the thermal paste hardness over time and bonds to the surface of the chip making it difficult to remove. From my own experience (after the removal of the Fusion Block), the thermal paste was hard and I had to scrape it off with a plastic tool to remove it; it was so hard that it broke off (pieces of it) during the process.
The second is to freeze the surface of the NB, SB. This will make the thermal paste to cool “and contract to some level “ and loose some of its elasticity, grip onto the metal surface. (Probably some one can give a more correct explanation, but I think, in principle iam correct saying the above) . Compresses Air can/spray will have a cooling effect on the surface and it produces low temps. Friedge has been proven as well.
In my case, having running the fusion block for 3 months before taking the decision to remove it, 1st try the warm method. I could not get it to move and as the SB is surrounded by chips it was very hard for me to do it. NB same. Then I try the compressed air can. I had to invert, upside down, the motherboard and spray inside the NB block, and on the SB (was covered by towel to prevent the spray). I did that for about 10 secs and several times.
Starting with the Southbridge, I placed a plastic piece (5cmx1cm, cut out of a credit card) by the side of the heat sink and with the tip of the screwdriver twist it gently. A loud brake noise was heard and the thermal paste was removed from the chip surface as one piece. (lost 5 years of my life as I got scared by the terrible noise).
Any way my SB heart sink came off with all its thermal paste attached to the heat sink, with very few pieces on the SB chip it self. Now remember that the Fusion Block has to come out as one piece meaning both the SB, NB and the mosfets. One more quick spray on the NB and repeated the procedure, yes with the same loud noise and 5 more years gone. The majority of the thermal paste was on the heatsink with some residence on the NB chip it self. There plenty of pics for you to see on the previous page. Removing the mosfets is easy. With a bent long noise plier, press the plastic pins and push them. They come out nicely.
The NB had few spots of thermal paste, where I used coffee filter paper ArticClean 1,2 with no luck. After about 1hours used aceton and the remainings where removed in a seconds. One more sweep with ArticClean 1,2 and I was ready.
This brings me to the point. IF it was posible to put some aceton between the chips and the heatsink it would make life much easier to remove them. Just need a way to get it there.
PS: I used Arctic Cooling MX-2 for the NB, SB, CPU during the installation.
Time for ther freezers aka Chipset Water Blocks. The ones from EK are popular. If you want something different as the ones from MIPS copper or Nickel then http://www.mips-computer.de/ is the place to goto.
My self as you have seen used the copper ones part nr. MCH415 (set of 4 pcs 1x MCH034, 1x MCH003, 2x MCH150).
The Nickel Blocks should have the following part nr's:
ASUS MAXIMUS Chipset Freezer Nickel MCH1034. (NB block)
ASUS Chipset Freezer Nickel MCH1003. (SB Block)
ASUS Maximus Mosfet Freezer Nickel MCH1150. (MOSFET block, you need 2pcs) "SET" with part nr MCH1415
I used the backplates from EK thought as MIPS did not had any to offer at the time of the build.
My experience pre-order, order, delivery, installation.
First off the MIPS website is in German. I don’t know German but it was not difficult to understand and with an English german lexicon I was ready to go. I emailed MIPS my questions and where very prompt to reply and help me with my inquire order etc. The order process was not difficult and once completed I received email with paypal details where I transfer the money. Received confirmation and within 3 days I received the goods from Germany to Sweden. Excellent! The water blocks arrived in a well protected box, each one within its own envelop. Nothing extra arrived. The idea is simple. Use the original backplate of the NB, use the thermal pads of the mosfets. Simple and it works 100%.
The quality of the blocks is impressive, German quality at its best, they are shiny, heavy and robust. I would prefer a backplate for the Southbridge, and I tried to make one my self with disappointing results. So I didn’t use it.
The way the SB water block fits the MB is good and rock solid with only 2 screws. In comparison to other blocks it seats lower to the VGA card and there is enough clearance for the tubing to pass over the VGA card. Picture is attached to page 2 of my work log.
If I put a rate: 9,5 out of 10 for the reason no back plates where available (at this time of the order) from the source.
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