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I havent had a chance to test it @ -19c(res) yet. but when it wasQuote:
Originally posted by AcEmAsTr
thats insanely cool!(pun)
whats the lowest temp u are possible to acheive?
@ -15c my temps were +10 idle +16 load. i just bumped the pump
up from 325gph to 535gph so that should help a little too. so far
the total cost is $85.:D
Run your window A/C on "Low Cool". This will dehumidify better.
redid the mix, now im running 1gal propolyne glycol 2gal alcohol. my temps(res) are now -22c.:banana:
"update" i left the chiller run with no load for 24hrs to see if any ice formed on the evap the no load res temp is now -24c (-11f) &
there is no ice what so ever on the evap:banana: :banana: . my
cpu temps @2724mhz w/1.95v vcore are now around 0c/+1 idle
load maxed @ +5c(3d2k1&2k3) +3 (sandra & pcmark). this is a very small unit (1/12hp)& it can only maintane these temps @ the loads i run(very heavy benching) for a matter of hours, but i knew this from the start. i built this with the idea of making it as cheeply
as possable & to gain knowledge & experience for my next chiller
which will use a 1/4 or 1/2hp compressor. to date the cost has been $100+ my labor. :D
Hey all. i got another unit for my chiller. it's window ac, it has a LG electronics compressor (QA082CA11B R22). i looked it up on LG's site but it's an older unit so its not listed the 084 model is 6000btu/hr so that should put it just under 6000. what temps do you think i should get out of this 1? I've been getting just under
-25c from my first attempt but the recovery isnt the best since it's
a 1/12 hp freezer. what i was thinking is there's enough room in my chiller barrel to leave the freezer evap & add the ac evap, this way i can run the freezer unit 24/7 to maintain a low temp & run both when im benching or gaming. with a little rearranging it should'nt take up any more space then it already does. what do you think? Thanks again guys you've been alot of help.:)
Doesn't the window A/C list the BTU's on the nameplate?
Yes it does. it says 5000btu/hr. but when i looked up the compressor @ LG's site they showed under their QA model that 075=75cc comp=5250btu/hr & 084=84cc comp= 6000btu/hr so i furgured its closer to 6000 then 5000.Quote:
Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
Doesn't the window A/C list the BTU's on the nameplate?
Well i had a little spair time tonight & decided to give it hell. i found out that even tho both evap's would fit in the chiller barrel it was hard to get both condenser's mounted with out breaking one of the cap tubes & since im not set up to recharge yet i went with only the new unit. after carefully bending the lines to go where i wanted them i fired her up, as i thought the temps started to drop alot faster then with the freezer. after 45min the no load temps were -18c, after 1.5hrs its now -30c. ill leave it running over night to see how low it will go but so far i think its turned out good. the recovery is alot faster then before. one question i have is about insulating the lines from the comp to the evap. for now just testing i left them uninsulated & they're frosted
up big time. when i insulated the lines on the freezer unit the temps went from -25c to -20c but after removing some of the insulation near the compressor the temps went back to -25c?
i know on prommie's they insulate all the way to the compressor
so why did the temps go up? thanks.
You need to remove some refrigerant.
Get a piercing schrader valve and put it on the compressor process tube. Let out a little, wait fifteen minutes or so, let out a little more, etc., until you get best temp under full load.
Hey Gary
Thanks for the reply. before going to bed the temp was -31c. this morning (4 hours later) it's -34c. the lines from comp to the barrel
& half way back on the cap tube have about 1 1/2" 2" of frost. do
you think bleeding it a bit will drop the temps anymore? or do you think that may be the max for this size compressor? my experience with AC is limited to automotive when i was a mech, but thats about 20yrs ago. i remember that as you charged the system if you went over the factory specs for psi the temps got a
little better then just a little more & the evaporator core would ice over. its been a long time & i need to bone up on my skills again. hey you wouldnt know anyone who writes books on Refrig's would you? haha, later.
On a cap tube system, as the evaporator temperature drops, less refrigerant flow is needed because the heat load has decreased. Therefore a system that has the right amount of refrigerant for A/C temps has too much refrigerant for freezer temps. If the bottom of your compressor gets cold at the lowest temperatures, the system is overcharged to the point where the compressor valves are endangered.
I think starting with a window A/C or dehumidifier chiller without breaking into the lines and losing the refrigerant is a very good way to learn phase change. The next logical step in the educational process is to get a piercing valve and a set of gauges, and learn to tweak the refrigerant charge for optimum performance. Then comes the cap tube change, evacuation and charging.
Keep in mind that psi is a means to an end. If you look up the pressures on a pressure/temperature chart for that refrigerant, you will find the saturation temperatures. Those are what is important, not the pressures.
I might be able to find a good book for you with a little research. :D
Hey Gary
im addressing this to you because youre the only one who ever replys. anyway i didnt pick up the piercing valve or gauges yet, i was sick last week, but yesterday i got out to my workshop & mounted the factory fan shroud & fan & insulated the lines. after an hour it was@ -31c it took a little while but it got down to -38.5c
:D but now i know for sure ill have to insulate the barrel, it was pretty cold in my shop & the barrel was sweating bad. i have some ceramic fiber from a heat treating fernus i built for a customer a few yrs ago ill use. ;)
Nice setup you have got there. :toast:
Any more pics?
We tend to think of the computer components as the heat load for the system, but in fact anything that is cold is viewed by the system as heat load, and the system has to work that much harder to carry that load. If if feels cold, or even cool, insulate it. That isn't cold getting out, it is heat getting in.
Frost is the enemy. Insulation is our friend.
Here's one sorry about the quality, ill try to bum a better cam from work. i finished insulating the lines & i cut the ceramic fiber. ill pick up some spray adhesive & aluminum tape tomorrow. it wont be finished for a while tho because i going to redo the insulation on the waterblocks & im replacing the WB on the videocard because it has a poly top, -25c was one thing but almost -40c is another.;)Quote:
Originally posted by isp
Nice setup you have got there. :toast:
Any more pics?
I agree big time, i learned that years ago when i use to dragrace a turbo Kaw, when the turbo is 2" from the fuel tank you learn alot about heat transfer. i would insulate the tank bottom & line to the carb & chill the fuel in a cooler till min's before the race.;)Quote:
Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
Insulation is our friend.
thats a fiberglass tank it only holds 1gal. GOD i miss that crap!
but this is alot safer.
Got any pics of the blocks insulated?
I got a original LWWR and maze 3 gpu blocks in the mail. 60 bucks too :D
Anyways, im so confused on how to insulate a block, what happens witht eh bottom?
Hey XX
Do a search on "insulation idea" its a thread i started the first time i did my waterblocks, i havent updated it in a while but basicly you want to install your hose & clamps(TIGHT!) once the insulation is on you wont be able to, cover the bottom, the first
time i taped cardboard to cover the face, do allyour lapping first.
get some wood dollrod that fits in the holes & cover them with wax, i used pva because i had it from when i used to fab body parts but anything that will keep the foam from sticking will work.
coat the face of the WB too.then put the block inside a cardboard box & spray insulation foam filling the box. after it drys cut it into a square then fit it to clear anything on the mobo or card ti may touch once its done cover the foam with either spray rubber undercoating or liquid electric tape, use alot! at first i didnt put enough. i have a better idea for the mounting bolts but too much to go thur now, check out the thread, anything else you need to know let me know. good luck.:thumbsup:
This wasnt enought! i went over it with more insulation tape, & another thing that is your friend is Dielectric grease "LOTS OF IT".
depending on how cold you get youll have to do the back of everything too, its alot of crap to go thru but once you got it right
its worth it. before i ripped everything apart again i was getting close to 2800mhz :D later.
Here it is with the ceramic fiber installed.
And here it is with a sheet of neoprene over the ceramic fiber.
next ill make a cover.
Hey guys. she hits -33c quick then takes a few hours to hit
max low but Here it is.:D no load.
Looking better all the time, Vlad. :D
Is the bottom of the compressor cold?
Wow vlad nice job there!! Looks nice too should be great for some nice clocks!! :D
luke warm, ill bring my lazer temp gun home from work mondayQuote:
Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
Looking better all the time, Vlad. :D
Is the bottom of the compressor cold?
& get a temp for you. right now i shut her down to see how good my insulation job on the barrel turned out. thanks gary.
Thanks DoGMaN. i got to 2724mhz with my first chiller @ -25c so this should help a bit. i recently picked up a used MK I and have been playing with it so if i get it dialed in the chiller will go back on the NB & VC only. it should be fun. i cant wait to see how your R502 mod works.good luck. between all the info out there on 404Quote:
Originally posted by DoGMaN
Wow vlad nice job there!! Looks nice too should be great for some nice clocks!! :D
502 & 507 ill decide what way i want to go. i've been looking at some better temp gauges for the prommie i dont trust the factory
one. thanks again.